eds92sc

I ended up fixing my car with an ECU also. My problem wasn't exactly the same as yours. But initially I had an intermittent no start problem, cranks just fine. Then after I changed the fuel ECU, it kinda fixed it for a while. 6 weeks ago, the car died out on me getting off the fwy. I couldnt start it again and had it towed to the shop. The next day, my shop couldnt duplicate the problem and checked EVERYTHING. Then finally I got a hard fault of the car just not starting anymore. Cranks but wont start. They wrung out the wires, and traced it to the ECU. I wasnt as lucky as you. I bought a used ECU on Ebay. When it arrived and the shop installed the ECU, it fixed the no start problem but they heard a part loose inside the ECU. Ended up being a capacitor or resistor or something. I contacted ariparts which is the company in florida i bought the computer from, but they wont give my money back cuz the computer was opened. I lost 150 on that computer. I bought a new remand computer from Lexus, now the car is like new again.

YAY, the new computer fixed the problems. The car seems to start quicker too. :D if the "cel" light came on there should be codes stored in history even if the light came on and then went out. Let me ask a few questions first....when the car went dead did the radio, guages or anything else suddenly turn off as well? Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the PSI on the rail is within factory specs. Do this several times (once on a "cold start" and one after you have driven the car for 10min or more). how long had you been driving when this happened? How long did the car sit before you were able to restart it? What mods (if any) have been preformed on your car?

********UPDATE******* Well my shop duplicated the problem, not actually duplicate but the car died and wouldn't start anymore. All troubleshooting pointed towards a bad computer. I bought a used one online from some guy on ebay in florida. I received it last week. After installing the computer, it fixed my no start problem. New problem tho, a little part could be heard rattling inside the computer. Found out it is some type of resistor or capacitor. It caused my Trac off and check eng light to turn on and off on its own. Now I'm going to buy a new computer from Lexus of Roseville. They have a killer deal for those who want to know. If you plug in FB10 (Facebook 10%0ff) on anything you purchase, you'll get the ten percent off. Here's the website: http://www.mylexparts.com/ This saved me 70 bucks off their price for a ECM. The original price was already pretty good. I'm going to pick it up when they receive it since the store is in California about an hour or so from where I am. So my new computer will be about 7 bills after the core exchange. Not bad from the dealer. Too bad I wasted $150. The ebay store said if you open the computer up, they won't honor any returns. Oh well, anyone want a used computer that works but has some unknown problem?? I'll sell it for half the price I paid for it... plus shipping....let me know if the "cel" light came on there should be codes stored in history even if the light came on and then went out. Let me ask a few questions first....when the car went dead did the radio, guages or anything else suddenly turn off as well? Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the PSI on the rail is within factory specs. Do this several times (once on a "cold start" and one after you have driven the car for 10min or more). how long had you been driving when this happened? How long did the car sit before you were able to restart it? What mods (if any) have been preformed on your car?

Guess no one remembers. I got a used one on ebay for $150. Hopefully it works and fixes my no start problem.

I purchased a brand new passenger side window regulator from park plano tx lexus and have never installed it. Paid close to $100. will sell for $80 plus shipping. Part number is 69801-24033. I also have a set of igniters I purchased while troubleshooting my intermittent no start problem. Bought used for 60 for set, will sell for 40 for set. Part number is 89621-12050 One last item is the fuel pump control ECU I purchased new to troubleshoot same problem. It didn't fix my problem but I left the new one in. Used fuel pump ECU for sale for $50 bucks, part number is 89570-24010. Shipping will be added to cost. Unknown cost til I go to post office to ship.

I bought a new remanufactured ECM from the Lexus dealer. All fixed. I do have a used ECM that I got on Ebay. Wasnt a good part, will get the eng started, but check eng light comes on. Anyone want it for fifty bucks?

I was looking around and couldnt find it. Does anyone remember where I can purchase the reman'd ECM for my 92 SC400 for $295 if I remember correctly? I need the part number 89661-24230 California vehicle. Was the place a reputable company?? Thanks in advance.

front passenger floorboard Thanks Sean, You da man.

Hello everyone, Still in the process of troubleshooting the intermittent no start and stall problem on my 92SC400. My mechanic was finally able to duplicate the problem, but no codes. Once, it happened at idle while moving forward at less than 5mph. The second time, it was on an onramp when it stalled. The eng won't restart now. It may or may not be the ECM according to my mechanic, still checking wires, grounds, etc. Where is the ecm exactly? I'm planning on purchasing one off the junkyards for 135 bucks. Hopefully the ECM I buy won't be bad itself and cause new problems.

I took it to the shop to diagnose the problem. It sat all day and then they couldnt duplicate. before they touched the car, I tried some simple things that worked before for me. I have a spare set of igniters that I plugged in. I tried resetting the EFI relays under the hood by swapping the relays around. I saw my positive battery terminal had corrosion on it so I cleaned it up. All no help. Then the next day, they started it up no problem. They didnt get any codes. Fuel psi was good. I was driving it for 15 minutes when the car died when i let off the gas going to my offramp. The radio and everything else was still working when the eng quit. So between the time the car died, and the problem being unable to be duplicated would be roughly 20 hours off. if the "cel" light came on there should be codes stored in history even if the light came on and then went out. Let me ask a few questions first....when the car went dead did the radio, guages or anything else suddenly turn off as well? Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the PSI on the rail is within factory specs. Do this several times (once on a "cold start" and one after you have driven the car for 10min or more). how long had you been driving when this happened? How long did the car sit before you were able to restart it? What mods (if any) have been preformed on your car?

