VJZ

For those with crappy range: Take off your cover of your key and look in the lower left corner by the circuit board. There will be a blob of solder. Most of he time it is cracked and needs to be resoldered. Do that and get a new battery and you should be good from 60 feet on in, Worked like night and day for me.

Only the later model 2JZ engines were interference. As far as I knew thats what it was. ClubLexus has that as well.

Actually it still does cut power with the traction turned off. Any ideas? Do i just have to drive it for 20 minutes or so to reset itself?

I took off the sensor directly to the left of the IDLE SPEED CONTROL sensor and now the TRAC light is on. To top that off when you hit the gas, it bogs down the engine such as if you had no traction. If you turn off the traction, everything is fine, but the TRAC light is on. What is the problem? Will this be costly for just taking off the sensor? Before taking it off everything was perfectly fine.

Is there an easy way to make any of these fit?

I have been reading up on various ways to convert your 92-94 cornering lights to fog lights. I realize that by doing the "conversion" on intellexual, you aren't actually making a fog light, just keeping the lights on. On ebay, there are various fog lights that came out of the JDM Soarer and were imported through JHot and companies as such. According to Intellexual, the 95-96 fog lights won't fit the 92-94 bumper. Will the JDM fog lights fit? If so, which ones (Links below)? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Toyota-...1QQcmdZViewItem or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Toyota-...1QQcmdZViewItem or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Toyota-...1QQcmdZViewItem

I didn't really find much in a search here though. My upper radiator hose will collapse when the car isn't running for a while. After it heats up, the hose looks like normal. Could the hose just be weak and in need of replacement?

I had the same situation on my old 1990 Celica with a 5SFE. The A/C system hadn't been used in years and was low on freon. After recharging, it would overheat. It ended up being my radiator.

Get a K&N Drop in filter on your SC. Some will say it doesn't do anything for the car, but I noticed a two MPG difference over my stock one, which was also new. The thing I like about the K&N filter is that you can reuse them. It's worth it in the long run. I also like the K&N oil filter. Plus you get free stickers to put on your car....because we all know that stickers add horsepower! ^_^ ^_^ ^_^

I use that stuff in every single car I own. It's incredible. Do it right before you change your oil as to avoid it eating any seals (may be possible). Run it through your gas and everything. Great stuff.

Probably so. Although I had that done on my 1990 Celica GT and never got stopped. Yet, it was tinted enough where you can still see the red through the tint.

Put this in the RX Forum?

Do you have the cup holder in the middle of the center console? If so, does it open and close properly? How much would you like for it. I just broke mine :(

My problem is that most places won't remove a cat. Here in Indiana, we do not have emissions testing and since the car is registered and titled in Indiana, there cannot be a citation issued in another state for lack of emissions equipment. I only want a slightly louder tone than stock, which is why I am keeping the stock mufflers. I'd like to gut the cats, remove the resonator, and then leave the mufflers alone. Tone should increase a bit. Would fuel economy increase at all or decrease? I'm getting just under 20 MPG, but I still need to do a tune up and put my OEM rims back on for the winter/school year (Commuting).

So can you gut the cats without the light coming on?

I have been thinking of gutting the cats and removing the resonators, but leaving the stock muffler. Or maybe gutting the cats and leaving the resonator. Either way I'll leave the stock mufflers. Will gutting the cats set off the check engine light, make the car run weird, or get worse mileage?

Some places can redo the cover for you. You can also spend $8 at Wal-Mart and get a nice cover too.

Also, what about the bolts/nuts on the muffler and tail pipe assembly. It seems that the back of the studs are welded to the pipe. Is there a way to get these out with the ability to reconnect them?

Does anyone have any sound clips of a completely stock exhaust minus the mufflers? Basically, just separating the muffler from the rest of the system

What is the best method for removing the bottom screw on the idle control valve?

The SC can be an expensive car to own. Even considering myself a reasonably knowledgeable car guy, I still have questions about specific stuff with this car. So far since I have purchased it, the AC stopped working, the heater control valve went out, and the passenger side door doesn't open now. Other than that, it's a great car. Not terrible on gas, but could be better.

I swapped the vacuum hoses on the round dome (I think the HCV?) and the heat instantly was working. What is the problem?

I ran the diagnostics test and came up with code 21 and code 23 (flashing and beeping on the climate control screen). Code 21 is apparently for the solar sensor and 23 for the pressure switch circuit, correct? If so, what do I need to do to fix this problem. I NEED heat, but my AC isn't a priority at this point.

My AC has been out for a while and is some underlying problem with the compressor. However, tonight I tried using the heat and when set to 83 degrees, it still blows cool air like the outside temperature is. What's the first place to start to get an answer for this?

If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it.