pauljcl

To whomever it may interest -- we will be leaving our RX in MI for quite a few weeks/months on end while we are in FL (our main home), and, even though I changed the battery (Pepboys/Eveready) about a year ago, I felt that some form of regular supply to keep it charged was necessary during our absences. I found a Black & Decker BM2B mini-maintenance charger ($18 at homedepot.com) that I ordered and will leave it connected. It has two or three states of charge, and, more specifically, should avoid the 'boiling/disappearing acid' problem of constant trickle chargers (solar or other).

By George! I was very wrong. Apologies to all. I DO have a little black sleeve, which was not quite centered. I centered it, and - lo and behold! - the glove box closed easier (or so it seemed). So I too some marine glue, slipped the sleeve all the way to the right, and put a mini-drop on the left side, then the reverse, centered the sleeve (the object being to glue the sleeve to its ideal position), and ... I will know tomorrow how all goes. I expect long-term success! Thanks to all - and again, I eat my previous reply and words....

I don't seem to have any 'little black sleeve'... and I just tightened all attaching screws, tried to close - if it was 'off', checked positions and then I bent (with pliers) the striker(?) (the piece that is not on the lid) until all fit nicely. That was when I got the car 5 1/2 years ago, CPO, and it has worked since. From time to time, rarely, do we need to 'slam' it shut. However the closing motion must be firm.

Just changed today the 'crap' (Lexus OEM) Goodyear Integrity's on my '99 RX300 with the new BF Goodrich Long Trail T/A Tour. It is 'new' because they changed the tread design in Spring 2008 to make it quieter, smoother and less 'knobby'. Just a few miles drive evidenced - quieter/smoother ride and much improved 'feel' of the car as being more 'together' on the road. Road feel was not there, really [but I think that 'road feel' is an oxymoron for the '99RX300 (which I otherwise much enjoy)], and the tire overall seemed remarkably agreable. Its treadwear rating of 580 should give it a reasonable life. The reviews at some tire stores (e.g. Tire Rack) seemed to be very positive for the longevity and the quietness, but not so for the tread design (not good in wet or snow after 10K miles). As I indicated above, the tread design has recently been changed. We will be driving from FL to MI next week, and I should get better feedback after then. Will post it.

My $.02 worth. I had taken my RX300 to Lexus to be serviced (60K miles) and they included - they said - change of radiator fluid. Well, now at 68K miles, I notice the fluid looks 'greenish-grey' and only comes to 'minimum' at the overfill tank when hot. A Lexus 'diagnostic specialist' sees it, suggests a little more fluid, comments that it was 'green' fluid that was in the radiator - not the Toyota long life (red). He kindly offers to fill up the water overfill tank a little, adds Toyota red fluid, tells me when I ask him if it is a problem mixing them "Not at all, but you may not like the resulting colour". I asked whether one or the other was best, and the reply was "Not". So, I would not worry about the colour of your radiator fluids. Enjoy life and your car.

1999 RX300 68K miles Basically, only city driving, normal pace. Pre-ethanol 16.2 mpg, post-ethanol 15.9 mpg.

There had been several posts a few months ago concerning this issue. It seemed that users liked a product called - if I recall correctly - "CrystalView" that was (inexpensively) available at Walmart. You might want to search the forum for that word(?). Good luck pauljcl

Yes, I agree - I have a '99 AWD RX300, and the pachydermic turning radius is probably the most annoying defect of the car. I also prefer the earlier RXs to the later RXs, and I am waiting for the new (2010?) RX or the rumoured smaller Lexus SUV to appear, to decide whether to stay with Lexus or to go elsewhere.

