pauljcl

I have a '99 RX300 AWD. I recently drove it to - and left it in - Michigan. Very cold weather (17-20F) and the transmission will take about two/three minutes of driving before shifting to third, then another while (until the motor temp. gauge shows above "C", very near the first mark) until it shifts into overdrive. IMO, bad design of the transmission. Practically, as you don't really want to 'race' a cold motor above 3000 RPM, it restricts your speed for the first five minutes, couple of miles, or so.

I could not agree more. On our '99RX300, we have had the front strut mounts replaced, the rear engine seal replaced, and are currently beginning to experience some 'exhaust' noise when starting cold, which I cross my fingers and hope is only an exhaust manifold gasket giving up. The early RX gaskets 'dry out' .

Plus the 'rear engine seal' problem. Plus the cracked exhaust manifold risk.

code58: I agree with you on the club. I have always heard it was easily defeated. Some thevies have even resorted to just cutting a small piece out of the steering wheel to remove. The fuel pump switch sounds like a really good idea. I don't know if it is really necessary with the engine imobilizer in the RX, unless you run into a situation like this where someone has the key. I am sure someone somewhere has stolen an RX but I have never heard of one being stolen without having the key. gal: The more I think about your situation it sounds like kids or really low level thief. But it doesn't take much for someone like this to sell the key for $100 to someone who really does want to steal you car. Do you know anyone who may have contact with these type of people in your neighborhood? If so, have them put out the word they want to buy a Lexus key for $100. You may get lucky and your problem will be solved for just $100. If this doesn't work, you could try code58s suggestion of having a switch put in to cut off the fuel pump. This will ensure that you car can't be moved even though they can still get in unless you have locks re-keyed. I don't think the dealer would get involved with the switch type of thing so you would have to use a repair shop for this. But dealer could accomplish the same thing by programming your ECU to accept just your existing keys. What I think is going to be the most expensive part here is getting locks changed or re-keyed so thief can't get in. Maybe the most cost effective way out is to have ECU programmed so your car can't be started with the stolen key and just add a very basic alarm system in case the thief returns and opens the door. As far as the static type noise goes, I bet it is just something to do with a dead battery and wouldn't worry about it unless it persists after everything is straightened out. Good luck and whatever you do be sure and post back with the results. I had a somewhat similar issue in that my significant 'other' got her handbag stolen with ID and key of the RX300. I was concerned the thieves would one day come and try to drive the RX away. Explained this to the insurance co., and they suggested and paid for a change of locks. It cost north of $1500 from Lexus: new (or rekeyed/but not told to me) locks on ignition, hatch, both front dorrs, two new electronic keys + a valet key. Worth it (specially since I was covered except for deductible) for the peace of mind. If you have claimed from your insurance for the original theft, you probably would not have to pay the deductible again, and I would assume that no additional 'negative' would go against your policy.

If you are at all concerned, you may be able to buy an extended warranty before the end of the original. However, I know a number of people who have owned S-type Jags, in Europe and the US, and none have had problems, inlcuding the high-mileage (65K miles) ones. I also think the car has lots of 'class'. Claudia (my 'other' half) find sthe car too small, uncomfortable etc..., so we never got one though we were offered tehm at very good prices, low miles (like you). I think it has the feel of a 'classic', even though it is obviously not one. Congratulations, and good luck! Paul

it should do the trick pretty much after 30 sec, maybe you should check the freon. does your AC work? IMHO, "Defog" uses the A/C to cool the air, extract humidity, then reheat it and make it dryer, so as to absorb the humidity ('fog') on the inside of the windshield. To "Defrost", you must turn off the A/C (which probably turns 'on when you press the front window Defog/defrost button) and this will allow heated air to hit the inside of the windshield, heating the glass so that frost (or ice or snow) melt on the outside. Lexus recommends turning temp to "hi" when defrost is needed, but after a short while it is too much heat in the cabin and I then turn it down to the temp. I want.

Whether in Canada or in Michigan, haven't had the problem... and the heat of the motor, when warm, warms up the windshield fluid. Have you tried using the 'lowest freezing point' washer fluid possible (i.e. -30 or -40F). The problem usually occurs when the freezing point of the fluid is too high.

Does not apply to RX. I changed my battery, drove to MI from FL. Then the new battery 'died' after two weeks in the cold (unused car - I was back in Miami), and a friend took the old battery to a dealer and bought a new one and installed it (a couple of hours during which the car was 'basttery-less' - and all works fine ==> no security code needed, but you must 'reset' clock, seat, etc.... Worry not.

You're very welcome. I'm glad it worked fine. Tks. also to blk_on_blk who provided the initial links, info. and 'how-to'. Paul

They use the same power (50/55W) as the regular bulbs, the extra brightness due only to the reflected heat onto the filament, so why would a new harness be needed? Mine work fine with the original wiring. Paul Paul

From what I had read, there was a major difference in durability (between SilverStars and the 9011/9012). The latter have an expected life similar to that of regular bulbs. When I replaced my 'original' bulbs, I found that there was a darkening of the tip on the original high beams (at reduced power, these are the 'daylight-on' lights), and this probably made the comparison even more favorable to the 9011/12 series. But the difference was also apparent on the low-beams.

