monarch

At any toyota dealership for about $1.50 - $2.00 a quart. All Toyota and Lexus cars come from the factory with genuine Toyota motor oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid and antifreeze. So owners who wish to maintain their cars with these same high quality, factory original fluids and lubes will have to buy them at Toyota dealerships (or pay a higer price if they order them from a Lexus dealership) Note that relatively few Toyota and Lexus dealers or independent Toyota specialty repair shops are willing to use the genuine Toyota factory original lubes and fluids in the cars that come into their dealerships for servicing. That's because they can get better prices on bulk quantities of other brands. And because they know how easy it is to tell Mrs. Jones: "Toyota does not make lubes and fluids and their brand is merely a rebottled and relabeled and overpriced version of the same lubes and fluids we use." So ironically, auto repair shops and even Lexus dealers may end up degrading a Lexus's ultimate reliability and durability by installing aftermarket lubes and fluids. Here's a specific example: some dealers substitute Valvoline Maxlife transmission fluid in place of Toyota Type T-IV fluid even though they know Toyota has not tested and approved the Valvoline Maxlife. And some dealers install aftermarket antifreezes instead of Toyota's unique red or pink antifreeze.

Have you been using regular grade gas?

I've been an on-the-road salesman for 20 something years so I've put over one million miles on 3 Toyotas. (Every Lexus is a Toyota so don't get hung up thinking a Lexus is something way "above" a Toyota). So based on my experiences, my opinions are: 1. Fuel additives not needed if you use a major brand premium gasoline and change the fuel filter every 50,000 miles. But if you want to use an additive anyway, use genuine Toyota fuel injector cleaner and follow the directions carefully to avoid fuel system damage. 2. Don't wash or rinse the engine compartment with water. Wet towels are OK, but it's too risky to spray water around the sensitive electronics under the hood. 3. Throttle body needs to be manually scrubbed clean with a toothbrush and some old rags soaked in carburetor or throttle body cleaner at every tune up or whenever gas mileage or idle smoothness deteriorates. 4. Do not use any oil or fuel additives. They're just gimmicks designed to appeal to owners who don't understand the mechanicals under the hood and are therefore are inclined to think solutions to drivability problems can be found in specialty cleaners

99LSGUY, Thousands of Toyota owenrs have gone over 500,000 miles on dino oils, like the following owner of an '87 Celica: Subject: [Camry] Re: Question about longevity of 1991 Camrys Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 22:14:38 -0000 From: "spark_plug93" Reply-To:Camry@yahoogroups.com Toyotas are the most reliable cars on the road. We have a 87 celica with close to 600,000 milies on it, 91 Previa with 270,000, 93 Camry with 180,000 and a 89 Celica with 270,000 miles (totaled, but was in fine running condition). This is compared to the two Volkswagens that we had (91 Fox, 90 Golf)that never made it to 130,000 or the '99 Subaru that needed a new transmission at 100,000. And dont get me started on the problems that we have had on the American cars that weve owned. After driving American, European and Japanese, it is clear that the Japanese have the cars down to an art, especially Toyota. Alex I use the genuine Toyota dino oil because it's priced the same ($1.40 - $2.00 a quart) as other name brand dino oils at Walmart and is specially formulated for Toyota engines. Lexus dealers, like Toyota dealers, are only interested in maximum possible service dept profits (afterall they are run by Americans and "profits first" is the American way of doing business) so they don't even use the Toyota motor oil and some even scrimp by using Valvoline Maxlife transmission fluid instead of Toyota Type T-IV.

For decades and decades AC engineers have been preaching that the key to keeping an auto AC system troublefree is run the system at least once every week or two throughout the year, including in the winter. The keeps all the rubber parts and seals in the system pliable and lubricated and prevents wear and corrosion of the metal parts. I have a 13 year old Toyota with 436,000 miles with no AC system troubles at all despite heavy use since I live in a hot climate. I just make sure to run the system for a few minutes once a week during the cool winter months.

