sc400InTraining

I also had this problem replaced the heater hose as it was cracked with slight leak on underside where you cant see.

Forgot to mention that I am also having the same problem but for the most part taking care of the Engine and Tranny mounts got rid of most of the vibration, but the problem is still going on. If you dont decide to do it yourself, I would recommend not paying more then $250 for the job based on the inputs from the DIYs in the thread (or atleast thats what I negotiated for) Im gonna take Hooplehead and 420's direction next. But replacing the mounts is a definate, my car rides like brand new minus the "light" vibrations still happening at Idle while the car is in drive. However between 0 and 40 mph its smooth as sh*t but when I get between 40 and 50 mph the "light" vibrations kick back in and that's with Over drive engaged. Disengaged it vibrates while idle in drive but no "light" vibrations between the 40 and 50 mph. I will update this weekend when I have time

Regarding Engine and Transmission mounts here are the numbers: Engine Mounts(2): 12360-50110 for $202 Transmission Mount: 12371-50030 for around $60 I think Got my parts from ToyoLex Parts Connection, I get all my "Dealer Parts" from those guys, they are the real f**kin hookup!!

So yea... Sometimes I wonder about ppl here and the way they just love to take it up the A## with out so much as looking into the problem themselves. Oh well thats why Im here... So that blinking led light you see doesn't necessarily represent a bad compressor what it's telling you (with out explaining the wiring nitty griity) is that there is no relay connection being detected which "charges" the compressor(blow cold air) so you may actually have a magnetic clutch relay or bad/old wiring you can test this hypothesis by connecting a temporary lead(12 guage wire and two alligator clips) from the the positive side of the car battery and attaching it to terminal 3 of the magnetic clutch relay. The relay should be the only connection of wiring you see right there above the compressor. Before doing this make sure there is freeon in that baby and you turn the A/C on full power and that the negative side of the battery is grounded(the "thingy" is connected), also becareful of the drive belt that sh*t is a hoss! I just remembered something else.... There is this thing called a compressor lock sensor which causes the A/C button to blink if: your engine rpm is higher then like 450 or something. and the timing between the compressor and engine is rpm is off. So what you could do is adjust the tension on the drive belt to put them back in sync(take a crow bar to the tensioner have a friend help!) Also the Compressor lock sensor could be faulty that thing is right next to the relay clutch and is only a two terminal connection where as the Magnetic Relay clutch is 4 terminals last edit promise... The magnetic relay clutch is located at Relay Block 2 which is under the hood to your right (if you are standing in front of the car) with two screws that keep it closed.

So yea... Sometimes I wonder about ppl here and the way they just love to take it up the A## with out so much as looking into the problem themselves. Oh well thats why Im here... So that blinking led light you see doesn't necessarily represent a bad compressor what it's telling you (with out explaining the wiring nitty griity) is that there is no relay connection being detected which "charges" the compressor(blow cold air) so you may actually have a magnetic clutch relay or bad/old wiring you can test this hypothesis by connecting a temporary lead(12 guage wire and two alligator clips) from the the positive side of the car battery and attaching it to terminal 3 of the magnetic clutch relay. The relay should be the only connection of wiring you see right there above the compressor. Before doing this make sure there is freeon in that baby and you turn the A/C on full power and that the negative side of the battery is grounded(the "thingy" is connected), also becareful of the drive belt that sh*t is a hoss! I just remembered something else.... There is this thing called a compressor lock sensor which causes the A/C button to blink if: your engine rpm is higher then like 450 or something. and the timing between the compressor and engine is rpm is off. So what you could do is adjust the tension on the drive belt to put them back in sync(take a crow bar to the tensioner have a friend help!) Also the Compressor lock sensor could be faulty that thing is right next to the relay clutch and is only a two terminal connection where as the Magnetic Relay clutch is 4 terminals

please search this forum for topic A/C compressor does not turn on

So yea... Sometimes I wonder about ppl here and the way they just love to take it up the A## with out so much as looking into the problem themselves. Oh well thats why Im here... So that blinking led light you see doesn't necessarily represent a bad compressor what it's telling you (with out explaining the wiring nitty griity) is that there is no relay connection being detected which "charges" the compressor(blow cold air) so you may actually have a magnetic clutch relay or bad/old wiring you can test this hypothesis by connecting a temporary lead(12 guage wire and two alligator clips) from the the positive side of the car battery and attaching it to terminal 3 of the magnetic clutch relay. The relay should be the only connection of wiring you see right there above the compressor. Before doing this make sure there is freeon in that baby and you turn the A/C on full power and that the negative side of the battery is grounded(the "thingy" is connected), also becareful of the drive belt that sh*t is a hoss!

