monarch

Daffy, do you happen to remember where you purchased the front bearing of the PS pump? This is a job I need to do soon and I'm not sure where to purchase the front bearing. Thanks.

System capacity is about 3 cans of R12 Freon, but you probably need only 1 can because your system is still partially charged http://www.saber.net/~monarch/acrecharge.jpg The charging hose comes with can attachment and charging instructions. Do not overfill. Fill just enough to get the center dash outlet temperature down to 35-40 degrees F with the system set for maximum cooling and 1 can or part of 1 can may be all it needs.

Econ, the Weapon R Intake Video shows a picture of the large Dragon Intake opening and air filter which subliminally suggests to the general public that the stock intake opening and filter is more restrictive and hinders engine performance. So without even showing the public actual test data demonstrating the Toyota stock intake hinders engine performance, the Weapon R executives can effectively convince alot people to buy the Weapon R intake. And since the possible engine reliability and durability consequences of using a Dragon Intake and filter are not likely going to be immediately apparent, thousands of Dragon Intake buyers will say "I havn't had any motor problems since I installed it." Same deal with specialty synthetic transmission fluids. All the fluid makers have to do get the public to buy synthetic Amsoil, Redline or Mobil 1 transmission fluid is to make statements and claims which subliminally suggest to the general public that the factory original transmission fluid delivers an inferior level of transmission reliability and durabiliy. Examples: the label on Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF says it "outperform conventional ATF fluids", "provide better resistance to oil breakdown and deposits under severe duty and high temperatures." So without even showing the public actual data demonstrating the factory original transmission fluid delivers an inferior level of transmission reliability and durabiliy, Amsoil, Redline and Mobil 1 advertizing effectively convinces alot people to abandon using the factory original genuine Toyota transmission fluid. And since the possible transmission reliability and durability consequences of using Amsoil, Redline and Mobil 1 are not likely going to be immediately apparent, thousands of buyers will say "I havn't had any transmission problems since I installed it." You said: "What auto manufacturer has the time to devote to developing the ideal friction modifier to be used in conjunction with a wide array of operating temps?" Well the label on Toyota Type T-IV fluid says it: - was designed by Toyota R&D specifically for Toyota automatic transmssions - precise friction coefficient helps prevent transmission shudder - special additives protect against corrosion and excessive wear - chemically balanced to be compatible with rubber seals and metal finishes inside your Toyota transmission.

A cap type of oil filter wrench is recommended by the factory manual and make filter removal idiotproof. http://www.saber.net/~monarch/oilwrench.jpg The washer on the oil drain plug can be reused for several times before it wears out..

OEM wires are top of the line and anything aftermarket is a downgrade in terms of reliability, durability and fitment. It's no accident Toyota / Lexus vehicles are the most reliable and durable vehicles on the road - it's because they are built with the most reliabile and durable parts available, most of which are designed and manufactured in Japan and unavailable in any auto parts store. Use the exact specific Denso or NGK plugs recommended in the owners manual. Using Iridium plugs in a Toyota that orignally came with Platinum will NOT increase power or fuel economy.

The Toyota Type IV fluid is "specially formulated by Toyota for Toyota vehicles" http://www.saber.net/~monarch/typeTDexron.jpg The Redline and Amsoil transmission fluids are not. Also, you said "how little I know about (and can find out about) the Toyota Type IV". I think that shows just how powerful advertizing influences consumer choices. Redline and Amsoil have big advertizing budgets and that's why consumers are always wondering about them - wondering if they MIGHT be better than factory original (genuine Toyota) fluid. But Toyota hardly spends any money advertizing genuine Toyota oils and fluids so consumers don't wonder or hardly think about how good they might be. Here's another example of how powerful advertizing influences consumer choices. In this case the advertizing get consumers wondering how restrictive the factory air intake and filter system MIGHT be: As seen in the movie 2 Fast, 2 Furious: The Dragon Intake System by Weapon R http://dragonintakes.com/main.html Watch a short video of the Dragon Intake System in action. Hear it, feel it and see what everyone is talking about. http://dragonintakes.com/vids/dragonintake.avi

The CD's on ebay are CD versions of Mitchell manuals, not official Lexus factory repair manuals. These Mitchell manuals are even less detailed than the factory manuals so are a poor choice for both beginners and experienced do-it-yourselfers.

