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PeterE, This link to eBay may be just what you want. Its available now. Check out its two pictures and description. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/96-2002-Toyota-camer-Ignition-Module-Lexus-ES300-89621-35020-OEM-/252512043039?hash=item3acae4001f:g:-uwAAOSwMNxXby6w&vxp=mt

Daiastacio, On the wiring harness to the radio, check the pins with a test light, the red and black. Test light should go on if the ignition is on. If not, check your fuse panel for any listed as radio/amplifier. If you have power there, then the problem is in the connector at the radio, or the radio itself. Basically test to make sure you have 12 volts going to the radio when the ignition is on. If there isn't, you have some searching to do. Are you sure you have the correct Pioneer to Lexus sub harness, because if the wire colours don't match on both sides of the connectors the radio won't work. Good Luck!

Ashley, The arrow points to its location on a 98 ES, which should be the same as yours, and the small grey picture in the lower left corner, shows what you are looking for, the PCV valve. Easy to change, but hiding under a few things in the way. Good Luck!

Austin, I have no experience with the panoramic roof system, but lots with the single a dual sunroof setups on many makes of cars. Looking at your picture, locate the attachment points for the rear section to see if the brackets that attach to the glass (glued) have a bolt or two that have come loose and are rattling over rough roads ("macadam" I haven't heard anyone use that word in many years). The long arms to the front section may be the largest culprit. Chances are that with the front section open, those spring loaded arms will vibrate and move, causing the noise. There may not be a cure, but check to see if any fasteners at each end of those arms are loose.

Austin, Glad to hear that your new ride has impressed you and yours! Driving my wife's ES always puts a smile on my face too. As for the TPMS light, It could be that one of your tires is down on pressure. Bringing all tires up to pressure may do the trick and shut off the warning light, but it usually takes a short drive over 25 mph to trigger it off if everything is correct. Sometimes even that won't turn the light off, and you have to trick the system. Take all of the tires up to 40 psi, and drive until it triggers off. Then drop all tire pressures back down to the required pressure on the driver's door sticker. As for the AFLS error light, first ensure that both front lights work (or replace the burned out one) and that their connectors are properly attached and not corroded. Once both lights are working, park the car close to a wall at dark and turn the lights on and start the car. Both headlights should sweep up and down and then settle to a middle height. If this happens, both headlight motors are working correctly. If you still have AFLS warning light, then the sensor that tells the motors to move the lights up and down may be at fault. Crawl under the rear passenger side wheel and look at its suspension link arms. On one of them is a small rod on a swing joint that goes straight up to a small rotating sensor switch on a bracket attached to the floor of the car. As the car suspension goes over undulations on the road, the suspension movement moves the rod up and down, moving the contacts inside the sensor to trigger the headlights up or down to keep the headlights out of the eyes of oncoming drivers. If the sensor wiring connector is corroded, the sensor itself defective, or the rod is disconnected, the headlights won't move to follow the terrain, hence the warning light on the dash. If that sensor is bad, find a used one, as a new one is just over $600 in Canada. eBay is where I found the one for my wife's last ES for $150. Good Luck!

LexusRocking, I've been where you are now and I can tell you that it'll be hit or miss going anywhere but the dealership for a new fob and proper programing. I have researched this issue for quite some time through many forums, and the only sure way to guarantee any fob you buy and program will work 100% is through the dealership. To that end, I have copied part of a previous post of mine on the Lexus ES300 forum of this message board, rather than rewrite it all again. "Now roll ahead 6 years to my Bride's new ES350, a 2011, which is now push button start, and has a key fob transmitter. She loses the plastic part of the key fob in year two, but still has the emergency key section on her key ring. A search shows that the key fobs are available online, but even those who take it to a Lexus dealership can't get them programmed correctly in some cases. Some do, some don't. The result is, buy one online for $100 or so, have the dealership program it for $75 and then maybe find out it won't work, only to have to then buy a new one from Lexus and have it programmed to the tune of $300 or so. So we just broke down and purchased a new one from Lexus, instead of trying the aftermarket route on the off chance it might work. So, what I'm saying is that you can get your generation key cut and it will work, but there are no guarantees with the two latest generation ES's."

