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Ralph, usually (not always, but usually), Blue smoke = engine oil burning; White smoke = power steering or coolant, Black smoke = rich gas mixture. So yours falls under the power steering fluid or head gasket. Since you are also losing PS fluid, that would be the logical guess. I am not super familiar with the ES300 power steering system but I understand that there may be tube from the steering system routed into the intake plenum (for vacuum) to make the power steering more sensitive at lower RPM (for ease in steering out of parking spaces). It may be that a valve is leaking and allowing power steering fluid to be sucked into your intake plenum. Read the following thread carefully and decide if this fits your symptoms. It may give you some ideas of where to head next -> http://us.lexusowner...showtopic=51234

Tires. Rotate them and recheck.

Personally, I think it might be gremlins. They can be very devious fellows. So, the rear passenger carpet is soaked but not the front passenger carpet? This *should* be a very easy find. I do not see how water from the A/C gets to the rear w/o also soaking the front. I rule that one out. Then, with no rain, it cannot be outside getting in. It must be something leaking from a container within. As much as you do not think a bottle or cooler or whatever is leaking...it must be. Does the rear carpet get wet on a daily basis or only on a trip? Someone spilled something and is not fessing up.

https://secure.drive...-manual-search# Its under "Gauges, Meters and Service Reminder Indicators " and appears to be a way to cycle through the various mpg and speed settings. No bluetooth that I can see.

Thanks Zett. Very good to know. I have not had the yellowing on my '02 and, quite frankly, did not know that this problem still existed. I know it is common on early 90's cars but thought manufacturers had addressed and fixed the problem. Guess not. I also know from experience that hand polishing is a hard way to go and that a drill or polisher is best for good results. Wonder how long your polishing will last??

Have you ever changed or inspected your cabin filter? A clogged filter will restrict the air flow.

You know Walt, I noticed a pretty good increase in my 98's MPG after I changed my timing belt. Maybe a 1 MPG average increase which I consider very significant. I always attributed it to the new thermostat and a slightly hotter running engine. But I don't know for sure. It was hardly "scientific".

Not sure on this one but Lexus is very fond of using 10mm hex bolts. That is the size used in the rear differential fluid plugs. If you buy a hex socket, I would get the 1/2" drive for the "beefiness".

...and the oil filter is tight and not leaking? Sorry, gotta ask.

I would not be so fast to declare this an "ignition timing problem". You are just guessing there. And forget the MSD adjustable timing control unless you want to really throw a monkey wrench into this mix. You know, of course, that with the 'accelerate by wire' system in the LS430 (Throttle Position Sensor and servo) there is some inherent lag in response. They all do that. I am guessing you mean a really exaggerated hesitation. I would start by looking at the throttle body valve to see if it is dirty and perhaps hanging up.

You did well on the price on an '06. It sounds like the car was well maintained if the timing belt/water pump was already done. To upload pics, you need to select the "More Reply Options" button on the lower right of the browser window. Then, under the Attach files section, click the "choose file" button. Browse to the file you want, then click "upload" and you have it. Finally, just "post" the message. Not hard once you know how. With your "new" Lex, you will come to be spoiled and never again be able to own anything else. Just fair warning. ^_^

Congrats on your new purchase, Murray. 1) Good idea to get the rubber mats to preserve the carpeting. However, living in San Antonio, you would not really need them. No snow, no slop. 2) I would think you can jump right to the latest disc. 3) What is "tent"? If you mean tint, then do a search on this forum. There are lots of threads dealing with tint. As concerns the oil, that is a 'can of worms', with many, many opinions. Truth is, there are many very good oils out there. You almost can't go wrong with any brand as long as you change it on a regular (5k miles or less) basis. If you are really (really) interested in oil, peruse this site -> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ There is more info there than you could ever want. Now, are you gonna keep from us the price you paid for your new ride? How about a pic or three?

The place to begin is with the CEL code(s). Readings? Here is how to check -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Like this? -> http://www.shastaane...r/actuator.html Took all of 10 seconds of a google search...just sayin' :whistles:

And that is Kelly BB which is always high. My 2002 LS430 is in excellent condition, has only 43k miles and I doubt that I could even get $15k for it (not that I really want to sell). Look on ebay and you will see the range. http://motors.shop.e...=Lexus&Model=LS

If I had to guess, I would say that something went wrong with the rebuild. Perhaps a part got put in backwards? IF the system worked correctly BEFORE the rebuild and now is not working, you missed or misinterpreted a step. Time for a either a tear down(start over), new or remanufactured pump.

