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ml30306, You may have partly solved your problem in your last post. It is possible that your noise is on the other side of the firewall, inside the engine compartment, or even under the cowl plastic covers that hide the wiper arm mechanism. Worth a look. Tracing down noises and rattles always drives me crazy. About half of the time you think the noise comes from one area, only to discover that you were completely wrong. My 2nd OBW LTD (2004) had a rattle from the back end that drove me absolutely crazy! I looked underneath the car, nothing, took the entire cargo area panels from the car, nothing, and then rode in the cargo area as my wife drove the car. Bingo!!! The rattle was the center shoulder belt that was stored in the ceiling by the tailgate. It wasn't properly locked down and rattled over bumps.

sweetchick79, Don't go throwing parts at the car unless you are absolutely certain they need changing. You may be throwing away good parts and money needlessly. And as you know Lexus parts don't come cheap! Don't install that ignition switch .... unless you know for certain that your old one is bad. Once you install it, even if you discover you don't need a new switch because your old one is fine, the dealership will not take the part back. Electrical parts are not returnable if you've installed them, and in some cases even if you took them out of their packaging! My suggestion, unless your dad is a licensed mechanic, or a very good backyard mechanic, would be to get the car to a good independent mechanic and have him trace down the issue. This is a common issue that mechanics run across every week.

ml30306, Without the nav package yours will be even simpler to do. Don't worry about getting the correct connectors to match up, as they are all different, and the harnesses will only go back together one way. You can't get them mixed up, even if you tried. Put the tranny in first gear, turn the car off, and pull the fuses I described in the last post. Then pry the plastic surround, and its pretty easy from there. Have a magnetic screwdriver or pickup tool handy, in case you drop a screw/bolt down into the opening. Take your time and you'll do all right. Good Luck!

How did you test the battery? the Alternator?the Starter? If they were all fine, then either the starter fuse/relay/solenoid, the ignition switch, the fusible link are bad, or your battery cables to the starter, etc., are broken/corroded, or the security system has shut the system down. There are a multitude of things that could cause this issue, even a mouse making a nest in the bottom of your fuse box Been there myself). You need a good independent mechanic to track down the problem.

ml30306, I know of the es330, as my wife's last Lexus was the same year and model, hers with the navigation system. That aside, the center surround that encircles the nav/radio/hvac systems just pops out as it is pried along its sides. Once off, it gives access to the screws/bolts that hold the 3 system components. Once the screws/bolts are removed each section can be pulled out enough to reach their backs and unclip their wiring harnesses, and then remove them. That leaves you with a massive opening in the dash in which to explore and find your rattle. Remove the fuses (as a precaution) for each of the radio/nav/hvac and drive the car as before to track down the culprit. If there is no culprit, it most likely was one of the harnesses you removed, so when putting everything back into the dash, wrap each connector with some foam packing and tape. Hope this helps! Search YouTube for radio/hvac replacements on similar cars (Camry's/ etc) to see what I mean by prying the surround off, etc. They're all pretty much the same. Good Luck!

xraevision, I found, after some searching, that your problem is not uncommon, but very few mechanics will have any experience with it. The Camry V6 for that same generation ES300 uses a hydraulic system to turn the radiator fan, and its powered from the Power Steering pump. Your car will be the same, as the ES is basically a gussied up Camry. Either the impeller blades or the bearings inside the radiator fan are worn, or there isn't enough power steering fluid pressure getting to the radiator fan. That narrows the search somewhat. Either your power steering fluid is down, or the solenoids that allow the fluid flow to the rad fan are defective (a broken wire/ corroded connection/plugged fluid line?). If you can find an independent mechanic who is familiar with the Camry hydraulic fan system, that may be the way to go. Otherwise, from what I've found on Google, some owners have simply scrapped the hydraulic system, and installed the electric fan components from a wrecked 97 Camry V6/ 97 ES300, or gone with an after market electrical fan setup. Good Luck!

bigbill.32, Have you checked to see if you have front ball joints that have gone bad?