There are two camps of people on this forum: One camp feels the Toyota engineers are the ultimately authority about what is the best fluid to use in Toyota transmissions. These owners use genuine Toyota transmission fluid, either Toyota Dexron III for transmissions that call for Dexron III or Type T-IV for transmissions that require Type T (as your LS400 does) http://www.saber.net/~monarch/typeTDexron.jpg Another camp feels the employees of American oil companies know more than the Toyota engineers about what is the best fluid to use in Toyota transmissions. This camp feels Amsoil Synthetic Universal ATF is superior to any genuine Toyota fluid.

Here is the working link to the ebay toolset http://tinyurl.com/8jxhk

A couple of us are working on tutorials, but they aren't ready yet. Read this thread thoroughly for tips and links to an Australian tutorial: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...19119&hl=valve+ +clearance The toughest part of the job may be figuring out how to remove the valve clearance adjusting shims http://www.saber.net/~monarch/valveshim.JPG A factory toolkit specifically made for the 1990 -97 LS400 V8 is Toyota Part # 09248-55020, but it's currently on backorder at OTC tools and sells for a hefty $99. A near equivalent toolkit is the generic Toyota valve adjusting toolkit Part #09248-55010 which is this one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...m&rd=1&item=249 2451948&category=43998&sspagename=WD1V The valve lifter depressing tool of the cheaper generic kit doesn't work very well on the Lexus V8 - it doesn't depress the valve lifter enough, but an effective work around is to depress the valve lifter using a large screwdriver that has been covered with 7 layers of tape to prevent any chance of nickingor gouging of the metal of the valve lifter. http://www.saber.net/~monarch/valvedepress.JPG Both tool sets include a valve lifter hold down tool that keeps the valve lifter depressed while you remove and install the shim with a magnet. It works well so you should buy the cheaper generic kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...m&rd=1&item=249 2451948&category=43998&sspagename=WD1V to get this important tool http://www.saber.net/~monarch/valveshimrem.jpg However, the installed shim is held tightly to the valve lifter by a film of motor oil. So before a magnet will even be capable of removing the shim, the shim must be loosened (dislodged) from the valve lifter using compressed air in this manner: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/valveduster.JPG

Amsoil enthusiast: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/amsoil.jpg

If your AC system is still partially charged, you can top it off inexpensively like this: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/acrecharge.jpg

For the past 15 years the factory has used a bead of Formed-In-Place-Gasket Sealer part #08826-00080 to seal the oil pan. You can buy a tube of this sealer at any Toyota dealer. Only a tiny amount of torque - measured in inch pounds - is used on the oil pan bolts after the sealer is applied. The whole procedure is explained in the factory repair manual. Normally this FIPG Sealer is leak free for decades / hundreds of thousands of miles. However, Toyota sternly warns owners not to extend oil changes when using synthetic oil and warns against switching back and forth between synthetic and conventional oil. It's possible Toyota issued these warnings because the Toyota engineers know the integrity and life span of the engine seals may be compromised by extending oil changes and switching back and forth.

It's largely an age related choice. Older folks http://www.saber.net/~monarch/leowarfield.JPG know the 3 month / 3,000 miles oil change rule using conventional oil virtually guarantees you admission to the Toyota 400,000 mile club. Younger folks are still learning and get all their information from the internet and car magazines which, of course, are loaded with advertizements by synthetic oil makers, oil analysis companies and specialty oil and air filter makers. These specialty companies pay the bills that finance these websites and magazines. The end result is that the internet and in car magazines have a strong bias in favor of synthetic oil, oil analysis, specialty filters and specialty oil additives. If you end up deciding the Toyota engineers know more than the authors of the car care websites and car magazines then use factory original lubes, fluids and filters and change them more often than suggested in the maintenance schedule because the maintenance schedule is a MINIMUM allowable service frequency schedule. Factory original motor oil is Toyota Oil http://www.saber.net/~monarch/toyoil.jpg http://www.saber.net/~monarch/toyoilb.jpg which is a conventional oil and costs $1.60 - $2.00 a quart at Toyota dealers. On the other hand, if you decide the car care magazines and websites are the ultimate authorities, then you'll probably be buying Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline or Royal Purple oil and extending your oil changes to 10,000 - 15,000 miles and paying $40 a shot to have your oil analyzed by a laboratory on a regular basis. You'll also probably be buying a $25 bottle of Auto-Rx oil additive from time to time to clean up goo that the websites say even synthetic oil can't clean up.