Well..my relationship has ended and I will no longer be considered a proud owner of the sc400 bad news for me but hopefully good news for you guys I hydroplaned over the weekend and hit a curb bending my left strut rod and lower control and literally popped my tire. We are talking near 1000$ in repair for parts and labor and Im just not interested... I love this car but there are to many electrical problems to chase down and fix after I get that repaired so I'm parting out luckily for you guys who need damn near rare suspension and other parts I replaced nearly most of my suspension and tuned up my engine and kept it in good running condition the tranny sounds bad could go out not sure but there is this clanking every time I shift of course thats only on cold starts. ok so anyway Im located in Raleigh, North Caroloina contact me via email at quis659@gmail.com with your REAL NAME please I dont wanna deal with some hotrod84 or cutetread98 and with a phone number if you want as well as the parts you are interested in and offer price first come first serve and relax even though I know how hard it is to get your hands on parts for this car I wont ask for ridiculous prices but please bear in mind that most of my suspension barely has 5,000 miles of wear on it and also unless you can offer at least $2500 don't ask to buy the full car any questions post or email me (email is better as I check that on a nearly hourly basis and now a moment of silence for my baby....

ok stop spazzing and remember to breathe.... First you need to check the window regulator and see if it is good or not dont just throw parts at the problem you will waste money and take up parts for another person who might actually need a regulator, remember lexus sc parts are very hard to come by these days. Window regulation check: The window regultaor is nothing more then a mechanical system powered by a motor that makes the windows go up and down from circuits that are open and closed via window switch. When someone says "replace regulator" majority of the time they are talking about the motor. "part confusion through reference" is common in the auto industry, so make it a habit to gain insight and knowledge on other parts that are in direct relation to one another 1.remove the inside door panel 2.look for a connector with ONLY TWO TERMINALS 3.apply car battery power to the two terminals and switch between polarity to power the windows up and down if you have any question on any part of this process search forums first then post and DONT SPAZ!

If your speakers work when you use a different type of media such as a cd/tape or aux connection to like an Iphone/droid/Ipod then there is probably something wrong with your radio reciever

Yo my heating was doing the same thing so what I would do in the morning is crank the heat all the way up and have it blowing as much as possible with the vents closed. and when the car was at regular operating temperture I would then open the vents back up and voila! heat. I'm not really sure why this works but it does so I lost intrest in fixing the problem intelligently, hope this helps those on a budget

try taking the inside of the door off and checking to make sure the two pressure wires have full contact.

currently in the process of trouble shooting some transmission problems (atleast i think they are transmission related) first off I had problems with driving forward or reverse in the morning, I solved that later down the line my throttle cable was basically to cold to close all the way then later I started noticing that the kick-down foot switch (gas pedal) wasnt letting me press as easily and whenever I hit more then 60 m.p.h. and let of the gas I hear this loud almost growling sound and cant tell where its coming from my theory is just that it might be the transmission but I don't know for sure. Im currently trying to come up with some tests to troubleshoot and if I solve the problem Ill post about it.However if anyone has any leads please reply.

Dude your thinking to hard about this issue its not something that takes anything past 4th grade science, you have a squeaky door not a gear thats stuck in place or somethng extremely mecahnical (not to insult your intelligence...really) just dab a gloved hand in some motor oil and lightly lather the hinges. P.S. I don't know if you will be able to figure this out later or anything so ill spoon feed you some more..if the squeaks come back after a while then you should ___ ____ ___ beacuse the old oil dried up.

Ill take if from here...put a little bit of R12 in and then take some soapy water and coat the line where the suspected leak is and the air should show itself by blowing bubbles at the leaking spot however just a little bit of soapy water don't try to bathe the line in it or...jack it off...Giggidy.