eds92sc

I was driving my SC400 last night and the instrument cluster started getting dim. My Trac off light and the battery indicator light came on in the dash. After I shut the eng off, I couldn't restart it and the battery seemed so weak it wouldnt even crank the starter. I waited an hour and the car started right up again, but after I began driving it a mile or two, the same thing happened. Could it be I have a bad ignitor? I have heard that when the igniter gets old and heats up, this is a common symptom. At first I thought it would be a bad alternator, but then again, if my battery drained down, why would I be able to start the car right up again after a hour?? Any ideas?

Last night I drove my SC400 and after several miles my headlights and everything else started going dim. I shut the engine down and couldn't start it again. Initially I thought I have a possible bad alternator, but when I went back to the car an hour later, the car started right up. It did the same thing again after several miles. This morning, I went back to the car and it started right up again, and wouldn't restart after I turned the eng off. If my alternator was bad, wouldn't I have a problem restarting since my battery should have drained. My brother thinks I have a bad ignition module, and he has heard of Toyota igniters going bad and giving problems similar to mine when the ignitor starts to get hot. Anyone with any opinions?? When I turn the eng off, I can't even crank the eng at all each time. It seems as if the battery is dead. Before I turn the eng off, I get the following lights on my dash: trac off, and the battery symbol.

Only 99,000 miles

I bought my neighbor's 92SC400 a year and a half ago. My situation was similar to yours. The car hardly got driven for five years. Wish they did what your potential seller did. Within two thousand miles of my driving it, the timing belt busted, and I spent $1500 getting it fixed (along with new plugs, wires, caps, water pump). Then right after that, the O2 sensor went bad and the back side of the engine block blew a freeze plug and started leaking coolant. Had to drop the tranny to get the plug replaced. Then I had an intermittent starting problem, couldn't really figure it out for a while. Changed the battery, and the fuel ECU and it seemed to help. but it came back. I (electronic spray cleaner) cleaned out the connectors that had to be disconnected from the timing belt job, and so far, I think that was my problem. The connectors (I think) go to the crankshaft sensor and the coil, I could be wrong. Driver's side window fell down, replaced the window regulator. Passenger side going bad. Third brake light on spoiler not working. Found the wires were cut from the wearing and pulling on the electrical wires when the trunk lid was opened, easy fix. But all in all, very nice car. Like you said, my bushings could get replaced, but I don't want to drop any more money into it. Don't regret it, but probably wouldn't buy a 92 next time, maybe a 97-00.

Anyone have any quick fixes for my hood struts that just stopped holding up? Besides the broomstick method. Thanks for any repair ideas.....

20mpg sounds about right. Are you saying you used to get 24mpg, and now only get 20? I feel glad whenever I get 20 with combined city and hwy driving.

I mean that the motor is turning but it won't fire up. Not the usual clicking you hear when your starter doesn't turn.

Well, I just came home from a week of vacation. Hopped into my SC400 and car cranked and cranked but no ignition. This has been a previous problem that went away for a couple of months. During that time, I had the battery replaced. Got a new Fuel FCU. Swapped EFI relays around. Everything was fine for those few months. So I tapped on some stuff under the hood. Tapped on the igniter with my screwdriver, and voila, car started again. I also tugged on a few connectors and tapped on the crankshaft sensor I think. Is the crankshaft sensor right around the drivebelt? Anyway, I think I found my problem. I checked Park Plano Lexus and they want 300 bucks for one of these igniters. Does anyone know if I can swap the upper and lower igniters around and solve my starting problem? Does the starting process only involve one of these igniters? Any help will be appreciated. Also, besides disconnecting the battery cable, is these any other safety measure I should follow so I don't get zapped when I replace the igniter?

Yes that was me, I am still having the same issues, I am expecting a new crank position sensor today, and i'm replacing the IAC valve as well, from a 90 LS400 that was wrecked last week. as soon as I get those replaced I will be checking the timing, the timing belt and water pump are 4 months old, so I hope I can get this done. If anybody has an more suggestions please don't hesitate. thanks Tonyw, Did you get your car fixed when you changed out the IAC valve? My car had similar problems as yours. I changed the fuel ECU, the fuel filter, ran Seafoam through the gas tank, and have been filling up on Chevron Supreme with Techron. So far for the past few months, I have been able to start my car each time. However, it is a little odd, but my first start sometimes acts likes it almost won't start but when I let go of the start switch the eng catches and runs without any further problems. All subsequent starts are normal. Haven't been able to figure it out, but since it runs fine I haven't thrown any more money into the car. Been thinking it was the cold start injector or circuit, just a guess. For history purposes, my car snapped a timing belt, so I had the timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, caps, and rotors replaced at the same time. Then the problems started. The car wouldn't start like it used to...... and the rest is what I just mentioned in the earlier paragraph. No I have not gotten mine fixed, I can't fiure it out, with a fresh battery in and on the first crank it seems like it wants to start, it turns over runs for second then dies. I don't know. I forgot to mention I threw in a new battery and new terminal lugs as well. Good luck on your motor. I understand how frustrating it must be after throwing all that money into a car that won't run. Keep the faith, and I hope you weren't affected too much by Gustav.