So once again we see owners who use inexpensive CONVENTIONAL oil and change it regularly are rewarded with monster mileage durability.

For 20 years Toyota has mounted the oil filter underneath the exhaust manifold on nearly all it's front wheel drive models sold worldwide including those sold in its home market of Japan. Do-it-yourselfers who read the factory repair manual would see Toyota recommends a cap type oil filter wrench because it makes changing the oil filter easy http://www.saber.net/~monarch/oilfiltcap.jpg So owners who want the job to be easy should simply buy the right tools - a $5 cap wrench and a $5 3/8 " ratchet handle. Then to eliminate the problem of oil spilling when removing the filter simply let the engine oil drain 3 hours or more before attempting removal. Optional: you can partially prefill the oil filter with oil before installation, but to avoid spillage, don't prefill it to the brim - fill just enough to soak the filter element with oil.

Well consider the popularity of the Infiniti FX SUV. I don't know about the Pacific Northwest, but the FX is definately popular in California.

Well Toyota has learned the hard way that even the non boy-racer set is NOT willing to sacrifice power for economy. Examples of lessons learned: 1. Toyota Echo with 5-speed manual trans gets 42 MPG but nobody hardly wants it because 0-60 is a leisurely 11 seconds. 2. Scion - mediocre sales so far despite 36 MPG because it's 0-60 of 10.5 seconds is too leisurely for anyone under 35 years old. 3. Toyota Tundra V8 gets 1-2 better MPG than the Nissan Titan V8, but is 1.5 seconds slower 0-60 so sales of the Tundra are sluggish.

These is a simple trick - just patience. Let the engine oil drain 2-3 hours or even overnight before attempting to remove the oil filter. Then very little oil will come out of the filter when you remove it (if you use a Toyota filter)

All ES's come from the factory with a cold air intake

Yes, drain off the excess if you do not want to increase the chances of being faced with mechanical and seal leakage problems 5-10 years from now. But if you plan to sell your car before then or simply don't mind taking the risk, you'll probably be OK leaving the levels overfilled. No damage will occur right away, but it might during extreme circumstances. Like your transmission might start slipping due to fluid foaming if you drove up a long mountain grade on a hot summer day Your owners manual has stern warnings against overfilling either the engine oil or transmission fluid above the full marks. The proper fluid levels are at or slightly below the full marks, never above them.

Sorry I don't have an answer about $45 lower ball joints, but I am curious to know how you determined the lower joint was "shot" ?? What specifically should I be looking at on my '91 LS400 to determine if the lower ball joints are bad? Are there any steering symptoms associated with bad lower ball joints? Thanks for any help you can provide

Go to lexus.com and click on Owners and register your vehicle. Once you do that you'll have access to a .pdf version of the Scheduled Maintenance Guide

If you look on the labels of all the major oil company brands of synthetic, none make claims of subtantially longer engine life or fuel economy. They just say synthetic flows better at subzero temps and doesn't break down as fast in extremely high temperatures. They don't say how much better and if you research the matter further you find the difference in sub zero pour points is just 5-10 degrees F compared to conventional oil. So the theoretical engine wear and fuel economy benefits of synthetic are marginal at best and negligible for most drivers. Ditto in regard to real world owner experiences. In the real world 600,000 -700,000 miles has been the durability limit of Toyota engines regardless if the owners used conventional or synthetic oil. Amsoil & Royal Purple are not major oil company brands. As is typical of off brand products, Amsoil & Royal Purple DO make claims of substantial engine wear and fuel economy - claims which captivate the attention of young people. So alot of young people are fans of Amsoil & Royal Purple.

No, the manual does not say "Toyota oil only" must be used, but says if it says if other brands are used they should be "the same 5W-30 weight specification and meet or exceed the API (American Petroleum Institute) SL grade specifications" At Lexus.com and Toyota.com it also says not to use synthetic oil until the first scheduled oil change, not extend oil change intervals if using synthetic and further that "once synthetic oil is used, it is best not to switch back to petroleum-based oil."