If you remove the bulb, you have an access to the inside iof the headlight. Some people have drilled a small hole at the bottom, and the water will escape. If you apply a hair-dryer pushing sir through the hole where the bulb was, the condensation etc.. will dry out quite well. You should remedy this asap before any other damage is done. However, if your seals are not sealing correctly, the problem will recur, and either you seal around the headlamp as well as you can or you will have to change it. There was a thread on this somewhere on this Website. Re: The 'clearing' of the outside plastic, several people recommended a product called 'Crystalview' (if I remember correctly - check the thread in this Website) available at Walmart. Good luck pauljcl

Thank you, Zach. We'll cross fingers our transmission will last. Good luck with yours! pauljcl

In my '99Rx300, not all the fuse locations are filled. You could check the User's Manual for the ID of each fuse, and thus verify whether the set you have is complete or not. Good luck! pauljcl

Thanks much for your opinion. I think I will have the transmission oil monitored every oil change (5,000 miles), and see what happens. I am waiting for the 'newer' breed of cars to appear - smaller/ more FE SUVs (hybrid or electric or hydrogen of not) and will then change vehicle... Are there any 'driving' signs tha the transmission is beginning to 'go' that I should be aware of? Tks. again! pauljcl Your 99-00 RX transaxle will be under the most duress under the 3 conditions spelled out in the TSB issued in the summer of 2003 for the 2003 Camry. The problem occurs anytime the transaxle has just previously upshifted and then for some reason you decide you want to accelerate. The transaxle must then quickly downshift into the proper gear ratio for acceleration, possibly even before the previously "commanded" upshift has completed. Due to an internal design change, abolition of the accumulator, the RX transaxle's gear type ATF pump "ALONE" (absent the accumulator "backup") CANNOT supply enough fluid pressure/flow, to support two gear changes in quick succession, especially if a FULL throttle lift resulting in the engine RPM dropping to idle, was the cause for the initial upshift. A modification(***1) that might work would be to use the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor, signal to detect a QUICK, or SUBSTANTIAL throttle lift and then use a relay to energize the brake light circuit. The brake circuit would/should remain energized until pressure is re-applied to the gas pedal. Provide the driver with a manual over-ride switch to disable this function if the roadbed traction is questionable. That would make it less likely, possibly a LOT less likely, that the transaxle would upshift, inadvertently upshift, when you lift the gas pedal. Absent the brake light signal the engine/transaxle ECU will ALWAYS(***2) assume that when you release foot pressure on the gas pedal your intent is to enter cruise "mode", upshift into a gear ratio more appropriate for the roadspeed/FE. With the brake light circuit energized your intent to "coastdown" to a lower speed is made most obvious. The problem with the 99-00 RX series was overcome in the 01-03 RX series via increasing the base volume of the ATF pump. While that appeared to have alleviated the transaxle failures caused by the earlier 00-99 design change the increased pump volume seemingly resulted in the ATF being overheated resulting in the need for an ATF drain and refill every 15,000 miles vs NEVER. As everyone now knows the solution of the RX330 and 350 series has been to use DBW to prevent the engine from responding to the new gas pedal position until the "e.l..o...n....g.....a.......t........e..........d" downshift sequence can complete. ***1: Not a "West" original idea, simply a RIP-OFF, different implementation, "RETROFIT", of the newly adopted firmware method currently going through trials in certain '08 ('09..??) Toyoya and Lexus FWD and F/AWD models. ***2: Just as downshifting ANY FWD or F/AWD vehicle to attain a not insignificant level of engine compression braking on a questionable, possibly slippery, roadbed surface can be HAZARDOUS, so too would be leaving one of these automatic transaxle equipped vehicles in a "downshifted" mode upon throttle lift after a period of acceleration can potentually be HAZARDOUS. The 'duress' situations seem to be the ones where you feel that the transmission has 'got it wrong'. In fact, the 'upshift' on relaxing the gas pedal, followed by re-acceleration, leads to jerky shifts and 'mismatched' revs and a general feeling of confusion for the transmission. After an initial (disappointed) period of discovery of this problem - we took the car back to Lexus to ask whether there was a problem (also re: the 'no o/d' when cold and the very slight 'shudder' on acceleration) and were told that all was normal ("They all do that") - we drive the car very gently, even when going fast or quickly from one point to the other. As a matter of some interest, there are a few transmissions where the results are unhappy in certain situations - BMW M3 (older series) when you accelerate max. first gear then, immediately after the shift to second, let go the gas to let the car 'coast... you get multi-bucking even as you touch no foot pedal. The 330C I have is slow and uncomfortable in an downshift/upshift situation... takes forever. So, like one does with older friends, we accommodate their foibles and don't pressure them... Like old friends, we hope they will live long... Thank you for the detailed posting! pauljcl

