Ray92es

Thanks all for the ideas. Keep them coming because I've tried it all. The screw holes are all stripped out on both rotors. Bearing at the moment are s till good. I don't think A 10 lb. sledge would shatter the rotors since there isn't enough clearence to give a hard enough swing. I tried an air chisel on the rotors by the hub and all I get is a bunch of dents. Maybe if I wait until it's 20 below.

You led us to believe that you were going for the dealer installed aftermarket wheels not factory options. There would be no regular wheels if optional equipment was installed. If the car you purchased did not have the option and some other car did, they would swap the wheels so there would be no extra. Go to th parts counter and price the wheels and you'll have your answer.

My front rotors are original and been on there 15 years and 200k mi. . They are starting to delaminate and I need to replace. They are the most stuck on things ever. I wd-40 and pb blaster them front and backside. I tried bolts through the front of the rotors. I tried heat, but not a big enough torch. I tried Harbor Freight 12" gear pullers and broke 6. I tried a hammer, a bigger hammer, a sledge hammer, a 10 lb sledge hammer. No budge. I need to replace these things soon and it is getting cold out there. My next thought was an air cutter but I'm afraid it won't be able to cut enough off and I will be out my car. HELP

I had the problem with my car when I parked on a steep hill. Topped off fluid and it stayed on. I remove connector from resivior and light went out. Put connector back on and light came back on. After weather got better, many many month, I decided to bleed brakes. During the process, the LR wheel cable leaked. I replaced that, not an easy job and the right one sprung a leak. Both leaks were at clamp points where the clamp hel the tubing to the body. Been fixed for over a year now.

You can always find aftermarket wheels for less than a dealer. They mark up the wheels a lot. Some people don't know anything about wheels and they seethem and say add it. They only care how much th payment goes up. If you're not familiar with what's out there, go shop at the better retail shops and make sure that the wheels you get clear everthing with the suspension all the way up and down.

My 92 ES starts up fine but when it has been raining, it stumbles upon acceleration for a minute or 2 and then runs fine. If car is warm, will start and run fine. I thought water but it will happen even if ther has not been enough rain to get anything wet. A heavy fog can do it also. Since this is an infrequent thing, I hope someone has run into this and resolved it

Does anyone know if there's a post on removing the faceplate from the radio?

Pull plugs and see if 1 or many have carbon. ! means injector, many may be regulator.

I use NAPA ceramix, clean and quiet. I think some people may be confusing the antisqeel pad with the shim. I would pull the caliper and clean everything. Remove rust from contact points, pads, shim, caliper and piston. Clean rotor with laquer thinner. Apply anti-squeel lube to piston cup and take for a test.

My volume on my 92 ES is loose. It still works so I was wondering if anyone has ever tightened theirs without removing radio? I tried sockets but could not get one to fit.