mccldwll

cfi- The thing is, with the DSS you need to eliminate the cause of the DS odor (in this case the mold caused by the wet evaporator) and the odor will self eliminate. Killing the mold is easy- it can't live without the moisture. Either kill it with something that actually KILLS the mold or use the blower in whatever way you choose to dry the evap. (just not rec.) and it will die on it's own. Problem solved. :) I've been forced to deal with mold in a car AC system, a high efficiency Trane heat pump (Trane replaced the the coil), and a house wall due to a poorly constructed valley. Unfortunately, depriving mold of moisture will not kill it but cause it to go dormant, only to thrive again when it someday reacquires moisture. And while in the dry/dormant phase, the spores are much more likely to spread through air movement. You will be much better off in the long run to eliminate it now, and thereafter operate your system in such a way that it does not reoccur.

While Lysol might work, Pure Air by Interdynamics is specifically made for auto air odors (I found an old bottle sitting around from when I had the problem). Got it at an auto parts store.

There are products out there to do it yourself, but since recently acquired it might be worth going to Toyota or Lexus to get it taken care of. Its also possible that the door which allows fresh air in is stuck in recirc position and created the original problem. BTW, the condition is known as "dirty sock syndrome" (DSS), and is a big problem with modern heat pump systems. Google it. I had the problem years ago on another vehicle and, after remediation, was told not only to run it mostlyt with outside air but to shut off ac completely and run the fan at higher speed several minutes before reaching destination.

cfiiman- Lenore makes an excellent point- can't imagine the synthetic oil being that powerful (that stuff is hard!) but it's worth a try. Newtoncd also makes a good point about the Auto-RX. From everything I've read about it, it does do wonders but I think I would probably try Lenore's sugg. 1st. because it's so simple. After Lenore's post I looked up the Euro Castro. Found this (no idea to what extent true, but appears to address the sludge/varnish issue): "Mobil 1 uses a 100% completely synthetic PAO (Poly Alpha Olephin) Group-V base stock. Mobil invented this technology back in the fifties, and they have always used the 'true' synthetic formula. Castrol 'Syntec', as originally sold in America back in the late eighties/early nineties, was NOT a true synthetic, even though it was advertised as such. The Castrol product used a group-III/IV base stock which is derived from natural petroleum/crude oil sources. The lawsuit brought by Mobil against Castrol resulted in the decision that Castrol was indeed allowed to call thier product 'full synthetic' based on the fact that Castrol claimed it's base stocks recieved further refining processes, at the molecular level, than did 'normal' conventional base stocks. This very, very refined base stock very closely approched the performance of a full PAO synthetic, so the US 'guv' decided that (paraphrasing here)" If it does the same thing, whats the difference"?, and allowed Castrol to call it synthetic. The European government does not allow Castrol to sell this product as synthetic there...it carries a different name. In ExxonMobil in-house tests, the Castrol product is very close to the Mobil 1 product in all areas except: 1)Phosphorous and Sulfer content, which are the main contributors to sludge formation. It comes from the crude oil, and is extremely difficult to remove completely. Mobil 1 has ZERO of these components, making it almost 100% resistant to sludge formation. 2)Mineral-oil is very susceptibale to high-temperature oxidation, creating...sludge and varnish. It also reatins heat and reduces lubricity. Mobil's PAO technology is almost 100% resistant to high-temperature oxidation. Once again, no sludge formation...with better gas mileage to boot! 3) Mobil 1 uses less additives overall (by percentage), meaning more actual oil 'in the mix', creating a cooler running engine, and producing better gas mileage."

Would you guys characterize the noise as a screech? My wife's 01 RX300 makes a very intermittent screech (when she tries to vocally copy the noise its more of a screech or loud squeal) it does it intermittenly when she starts it up after work out in the parking lot. It does it so rarely that I've never heard it. Does it seem like she has the same problem? Screech sounds much more like loose belt, especially at start up before tightening. I've posted a couple of times before about ALLDATADIY, an online service giving access to TSBs, parts and service prices, diagrams, general info, and troubleshooting for specific vehicles. I've used it for a few years now for 240 Volvos and found it to be very worthwhile, even though I don't do much of the work myself. I added the RX330, but have not used it much for it so can't say how good it is. If nothing else, I can sound like I have a clue when talking to a service manager. I have no connection with it at all.

