mccldwll

Yes. A stationwagon. I've got a 20 year old Volvo 245 that's a lot more fun to drive, has a more comfortable driver's seat and handles a lot better than our '05 RX. Stationwagons (lower COG vehicles with good visibility, and lot's of cargo space) are coming back, but they're giving them different names. I should add that the old 3000 lb. 245 has more cargo space, a higher load capacity and a higher rooftop load capacity. And, since the rooftop is about 9" lower, can more safety and conveniently be loaded with a Yakima box, kayaks, skis, bikes, etc.. It also gets 25+ mpg on the road, has an engine good for 300K+ with standard maintainance, and a very strong transmission. I would buy a new 245 in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, the new V70/XC70 is not as much fun to drive or as bulletproof. The '07 Highlander looked promising, even with high COG, but it really wallowed on corners and I couldn't find any beefier sway bars.

Yes. A stationwagon. I've got a 20 year old Volvo 245 that's a lot more fun to drive, has a more comfortable driver's seat and handles a lot better than our '05 RX. Stationwagons (lower COG vehicles with good visibility, and lot's of cargo space) are coming back, but they're giving them different names.

Make sure to get a rear camera because back visibility ain't so hot. Also, a removeable, washable seat cover for the rear seat--unless you like cleaning ketchup, mustard, fries, ice cream, drinks, crackers, cheerios, puke and !Removed! off nice leather. BTW, we have a 330, and IMO it drives like a small mini-van--restyled for women who don't want a mini-van, but without much cargo room. It's the best designed CUV out there so you can't fault her taste. Pretty, but not too practical for a family. The industry is starting to realize that what people really want is what used to be called a stationwagon. Wait for the Toyota Venza (essentially the Camry wagon, looks like a squashed down RX) this fall, or get an '07 Volvo V70/XC70. Or wait for an Accord wagon, probably next year.

I recently did a 3 hour round trip and really felt it. I do think these are post minivan "soccer mom" cars, built for humans with wider hips, and much better padded butts than mine. That's the target demographic. If that center butt foam compresses, an inordinate amount of pressure is put on the upper thighs. I might try a 1" thick high grade foam piece just for the butt area. Update: Tried a small 1' x 1', 1" thick pillow, and it was too thick. I then tried a piece of exercise mat (roughly 11" x 14", 3/8" minicell foam, fabric on one side) and everything felt much better--weight spread much more evenly over all surfaces. The minicell is firm, and I may try a piece of 1/2" slightly softer foam pad. The bottom line (no pun intended) is that it doesn't take a lot of foam compression to change how the seat feels, or a lot of replacement to restore it. Also reinforces my belief that these seats really were designed with women in mind.

We've been paying more for grain for a while now, more fuel overall is used to produce ethanol, the energy yield per gallon is lower, it's entirely political (midwest states), the costs far outweigh the benefits, the "chickens came home to roost" much sooner than the administration hoped on this (wanted to stretch it out until after election) and everyone has recognized the stupidity of using food to produce fuel as we're now in a world food crisis PLUS there is a problem with using ethanol in tanks-- in cool, humid conditions (such as in underground tanks) it will form into gelatinous masses with crud in tank and can clog up socks and filters.

Thanks for help. One shop would paint in place, and two others (one of which is a Toyota Collision center which I thought would be more familiar with their own color matches) want to remove. The shops which want to remove are adding in a labor charge to open up door to detach any clips "which might exist" in addition to the tape. Nowhere can I find evidence that any clips exist. Is there any chance at all that anyone knows of that any clips might actually exist? Thanks again.

Obviously referrals from here the best, but if none, might want to look at cartalk website--have indy shop recommendations. Since it's really just a Toyota, and Toys are very popular with indies, should be some good recommendations.

Thanks. The problem probably is that pre-painted is a whiter crystal white, since apparently used 04-08. Any ideas on whether could be painted in place (probably more of a blending) as opposed to removal?