tommy, To replace both headlights is MAJOR dollars, and a last resort. You live in a high humidity environment in Oregon, and its not a surprise that you are having this issue. I've seen it often enough where I live (the Great lakes region of Southern Ontario, Canada= high humidity at times). There is an easy fix, but it may not be permanent, and may have to be done a time or two every other year. It really comes down to how well your head light bulb sockets seal, after you get the humidity cleaned out of them. What I have done in the past, is to remove the headlights from the car (fairly easy to do, if you are used to wrenching on cars). Once on the work bench, I have drained the bulk of the water from each individual light bulb region by turning it up side down and shaking it. If you can rig up a small amount of paper towel on the end of a straightened coat hanger, you can sop up any remaining excess. Lastly, rig up a hair drier (not a heat gun) with a small diameter paper tube (make one up) to force air into each bulb region one after another, until all of the condensation is removed. This may take some time, and patience, but it is doable. Once everything is absolutely dry inside the entire headlight body, give the unit time to adopt the same termperature as its surroundings. If no condensation appears, reinstall the headlight in the car. You may find that you have to repeat the job in a years' time, may be not. But it still beats the several hundred dollars a new set of lights will cost you. After all, you may find that you have to deal the car in 6 months time anyway. Good Luck!

sweetchick79, You've done everything I would have done to this point. However, when you keep blowing fuses, then you have a dead short in the system to the rear tail lights that must be tracked down. And that may mean pulling the inside trim panels/carpet/seats for the side of the car that the main harness travels, to up under the dash on the driver's side and the main fuse panel. I suspect it will be on the driver's side. Somewhere along the way, there may be a worn through spot on the main harness and the wires have shorted to the car body. That may also be the case somewhere up the driver's kick panel to the fuse panel. Then again, the issue may be from there to the main fuse panel in the engine compartment. At this stage you may have gone as far as you can at diagnosing the problem, and a good independent mechanic or a shop specialising in automotive electrics is needed. I don't want to scare you, but a mouse found its way into my diesel dually's engine compartment last year, and it took $860 to correct the no start /security system issue. Fourteen chewed wires under the fuse box was the problem. $750 was the labour cost of tracing down the problem. Good Luck!

babstb, That's a tough call to make, but regardless ... because its a Lexus it will be expensive if you go to the dealership for a fix. A good independent mechanic who works on all makes, including Toyota Camry's (basically the ES330's baby brother), may be able to get to the bottom of the issue. Maybe not, if its an issue that requires Lexus parts. Your unit may have a bad control module (buttons for passenger side heat/cooling), or a bad actuator motor that opens and closes the heater box doors to the passenger side. Then again the door hinge could be broken. The problem is that a lot of this is hidden behind the dash and is a bit** to get at (read time consuming /costs dollars). The simple fix may be that a RESET has to be done on the HVAC system (like rebooting a computer), and that usually takes less than 10 minutes. Without more to go on, its too hard to tell what the fix will be, or how much it'll cost. Maybe an independent can fix it, and the cost will be minimal. Then again, maybe he can't, and then you'll still need to go to a dealership to add their costs onto that. Good Luck!

rowekmr, You could use a smaller wire wheel that you spin up in a drill or drill press. They'll do the same job, just not as quickly. Wear safety glasses, as a thrown wire can take out an eye. Good Luck!

rowekmr, I live in the rust belt of southern Ontario, Canada, and I've seen the same issues over the years on all makes and models of cars. The rusted slide pins I always clean up with the wire brush wheel on my bench grinder. I also have a long, small diameter wire brush that I mount on my speed drill for cleaning up the slide pin bores in the caliper. Then apply the silcone brake grease to the pin, as well as a liberal amount on the rubber boot the pin slides through. That rubber/plastic end ring of the slide pin can be left off it it becomes an issue, or you can visit the dealership for a new one if you wish. I've never had an issue with the ones I left off. Now the caliper pistons are a different matter. If you're having a problem pushing them back into the caliper bore even with a C clamp, then they need to be popped out of the caliper and cleaned up with fine steel wool (0000 four aught steel wool), and do the same for the caliper bore. After cleaning and flushing both with clean brake fluid, if you see any pits in the piston or the bore .... replace the caliper. If they clean up well with no pits, then they can be inserted back into the caliper. It is a finicky job you can do by hand, and there is a slick way to get the dust seal over the piston to reseat it in the bore using an air gun and a compressor (look for YouTube vids there are several showing the air gun method). Of course this is best accomplished with the calipers removed from the car. Once mounted again, and the system is bled with new brake fluid, and you still have a long pedal travel ... replace the rubber flex lines, because they may be swelling as you press the pedal. Remember that there will be two more flex hoses on the rear wheels. Again, none of this is rocket science, are there are loads of videos to watch to help you out. Just remember when bleeding each wheel, to immediately pump the brakes back up before you take that test drive, or back out of the driveway. Good Luck!