Yes that was me, I am still having the same issues, I am expecting a new crank position sensor today, and i'm replacing the IAC valve as well, from a 90 LS400 that was wrecked last week. as soon as I get those replaced I will be checking the timing, the timing belt and water pump are 4 months old, so I hope I can get this done. If anybody has an more suggestions please don't hesitate. thanks Tonyw, Did you get your car fixed when you changed out the IAC valve? My car had similar problems as yours. I changed the fuel ECU, the fuel filter, ran Seafoam through the gas tank, and have been filling up on Chevron Supreme with Techron. So far for the past few months, I have been able to start my car each time. However, it is a little odd, but my first start sometimes acts likes it almost won't start but when I let go of the start switch the eng catches and runs without any further problems. All subsequent starts are normal. Haven't been able to figure it out, but since it runs fine I haven't thrown any more money into the car. Been thinking it was the cold start injector or circuit, just a guess. For history purposes, my car snapped a timing belt, so I had the timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, caps, and rotors replaced at the same time. Then the problems started. The car wouldn't start like it used to...... and the rest is what I just mentioned in the earlier paragraph.

A MASSIVE help for me was to change the fuel filter, i gained 7 mpg right off the back, upgrade to a fram. You'd be suprised at how much less gas the engine burns if it flows better. Seems kind of backwards, but it works. Also pick up a throttle chamber cleaning kit from BG products, about 25 bucks, that works awesome too, there is alot of build up in those throttle bodies, esp around the butterfly valve. REALLY? I am getting my fuel filter replaced as we speak. I hope to improve my mileage like yours. I usually get combined 18-19 mpg. Everything is stock in my car. Really, my filter was plugged horribly, and the engine had to strain so much harder to do work that it killed my mpg's. So did it help? Did you try some additives in your fuel and a throttlebody clean up as well? Not really. After the fuel filter was changed, I am still getting the same 18-19mpg combined. I used Seafoam with a full tank of gas. It seemed to make the engine run a little smoother. I didn't use anything for the throttle body. Did you take off the throttle body intake to clean up the throttle body?

Try this link for the idle air control valve clean or repair http://www.planetsoarer.com/IAC/iac.htm

I haven't purchased one, but when I was checking around, I saw www.autocomputerexchange.com had a rebuilt one for $295. Thanks for the website. I always need to know my options before a visit to a $$Lexus$$ dealer.They are the only ones who will tackle the "electronics", and in Canada I think they double the prices! www.autocomputerexchange.com is a great place for an ECM. Replaced mine a year ago through them. You send them yours, and they send you a rebuilt. The $295 includes next day shipping from them. You can actually install it yourself (just unplug the old and plag in the new). It is located under the carpet where the passenger puts their feet - need to rmove the trim panel under the clove box - will save you big money ($1,200 for ECM and another $300 for labor). And if you need tech support these guys are on the phone, walking you through it. Better waranty than a dealership. Cheers, Greg Just curious, what kind of symptoms were you having on your SC400 that was fixed with the ECU?

Why not use some "spiral wrap tubing" to repair the rubber boot? I googled it and found a company that sells them. You might be able to get it at the local hardware store in the electrical section. I used to use it when working on aircraft. With the spiral wrap, you don't have to disconnect either side. You just start wrapping it arounc the damaged section.

My telescopic function barely moves the steering wheel in and out. Does anyone know if this is a bad motor, or is there a quick fix for the telescopic function also?

yea sorry i kinda worded that in a confusing way so heres a picture. I want these lights to be on and off whenever my actual headlights are on and off. right now they only come on when i have my blinker on.. so say I am turning left with the L blinker on, the lower L light is also on but only when either of the blinkers are on, and same for the right side. Why don't you splice the lower cornering lights to your left and right parking light wires so that they come on whenever your parking light/headlight switch is on?

My SC400 blew the timing belt. After that got fixed, I got a leak between the motor and the tranny. My mechanic dropped the tranny and found one of the rear freeze plugs blown. Not sure if you're having the same leak, and possibly have an engine block issue. My engine was running fine, just the freeze plug had blown.

Mine does the same thing. Probably the default mode that the controller is programmed to do.