I subscribe to ALLDATADIY, and checked for warranty parts and labor for a rear main seal (on '05 RX330). Nothing given, but standard labor was 12.5 hours, and part was $23. Warranty time often around 80% of standard, which would put it at 10 hours.

'05 RX330 When initially start from cold, runs at about 1600 rpms for first minute, then drops to around 900-1000. Is staying so high that long normal to get up to operating temp? Thanks.

Not that I can recall.

Found this (but same brand as ebay, not Lexus): http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?Ntt=Mud%...0984+4294966995 Also found (as I'm sure you did) $88 for full set of four Lexus flaps: http://64.233.169.104/search?q=cache:4Pp8S...;cd=3&gl=us

Can't help but have question. I don't have them and I see zero on all the RXs around here, but it really seems like a no-brainer to have these on--the area behind the front wheels is always a mess and it seems lucky the paint isn't all chipped. Do you have them on rear wheels also? Easy to install? I would think they would make truck look sportier/more functional. Yes? Thanks.

It's just a residue, and it will come off. If you can't get it off yourself, stop by a detail shop. I know armorall has its proponents, but I was advised years ago never to use it, and now would not put it on anything. The silicone is just not that great. Try 303 Protectant. Google it. Available in good marine products stores, diving shops (used on gaskets and other rubber goods), good river running/rafting stores (such as NRS). It's what the pros in those fields use. No silicone, and great UV protection. I also use it on exterior trim and tires to protect/restore, without giving it that glossy used car lot look. The stuff really is the greatest thing since sliced bread (and I have absolutely no connection with the product).

I know I should keep my mouth shut, but.... cfiiman's car buying insecurities and persistent expectation that someone on an Internet board can tell him what to pay for a car is moving from the sublime to the ridiculous. LexKid360's recommendation to perpetrate insurance fraud is ridiculous and has no place on this board. Hmmmmm. I assumed the insurance fraud suggestion was tongue in cheek response to trolling since the questions had gotten so ridiculous. "Are we there yet?"

Thanks for repliesDrove home after dark and instruments stayed bright. Problem originally spotted around 5:00 on dreary rainy day. Lights on "auto." Wondering if the lights could have been jumping between two settings?

'05 RX330 Just noticed the instrument panel lights dim, then get bright 20 seconds later, then dim again a bit later. Stopped with engine running while bright and stayed same for next minute or two until I shut off. AC was on, but I didn't hear compressor kicking on/of. Raining, and wipers were working intermittently, but I didn't notice any correlation. Had a possible battery issue last month (went dead in 30 day non use period). Any ideas? Thanks.

See posts 2 through 13 above. Unless you know everything there is to know about an intended purchase (carfax, all service records, body shop inspection, indy mechanic inspection, and even driving habits of former owners) any used car, but especially a luxury car with over 100K, is a crapshoot. And never, never even consider buying any used car without a thorough inspection by an independent mechanic very familiar with that particular model. Further, even if major mechanical items never give you a single problem, the minor ones will fail and are $$$$. Are you prepared for that? And avoid used car dealers buying at auction. The best go privately or even locally through dealer network. I have an '05 w/ 75K, perfect shape, all records, knew former owner, no problems, but am getting out of it simply because I don't trust it long term--tranny, HID beams, motorized everything. (I also have a '93 245 Volvo, 220K miles, original tranny, engine never opened, which I took on a 5K trip this summer because I considered it more reliable/easier to deal with if anything went wrong). All the whistles and bells are nice when working, but a total $$$ PITA when not. JMO

I had the fabric and got tired of the dirt. Ordered black (not shiny) rubber Lexus mats from Sewell Lexus (around $100 for 4). I like the look much better.

Just in case you don't read the user manual thoroughly... I just replaced the battery on my 2005 RX330 and found that several things were no longer "set". Memory positions for seat. Control of "other" windows from driver's seat. Sun roof. All are easily reset, but are a surprise if you don't know to do it. UPDATE: Battery recovered, and shop thought it was good. Curiously, the labeled 600 CCA Duralast battery (made by Johnson Controls) was only 500 CCA. Shop thought that rather than being simply weakened, good chance that only 500 CCA from day 1. Said had seen identical thing from Duralast many times in past. Rear hatch wouldn't open by switch, key or manual. I locked/unlocked all doors and hatch back to normal. I'll read OM about resetting sunroof and other windows, but any quick tips?