Austin, Congratulations on your "new to you" ride! Toyota makes great cars, and their Lexus models are particularly so. Good to have a new perspective from your side of the world. Keep her shiny side up! Gene

ou1, You've hit on your solution ....... take the car to a good independent mechanic who is familiar with Camry's, the ES's baby brother. The solution is beyond your capabilities. A P0171 code has many things that could cause this issue. Throwing parts and money at a problem that hasn't been properly diagnosed in the first place just doesn't make sense, as you've already seen in this case. Do some internet research for the issue, or see several knowledgeable mechanics and pick their brains before tackling any car problem. When all sources concur on the fix, then go ahead with the parts route and DIY if so inclined, otherwise let the professionals deal with it. It will cost you less in the long run. Good Luck!

lexususer07, I wouldn't think that 75 000 miles on a 10 year old car was a lot of miles. One owner, well maintained, reasonably priced, what else do you need? There are no major issues to watch out for on these models. ES 350's are just gussied up Camry's and both are about as bullet proof as a car can get. If the inspection works out fine ... buy it!

Will00, I read your post yesterday and didn't think of any possible fix that came to mind. Today one thing comes to mind, but its a guess. First off, your tranny issue may not be related to the half axle shaft replacement at all. Sometimes shi* just happens. That said, there is nothing related to the tranny's ability to go into reverse that's tied to the half axle ..... unless you messed up the ABS sensor on that wheel, and its lack of signal is feeding back to the computer in some way. I'd take a close look at the sensor and its wiring at that wheel. Other than that, you may just have a bad tranny solenoid that works when the fluid is cold and the viscosity is thicker, but doesn't work when the fluid heats up and thins out. I suggest you need a good mechanic to read the tranny codes to get to the bottom of the issue. That and .... is your tranny fluid up to level?

saturation, Yes, they gave you a bunch of bullsh**, but ... some of what they say is gosphel. My Brides last ES330 (a 2003) had the same issue as you. I purchased a blank key/shell because one of her originals had simply fallen apart. The swap was uneventful, but I still required the new key blank to be cut. We have no Lexus dealership locally, and our local Toyota dealer wouldn't touch it, claiming they had no access to anything from Lexus, which is true. I tried two different upscale locksmith companies, both saying they couldn't help me. I then went to my local Honda dealership, and armed with the key code from my owner's manual, they cut the blank for me, without charge, afraid that it wouldn't work but they were willing to try. When I took it home, the key fit in the ignition, but would not turn. I then compared the key to our remaining original and discovered that it was cut correctly .... but was too long by almost a quarter inch. I ground its length back with a Dremmel tool and it worked perfectly. Now roll ahead 6 years to my Bride's new ES350, which is now push button start, and has a key fob transmitter. She loses the plastic part of the key fob in year two, but still has the emergency key section on her key ring. A search shows that the key fobs are available online, but even those who take it to a Lexus dealership can't get them programmed correctly in some cases. Some do, some don't. The result is, buy one online for $100 or so, have the dealership program it for $75 and then maybe find out it won't work, only to have to then buy a new one from Lexus and have it programmed to the tune of $300 or so. So we just broke down and purchased a new one from Lexus, instead of trying the aftermarket route on the off chance it might work. So, what I'm saying is that you can get your generation key cut and it will work, but there are no guarantees with the two latest generation ES's.

veedo, As I stated in my previous post, get the inner door panel off, and the weather seal, and then look around. Many things become obvious then. Is the cable broken? Can you jump 12 volts to the motor pins directly and the motor works? Reverse the 12 volt wires, does it work the other direction? Is the wiring connector to the motor corroded and just needs cleaning? Pull the rubber gaiter at the door hinge that the door wiring is in. Are any of the wires broken? Fix them and what happens? Pull the switch and spray its seams with electrical contact cleaner and cycle it several times. Test it after the fluid evaporates (5 minutes). My guess is the switch, the wiring or the motor. If the culprit can't be fixed as suggested, put in a used one from a wrecking yard. Take your old one with you, because one from a Camry of the same year may be able to be substituted, and will be cheaper to buy. Good Luck!

