landar

It sounds like you have the classic broken wire in the trunk harness issue. It is very common on early LS models. Basically, a wire in the trunk cable leading to the taillights gets broken from the bending that takes place over the years when opening and closing the trunk lid. Do a search on "trunk wiring" and you will see lots of similar issues and fixes. Don't spend any more time replacing socket wiring or whatever.

At least now you know why the previous owner was so happy to sell the car. :D

Try getting a CEL code reading while it is showing. That is your best way of tracking down this issue. However, I am afraid that you are ultimately doomed. The gods have noticed that you spent some $$$ to have her repainted and now that it is looking nice again, little annoying mechanical and electrical issues will plague you. (jk'ing. look for the codes) ^_^

The washing of the engine compartment may have just been coincidental and having nothing to do with it. Being that your car is a '92, are you aware of the very weird issues that arise from the infamous broken trunk cable wiring? It might not be that but...dont know for sure until ruled out. In all honesty, it just sounds to me like you are simply low on transmission fluid.

Now thats a new one on me. I thought you were going to have a simple issue like a child lock turned on, but you are saying the driver's side controls will not operate the other windows. Yet the switch right at each door will operate the local window? I am presuming that the drivers side window is controllable from the drivers side switch? It is very unlikely that all of the master drivers side switches are bad but it is very possible that the wiring is loose or off of those controls or that a central connector feeding those switches has come apart. Wonder if someone was recently into the drivers side door panel?

I would first make sure that you are not marginally low on coolant by viewing the reservoir tank. You could have some air in the system. The thermostat is fairly easy to replace. I would not bother testing it. If you go to the trouble to remove it, just put a new one in (along with a gasket). Also, coolant should be changed every 120km or so (or few years).

This odd operation makes no sense to me unless it is just a bum connection from the radio receiver to wherever it goes. The key fob transmits correctly because the doors do lock/unlock, right. So, it stands to reason that the "trunk open" command is also being transmitted. And probably received fine as well. But somewhere along the line, there has to be a discrete wire or signal (which is "or'd in with the cabin trunk switch) to open the trunk and all indications point to just a bad connection somewhere. I would start by locating the radio receiver and checking the connectors to that unit. Just plug/unplug and wiggle to see if it might start working.

I know nuthing, nuthing atall.Seriously, you left a lot out of the story. Such as why you decided to change the alternator in the first place(PS pump leaking?). The main things to check and double-check...the belt is on and good tension, right? And all connections to the alternator are ok (clean, shiny, tight). Remember there is a rather large positive (+) wire to the alternator. And the alternator MUST be properly grounded. Check those carefully. Make sure that your battery connections are good. Now for the probing question: You did not, by any chance, forget to disconnect the battery before pulling the alternator and saw some sparks, did you? BTW, welcome to the forum!

Finally turned that key last night and....KABOOM! :o just kidding :D She's alive! After sputtering for a few seconds, the engine came to life and ran nicely. We did discover a hose that we had missed reconnecting and had a coolant leak around the thermostat area. Snugging the bolts some more fixed that. At first, the engine did not seem to want to idle so I kept the RPMs in the 2k range to keep from stalling. I took it for a spin around the subdivision and when I got back it began idling correctly. The battery had been disconnected for weeks as we performed surgery so it might have been the computer relearning. Then the heart attack phase. We noticed a lot of steam coming out of the exhaust. Crap. But the engine seemed to running fine, no misses, nothing. So I took it for more driving, all the while keeping an eye on the temp gauge. It was holding perfectly. After a while, the steam quit coming out. I think it might have been leftover coolant in the muffler and exhaust system from before and just need to be super-heated to be expelled. Anyway, thats my theory and I am going with it! :whistles: So, this Lex is back on the road (after a lot of work). whew.

We clearly determined that the #6 cylinder (LH - drivers side cylinder), gasket was blown. I understand that this is the most common one to blow out. A new gasket is installed, new timing belt, water pump, thermostat are all back on. Intake installed along with plenum. Just a few little things to take care of before it is "show" time. Yikes. Soon it will be the moment of truth. Turn the key. Stay tuned... ^_^

NO, but it is for sale, along with my 96 LS400... you need one?? A friend at work is looking for a used 4runner. Too bad we are not closer or he would probably want to take a look. Just like you, we found that in addition to a smoother ride in the Sienna, we could pack a lot more in the van than in the Pilot.

