drjeckle

Your off to a good start. The PO of my 92 SC400 had installed Kenwood speakers in the doors and hat shelf in an effort to improve the sound. He probably did, but when the amp died I decided to install a modern sound system. I installed a JVC 700 series dual din head unit in the dash and then replaced the amp and disc changer with a pair so Sony Xplod single and quad channels amplifiers by building a sub-floor and vertical mount for the amplifiers. No trunk space was lost in this modification. I kept the Kenwood speakers because they are rated at 160 Watts, and I also kept the factory subwoofer because I could not find anything that would fit in it's place. I still have the Sony Xplod subwoofer in the garage. The sound improvement was dramatic. Recently the car was hit in the rear and totaled. I removed the sound system components, including the Kenwood speakers that were already in place. I found the subwoofer amp was just barely cracked on the input level control and it was plenty. That is probably why I did not blow the speaker. I will install them in my next car, and probably use the Xplod sub speaker in the garage too if I don't get an SC. Now I either need to find another nice SC with a tan interior or sell the leather interior kit that arrived a few days before the car was totaled. Time will tell.

I am attempting to connect an aftermarket device to the IAC leads on my 92 SC400. I need to know if the IAC is part or the MAF unit, or if it is separate, and where it might be located. If it is part of the MAF I need to know which color the wires connect to the IAC. Any help would be appreciated.

This might be a little late, but when I wanted to purchase a Nissan 300ZX Right Hand drive from Canada I decided to call US customs about what might be involved in bringing the car into the US. I was told that if I intended to LICENSE the car in the US I would have to have it federalized in California. About $8000 if I remember correctly. That said. IF you are not going to license the car in the US you can probably import it. Customs told me that they do not want Japanese parts imported, but if you are going to "race" the car you are not going to license it, but you would register it. The best advice I can give you is to call US Customs and talk to them. I might suggest you do it from the viewpoint of using this car as a starting point to build a race car. Good luck

I just finished most of the installation of a JVC double DIN 700 series radio in my 92 SC400. I went a little farther and installed a pair of Sony Xplod amplifiers for the 4 speakers and single Sub. All of these items were purchased by visiting some of the price comparison sites on the web. I was able to save over $60 on the amps alone, and they paid the shipping. I saved almost $90 on the radio by doing some careful shopping. I debated long and hard when my amp quit, but the sound clarity is far, far superior to the Nak that I just replaced. I did not go for a nav or TV unit because the software is outdated in a year or two, and I have a GPS in my cell phone anyway. I stayed away from an in dash TV since TV stations are about to go away anyway, and why put a DVD in the car when it is illegal to be able to see the screen while driving. With the JVC I can add any of several options, including Bluetooth phone, Sirus radio, a multi-disk changer, etc. The whole installation is where the original radio parts for the Nak were originally.

Explanation #9 in the link above does a great job of describing the cause of your problem. To put it simply you are not drawing enough current through the LED bulbs to turn off the fault sensor. Other than ignoring the sensor (which would drive me nuts) there are two choices you have. 1) Go back to the original 192 bulbs and grumble because you liked the look of the LED's. 2) This one takes a little more work, and some figuring too. If you subtract the current draw of the LED bulb from the current draw of the 192 bulb you can see how much current your fault sensor is missing. If you divide the missing current into 14 volts you will get the amount of resistance you need to add to the circuit to satisfy the fault sensor. The resistor should be connected in parallel with EACH LED bulb (that's one resistor for each LED bulb) so that the fault sensor sees the correct current draw when the bulb is on. Don't forget to multiply the calculated current by 14 volts to get the power rating of the resistor, then double that number for reliability. So a 2 watt resistor should call for a 4 or 5 watt resistor to be purchased. If you do it right, and make sure you mount everything securely away from any plastic that might melt (the resistors can be in the bottom of the trunk if you like), you will have LED bulbs and no dash light. It's a bit of work, but worth the trouble if you want the look.

Since I purchased my 92 SC400 the rear window heater has not worked. Searching the archives found many questions, but no repair suggestions. Checking the under hood relays proved they were all good and working properly. Recently the Nak amp died and I chose to install a modern sound system rather than to repair or replace the amp. That meant tearing the interior behind the seats out of the car to run wires and replace the rear speakers. Looking for problems with the rear window heater was high on the to-do list while I had things apart for the sound system installation. What I found was that someone had been there before, and they did not know what they were doing. Both with the electrical connections, and reassembling the car when they were done. There are three 1/4" wire connectors on the left side of the rear window. The connectors for all three connections had lost their spring tension from heat and were not making real contact with the window connectors. I cut the connectors off of each wire and installed new 1/4" female connectors. The fit to the window connection very tight, and now I have a good rear window heater. Only two of these connectors are used for the window. The bottom connector is ground, the center is power for the heater wires, and the connector at the top of the window is the antenna for your keyless entry receiver. When I reconnected the antenna the range moved from right next to the car to about 6-10'. Much better.

As noted you did not offer much information on what you are trying to install. Currently I am right in the middle of installing a JVC 700 series radio in place of the Nak because the Nak amp died. You are looking at a big project. I am doing the work piecemeal as time permits and still driving the car. I doubt I would do it for someone else for under $500 plus parts if you are installing amplifiers in the trunk, etc. If you are not installing external amps you could probably hack the wiring harness severely and use the speakers in the car. That would be easier, but going back to a Nak would be a mess, if not out of the question. I am installing two Sony amps, 3 new speakers in the rear, and eventually new speakers in the doors. For now I have the new 5.25" rear mids sitting on the floor behind the seats running from the radio and they sound immensly better than the speakers I will be replacing. I have wiring diagrams showing how to connect the stock wiring harness into the radio wiring harness, including making the antenna work properly. If you want a copy send me a note and I will be happy to send it to you. I will be posting the wiring diagrams and other pictures to the forum when I have finished the complete installation.

Good link. Thanx. Now I can shop a bit with the right part number in hand. Still looking for a used part if I can find one.

I am in the middle of installing a new sound system in my SC400. The ECT switch is defective and I would like to locate another while I have things all torn apart.

I have been through the archives trying several different search terms and cannot find a schematic for the amplifiers or radio posted. Before I reverse engineer the bass amp in order to repair it, is there a schematic available for purchase or download.