My disclaimer is that I am not an expert, however that does not stop me from rendering an opinion. ;-) Having owned a 98 LS400 and now an 02 LS430, I would go with the 430. Lots of standard "toys" and a ride that is amazing. The LS400 was very nice but the 430 is "wow". Having said that, I tend to like the chiseled good looks of the LS400 over the LS430 but I am more for function than fashion at the moment. You can find some very nice 430's for under $15k. The later years 04-06 will cost more but if you find a pampered 01-03, that would be my preference. Remember that at the mileage you are considering (right around the 90k mile mark) you will be needing a rather expensive timing belt/water pump service if not already done.

Well, pkyanko, if it is any comfort, I am an idiot too. So don't feel like you are alone. I just pretend to know and so far, it has worked. An engine code 31 for your year LS400 means that the air flow sensor is not behaving correctly as far as the computer can tell. The VAF stands for Vane Air Flow. Most people call it a MAF (Mass Air Flow) which it is in later models. The VAF works by the incoming air moving a vane which is hooked up, mechanically, to a sensor which feeds the computer. I would start by examining the connector to the VAF. As cars age, connectors become highly suspect as corrosion sets in. There are cleaners, such as CRC contact cleaner, made to clean up connector terminals and pins. There is also the possibility that the pin has vibrated lose from the VAF circuit board inside. That happened to my 92 ES300 but I able to take the air flow module apart and resolder the connections. If cleaning and reseating the connector does not help, I would check the resistance of the air flow sensor throughout its range of positions. You will need to remove the air flow unit and will need an ohmmeter to make the measurement. You *may* need to buy a new or rebuilt air flow unit if yours proves defective. They are not cheap (read: hundreds of $$$). Here is some additional reading material so you can brush up on how the unit works -> http://www.autoshop1...m/forms/h34.pdf

There are generally two fuse boxes on a Lexus...one in the engine compartment and one inside by the drivers legs. You want the inside fuse box, 30 amp fuse at jumper block #1. Depending upon year of ES. What year is your car?

I would guess that you disturbed something when taking the air intake apart. It is very easy to crack the air intake duct work because they are old and brittle. Then there is the possibility that the connector to the MAF is not seated. P0308 is a cylinder 8 misfire. I know that you have tried everything. But recheck connectors again and the duct work for cracks. Reset all codes and see what shows up.

If your battery is low or there is a shorted cell within, then yes, you will get some sparking, perhaps a lot of sparking. That is precisely why, when jumping a battery, you should make the positive (+) connection first, then find a good ground to clamp the negative (-) cable to which is away from the battery. When the last connection (-) is made, the spark is nowhere near the battery. A battery will give off hydrogen gas which is highly flammable and you do not want a spark anywhere near that source. I have personally witnessed a battery explode in an old Ford when a spark occurred near the battery post so there is good reason to follow this procedure. Sulphuric acid everywhere and very corrosive. Anyway, (off my "safety soapbox" ^_^ ) consider the battery as a primary suspect in this case. I know it seems good but I have seen them do some crazy things when a cell is shorted (or in the process of shorting) internally. BTW, just how old is your battery?

It sounds like the new sensor is either 1)defective 2) wrong part for your car 3) not properly installed or came loose.

If the rack is not leaking and working fine, why replace it? If the pump is leaking, just get a rebuilt OEM or better yet, just get your pump rebuilt and keep it all original. And welcome to the forum!

Good point, Micah. I guess I view the TB/WP as "tinkering" with the car but that somewhat trivializes the job. It does go beyond a standard tinker which is probably an oil change or serp belt change. Now, walts car, being a 93, would not be destroyed if he did something wrong with the timing. Yours, however, being a 99, might sustain some damage. On the flip side, doing your own work is a tremendous "confidence booster". It will boost your self-confidence in that what you set out to accomplish, with due diligence and attention to detail, you can successully complete. My son and I just got done replacing a head gasket, timing belt and water pump on a 92 ES300. I had never removed the heads on an side-mounted overhead cam engine before and he had only changed oil in a car. But I looked upon the job as a tremendous learning experience and confidence booster for him as a young man. I taught him how to research the project, how to bag the bolts, label connectors, vacuum lines and take lots of pictures. He performed the brunt of the work under my supervision. When he got stuck or discouraged, I came alongside and helped. The job is completed now and he has a beautifully running ES300 to drive around. For me, mission accomplished. No, not the head gasket, TB/WP. The mission of instilling greater confidence in a young man. And that it did. He is now "unafraid" to rip into it. The confidence then spills over into other areas of his life. The monetary savings ain't too bad either! ;)

Well, the "klunk" is usually the strut rod bushings. They wear out and develop cracks that causes the clunk. The (sic)"breaks" are a different matter. The guy who does your brakes does not know what he is talking about. Your rotors need "truing" (turned on a lathe to get them perfectly straight/flat). And you would want new pads as well.