ModMan

I've replaced the evaporator core in my 92 LS400 and there wasn't any cabin air filter in sight. There isn't any cabin air filter listed in my LS 400 factory manual. Also, Newlexusparts.com doesn't list a filter for my LS400 but does list them for the 95-00 L S400

There is no filter on the Gen 1 LS400 HVAC system.

My 92 LS400 developed a moldy smell after there was a slow refrigerant leak; turns out the leak was in the evaporator core and the oil which leaked out caused dust to collect on the that portion of the evaporator. The combination of dust and moisture plus blocked airflow must have been a great breeding ground for mold.

My 92 LS400 had strut bar cushions which is different than the 98 lexus LS400 which has strut bar bushings. You can see the difference in the attached files in the posts above. The 98 bushing would probably be a little more difficult to install since it may have to be pressed into the strut rod end. I didn't see any strut rod bushings (or any suspension parts) for the 98 LS400 at newlexusparts.com, but there is one of your bushings here. You could probably find some other sources and installation instructions by searching this forum.

It looks like the 92 is different than what is shown in the PDF file above. It is called a strut bar cushion in the 92 LS400 manual and mounts in the strut bar bracket..

You do not have to remove the strut bars to change the strut bar bushings on the 92 LS400. There are three nuts to remove on the bushing studs and a large nut to remove off of the strut rod (I used a 15/16" socket). The bushing will slide forward off the strut rod. I had to pull down on the strut rod to gain clearance to slide the bushings off. It was not hard to replace these bushings on the 92 LS. I would think it would be the same on your 98.

Yes, the swaybar bushings are split. I replaced mine and the strut bar bushings last weekend. It didn't get rid of my clunking noise, though. The lower ball joints appear to be the cause; I could see quite a bit of play when I pried up each front wheel with the front frame on jack stands. The ball joints had over 100k miles on them.

A faulty PCV valve can cause the crankcase to pressurize and force oil out any openings, making big leaks out of small ones. The PCV valve is on the left valve cover, is inexpensive, and easy to replace.

My fan bracket bearing went out at 202k miles. The drive belt idler pulley and tensioner pulley bearings have also gone out within the last couple of months. It looks like 200k is the limit for these bearinngs on the drive belt.

Could be O2 sensors.

I just replaced the fan bracket. idler pulley, and tensioner pullley which are all on the serpentine drive belt on my 92 LS400 with 202K miles in the last few months. The fan bracket bearing would make an intermittant noise like the power steering pump was locking up. The fan bracket bearing finally failed completely and threw the belt off. The other two bearings just made a constant noise. It might be a good idea to remove the serpentine belt and hand spin all the items on the drive belt to see if any of them sound rough.

A bad PCV valve can pressurize the crankcase and force oil out the rear main seal and out any openings on the oil pan gasket. Replacing the PCV valve may slow these leaks to a tolerable level.

Mine broke when I tried to open the door that had frozen (freezing rain) shut. A new handle from the dealer was around $100. The new handle was more robust in the area that broke.

My 92 LS fan support bearing failed at 202K miles. Has anyone replaced just the bearing? I could not find this part at newlexusparts.com and the local dealer is very expensive.

Napa Auto $25.49 ea. front, $19.99 ea. rear for the 92 LS400. I put a set on the rear a couple of months ago; no problems so far. I didn't order online, the local Napa Parts store had the same price.

If cleaning the small air filter doesn't help, remove the EGR valve by loosening the 2 or 3 small bolts securing it to the intake manifold and clean the inside of the EGR valve with solvent. You will have to disconnect a few vacuum hose connections and unclip some vacuum components to gain access.

A dirty EGR valve or a clogged EGR breather (attaches to the EGR valve) can cause the LS 400 to seem to hesitate between 40 and 45 mph. My 92 LS400 would hesitate at this speed range when it had about 150K on it. Taking the EGR valve off and cleaning it with carb cleaner fixed it. The EGR valve is easy to remove and re-install. I found the solution at this Site Later I had to take off the intake manifold off to clean the cold start injector (long cranking times) because the fumes which fouled up the EGR valve had completely covered the start injector with a black deposit. This task required a full day to accomplish.

I'm sorry you had so much trouble. At least your locksmith did the programming for the door trunk. The locksmith I was referred said he was only required to program the ignition part; the door/trunk lid programming was left to myself. I followed the door/trunk instructions furnished by Streetkeys and after about two or three tries I got it to work. Basically it was operator error on my unsuccessful attempts, as I had trouble getting the car into program mode.

I won the ebay item mentioned above and the seller agreed to send another one for the same price ($40). They don't make the bushings so there must be a cheaper source somewhere else. The phone number for this place is 877-778-6968. I'm sure they would be willing to sell to anyone at this price. I should be getting the bushings in a few days.

I just noticed the site with the transponder description will also reflash ECMs for people who have lost all of their master keys. Here is the link for the service. This may come in handy for someone.

I changed my timing belt last month and spent $475 in parts (oem water pump, both idlers, distributor caps and rotors, thermostat, and belt). I think shops get 4 - 5 hours for the job; it only took me 12. If you don't find any records you could take off one distrubutor cap cover and look at the condition of the existing belt. Mine had at least 100K miles on it and the exterior of the belt was covered with small cracks.

The blank key needs to be cut in an exact copy of the original in order to turn the switch/unlock the steering wheel. Then the car needs to be programmed to memorize the code in the new key in order to allow the engine to start. An original master key is required to accomplish the programming. Here is a description of the technology inside the key.

I used streetkeys for the master w/remote plus a generic master for another backup with no problems. I had one master key and didn't need the ECM flashing I mentioned in the last part of my previous post. The remote key was just like my genuine Lexus key that I got with the car. The keys arrived in a few days USPS with the name of a local lock smith to copy my the key pattern onto the new keys and program both in the car. The total bill was $185 for both keys including the service.

The fuel door spring was only a few bucks at the dealer. It wasn't listed at this online dealer parts place though they probably have one.

Gas door release inop is probably a missing spring clip which pushes the door out. I believe there is a TSB on this problem and the replacement spring clip is redesigned to keep it from falling out. My black jade 92 LS400 had this probem about 5 years ago. The part was only a few dollars.