Netg

Ok first I have to complain, the "i'm not a robot" captcha wanted me to click on all images with motorcyles but wouldn't let me through till I clicked the image that was clearly a moped XD Ok seriously now, I got my car back from the shop after doing a t-belt (been there for two weeks) and the car has sat for several months while waiting to get that started, wasn't in a hurry to do it so the car just sat un-driven. So I've had the car for four days and I heard a horn honking a few times but didn't realize it was me...so when I get out I lock the doors and shut them and about a minute later the horn is honking/lights flashing. I’ve locked the doors with the driver door open and pushing the lock button and I’ve unlocked and locked from the outside using the metal key. Either way after a minute it starts going off. It will usually go off two times then not do it again, noticed this while at the parts store, didn't realize it was my car doing it though at the time. Also it's an '06 note; 1. bought it used....key fob starts the car but doesn’t lock/unlock/open anything. 2. been having a bad parasitic draw, if the car sits for 2 days it needs a jumpbox (been driving it all week everyday though so no starting issues) Also on this note, thought I had turned the smartkey off to help diagnose the draw, not sure if that plays in...the draw was #1 on my list of things to solve this weekend but now this alarm issue is 3. brand new car battery 4. I do have the red triangle with “!” and a “low tire” warning (tires aren’t low though) At work or when I am home I can leave it unlocked but when I go other places I need to lock it up but the alarm goes off once or twice. Any ideas?

Is anyone familar enough with these two transmissions (a341 a340) to tell me as to whether the internals are interchangable? I need to rebuild my a341e and I will be utilizing an OEM quality rebuild kit...but if the a340's clutches/etc are the same design, I can get a transmission rebuild kit for a heavier/more powerful car to use for my transmission. I am assuming that the internals of the larger/powerful car would be sligthly stronger at least than what was put into the smaller. I know the casings are not the same, but the a341e has (according to wiki) been used in the LS and the sequoia. The a340 has been used in some large toyota's as well like the 4x4 sequoia, the internals for the a340e and a340f (2wheel 4x4 with t-case) are the same so the casing differences don't seem to matter. Not that I need the externals, just rebuilding the insides ;)

lol I checked this thread first so I was a bit lost..."I don't see a reply here..." ;) But yes that will be checked next...I'm working from easiest, to cheapest, to hardest, to most expensive "things to check"...and that day I couldn't get to the plug. Updates: I've gone ahead and ordered the shop repair manual, wiring diagrams, and transmission repair manual from Lexus (well ebay really) so until they get them in and familiarize myself with the finer workings I won't be able to do more than throw wrenches/parts at the problem, I hate doing that, I always prefer a more organized, logical approach...THEN go to the abstract hitting with a hammer crying like a baby while rocking on the ground in the fetal position wimpering "this can't be happening...this can't be happening"...I try to do that last, I get fewer odd looks if I don't jump to that last step of the diagnostic process. more things to check...hopefully I'll figure it out and help some other poor sap ;)

I've checked and when hot it's a little over full...and the wire harness on the left trunk hinge is fine.

LOL I'm am presently looking up pdf manuals for doing just that :) The selector itself wobbles quit a bit...but when moving through the gear selections it feels like it's moving things properly, but I may just be feeling the detents. Also P, N, and R all engage exactly where they should and disengage where they should; in relation to the shifters position along the track.

I'm having an odd problem. I bought this car not long ago and have already loggged over 12hrs in it. The car was running perfectly, shifting smoothly and promptly. All fluids are in near new state in both color and odor, timing belt and all seals and the water pump have been appropriately replaced. I recently acquired a trouble code 28, I've only heard of o2 sensors causing transmission problems in ford windstar minivans and that was only one case I know of. It is a 92 LS400 with nearly 300k miles. When placed from park to D the rpm's rise to just a tad over 1000 but transmission does not "engage". Revving only increases the rpm's and has no effect on cars lack of motion. I went through all gears (I have done this many times now with same results) and the only noticable rpm changes are when going from park to neutral and drive but here is another oddity; when going into D, 2, or L the rpm's are around 1000, when I put it into Neutral they drop to about 8-900. Reverse works as always. I had lightly sprayed the engine bay with a water (water hose from my house with an attchment that causes the water to spray flattened out horozontally) and then used a rag and spray bottle with water/dish soap mix to clean the engine bay components. I then used the same hose/attatchment to spray off the soap/grease. It was after this the problem began. I have cleared the codes via 20amp fuse removal and neg battery terminal removal several time...the problem persists. The car has also sat overnight, I have experience said issue both cold and warm. Any ideas?

Being a former Toyota mechanic...and posts like yours sir...are reasons why I jumped when I found a 92 LS400. She's giving me a fit right now...but I've never smiled so much driving ANY other car.