marc5868, You most likely are not going to get the answer you're looking for here. There are very few wrenchers on this forum. I follow 12 different forums daily for each of the cars I own, and this car forum has the fewest people who actually work/wrench on their vehicles. Part of that being that almost no one has access to the factory service manuals for Lexus vehicles. Lexus doesn't even allow their Toyota dealerships to have access to Lexus services and parts. And to buy one is $600 plus. That said, from years of working on my vehicles, I think you are on the right track. If you drive to a large vacant parking lot, turn off the car and pull one of the fuses at a time, and drive slowly and brake to test the result, you may be able to narrow down the issue. You may find that one fuse over the other, or both need to be removed. Be prepared, however, that several other functions may not work as well. You most likely will lose Traction Control, as well as Cruise Control with the ABS pump disconnected from the system. The transmission may also put the engine into "Limp Mode", meaning that you will only accelerate very slowwwwwwwwwwwwly and it will take forever to get to 50 mph. Basically the car will refuse to allow you to get going fast enough to get in an accident with the ABS disabled. If this should happen, turn off the car, and disconnect the negative battery connection for 5 to 10 minutes. That should reset the Engine Computer and turn off the Check Engine Light. Then again, you may have to replace the two fuses you removed, and then do the computer rest procedure. I don't believe that you'll hurt anything, trying this, just be sure that you have the space to do so and do so slowly so that the car doesn't get away from you. If you have any doubts, get the car to a good independent mechanic who is used to working on Camry's, because the Camry is the Es's baby brother and basically the same car with less options and a smaller price tag. Good Luck!

sdapana, My wife's last ES had the same separation issue, but only slightly so, but in the same location. It wasn't sufficiently ugly enough for us to take any action on it, and certainly wasn't an issue for the people who bought the car when we traded up to her present 2011. That said, I can't believe that your dealership could be sooooo unprofessional as to not take a stand on the air bag's reliability. Your air bag is fine. Its a separate unit, bolted to the dash subframe and is entirely separate from the dash pad. The air bag sits right underneath the padded dash, and when ignited, blows up through the dash knocking out the section in your photograph. Your dash pad has just had too much sun and heat and has started to shrink and crack along the thinned out seam through which the air bag would explode. Not to worry. You air bag still works, but your dash pad will not get any better in appearance. You'll either have to live with its looks, its going to shrink even more over time, or spend lots of bucks for a dash top replacement, if they are even available anymore. On top of that will be the labour dollars to remove and then install the new one. Your car is 13 years old. Do you really want to spend $1500 or more to replace the dash top? You might consider one of those dash pad covers that accessory companies sell. They're made specifically to cover older cracked dash pads. Check out this link for instance: http://dashcare.com/i-136874-dash-cover-lexus-es-300-330-2002-2006.html

Tobise Gold, The FIRST thing to check with anything electrical that goes wrong in the car is the fuse for that item, in this case the radio fuse, and there may be more than one. Check your owner's manual for the charts that show where they are located and their fuse size.

armcomdes, Your system may have one of two issues causing it. The first is easy, just pull the HVAC fuse, or disconnect the battery for 20 minutes or so. Either one will reset the HVAC computer to factory specs and things should work as normal IF ... the door actator on the driver's side hasn't died or the door itself become jammed/broken. The second fix, as I alluded to above, involves tearing apart a good chunk of the center console in some cars, in order to get at the HVAC air box and its related actuator motors and wiring harnesses. At this point you'll need to decide whether to try a fix yourself, or leave it to a good independent mechanic (who'll be cheaper than a Lexus tech). Good Luck!

armcomdes, I haven't had to do this fix on any of our Lexus models , but had two Subaru's that did. The subies was a simple fix because of the shape of the shields, fitting close to the front resonator and covering part of the exhaust pipe as well. I simply put a larger exhaust clamp right around the heat shield at the pipe entering the resonator, and clamped the heat shield right to the resonator. Problem solved for the next 3 years until trade time. The ES muffler shields are different, much wider area coverage, and not as close to the muffler. A down and dirty fix would be to use plumber's strapping (comes in a roll with lots of holes in it. Cut off a section long enough to go between the trunk floor and the heat shield, and then down around the muffler and back up to the strap again. Pull it tight to force the heat shield to collapse onto the muffler, and tighten the ends together with a long bolt and nut. To keep it looking less obvious, position the strapping as far forward on the muffler as possible to do the job, but still not be seen from the rear of the car, if possible. The only other sure way to silence the rattle is a new heat shield and mounting bolts, because yours have rusted off. Good Luck!