My '05 330 (crystal white 062) has a slight color mismatch between front and back door moldings from a past repair/painting on back seat door. Door paint match is good. Molding looks fine in some light, and terrible in other. I need to have it fixed but want to understand the situation before talking to shop. Are they attached with adhesive? Removable without ruining trim? If I replace/paint one or both moldings (to assure color match) do they come from Lexus with OEM factory paint, or must they be painted? If comes pre-painted, how good are the matches generally (especially on a 3 year old car). Since it is a discrete part with a tiny gap between molding and body, would it be a better choice overall (since wouldn't be opening a can of worms) for a shop to paint in place? I would never have door painted without removing trim, but since can probably slide something between door and molding perimeter so nothing gets on door, might it be as good or better overall to paint in place? TIA

Where/how do you determine it?

I recently did a 3 hour round trip and really felt it. I do think these are post minivan "soccer mom" cars, built for humans with wider hips, and much better padded butts than mine. That's the target demographic. If that center butt foam compresses, an inordinate amount of pressure is put on the upper thighs. I might try a 1" thick high grade foam piece just for the butt area.

Have you checked the on/off button inside the glove box compartment, on the left side. That button is used to disable the power read hatch if necessary. Hope that it helps, Right after I posted I remembered that. Problem solved. Sorry for not posting back.

I doub't you'll find a warranty issue/manufacturing defect unless there is something out of norm from day 1 constricting the drain channels predisposing it to this condition. It sounds like "organics" condition probably developed from windshield drain area channels clogging, possibly from small leaves/windshield crud, then area not drying quickly enough. Once contaminated, reactivated by moisture. I have zero idea how difficult it is to access the area to thoroughly clean/disinfect. Once accessed, IIR, wwest above discussed a treatment used on cooling fins. Similar products exist for post-remediation treatment in houses. Probably something for metal/plastic surfaces, which will be much easier to successfully clean than porous surfaces. Good luck.

But there is problem, downside, to coating the evaporator vanes. Almost any coating will result in undesireably reducing the heat transfer efficiency from the COLD refrigernat gas inside the evaporator to the airflow over the vanes of the evaporator. So maybe that is why the HVAC manufacturers are so reluctent to respond to these complaints. There is no good, simple, answer. Yep. Definitely decreased efficiency, though I've never determined specific %. But I was more than happy to trade the efficiency for better air quality.

It does begin to sound as if in your particular case you might have a small animal or bird that has died inside the fresh ducting somewhere. Remove the pollen filter and use an inspection mirror and flashlight to thoroughly examine the ductwork immediately above the filter. Do the same from the outside. It won't take an animal or bird, and they would create a full time decay smell. The fact that oder comes with rain/moisture definitely points to mold spores being reactivated--classic DSS. I disagree. Mold spore colonies need/REQUIRE a dark and moist, WET, environment with a consistent or often recurring ambient temperatrue (garage, parked, nightime) in the range of 65-75F in order to survive, breed, multiply. Historically with regards to automotive A/C systems that has been found to have been pretty much restricted to the evaporator surfaces and the surrounding plenum "tank" area. Additionally all system airflow, fresh or recirculate, flows through the pollen air filter so it is unlikely the problem is with the filter, of even downstream of it. Each spring I have the task of opening our furnace and removing the dead mice that our cat has brought in over the winter and allowed to escape down one of the air vents. I'm quite certain that were I to somehow "hydrate" one of those otherwise quite thoroughly dry mouse bodies the resulting odor would be nothing short of putrid. Constant moisture is not at all necessary. The spores simply go dormant and "revive" and thrive when appropriate conditions reoccur. Unfortunately, I've personally had to deal with mold spores in the following: 1) identical to this but not on an RX where the actuator for the fresh air flap was not working correctly; 2) in a home where a leaking valley resulted in water infiltrating a wall necessitating involvement of an environmental engineer and $$$ remediation; and 3) new variable speed high efficiency heat pump where "organics" that accumulate during cooling season from moisture which never fully dissipates from fins, as you mentioned above, dries and goes dormant between summer and winter. During heating season, when unit goes into defrost mode the moisture reactivates spores, resulting in offensive oder commonly known as "Dirty Sock Syndrome"--DSS. Once there, cleaning won't fix it beyond short term. The hvac industry has been trying for several years to escape any responsibility, but when homeowners push hard enough, will often receive a new epoxy coated indoor coil. I did. I have a copy of a Trane memo to dealers on the problem.