nmlexusguy, You don't need the part numbers. Go to any auto parts store that has automotive bubble pack stands with plastic and metal fasteners on turn stiles. Compare one of your originals with the Toyota section and they'll be there in packs of 2/5/10 depending on their size. Most automotive parts suppliers have a very good selection for just about any fastener you can imagine.

shushdior, You may have, or may not have done some serious damage to the engine. Only time will tell, and until enough has gone by without any indications, you would be best advised to watch that temperature gauge very closely and keep your speed down. You are driving a 20 year old car. When was the last time you had the coolant flushed and the radiator checked out for clogging, etc.? I would certainly start there. As well, rebleed the system again with the nose of the car on a good incline, to allow for any air pockets to bubble out of the engine block and climb to the top of the rad. Good Luck and watch the temp gauge!

davies14, I seem to recall, from posts here over the years, that similar tranny issues were cured by reflashing the computer. Obviously a trip to the dealership would be necessary, as I doubt any other shop will have the software. Either that or you have faulty shift solenoids, or other internal tranny issues that need addressing. My advice would be to take to a Lexus dealer for a diagnosis, before anything more causes a more expensive fix. Good Luck!

gamma, That mileage on a properly cared for Lexus is not a concern. As far as the clunk when putting the car in gear is concerned ..... take the car to a good independent mechanic you trust and have him check it out. It may be the best $50 you have ever spent, to either confirm you are buying a great car, or avoiding buying a money pit. Good Luck!

hans2112, Toyota/lexus trannies are pretty bullet proof, unless the car hasn't been properly maintained or its been beaten to death. Tranny failures are rare. If you spring for the car, swap in an exact replacement from the same generation ES. Be prepared to steal the car for the absolute lowest price you can, because buying a used tranny, or a rebuilt one, and then paying to have it installed is going to be costly. DO SOME HOMEWORK and find out exactly what it'll cost you before you even consider buying the car. Now, here's the sticky part .... the owner tells you the tranny has a crack in it. Is it driveable? If not, you are buying a pig in a poke. There may be all kinds of other nightmares that exist that you can't check out because the car is undriveable. Are you sure this is the wisest purchase you can make?

pakaplan, It may be just coincidence that both systems indicate a problem, then again, maybe not. But for sure, check out the oil level situation first before you drive the car anywhere! Check the oil level. If its up, then trace down the oil pressure switch (see pic) and see if the wiring connection is clean, if not clean it. If that doesn't fix the issue, buy a new oil pressure switch (cheap) and install it. If you still have the issue, you best get the car to a mechanic you trust, as the oil pump may need replacing. Keep your fingers crossed! As for the tail light lamp indicator, ........ track down all of the rear lamps (license plate and back up lights, turn signals, all of them, not just the brakes and parking lights). Check all bulbs and connectors, and the harnesses. If that doesn't find the culprit, it could be the sensor that signals that dash light, and if so .... you may be off to the mechanic again.

msbee, No one is going to give you any advice here because from your description ....its just too difficult to give you an answer. The guys who are mechanically inclined and do all of their own repairs, have another ride or two, and have the tools and a place to do the work, ... and have the cash on hand ....well, they'll tell you to go ahead and fix it. The people without the knowledge and experience and cash, etc., will hold off saying anything because they aren't sure themselves what they would do. Myself, I'm a backyard mechanic, and I'd go for it. But, I don't want to encourage you to spend the cash and have it come back to bite you. You may well not be in the position to take that kind of financial hit if it goes badly. I'm sorry, but most of us would say that this is a call you'll have to make yourself, because the outcome isn't a sure thing. I hope it all works out for you. Good Luck!

jw1313, CD players read the CD with a single laser. If the CD is playing correctly and the music is accurate, it suggests to me that there is a circuitry or software issue with the player that is beyond the average person to correct, and the unit will require a service tech to fix or replace the entire unit. Either remove the unit and take to an audio repair shop, or get a replacement unit from a wrecker or the dealership.