Lexus09ES, You may be biting off a big (read expensive) chunk to do the switch from halogens to HID's. While halogen bulbs run $15 each, the Hid's are twice that, but have to be matched with a HID ballast and wiring harness that run $70 each. And will the standard wiring harness in your car plug into the ballast? Is there even room to mount the ballast behind the headlight assembly, or do you have to have a whole different headlight assembly for them to fit.? And then you'll have the motorized headlights that won't be motorized because you won't have the harness to the rear suspension and the sensor that tells the lights to move, and on and on. I'm not trying to scare you off, but you need to do some research before you start spending money and get disappointed. Check the parts and pricing on eBay to see what I'm referring to. My wife's ES350 has the Adaptive Front Lighting System and HID's, and they work well, but I'm not certain that I'd be willing to make the change over from halogens just to get it.

BKDASCH, A search of your issue has three areas that show as a possible cause. The car has two knock sensors, and if either one goes bad it puts the tranny into limp mode, effectively locking out overdrive. Another possible cause is a bad engine computer. New ones are $1200, used about half that, and some places can refurbish your old one for about $450. The last one I found suggests that the speedometer speed sensor has gone south. What it really needs to be impressed on you is that you need an accurate diagnosis done, to nail down the actual culprit. Don't throw parts at the problem hoping for a cure, only to waste time and money. Get the car to a good mechanic who works on Camry's and Lexus models (doesn't have to be a Lexus dealer) and see if they can pull any codes that point at a solution. From what I've found in searching, I'm convinced that you don't need a new tranny, but you need to track down the bug preventing the shift to OD. Good Luck!

Mary B, You are most welcome!

Mary B, My Bride's ES350 has the same light tan coloured seats and you have to stay on top them. Don't let them get too dirty before you get after them. Use good products by Mothers or MaGuiars, etc., and forget the cheaper stuff by Turtle Wax, etc. Generally there is a cleaner you use first and rub it in with a cloth or a natural bristle brush with fine bristles (or use a natural bristled paint brush that you cut the length of the bristles back to about an inch long with scissors to stiffen them up without being abrasive.). Then wipe the leather clean with micro fibre cloths. They also have a leather moisturizer/softener that you rub into the leather with your hands, and then wipe off the excess with another micro fibre cloth. Keeps the leather supple. Get that California Dash duster for the door panels, center console and the dash. It really speeds the cleanup to just next to nothing. Enjoy your new toy, and feel sad for all the others who don't have a Lexus in their driveway.

Mary B, You are not telling the truth! Someday you may move up to a more expensive Lexus model, and you'll love it even more! They are fabulous cars, and they make you feel good behind the wheel. There is nothing classier than a black car, but they are a bit** to keep clean. HINT: Go to an auto parts store and buy the original "California Car Duster". Its an 18 inch long mop with a foot long wooden or plastic handle. Its long stringy mop is impregnated with a special wax that attracts dirt like a magnet, and simply lifts it from the car body as you sweep it across the paint and glass. It'll leave some wax marks on the body the first 3 or 4 times you use it, (wipe it off with a micro fiber cloth), but from then on its streak free. I've had mine for 20 years now, and it even works better now when its dirty, than when it was new. I have several antique cars, one in black, and regardless of how long its sat in the garage, in less than two minutes I can wipe it down with the California Car Duster and its fabulous. As well, get the California Dash Duster, much smaller and triangular shaped, to do the interior of the car, if its a dark colour. You can wipe down and lift the dust from the interior in less than a minute, the entire inside! And, no, I don't work for the company, just a retired old fa** who loves cars. Congratulations on your new ride!

Cecil, Pretty easy to verify, with the 10 digit number that embossed right on the side of the coil over plug, as shown in your picture.

Kevin C., Your mechanic doesn't know Toyota/Lexus transmissions ....... you need a better mechanic, but not necessarily a Lexus tech, and have to pay through the nose. A search for your issues shows that the tranny has an issue. Its trouble codes need to be read correctly for the diagnostic. The fix may be as simple as replacing some internal solenoids, which is a DIYer for someone with some wrenching experience, but not rocket science. Don't let anyone talk you into any repairs until you get the proper codes read and then go from there. It may be a relatively cheap fix. To see what I'm referring to, do a Google search for "93 Lexus ES300 flashing OD light" and read several posts and their resultant fixes. Good Luck!

Cecil, Toyota (Lexus) numbers their V6 engine cylinders thusly: Pasenger side firewall #1, middle firewall #3, Driver side firewall #5 Passenger side grill #2, middle grill #4, Driver side grill #6 As for the original coil markings, I suspect they would look older and would be marked Denso (too many years and several cars since I had an ES300).