With a proper charge of the factory original R12, the AC outlet temp is in the 35-42 degrees range so your system is not very cool now if it is putting out only 48 degree air. 36 ounces of R12 costs only around $40 on ebay ($30 in the winter months) and anyone can get certified to buy it if they merely pass a 25 question multiple choice open book $15 exam at www.macsw.org. Your system was designed to run on R12 and a factory specified Suniso or Denso compressor oil. Putting other refrigerants and oils into it will severely degrade system reliability and durability. There are a dozen or more "R12 substitutes" out there on the market and some cool as well or better than R12 but none provide the long term system reliability and durability of R12 and the factory original compressor oil

Where was the car serviced during the first year? Dealers keep permanent, computerized service records. And most independent repair shops keep copies of service receipts for 3-4 years. So it should be possible to track down the service records. On the other hand, if your relative did not have the oil changed at least every 6 months or 7,500 miles during the first year then your relatve must accept personal responsibility for the mechanical consequences (engine damage from oil sludging).

I suspect one reason Toyota / Lexus recommend dino oil - especially the specially forumuted genuine Toyota dino oil - is because it has a long established track record of enabling Toyota engines to last 500,000 miles or more. And one oil company - Quaker State - is so confident in the ability of dino oil to stop major wear that it offers a 250,000 mile engine wear out guarantee if the car owner uses Quaker State dino oil and changes it every 4,000 miles: http://www.pennzoil-quakerstate.com/products/qs.htm That's some pretty good peace of mind

The Q45 provides more power and sportier handling than the LS400 at the expense of a more nervous and jittery ride and substantially worse fuel economy. Interiors of Nissans / Infiniti's look and feel cheaper than Toyotas / Lexus's. Reliability is a notch worse than Lexus, but superior to the European and American luxury cars. In general, the less richly appointed interior and less isolated ride of the Q45 make for a combination that makes the car feel cruder and less refined than the LS400. So a doctor looking for a relaxing drive home after a long day in the office won't like a Q45 as much as a LS400. On the other hand, a Type A, high strung business executive who has a strong desire to keep up with BMW's will favor the power and better cornering of the Q45 over the refinement of the LS400.

There is no risk of sludge if the oil is changed at least every 6 months or 5,000 miles. There is a slight risk if changed every 7-12 months or 5,000 - 7,500 miles. There is a high risk if not changed for more than a year or 7,500 miles even, apparently, when using synthetic oil. This risk applies only to the V6 engine. The V8 is much more sludge resistant, but that doesn't mean the V6 is not an equally reliable and durable motor. It's just more sensitive to the consequences of maintenance neglect.

The Lexus engineers have a recommendation: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/lexoil1.jpg http://www.saber.net/~monarch/lexoilc.jpg

JPI, are you saying you have seen an ES 300 engine sludge up despite oil changes every 10,000 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic oil? Or are you saying this Mobil 1 engine needs to be replaced for some other reason not related to sludge? I just wanted to make sure. Thanks.

Unlike Mercedes, Lexus engineers recommend a dino oil -genuine Toyota Motor Oil http://www.saber.net/~monarch/lexoil1.jpg because it's specially formulated for Toyota / Lexus engines. Also unlike Mercedes, Lexus engineers advise against extending oil change intervals when using synthetic oil and to not ever switch back to dino oil once you start using synthetic oil. Here is what Lexus says in the FAQ on the Lexus website: http://www.lexus.com/home/contact_lexus.html#5 5. Can I use synthetic engine oil in my Lexus vehicle during its break-in period? "Synthetic oil can be used at the first scheduled oil change. Please note that the use of synthetic oil does not extend the recommended oil change intervals. If synthetic oil is used after that time, it should be the same weight specification and meet or exceed the API (American Petroleum Institute) grade specifications. Even if synthetic oil is used, we do not recommend longer oil change intervals. Once synthetic oil is used, it is best not to switch back to petroleum-based oil."

