Ray92es

I gave up on repairing the cable and tried removing it. It is stuck at the front. Has anyone ever replaced their cable or know of instructions. It looks like the cable gets turned 90 degees and pos out but mine is not turning. I doesn't help the exhaust is in the way. Well after days of wire brushing and PB Blaster, I got the old cable off. In trying to reinstall, I had to chisel off the mount nut by the axle stabilizer bar. New bolt and nut and next to the mount that goes next to the tank strap. Nothing left but half a bolt. Made a new clamp out of plumbers strapping. Will try tomorrow if the weather holds up. Next is draining the gas tank. Anybody done this?

I've heard about the wiring difference. since you cannot get the harness, you'll have to modify yours. Can you swap the sockets to use a dual filiment bulb? Maybe you can posts pictures of the 2 units

I gave up on repairing the cable and tried removing it. It is stuck at the front. Has anyone ever replaced their cable or know of instructions. It lloks like the cable gets turned 90 degees and pos out but mine is not turning. I doesn't help the exhausrt is in the way.

I had the problem and it was not the taillights. In fact i have all the original taillights. It's far easier to look at the lights instead of switching them out

Sorry, MC = Master Cylinder which is where you put the fluid in under the hood.

An easy way to tell if its MC or Emer. brake is to disconnect plug on MC. If it goes out its not the emer brake. Mine stuck for months, I had to tap the thing to get it loose. But then I found I had a leak in the brake line An easy way to tell if its MC or Emer. brake is to disconnect plug on MC. If it goes out its not the emer brake. Mine stuck for months, I had to tap the thing to get it loose. But then I found I had a leak in the brake line

My left side emergency brake cable has frozen for the second time. The Dealer replaced it a few years ago and broke off some mounts and used tyraps tied to the fuel lines to support it. Anyways, in the process of replacing fuel lines, I saw the cable stuck and the brake shoes worn. No one has the part in stock. Has anyone ever had suscess in freeing up the cable and it lasting? Does anyone have any spare brake shoes?

Did you fix it yet?

Why "MUST" they be hooked up in parallel? I just put a resistor in line(series), and it always worked fine. Lets say the old bulb drew 1.3 amps at 12 volts and the new 168 draws only 0.3 amps (I'm guessing). In order for the turn signal flasher relay to work properly the resistor must draw an additional 1.0 amps and you can't increase current draw by adding resistance in series, only in parallel with the 168 bulb. I think that there are more than 2 168 bulbs if the blinker is fast. Fast means more current draw. Means bigger or more bulbs. Adding resistance in series would then restore resistance and slow it down.

The yellow top is more of a deep cycle battery than a starting battery

No way I know to shut it off. I dislike that myself. If you put the key in the ignition, it won't lock. Tell your wife to keep her purse with the key outside it or leave the door open

A larger alt. will be able to provide more power, the lights will only use what they need. You will need larger power wire to a much higher capacity alt. to handle the extra power Alt. have more than 1 diode, so it may be putting out a little bit of power. But the bottom line is to replace it. The yellow top is the wrong battery for most car applications. The red top or a standard battery is the way to go

I second that. I have close to 200k and mine runs great. I only use 87. The manual states that you only need 87. Unless you're knocking, which the computer usually adjusts for, you need not going higher.

Did you replace your lines yet?

The yellow top is a deep cycle battery, not a car starter battery. The yellow is a good choise for a second trunk battery if you run a amp with the car shut off for extended periods

Is the shop trained for Lexus? Lexus paint is different than other cars as is Mercedes

It not the same but I have a 92 that i use to pull my several small trailers. The heaviest one is used to move sand from a friends house to mine. I'm hauling a ton at a time. I've made the 30 mile trip dozens of times. No problems. Mostly it's used to move a box that won't or I don't want to put in the car. I mounted an isolation controller in the trunk by the left taillight. I ran a tap off the fuseblock and ran a wire under the carpet into the trunk. Did not have to drill any holes that way.

I did the rear brake line by hand as you have to remove the rear axle assembly to put in a preformed pipe. It would not be cheaper to do the fuel line if you add the cost of frostbite working on a car in the snow. I bug people too about stating pertinent info about their car all the time but I though my moniker, Ray92es, gave it away.

Purchased new tube from dealer, They run over $40 ea but I don't want to go through manualy bending the tubing in the winter.

Have your headlights been polshed lately? This will do a world of difference. There are ton of threads on sanding and polishing headlights. I do mine every year

I just found out that one of my fuel lines running under the driver seat has rusted through. Has anyone ever replaced these? Does anyone know what size the tubing is? That protective plastic cover seems to be a moisture trap causing leaks. I had to replace a brake line last year.

Why do you want to go to a smaller tire? It's a lot shorter

I read the FAQ's and know all about plus and minus sizing. My wheels are 16 X 7 with 205's. I could have gone to a larger diameter but the profile must go down. I drove some Es's with 17 and 18 but the tires were hard to find that were proper diameter so they ended up with a crappy ride. I have maybe 10mm adding both sides in the rear so any wider tire would rub. I tried some 225's but to clear the fender they were up against the strut. I also have seen a few cars that blistered their paint.

I thought of retapping but a tap needs to go past the end of the rotor to work due to the taper and there is the hub behind it. I don't think I can take off the hub assy with the rotor attached.

[ I have a 1992 ES300 with 17x7 new style Avalon / Solara ( same fitment as 2007 ES ) 235/45-17, Factory wheels don't vibrate, but they look great and handles way better than the 15" Stocks How do your wheels and tires fit. I changed mine to Borbet type T 16 X 7 with 205/60-16. I have no room for bigger tires without modifying wheel wells or suspension and keeping clearence.