It does begin to sound as if in your particular case you might have a small animal or bird that has died inside the fresh ducting somewhere. Remove the pollen filter and use an inspection mirror and flashlight to thoroughly examine the ductwork immediately above the filter. Do the same from the outside. It won't take an animal or bird, and they would create a full time decay smell. The fact that oder comes with rain/moisture definitely points to mold spores being reactivated--classic DSS.

In the summer, outside humidity in many places far, far higher than lung output. Still, it's best to run in fresh setting, except for initial cooldown (or in tunnels).

The mold spores probably are located in the drain basin by the outside air intake. The mold is being reactivated with rain. The Frigi Fresh mentioned by someone, or similar product, may work. If not, possibly a more aggressive flush of area or even physically accessing the area for cleaning (not sure how--I'm too new to the RX to know how difficult that would be). The source of your mold spores probably is from vegetation partially clogging that exterior drain, never allowing it to fully drain/dry, AND by keeping the fresh air vent closed so doesn't dry.

Thanks for that information. So you're thinking that during days when it's raining the moisture is being taken into the car's AC piping etc growing and feeding mold!? I read about that EED device on the website and still don't know where it goes or what it does specifically. Also the price seems to be hidden. What wwest has referenced sounds like what is also known in home heat pump and AC systems as DSS--"dirty sock syndrome." It's nasty, and no fun. The mold spores go dormant, and "fragrance" reactivated with moisture. I had it on a Volvo a few years ago, and Toyota had a service to clean/disinfect. Since then, I have followed advice to run AC with fresh air position except when initially cooling down, and also to turn off AC a mile or two before destination (on Volvo, this related to giving system to drain to help prevent situation where mold and other crap in condensation collector clogs drain and overflows onto passengers feet).

I tried some aftermarket all weather floor mats of rubber/cut loop carpet, and rubber/pile smell was overwhelming. Removed mats but smell still lingering. Even replaced cabin filter. Ordered OEM from Sewell and just arrived. A bit of smell. Should I air for a certain length of time before installing, wash, or what. Any sensitive noses with experience on this out there? Thanks.

Crystal White (062/062 basecoat) needs to have what was described to me as "color buff and polish" to blend in old paint with new from part/paint work done a year ago. Also need to touch up a bunch of tiny paint chips and one @ 1/4" diameter. Have ordered set of Lexus paint. 1) Is the touchup paint something you need to wait months before waxing (i.e., how long to wait so it cures before wax)? 2) In past have gotten Langka at ipd, and can order it directly, but anyone have suggestions of other/best place to find it? Thanks.

mom--$18/tire was adjustment (discount) per tire, not the price.

How much tread depth difference do you consider OK?

How about continuing this tire replacement thread on on two fronts: --OP wanted to could go 20K past 5/32 point, while I conservatively like to replace at that point for rain/snow/etc.. I know that generally tires wear faster to 1/2 tread point, but at what depth do posters here replace? --At what point does the tread depth differential for post 2000 RXs become an issue requiring replacement of both tires on a single axle? Seems that 5/32 old/new difference results in @ 1" circumference differential. How closely is wheelspeed sensor really analyzing it, and what is it taking into account since also differences in tire circumference travel/speed whenever not going straight?

The policy stinks, and screaming is warranted. If manufacturer doesn't require it, no reason Costco can, unless spelled out beforehand. BUT, in the end you got an OK deal IMO since for past few years, for safety and handling reasons, I have considered 5/32 to be replacement point. From Consumer Reports: "Tires are considered bald when one or more of their grooves reaches 2/32 of an inch deep, compared with about 10/32 of an inch for new tires (tread wear is usually measured in 1/32-inch increments). Manufacturers have made bald tires easier to spot by placing a series of molded horizontal bars at the base of the grooves. The bars become flush with surrounding tread when wear reduces a groove's depth to 2/32 of an inch. That's also the point where tires will flunk a state safety inspection--and where tread must be worn for you to collect on a tire's tread-wear warranty. Unfortunately, 2/32 of an inch may be too late if you drive in rain or snow. Based on our tests of new and half-tread-depth tires, you may want to consider replacing the ones on your car or truck closer to the 5/32-inch groove depth that marks the half-tread point on many tires."