lexusfreak, the synthetic oil makers have had 25 years to provide real world proof to the public that synthetic oil dramatically extends engine life. They have failed to do so. And Nissan, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Mazda - none of them recommend synthetic motor oils. And most long haul trucking companies still use dino oils because there are no dramatic benefits to using synthetic. With regard to transmission oil changes, once again Nissan, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Mazda engineers say just draining and refilling the oil pan is sufficient to deliver hundreds of thousands of miles of trouble free life. The commercial interests that promote total transmission fluid changes have had 15 years to provide real world proof to the public that total fluid exchanges dramatically extend transmission life. They have failed to do so. With regard to coolant changes, just draining and refilling the radiator with Toyota coolant and distilled water is an effective way of keeping the cooling system spotlessly clean inside because the system is never exposed to tap water. Flushing with tap water, on the other hand, results in some tap water being trapped in the system which later produces a bit of minteral build up in the system. So a system that is regularly flushed with tap water will not stay as clean as one that just has the radiator periodically drained and refilled with the factory original coolant mixture.

Here's how alot of money could have been saved while at the same time still using high quality factory original fluids and lubes: 1. Timing and engine belt replacement could have waited to 90,000. Water pump life is generally 10-15 years or 150-250,000 miles if genuine Toyota long life coolant and distilled water is always used (which is also the factory original coolant mixture). So water pump needs to be replaced only every 2nd timing belt change. 2. Throttle body service is important, but you could have done it yourself using a toothbrush, some old rags and a $3 can of carburetor cleaner. 3. Fuel injector service is unnecessary and a waste if you always use a major brand premium grade of gasoline. 4. You could suck the old the power steering fluid out yourself using a 6 foot long, $3 piece of vinyl tubing that you can get from a hardware store. Measure amount remove and replace it with an identical amount of genuine Toyota auto trans fluid (Dexron type). Only $3.50 a quart and less than one quart needed. 5. You could change the brake fluid yourself with a $5 one man brake bleeder device and three, $4 pints of genuine Toyota Brake fluid available from Toyota dealers. 6. Genuine Toyota Engine Oil is available from dealers for $1.50 - $2.00 a quart a specially formulated for Toyota engines and can protect a Lexus engine for 500,000+ miles. So synthetic motor oil is a waste except if you live in below zero winter climates. 7. Draining and refilling the automatic transmission oil pan involves the purchase of only 2-3 quarts of genuine Toyota auto trans fluid for about $3.50 a quart. Measure amount drained and add back an identical amount. Transmission "flushing" is a waste except in extreme cases of transmission neglect and fluid contamination. 8. The air filter costs only $12 from Toyota dealers. 9. One of the most important of all services that was not done on your car is cooling system service. Again fairly simple: just drain radiator, remove and replace thermostat and thermostat gasket with genuine Toyota replacements then refill system with a 50/50 mix of genuine Toyota long life antifreeze and distilled water. Flushing is not needed nor is draining the engine block if Toyota coolant is always used exclusively and changed every few years. If you live in a dusty or buggy area the radiator and air conditioning condenser fins should be cleaned using detergent and water from a garden hose.

yep, just that bit of hesitation around 0-5 MPH. Kind of like a car with a carburetor than has a weak accelerator pump. Since Canadian ES 330's don't have this hesitation, maybe the reason it's present on USA models has to do with emission controls. In the USA, the ES330 was designed to emit extremely low emissions - it's exhaust is twice as clean as the LS 430 & GS 430. So the hesistation may be a side effect of the engineering that produced these impressive low emissions numbers. And since any engineering changes Lexus might make to cure the hesitation might also increase emissions, perhaps Lexus is caught between a rock and a hard place and may never be able to do anything to fully cure the hesitation. The biggest market for the ES330 is southern California and Florida and a majority of people driving them in these two States are middle aged people who place a priority on ride comfort and quietness rather than sporty handling. So Lexus is doing the right thing by making the ES330 ride and handle like a baby limo instead of a sports car. And Infiniti is doing the right thing by making the G35 sporty enough to appeal to a smaller segment of middle aged crowd who values driving excitment and enjoyment more than road isolation.

You will have to be patient and wait for a fix, if there is one. Quite a few owners aren't bothered by the hesitation. I barely notice it, but then I'm a relaxed, unhurried driver. If I was an enthusiast type driver I would have purchased an Infiniti. Also, are you using a quality premium gasoline? The hesitation is worse when using regular or mid-grade gas.

