Wubbman

Thanks man. I can't say that I'll do it myself (I'm at college right now) but the help is much appreciated.

That would be great if that was it. How exactly do I go about pulling the door panel off? What tools are needed? I assume a mechanic could do though. What are the chances of damaging something else though by doing it myself?

Hey all, I discovered today that there is an issue w/ my driver's door lock. It will not open from the outside but works fine from the inside. The strange thing is that it started doing it very suddenly. I came out from church this morning and started to de-ice my car. I unlocked the driver's door w/ the key, opened it, started the car, grabbed my scraper, and shut it. After scrapping some I went to turn on the defrost only to find the door wouldn't open. I couldn't believe that the car had relocked itself but I eventually called AAA. They ended up sending a locksmith, but not before I had discovered that the door was indeed unlocked (I could see the indicator from the otherside). I thought it had frozen shut and poured hot water on it to no avail. Come to think of it I should have known because the handle felt like it was locked but I couldn't grasp what was happening. Anyway, the locksmith came and got the other doors unlocked with little trouble. Now my question. What kind of costs am I looking at? Could it be that the lock can be repaired? I don't know what happened. I wasn't abusive or anything with the lock and I shut the door like I normally do after I turned the car on. Also, I can hear a slight vibration in the window now when driving and I can hear a slight rattle within the door. Any thoughts would be most appreciated. Thanks.

I pried up at each corner first to release the clips and then pulled forward. Worked perfectly with no broken tabs. ← Excellent. Thanks all.

Ok. Is that it? There nothing to unscew at all? Nothing to un-clasp? Thanks.

Hey guys! Its been quite awhile since I've posted here. Anyways, my tail light sensor has been on for a few months about a brake light that is burned out in my rear window (the bank of brake lights that sit above the passenger seats, see the accompanying pic). Anyways, how do I fix it without taking it to a shop? It doesn't look like there's a way to take it apart from what I can tell. Also, what light bulb do I need? Thanks for any help.

Yeah, I know I won't get an accurate reading right after its been turned off. It leaked a little more today but I tightened the drain plug and I hope that stopped it. I will certainly be checking it throughout the rest of the day. Hopefully that will be the end of it. Thanks for your help.

Any update yet? I hope you take them for all they're worth. Good luck.

Well, I was driving home last night and the oil light came on. As I got off the highway to investigate, it went off. I stopped somewhere and checked the dipstick. It said the oil level was full so I continued home while keeping a careful lookout for the oil light. It didn't come on again. Today I checked the oil level and it was about 2/3rds of the way down on the dipstick. I put about 2/3rds of a quart in it and went on my way. I went to a buddy's house and let the car sit for about three hours. When I got ready to go home I first moved to car to check for any oil drip (I was parked on a slight hill so I didn't think I would get an accurate reading on the dipstick). Much to my annoyance there was a puddle of oil where the right side of the car had been (it was maybe six inches to the right of center of the grill and in line with the axel). The puddle was about six inches across. A few weeks ago I got the oil changed so I hoping this has something to do with that. I've had this car for close to two years and this is the first time anything like this has happened. Could the drain plug be loose? When I was there they broke my old drain plug and had to put a new one on. I'll definately have it checked on Monday, but has this ever happened to anyone else? Does anybody have any other ideas? Thanks.

No sk, it only occurs when going straight, no matter what speed (though I don't hear it past 55 mph, but thats because the wheel is turning so fast).

Thanks for the link, Alan. I'll go out and give the tires a good look sometime later today.

Hmmm. Define "cupping?" I think the tires are in good condition. They were new when I got the car. Theres a little over 13k miles on them. I do my best to keep them aired up. Could there be a problem w/ the wheel?

First off, how is everyone? Its been awhile since I've posted. I've been having this problem for quite awhile now, and I don't know what to make of it. When ever I'm going straight, I hear a "whomp whomp whomp" sound coming from the left front wheel area. I don't know whats causing it but I know its not the CV joints (I've checked and the boots are just fine). It has something to do with the wheel, as the rythum gets faster the faster I go. I'm pretty sure it started when I had the tires rotated a few months ago. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be and what I can do to stop it? Thanks.

Thanks Alan.

Thanks for the comments. :) Hank, where do I get NXT wax? Thanks.

Last one. You can see the hole in the fence where the truck came through after leaving the street (apparently to avoid another car <_< ).

This pic requires some explaining. The (destroyed) pillar in the background was hit by a truck that came into our yard a few weeks ago. You can see the hole in the fence in another shot.

This is a pic of a mistake I think I made during the claying process. It appears a little part of the clear coat (the circled part) is gone. Just the bare primer is there. Just a reminder to everyone to be sure to use proper lubricant while claying. The scratch that is x-ed out was done by my cat ( ).

Another, this time from the driver's side.

Another.

Well, a few hours ago I finished waxing my car, with spectacular results. The day before I had clayed it using the clay from the Lexus Car Care Store. I washed it again today b/c I hand't rinsed it enough yesterday and some of the dirt the clay picked up dried back on. After washing and drying, I applied some Meguire's Wax (that I bought at Wal-Mart ). You can see the results in the pics. The car has never looked better. The surface feels extraordinarily smooth. It almost feels wet. I apologize for the condition of the tires. I washed the car in my gravel drive way. They will get taken care of later.

I have been having problems with my rear speakers lately. They don't work at all aparently. Whenever I turn the fade all the way to rear, no sound comes out. There is no hissing or buzzing or anything like that, there is just complete silence. I've taken the car to any number of people, all who said they had no idea whether it was the head unit, the amp, or the speakers themselves. Now my question: how do I diagnose this without taking it to the nearest Lexus dealership (1 1/2 hour drive)? I just need to know what part is defective and then I can replace it, but finding out has been fruitless so far. Does anyone know of a website that has information on the sound set up in the '95 ES? I have no idea how many speakers there are, of what type they are, or how powerful they are. Thanks for any help!

2 of 2.

Here you go. 1 of 2.

Tundra-Lover, I'm running front Hawk pads right now. I've had them for around 8 months and they're great. Jules, I would recommend these brakes to you. They're excellent rotors (their only fault is that the parts that have no contact with the pads like to rust), and you have a choice of the pattern as well. I got them when I got the Hawk pads. I can post pics of them if you like.