A couple (or more) months back, when I was disappointed that Lexus 'respectfully declined' to assist in any way in the cost of a rear engine seal for a 68'000 miles RX300, I had received a very kind post back from someone who gave me the URL of a web site that listed the various vehicle models and people's comments on their ownership. If anyone remembers that web site, could you please repeat it to me? I idiotically did not write it down and my memory seems to have gone the way of the rear engine seal - leaky. Thanks much in advance. Paul

Yes, that is essential! (I assume you read the reply I had sent on your other post?) You'll see: it is really neat how the hatch opens and closes with the new struts... with the passage of time, one forgets how 'easy' it was!

Four bolts for each strut, at the end of the struts. Two upper and two lower. Paul

I b elieve I got the same replacement struts - tks. to blk_on_blk -. I also wondered whether to remove the 'ball' from the head of the old struts. Answer is: you don't. You proceed strut by strut (always leave at one strut holding the hatch, which is quite heavy). You start by unbolting to lower two bolts, then the top tow bolts. After a little manoeuvering, the old strut comes out - don't forget to have something holding up the hatch - I used a long plank. The new struts come with a separate 'ball' on a piece that bolts in the top (hatch 'up'), where the old strut was bolted. (This piece is included in your package and is separate). Once you have installed both the lower and upper 'bolted' pieces (make sure they face correctly ; you can check on the remaining strut if you forgot to look at it prior to removal), you must now fix the new strut onto the 'ball'. This is accomplished by removing the wire that lies across the ball housing (rotate the circlip off the rod, then pull it out of the ball housing). It will appear that the strut is too long to allow the ball to fit into the housing. You must lift very very strongly the hatch and - just barely - you will be able to insert the ball into the housing. Make sure you have inserted it 'deep' enough (I banged on it a few times with my bare hands), and also make sure the housing angle to the ball is correct. If it is not, you can rotate the housing rod slightly with a pair of pliers. Then you reinsert the circlip and clip it back onto the rod. This holds the ball in the housing. [The second strut is child's play after you've been through the first]. Good luck! Paul

Actually, I believe it works the other way. The speedometer - indirectly - measure sthe number of whell rotations in a specific time. The smaller the wheel, the more the speedometer will overstate the actual speed, and vice-versa, the bigger the wheel, the more the speedometer will underestimate speed, which seems to be the problem here. If the cruise control is set at a specific indicated speed, and after being set the speed creeps up (easy to see by the speedometer), then the problem may be cruise-control linked. If the indicated speed remains constant, the problem may be the speed indication given by the speedometer: either it misreads, or the wheels are larger than it believes (i.e. larger than standard).

Hi Bryan: I am looking for the wiring diagram (and colors of wires) for the rear 'backup' light, and also whether there is - and what color - a ground wire (which I assume does exist). If your offer to send is still good, and if it is not too much trouble, I would be very grateful if you could send me the relevant info. to pjc819@yahoo.com Thanks in advance Paul

Yes, Smooth1, seems to me that it is an issue of speedometer reading rather than cruise control. I am assuming that, after setting the cruise control at a certain speed, it would be evident if the speed increased - the speedometer would read higher. If it doesn't, the original reading was 'wrong'.

Actually, Lee, my new struts are working fine 'out of the box'. It is a real pleasure to feel the hatch be so much more responsive, and to both open and close so easily, even in the cold weather we found in Michigan over the Thanksgiving weekend. Thanks again!! Paul

Thank you, blk_on_blk! You will recall that you guided me re: the purchase and replacmeent of the rear hatch struts for the Rx300, and I put them in yesterday. It was a little tight to fit them (needed very strong 'lifting' of the hatch door to get them to fit in), but they are in now and work perfectly. Thank you for all your help. Well thought out and very useful! Paul

Talk about timing!!! I just arrived in MI (where the RX300 is) for Thanksgiving and installed the new 9011and 9012 bulbs. Last night was first use. It is night and day (pun intended!). The 9011 and 9012 are fantastic. They are definitely brighter, and somewhat more 'white', though not as bright and less 'blue' than the Xenon HID lights. The headlights keep their cut-offs perfectly, and the light is substantially stronger. To explain the feeling, it is like when you had the pre-halogen 'fixed' lights and then the halogen lights became available. I would not not change the bulbs to 9011 and 9012 on any car I would have that did not have them (sorry: convoluted sentence: means that I like them and would put them on all cars that don't have them). Removing the old bulbs was relatively easy. The 'plug' was difficult to detach because you need to press real hard on a 'latch' that frees the plug, and this requires lots of force (probably becuase mine were undisturbed for many years. I got the latch lifted nearly all the way, then use - gently- the tip of screwdriver to ge the last part over the protruding part. Bottom line: I strongly recommend the change. Good luck to all! Paul

Probably the bulb, or a bad connection. The rear taillight is real easy to take off - the screws are under the round little plastic 'pastilles' that you pry off. You then unscrew the screws and pull. It is sometimes a little hard to pull because a rubber gasket hold the taillight assembly in place. Does your dashboard show you a defective lamp when your tailight doesn't work?

Congratulations! I've been looking for something similar, but so far have been unable to find it in Miami. It makes perfect sense! Good luck!