lexanta, Dealerships vary as to when they fix any of the problem areas they discover on a trade in. They will always ensure that the car is safe to drive, brakes, tires, wipers, etc., but the bad fitting door panel, small stain on the seat, etc., is different. Some dealerships will fix all of these issues before they put them on the lot, hoping to make the car look as perfect and draw a higher dollar. Other dealers, will only do the cosmetic issues after you show your interest, and point out to them what you want corrected. In this case, they're hoping you won't find them all (if they're even aware of them themselves.) What it comes down to is that it costs more money for them to certify the car, than it does to sell it without the certification because their services guys have to go through an actual Lexus checklist and verify the 150 different things that have to be looked at. So expect to pay more for the certification. Test drive the car and inspect it carefully. Only you can decide whether having the certification is worth it to you.

louc, Yes, the jacking point is dead center on the ES, just in about a foot from the edge of the nose. You'll see a dropped down domed section of the subframe that is the jacking point, and yes, my floor jack slides under there with no problems. As far as jack stand points, once the car nose is in the air, I use the squared off side rails that drop down from the firewall, just behind the front suspension, but in about a foot from the side of the car. The rear jacking point is a drop down rounded section dead center of the car, right where the rear differential would be if this wasn't a front drive vehicle. Its quite far in from the back bumper, but is purpose built for jacking. As for rear jack points I use the brackets that hold the lower suspension links in front of the rear wheels. They're sturdy enough to support the weight. As I stated in my previous post, should you run across a car that is too low for the floor jack, just drive the wheels up on some short 2x6 scraps of wood, and then slide the jack under. Works like a charm.

louc, For years I used ramps, and then the manufacturers started lowering the cars to the point that they are useless today. If you are into doing your own oil changes and brake jobs, or more, bite the bullet and purchase a reasonably priced floor jack and 4 (or just two if the budget is tight) jack stands. I have 6 vehicles that I service regularly for oil changes, brake jobs and just about any repairs that I feel qualified to to tackle. The floor jack lifts them all, from the wife's ES350 (dead center under the nose is a jacking point), my Subaru OutBack (again dead center just under the nose), the GMC dually (side frame each side up front), to the 1990 300ZX (center cross member just in front of the oil pan, after driving the front wheels up on 2x6's so the jack will fit under neath the nose). Even on a gravel driveway you can use one, just put it on a 2x12 plank before you start jacking. And then PUT THE JACK STANDS UNDER THE FRAME POINTS to ensure that you'll be safe when working under the car.

talvinder, Most common repair/maintenance issues on an ES are the same as on a Camry of the same generation. The cars are pretty bullet proof if you take care of them. But would I suggest any one buying their first car to buy a used Lexus? Not unless they have access to the funds to make some expensive repairs if they become necessary, or have a mechanic friend/family member who can help keep the costs down. The Camry would be the better buy. For example: if the ES has the terrain following headlights and it quits working, the tiny variable switch running the system on the passenger rear suspension costs over $600, and only Lexus can get the part. (I fixed ours with a used one on eBay for $150). If the car has the powered foot pedals and the accelerator pedal position sensor goes south, Lexus will not sell you just the sensor. You must buy a complete powered pedal assembly at about $1000. And it will cost about $500 to pull the dash and the steering column to get the old assembly out. I have been there as well, but I swapped out the sensor from the new assembly without changing anything else. (Anyone want to buy a powered pedal assembly minus the APPS?) If it is to be your first car, you don't have the dollars to spend on fixing a Lexus. Buy a Camry, Corolla, or a Honda instead. Then again, maybe daddy has deep pockets and will jump in. Just saying! Good Luck!

I agree with 1990ls400 solution 100%. Typically fog lights and parking sensors are all mounted in the bumper covers before the covers are installed on the car. Bumper covers are easy to remove, a lot of plastic plugs and one or two screws or bolts. Be sure to place masking tape around the edges of the headlights and the grill and fender seams (where the bumper cover mates to them) to prevent any paint scratches when you reassemble the cover to the car. Then remove the tape. As for reattaching the sensor, a little clear silicone around its barrel before you push it back into the sensor mounting surround should secure it. Be aware that the silicone takes 24 hours to fully cure.