RPrindl

Then use a standard filter wrench to open up the filter housing. Changing the oil on these cars isn't the messey job it used to be!

I like the new filter setup, reminds me of a motorcycle filter. Just remove that little cap, find a hose for the plastic thing and you will drain the oil from the filter. See pictures.

It was a $99 option on the window sticker. Rear seat has them too.

These came from the factory on my car:

I placed an order for 10 oil filter kits today. The dealer wanted $8.08 plus tax, I got them for $4.33 each and no tax. Part number for the AWD filter kit is 04152-YZZA2 Should look similar to this filter kit:

I found a diagram of the oil filter used on the GS350 and LS460.

But they give us a "Free" wash and vacuum! LOL I change my own oil every 3000 miles, but I’m a gear head and enjoy working on my car. .

That's only $3,511 off MSRP, you can do better. I received a phone quote of $42,800 for an MSRP of $47,511, I'm going in tomorrow after work to seal the deal. Good luck!

3/8" http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant...Product_Count=1

Good luck.

I would use a genuine Toyota oil filter also. Why somebody would want to save 5 bucks on a $35,000 Lexus is beyond me. Mobil1 5w30 is NOT the lightest oil on the market and is not the cause of the problem. You could have reduced flow in the oil passages inside the motor. This would be worse during a cold start due to thick oil, in which case lighter synthetic oil is helping you not hurting you. The bad news is that it could be caused by the OIL SLUDGE problem, use the search here for more info. What is the repair history (oil changes) for the car? You can pull the front valve cover off in a few minutes and find out how frequently the oil was changed, it may be ugly in there!

The rubber swaybar bushings are verry easy to replace! It's #14 in the attached pictire.

If they are the bushings I am thinking of then yes, it is easy to do.

Miguel Good news for you, if you only need 1 bushing. Buy them cheap on line from Park Place Lexus in Plano Texas. The site is newlexusparts.com check the on line "Body parts" catalog for pictures and prices. Other people on this site told me about them and I got parts from them cheap and fast. Good luck Dude they aint nothin like your Nissan 240 drifting machine. Tuners install poly bushings not rubber ones, but it would be stupid to ruin the Lexus ride quality with hard poly bushings. What year is your es300?

I checked everything when I did the struts, all the control arms and control arm bushings are good. The 4 control arms bolt to a large sub-frame kind of thing thats held in by 4 bushing assemblies, that could be the problem. Those 8 subframe bushings cost $200. This is what they redesigned in later models. My advice is to replace the strut cartridges, our 94's don't need wheel allignment afterwards and they are cheap. I bought KYB units for like $36 each. The upper strut mounts were $75 each from Lexus and weren't worn out, so I advise not to replace them unless they are bad. I think I can live with the noise, it rides much better with the new struts now. I don't want to spend too much money on such an old car. I just replaced the radiator and hoses too. Added picture of crossmember on 1994 ES300.

My 94 ES300 also makes the same sound. I just installed new rear strut cartridges and both upper mounts, bit it still makes the noise. Our 94 models don't have the same rear suspension as a 2001 model. The simple bushing change as discussed in the other thread "golf balls in the trunk sound" doesn't apply.

My car is a 94 ES also. I installed just one filter, think it was the thicker one. Also be sure to clean out the leaves and junk in there while you're at it.

I also had a Bosal Y-pipe that leaked! It was due to poor assembly (made in India) and had to be "massaged". Problem was where the gasket meets the flange. The pipe didn't allow the flange to sit flat. Your mechanic should fix the leak. :chairshot:

If its anything like the one on my 1994 then the bracket has a pin in the center that locates it. It's an interference fit. Just keep wiggling it and it will come off!

Looks like an $8,000 estimate to me. :chairshot:

What is the name of this Lexus Dealer in NJ???

For the trans I cleaned both the pan and trans and installed the cork gasket dry. That's supposed to be the correct way to do it. No leaks. For the motor I used a sealer, just like the original one, and no leaks either. Check the oil pump pickup screen for sludge, may want to buy a new one if it's been sludged up. While you're at it remove the front valve cover and look for sludge, you may be suprised at what you find!

The Camry uses the same part. I found a Raybestos part for $89.00 jobber $150.00 list. Part will be here tomorrow. This all started with a torn CV boot. It was so old and cracked that it opened up and started ripping. Grease was slung everywhere. I decided to replace both axles and the front strut cartridges at the same time for my July 4th weekend project. Looked easier to remove the whole strut assembly and use the spring compressor off the car. Just needed to remove the ABS sensor as shown in the service manual. Ha ha ha. It was rusted in place and disintegrated in my hands when I pulled it out. Now I can move on to the rear struts, fogged front headlight housing, bad taillight bulb, Oxygen sensor, front engine mount, dash bulbs, etc.

I need to find a replacement front ABS wheel sensor for my 94 ES300. Other than the Lexus dealer does anyone else sell the part?

Remove the head to diagnose a bad rear main seal? The rear main seal is on the crankshaft, removing the cylinder head makes no sense, unless excessive sludge is causing the problem. Take the replacement motor, just make sure it's rebuilt in Japan!