Thanks much for your opinion. I think I will have the transmission oil monitored every oil change (5,000 miles), and see what happens. I am waiting for the 'newer' breed of cars to appear - smaller/ more FE SUVs (hybrid or electric or hydrogen of not) and will then change vehicle... Are there any 'driving' signs tha the transmission is beginning to 'go' that I should be aware of? Tks. again! pauljcl

I too have a '99 RX300 AWD and run it on regular gas. It does not 'ping' except if under heavy load, where it may make the odd 'ping' very slightly. I have 66K miles, and I would expect that, like in cars of old, as carbon deposits accumulate in the cylinders, the effective compression ratio increases and the chance of 'ping' increases. If you have a lot of miles on your RX, you may need to move to intermediate octane gas. The knock sensor prevents 'ping' at the expense of performance and FE, but, depending on your sensitivity, you may still hear some very slight 'ping' or not. pauljcl

I don't know if this is the place to ask the question, but the initial heading indicated that it was related to RX300 transmission problems... I have a '99 RX300, AWD, 66.5 K miles. We drive only about 4-5K miles per year on it. Well maintained by Lexus: we got it 20K miles ago, five years ago, and the 60,000 miles maintenance (on which I got 'hosed' by the Lexus dealer) included a transmission oil change. Question is: given all I have read on this Forum, should I sell the RX within a year or so (70K miles and thus hopefully avoid transmission problems), or not? Another way of putting it: does anyone know what % of '99 RX300s AWD see transmission problems at 75-80K miles? Or is the % real small (but, understandably, vocal about the failure)? Many thanks for those who venture an opinion in reply! pauljcl

Not starting again, but had you opened a TOYO filter? A china-mart filter is the same. I have had good UOA's with Fram on my bike. In fact, they are fine in my book for <7,500 drains. I am using a EaO now and will compare to the last 14 years UOA on it. In FL, I would run something thinner since 0w-20 works just fine in the Lonestar state for me. Wake up at 4 am and it is 80 to 85...try that.... Usually, the warmer the environment, the higher the 'w' (weight) of the oil than should be used (?). The lower number is the flow cold and the higher number the resistance to heat. I've wondered if, in Florida, where I am, I should not use 10W40 instead of the 5W30 in my 66K mile RX300. Dealer says 5W30 is fine.

I use Mobil 1 5-30W. Seems to work fine. I change it every 5K miles. My toyota dealer suggesting Synthetic? Is it okay? Mobil 1 is full synthetic. Many tests imply that it has more 'resistance' to use/sheer than most. I 'felt' the difference (for the better) when I switched to it, but cannot - and did not try to - quantify it. Filter used is Lexus or Mobil 1. I'm happy with the result.

I use Mobil 1 5-30W. Seems to work fine. I change it every 5K miles.

I agree 100% with the above. I have a '99 RX300 AWD 66K miles, and we get - (90% city driving) 15.9 mpg indicated. We often run the A/C. We use Mobil 1 5-30W, have done the full 60K maintenance (but got suckered by the dealer who swore that the timing belt change was necessary at 60K miles in hotter climes), and run the tires at 33-34lbs. Another factor may be the use of ethanol, which is slowly being mandated across the country. Ethanol gives some 30% lower energy=>mileage, which corresponds (at 10% ethanol content) to a 3% decline in mileage, i.e. from 16mpg to 15.6mpg approx. On the highway, we travel at 70mph or slightly more usually (in line with traffic here in Miami), but in the city we accelerate slowly and are parsimonious in our braking.