Ha Billy! I just bought a 2010 Toyota Sienna Limited last week. Traded our 2011 Honda Pilot for it. The Pilot was ok but the wife really likes the Sienna much better...less truck-like. We are now an all Toyota family! Did you trade the 4Runner?

Larry, there are actually two cabin filters in the 93/94 LS. There are instructions on Post #7 in this link -> http://www.clublexus...air-filter.html ...and this link may help as well -> http://repairpal.com...-air-filter-172 From these instructions, it looks like the filters are installed side-by-side such that you have to slide the first one up and over to get the second one in (or out). Like batteries in a flashlight. ^_^ ...and finally, remember that most cabin (pollen) air filters have a directional air flow to them so it is important to note the flow of air and install the new filters accordingly.

The clockspring is considered by several manufacturers, if not the NHTSB, to be a critical safety issue. I know Chrysler had a problem with clocksprings on their minivans and would replace it free of charge regardless of the mileage. I would take it to the dealer and do a fair amount of "b_tch_n"(can I buy a vowel, Vanna?) to see if they might replace it low-cost or free as a safety issue.

The oil pressure switch is 83530 in this diagram. It is screwed into the block in the location shown. If you do not feel comfortable replacing it yourself, seek out a mechanic. An oil pressure gauge can be purchased at most auto stores fairly cheap(<$30, most brands would be adequate) and you would remove the existing switch and just screw the gauge into the same hole in the block for a temporary reading. You should not have to drain the oil to do this. Just do NOT start the engine with the oil pressure hole exposed (ie: sans switch or gauge).

Yes! Next check is fuse link. Do you have and know how to use a voltmeter?

Well it most definitely is not 'normal'. However, for a '92 it is not out of the question. The problem typically occurs while the engine is hot and idling. You step on the gas, the RPM's increase(along with the oil pressure) and the light goes off. Usually this condition is the result of an improperly working oil pressure sending unit. Simply replacing the sensor with a new one will solve the problem. I say 'usually'. And if you have lived a clean, honest life, it will be as simple as the oil pressure sensor. If not, there is a remote possibility that it could be a weak oil pump or loose bearing clearances(primarily main bearings). As Billy mentioned, excessive sludge can also clog up the system, restricting oil passages and cause the symptoms ...but, while reported on some V6 Toyota engines, it is not at all common on the the LS V8 engine, especially if the oil has been changed within recommended intervals. If it were mine, I would want to hook up an oil pressure gauge to the system (easy to do) and get an actual oil pressure reading. That will tell you if your problem is simply a faulty sensor or more major issue. Of course, you could also just screw in a new sensor and if that fixes the problem, call it a day.

First off, I would hit the 'reset' button on this diagnosis. So the AAA guy said he thought it "may need an Idle Air Control Motor"? Get a good, qualified mechanic to look at this problem before you go on a potential goose chase.

Cam sprockets are now off, next up is pulling the cams on the LH head and then the head itself. Need to buy a "service bolt" to lock the two gears in the exhaust cam first. Its coming along, slowly.

Larry, take a look at this thread -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66438&st=0&p=419245&hl=++lighter%20++fusible%20++link&fromsearch=1entry419245

Well congrats on the new purchase. Looks really nice. I suppose it is completely rust-free being a TexasTruck.

Billy...it's a Toyota. Need you ask? ^_^ Let us know if you buy it.

Whether or not $14,500 is a good price is strictly up to you. It's certainly not unreasonable. However, I do want to point out that you have one thing "bassackwards". You should make the "post-inspection" with a Lexus specialist a "pre-inspection" ...ie: before you plunk down the cash. Personally, I would have talked them down a grand for the timing belt and water pump. But if you really like the vehicle, the extra $500 is not a big deal. But an inspection by a pro before you actually buy would be a VERY good idea.

Intake manifold is off along with one valve cover. Next job is to remove the timing belt and cams. Gotta remove the cams to get to the head bolts. DOH. Hey....how does this thing go back together? Hello? Helloooooo out there?

So far, I have removed the intake "chamber" (as Toyota calls it...I call it a plenum) and the spark plugs. The one plug is wet with what appears to be coolant. It is cylinder #6 (LH bank) which is the head toward the radiator.