I don't think it's my starter. My starter always cranks nice and strong.

yes your car was in limp in mode and when you took out the relay it reset the ecu wouldnt be suprised if it happens again Yup, it happened several more times. Now resetting the relay won't fix the problem. I took off the left rear passenger side panel to access the Fuel ECU and took off the connector and reset it, and the car started fine again. I ordered a new fuel ECU from Park Plano Lexus Dealer in TX. Hopefully the new fuel ECU will solve my start problems. Hi there, :P I am a newbie but had the very same problem and no code issues with a 92 LS 400. As it turns out we went through the same process of elimation and replacing of parts that you did. As it turns out the drivers side ignition coil was bad. The mechanic we used initally said because of the crank but no spark it was not getting fuel. After 2 months of dealing with this person and spending cost to $400 we had the car towed to a mechanic in Stockbridge, GA who works on nothing but LEXUS. It took him 30 minutes to find out what the problem was, it is now repaired with no problems. CHECK YOUR DRIVERS SIDE IGNITION COIL WHEN YOU HAVE CRANK BUT NO SPARK. Happy Driving. :D Thanks for the tip. When you said you had the very same problem and same process of elimination, just confirming you also swapped out the EFI relays, changed fuel ECU, replaced fuel filter, etc. Did your Lexus mechanic explain exactly why the driver's side ignition coil was the problem? Is it only the driver's side ign coil that is used for an initial cold start? Thanks for any info you can provide? And was your problem intermittent also?

How about in the gas tank? I just put in 16 ounces of seafoam and topped off the tank. The can said one ounce for each gallon, and with the SC400 20 gallon tank I figured it should be good. Anyone knows if it's a good fuel injector cleaner applied this way. Exactly how do you siphon the seafoam through the egr system???

COULD A WEAK ALTERNATOR CAUSE THIS EVEN IF I JUST REPLACED THE BATTERY? THEORETICALLY COULDNT THE ALTERNATOR BE BAD, AND A NEW BATTERY COULD COMPENSATE FOR IT UNTIL IT RAN OUT OF JUICE? Do you get any "Check Eng" or "BATT" lights. And how are you "reseting the relays"? If you're getting Check Eng; do you know how to retrieve the codes. As I said before;There are a couple of other things that might also cause you problems. Just don't panic and Keep It Simple S_____. Take everything into account that the car is doing and not doing. ie., you should have "Check Eng" or "BATT" lights on before you crank it and they go out after the engine is running. This is all helpful info. Also, do you have a multimeter? If so; with eng off, place Pos(+) lead on Pos post of Batt. Neg(-) lead on eng block. Read and record Voltage DC. Start eng; Voltage should rise a few volts over 12VDC. this tells you that your Alt/&voltage regulator are good. When I reset my relays, I mean I physically pull them out in the fuse box, and put the relay right back in. I reset the EFI relay, and most times it lets me start the car right up. I don't get any lights in my dash, and all lights turn out after the car starts. The car runs fine once it starts, I'm now thinking cold start injector switch or injector problem. What do you think? Haven't chkd the alt voltage yet. OK. Now take out the EFI relay and check it's contacts. Make sure that they are clean. Use a small nail file or sand paper,anything. If you have that multimeter check ; for ground on pin 3. And finally, since your there; swap the relay with the DEFROST relay. As it is summer and I don't think your using it. I haven't done the multimeter chk yet. I already swapped all the same relays around while troubleshooting. I peeked around where I think the cold start injector switch is. I found what appears to be like a ground "prong" connector that might have been not completely seated snugly. I reseated it several times. See how it goes from here. Car has been starting fine after this, but everytime I think it's ok, problems reappears soon. Which one is pin 3 for the EFI relay, and if there's no ground, is there a wiring issue or a component issue?

Is the timer switch just to the right of the water neck inlet coming from the radiator? Any other suggestions regarding my problem? I've looked on this and other Lexus forums, but I haven't read a true fix yet on this "common problem". Thanks again.

COULD A WEAK ALTERNATOR CAUSE THIS EVEN IF I JUST REPLACED THE BATTERY? THEORETICALLY COULDNT THE ALTERNATOR BE BAD, AND A NEW BATTERY COULD COMPENSATE FOR IT UNTIL IT RAN OUT OF JUICE? Do you get any "Check Eng" or "BATT" lights. And how are you "reseting the relays"? If you're getting Check Eng; do you know how to retrieve the codes. As I said before;There are a couple of other things that might also cause you problems. Just don't panic and Keep It Simple S_____. Take everything into account that the car is doing and not doing. ie., you should have "Check Eng" or "BATT" lights on before you crank it and they go out after the engine is running. This is all helpful info. Also, do you have a multimeter? If so; with eng off, place Pos(+) lead on Pos post of Batt. Neg(-) lead on eng block. Read and record Voltage DC. Start eng; Voltage should rise a few volts over 12VDC. this tells you that your Alt/&voltage regulator are good. When I reset my relays, I mean I physically pull them out in the fuse box, and put the relay right back in. I reset the EFI relay, and most times it lets me start the car right up. I don't get any lights in my dash, and all lights turn out after the car starts. The car runs fine once it starts, I'm now thinking cold start injector switch or injector problem. What do you think? Haven't chkd the alt voltage yet.

Anyone who posted on this particular topic have any good fixes for this particular problem? Please help!!!