Hi Roger! I don't remember details, but I usually fill the tank (+/-) and don't let it go below 1/2 or 3/8 at worst (good habit in FL after hurricane summers - in case one needs to evacuate, no time to wait to fill tanks and also sometimes gas stations can't serve gas). I do remember it took about ten 'fills' (i.e. to when the nozzle 'stopped') and then drains down to about 1/2 indicated. I once made the mistake of again 'super-filling' the tank and the gauge again registered wrongly - but for less of a time than previously. Now, I just go to 'nozzle-stop' then may add no more than a gallon. It probably would make sense to change the gauge/sensor, but I don't see why I need to spend the $ when I've found a way that suits... Since you are keeping track of your consumption and re-fills, why don't you just wait a couple of weeks and see what happens, being careful not to overfill in the meantime? Again: good luck! pauljcl Oops! sorry! didn't answer your question! My gauge would (at initial time of problem) show about 3/4 full when nozzle 'stopped', and I assumed that it was showing 1/4 low (i.e. less than actually in tank) all the way to refill at 3/8 indicated. The assumption was +/- correct given the gallons needed to refill. Then, little by little, the gauge 'moved up' on subsequenet re-fills, and after about five fills was a bit less than an 1/8 'off' (i.e indicated low).

Hi Roger! I don't remember details, but I usually fill the tank (+/-) and don't let it go below 1/2 or 3/8 at worst (good habit in FL after hurricane summers - in case one needs to evacuate, no time to wait to fill tanks and also sometimes gas stations can't serve gas). I do remember it took about ten 'fills' (i.e. to when the nozzle 'stopped') and then drains down to about 1/2 indicated. I once made the mistake of again 'super-filling' the tank and the gauge again registered wrongly - but for less of a time than previously. Now, I just go to 'nozzle-stop' then may add no more than a gallon. It probably would make sense to change the gauge/sensor, but I don't see why I need to spend the $ when I've found a way that suits... Since you are keeping track of your consumption and re-fills, why don't you just wait a couple of weeks and see what happens, being careful not to overfill in the meantime? Again: good luck! pauljcl

No, But you will lose all of your previous seat/radio etc... settings, Nothing to worry about. I had my battery replaced at 'Pep Boys'. No code was needed, and no settings were lost except for the mileage/average speed etc... computer memory.

I have a '99 RX300, AWD. At +/-62,000 m., the front was making noise over bumps and potholes. The front struts were replaced. Shortly after, the noise(s) returned. After much goodwill and testing over several weeks, the following were investigated: 1. the windshield wiper 'pan' which is not always well 'set' and it is said it can distort/bong in certain stress (bump) situations. Did not solve the problem. 2. Then the Lexus technician did something he called 'pre-tensioning' the front struts (which appears to be basically setting them so there is less 'play when extended). After a couple of tries, the noise disappeared. This is a cheap fix, but it worked. Worth a try, either 1. or 2. or both. Good luck! pauljcl.

I don't know if this helps, but, nearly twenty years ago, I had the same problem with a Merc-B. Took the car to the dealer under warranty, and they 'dried' the headlight (basically by blowing - pressure - air through the hole which holds the bulb, after removing the bulb and bulbholder/socket, of course), then 'resealed' the headlight. I could not believe they didn't change it, but the moisture was not too 'liquid' too long, and hadn't damaged the headlight. The repair 'held' until I sold the car. Presumably, it is still holding if the car is still running. Point of this is that - if there has not been too much moisture so that the headlight or the bulbholder/socket are not corroded - 1. yes, you can 'dry' up the moisture with pressurized air, and 2. you must make sure, after drying the headlight with pressurized air, that it is correctly sealed. Otherwise the problem will recur. Good luck - pauljcl