The only way to know is to PROPERLY charge it and load test it. How old is the battery? I have ruined more than 1 battery by accidently allowing a small drain for a period of time. Doesn't have to be much of a drain but 2 weeks, 24 hrs. a day will do it. The sad part is if the battery has any age at all a full discharge is often enough to kill the battery so that it can not successfully be brought back. To jump start a car and charge it with the alt. is not an adequate way to charge it. A lot of people think because they SEEM to have gotten away with it that is OK. Not so. Charge it with a slow charger (I personally use a "Smart charger" which does a good job- it truly has a pretty good brain in managing the charge). Then have it load tested and you'll have your answer. Good Luck! Thanks. Battery code is H6NK, which IIRC stands for 8th month of 2006. Duralast 600 CCA. I assume from your response that all the little lights, monitors etc. on the RX must be enough to drain a battery in a month. Unreal. Does the "Smart Charger" attach to battery on car, or is it necessary to remove from car? If remove, are there any precautions other than shutting off radio? I've been dealing with a top notch, honest, small battery shop for 15 years (never will sell me something if not needed), minimal charges for things like trickle charges. I could jump start again and drive it in for evaluation/trickle, or remove and just take it in. Alternative would be to buy a charger, but if battery shot...... The interesting thing is that starts or doesn't, and did start momentarily after driving. Did have enough juice to light up instrumentation (after driving) even when wouldn't start--a threshhold power requirement for starting, which if not met, wouldn't even attempt it. Maybe for safety of the electronics. Is this the case? Thanks again for tip on necessity of trickle charging. mccldwll- No, in my opinion, if you don't have anything added in the way of electrical or electronics, if the battery is in good shape, it shouldn't go dead in a month. So many batteries these days are junk that it is hard to recommend a GOOD battery. Though the battery is only 2 years old, a lot of them are already getting weak by then. You just don't know it when you drive it every day. It doesn't take a lot of amperage to start a car that is in good shape- then it runs on the alternator. The battery is pretty much just for starting. When run every day you won't realize it is getting very weak, but setting a few days, much less a month will reveal the truly weak battery. If it's only 2 years old, is there a chance it is still under a full replacement warrantee? A lot of batteries now have a 3 year free replacement warrantee before they start pro-ration period. Actually, the "smart charger" I spoke of is a really great charger- I bought it at Sam's Club for about $50. ( normally about $90.- $100. elsewhere) It senses the battery as it charges and regulates the charge (even shutting down very briefly if needed), so that there is never any overcharging or overheating as is sometimes the case with a standard charger. It is well named because it totally regulates the charge so that you can put the charger on and walk away and forget it without doing a trickle or any other special preparation or monitering. Yes, you can simply put the charger on in the car- no need to remove the battery. If you're not comfortable with that, simply remove the neg. (ground) cable while charging. If you have no other need for the charger, I wouldn't recommend one just for this case. Your battery needs to be charged and then load tested by someone that KNOWS what they're doing- sounds like that shop should fit the bill. My guess is the battery is bad. A battery in fairly good condition can be rendered junk when fully discharged. I have ruined more then 1 battery by accidently allowing a small drain for a couple of weeks when on vacation. A near new battery may be able to take it but a battery 2 or 3 years old will be pushed over the edge by it. Once charged, the battery will need to be load tested to tell it's true condition. Electronics are very fickle in current cars but my guess is the battery has bought itself the big dirt nap-(the permanent one-LOL). Good Luck! Thanks again. Battery is in shop overnight. They'll load test it this a.m.. I'll replace if at all questionable. Life's too short. And I'll buy a Smart Charger to have around next time I'm at Sam's. That Duralast (Autozone) battery has a 2 year warranty. I bought RX used in '07 so no help there. Person I bought from has an RX300. My guess is that he swapped the original 330 battery to his 300. Otherwise wouldn't battery have been covered under lexus warranty, so car would either have an original Lexus or replacement Lexus battery (or does Lexus use Duralast branded)? Re: drain, no glove box or other compartment left open that I know of. Is there anything else active full time , or on standby, with enough draw to drain over extended period? If not, seems like might be a warning to change out a weakening battery anyway. BTW, I left town for a 4000 mile roundtrip in my 16 year old Volvo 245 (holds much more stuff and weight, and more dependable/diagnosable if any trouble). Replaced an 8 year old battery before trip simply as a precaution (no trouble). Returned and my 20 year old Volvo with a 5 year old battery started immediately.