Well guess what..... I can't duplicate the problem now. Fuel pressure is good, the fuel filter has been replaced 5K miles ago, don't know what the hell is wrong. No codes either.... I'm afraid to drive it because it will probably happen again, and then I'm again gonna be stuck in the middle of nowhere waiting for a tow.

Any ideas out there? What about a crankshaft sensor going bad? Please help. I was getting off the freeway and then the eng just dies. I saw the check eng light come on. The eng cranks but I cant get it to start. Any ideas? 15K miles ago, the same thing happened, but it was my timing belt that busted. Any chance it would be the timing belt again? The car has had the wires and plugs changed at the time. I changed both ignitors while troubleshooting an intermittent starting problem a year ago. The fuel ECU is recently replaced.

I was getting off the freeway and then the eng just dies. I saw the check eng light come on. The eng cranks but I cant get it to start. Any ideas? 15K miles ago, the same thing happened, but it was my timing belt that busted. Any chance it would be the timing belt again? The car has had the wires and plugs changed at the time. I changed both ignitors while troubleshooting an intermittent starting problem a year ago. The fuel ECU is recently replaced.

I was getting off the freeway and then the eng just dies. I saw the check eng light come on. The eng cranks but I cant get it to start. Any ideas? 15K miles ago, the same thing happened, but it was my timing belt that busted. Any chance it would be the timing belt again? The car has had the wires and plugs changed at the time. I changed both ignitors while troubleshooting an intermittent starting problem a year ago. The fuel ECU is recently replaced.

Recently I haven't been able to unlock my driver's door with the remote and I have to manually use the key to unlock the door? Is the actuator bad? I am able to lock it with the remote with no problem.

What size of speakers can I install on the door speakers without modification on my 92 SC? Forget I asked. :chairshot:

How about using the following link to get a diagram/schematic for your issue? If the link doesnt work, just go to techinfo.toyota.com https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/...info.toyota.com

Forget I asked. I tried to use a chisel, and ended up damaging the threads on the stud. Ordered new studs from Park Place Lexus Texas.

Does anyone have any brilliant ideas on how to get the ball studs off the hood lift supports. I bought two replacement supports on ebay, and now I am having a hard time getting the ball stud off the old supports. I unscrewed the studs off the hood and fender, and don't want to destroy the stud trying to get it off the support.

Anyway ever experienced a steering box failure where the steering completely failed and separated from the steering linkage? My co-worker's parent lost control of their 92 SC400 and crashed into a parked car. Luckily no one was hurt. The SC400 did have over 200K miles at the time. Looking for input or any knowledge regarding what exactly failed. Thanks.

I replaced this a year or so ago. I bought it new online at Park Plano Lexus in Texas for about $277 plus shipping. Just plug and play if in fact it is your problem. I had an intermittent start problem, and don't think it was my solution. But I left the new part in anyway. Do you want my old fuel control unit for $50 plus shipping? I can't promise it is any good, but like I said, I don't think it was my fix.

My factory radio suddenly quit working. Is there a fuse that blew? The radio is hooked up to an amp. I can hear the amp turn on, and the radio turns on fine,but i get no sound from the speakers. Any ideas?

You say the belt looks ok. Did you actually check the tension by flexing it. Should twist less than 45 Deg and not deflect much more than ~ .5 in. when pressed. How far did your reading drop and did it level off or continue dropping? Try running it for 5 minutes and watch the voltage. Then load it for the next 5 minutes and see what happens. If the batt went to 14 V right away, the connection is prolly ok, but I would check anyway. Also check the ground. I recharged my battery for several hours. Then I restarted the car and checked the voltage with the eng running for at least five minutes. The volts went to almost 14 initially, then when I loaded the eng with hi beam headlights and AC, the volts dropped to near 12. I checked the pulley bearings for the serpentine belt, they seemed ok. What I saw next was odd. With the eng at idle, my timing would jump all over the place constantly. I'm gonna wait for my two igniters that I bought used on Ebay, and install it and see if my problem is solved. Still unsure if my alternator is bad, but at the same time seeing my timing fluctuating at idle makes me think otherwise? IT WAS MY ALTERNATOR AFTER ALL. I BOUGHT TWO USED IGNITERS ON EBAY AND IT DIDNT MAKE A DIFFERENCE. ALTERNATOR WAS BAD. Anyone want to buy my used igniters??

You say the belt looks ok. Did you actually check the tension by flexing it. Should twist less than 45 Deg and not deflect much more than ~ .5 in. when pressed. How far did your reading drop and did it level off or continue dropping? Try running it for 5 minutes and watch the voltage. Then load it for the next 5 minutes and see what happens. If the batt went to 14 V right away, the connection is prolly ok, but I would check anyway. Also check the ground. I recharged my battery for several hours. Then I restarted the car and checked the voltage with the eng running for at least five minutes. The volts went to almost 14 initially, then when I loaded the eng with hi beam headlights and AC, the volts dropped to near 12. I checked the pulley bearings for the serpentine belt, they seemed ok. What I saw next was odd. With the eng at idle, my timing would jump all over the place constantly. I'm gonna wait for my two igniters that I bought used on Ebay, and install it and see if my problem is solved. Still unsure if my alternator is bad, but at the same time seeing my timing fluctuating at idle makes me think otherwise?

Test your alt. Could also check all connections to your alt/batt and the tension on your S-belt. I checked the battery voltage and it showed 12V, then I started the engine and it went to near 14V, but when I loaded the eng with lights and hi beam, the volts started dropping. The S belt looks ok, but I haven't verified the connections at the alternator yet.