Here in California the cheapest ES330 has a MSRP price of $33,114 and the best price I found the highest volume dealers would sell at in February was $29,995 or $30,000. In the Los Angeles area the dealers offering the $30,000 price were Westminster Lexus, Vista Lexus, and Keyes Lexus. Longo Lexus was a few hundred dollars higher, but had by far and away the best selection of any southern California dealer. In the San Francisco Bay Area Pleasanton Lexus and Coliseum Lexus has the best prices and they were about $300 more than the Los Angeles dealers.

I never claimed to know what the disadvantages of DOT 4 fluids are as compared to DOT 3 fluids. I am not a factory engineer so am not privy to the negative information they appear to have about DOT 4 fluid that prevents them from recommending it. Sorry if I was out of line when I said "some owners think it's exciting, cool and manly to take risks" [with non-factory approved fluids and lubes]. Can you provide some other explanation as to why so many owners (and the mechanics who service their cars) are so unwilling to use the factory original fluids, filters and lubes? It can't be because of price alone because in many cases the price difference is negligible.

SRK, so far you have not explained why Toyota / Lexus / Nissan / Chrysler and some other automakers do not want DOT 4 brake fluids used in their braking systems, except in an emergency situation. So it seems obvious to me there are some positive and negative characteristics of DOT 3 vs DOT 4 fluids and that on balance, the factory engineers feel the benefits of DOT 3 fluids outweigh the negatives. And the negatives of DOT 4 fluids outweight the benefits. Lexus owners who use DOT 4 fluids are therefore taking a risk of unknown proportions of degrading brake and clutch system performance, reliability or durability. Some owners think it's exciting, cool and manly to take risks. Other owners value peace of mind.

The Asian car companies make the most reliable and durable cars in the world. But none of them make, sell or recommend the use of oil additives.

Good point: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/typetdipstick.jpg

Lexus warns against using anything but DOT 3 brake fluid: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/brakefluid.jpg So I believe it is reasonable to assume the Lexus engineers know the chemistry of DOT 4 fluid is different than DOT 3 fluid and different in a way that is detrimental to Lexus brake systems.

Type T-II isn't made anymore. But Toyota came out with Type T-IV which is backward compatible with Type T-II . Any Toyota dealer can get you 1 quart bottles of Type T-IV http://www.saber.net/~monarch/typet.jpg Use Toyota Type T-IV for peace of mind. If peace of mind is too boring for you then you can experiment with more exciting and risky fluids like Amsoil and Valvoline

Drain the transmission oil pan. Measure the amount drained in an orange juice pitcher (99 cents at Walmart) and and the same amount of new fluid. Use this factory original fluid http://www.saber.net/~monarch/typet.jpg With the engine idling, shift slowly though all the gears, ending in Park. Check the transmission dipstick and make sure the fluid level is within the "cold" range. Drive car 10-15 miles and recheck fluid level. It should now be within the Hot range. Over or underfilling risks damage to the transmission. If the drained fluid is chocolate brown or black from neglect or overheating, change the fluid using the procedure outlined above a total of 5 to 7 times over a period of days or weeks. During the last drain, drop the transmission oil pan, clean the magnets and metal filter screen in kerosene or brake cleaner and reinstall. Beware car repair shops, including some Lexus dealers, will push "transmission flushing" very hard because they make big bucks selling these $120 jobs instead on $30 oil pan drain and refill jobs. They also will push using an aftermarket fluid instead of Toyota fluid because the Toyota fluid is more expensive for them to buy. However, no Toyota / Lexus factory repair manual or technician training manuals recommend or endorse "transmission flushing" and they all adamantly advise against ever using an aftermarket fluid. On other Toyota forums some owners have reported trainmission failures soon after these "total fluid replacement" jobs or transmission slipping or rough shifting after installing aftermarket fluids, including synthetic fluids. One shop owner even discontinued offering flushes because the risks outweighed the benefits in his judgement.