The only way to know is to PROPERLY charge it and load test it. How old is the battery? I have ruined more than 1 battery by accidently allowing a small drain for a period of time. Doesn't have to be much of a drain but 2 weeks, 24 hrs. a day will do it. The sad part is if the battery has any age at all a full discharge is often enough to kill the battery so that it can not successfully be brought back. To jump start a car and charge it with the alt. is not an adequate way to charge it. A lot of people think because they SEEM to have gotten away with it that is OK. Not so. Charge it with a slow charger (I personally use a "Smart charger" which does a good job- it truly has a pretty good brain in managing the charge). Then have it load tested and you'll have your answer. Good Luck! Thanks. Battery code is H6NK, which IIRC stands for 8th month of 2006. Duralast 600 CCA. I assume from your response that all the little lights, monitors etc. on the RX must be enough to drain a battery in a month. Unreal. Does the "Smart Charger" attach to battery on car, or is it necessary to remove from car? If remove, are there any precautions other than shutting off radio? I've been dealing with a top notch, honest, small battery shop for 15 years (never will sell me something if not needed), minimal charges for things like trickle charges. I could jump start again and drive it in for evaluation/trickle, or remove and just take it in. Alternative would be to buy a charger, but if battery shot...... The interesting thing is that starts or doesn't, and did start momentarily after driving. Did have enough juice to light up instrumentation (after driving) even when wouldn't start--a threshhold power requirement for starting, which if not met, wouldn't even attempt it. Maybe for safety of the electronics. Is this the case? Thanks again for tip on necessity of trickle charging.

Was away for a month and when returned battery was dead. Wouldn't turn over at all. A few warning lights came on. Jump started it (properly) and drove it for 20 minutes. Ran perfectly. Got home. Shut off and tried it again. It started, then died immediately. Then nothing. I've never had a battery not recover after that much driving. Was it simply so totally drained by all the silly little lights that it needs a pro trickle charge to restore, or is it simply a POS battery which is shot? Thanks.

I've been fueling my '01 AWD RX300 with nothing but regular from the very beginning, purchased new and now with ~70,000 miles No adverse affects. wwest knows far more about this than I do, but I do have a question/concern about running octane too much lower than recommended. Yes, the knock sensors (more than one, I believe someone said, I don't really know) do adjust engine timing to handle it, but I've heard about some people experiencing premature failure of these sensors, and they are pricey. I have no idea to what extent there may or may not be a causal connection, but it would make sense that the more that's demanded of a sensor, the faster the wear. And for Lexus it's a win/win--set engine for higher octane, advertise higher horsepower. recommend higher octane, sell you a new part/service if you don't adhere to advice. And if the sensor doesn't take care of it, the pinging may have longer term consequences. Not saying use premium, but might want to use 89. 2-3% cost increase might be worth it. Again, I don't know the answer, but I do hedge my bets.

Try Sewell Lexus. Not sure about direct access to exploded diagrams, but they emailed me one to try to determine which part I needed.

But what about the stigma your children will have to endure when they're seen arriving in a 20 year old Volvo?? :D Totally kidding there, my wife has a Passat wagon and it is by far more utilitarian than our RX (a fact she never misses an opportunity to point out), not to mention the Passat gets about 33 on the hwy while the RX struggles to get 23 these days. Too late for that. I've been driving bricks for over 25 years and my 25 yr old son now drives a 245. Your wife has good taste. I like the size/looks of the Passat. I've never gotten over 27 mpg, but the only time I keep track is fully loaded, w/ roof rack, at 70 mph on trips.

You have to put IPD HD sway bars on the bricks, or they feel like boats. And they could use a few more horses (although fully loaded with boats and bikes I could pass cars on CO mountain passes). I really do like the Mercedes wagons, but the reliability factor is too low (though not nearly as bad as the CUV). I'm not a big fan of the ride height on the crossovers, and I find the visibility very lacking, but the creature comforts are nice. Still, it feels like a small, nicely sculpted mini-van. Side by side, the RX is much bigger than the Volvo, but we're about to head off for a week at the beach, and I'll have to take the old Volvo because the RX can't hold enough--boats, bikes, gear--roof rack included. A utility trailer sounds like a good solution for many, but it wouldn't work well for us.

IMHO, if the water pump and seals had already gone 90K, I would automatically replace. They're not going to make it another 90K, and it's cheaper and better to stay ahead of any problems rather than play catch up..