Wubbman

Ok. I'll get some pics, but that will be next weekend. Sorry. I don't normally go home during the week, and thats where the digi cam is. :(

Hey, I'm looking for a new or near-new right headlamp. I've looked on Ebay and been unsucessful and I can't find anything on the search engines either. Does anyone know where I can find one online?

LOL! I just installed the 9005 high beams today (WM didn't carry them!). They are quite powerful at 1700 lumens apiece.

Well, I installed Silverstar lows about an hour ago. They really live up to their hype. Very clear, white light with a hint of blue. I'm very pleased with them. Now if I can only find the 9005s locally and get a new right headlight. :(

Well, I finally got my car back from the body shop today. I sent it in last monday after trying to find time since October 30th to have it worked. A group of students from SMU hit me and then called the police. Their school was very nice and paid for the repairs out of pocket. All I can say is that it looks like it was never hit (except for a very new headlight contrasting with a very old one). I will try to post pics this weekend after I give it a good wash.

Due to some recent events, I have a new headlight housing. This will now contrast to the other headlight, which is experiencing high levels of fog. I know there is a way to take the headlight off and dunk it in hot water or something to take the lens off and clean it. Frankly, the thought of doing that terrifies me (it would be my luck I would break the thing), so I was wondering if there is an alternative. I don't know at the moment, but how big are the holes that the actual headlight bulbs fit into? If they are of sufficient size, is it possible to get a little dowl with a cloth or something on it into the housing to clean the lens? To those who have done it, what is the fog stuff like? Does it just wipe away or is it tougher than that? Can it be blown away? It would be very easy to get a bottle of compressed air to shoot into the housing. Basically, is there any way to clear the fog up besides taking the housing apart or by buying a new headlight? Thanks to anyone who can help.

Do these look like a good value? Headlights I don't think the wattage is a problem. My real question is are they street legal? 7000k? If SilverStars are 4000k, how can these be legal. Thanks.

Hey, what are the best replacement headlight bulbs? I'm thinking of getting Sylvania Silverstars. I don't have a performance wiring harness, so I will have get bulbs with the OEM wattage. What other options are there?

Lol Blake. I got the idea from Alan actually. I bet BrassMonkey is proud of this thread. Its not everyday you make a thread that gets over 60 replies and some 630 views.

Hey, thanks Alan!

Here is a pic of mine and my parents ESs. The old and the really old!

Oh man, I don't think I'd try a paint job. It would be really, really hard and very expensive to try and equal the paint job that came with it from the factory. Yeah, the bottom part of my seats got reapholstered too, though not by me. It will all certainly add to the resale value of the car, but I can't see you making too much profit of a car well over a decade old. Good luck.

That's real nice man! My parent's ES isn't in near that good a condition. Your seats looks great! Their seats are all cracked and stuff. I like your CD player. That space right below it is where the OEM CD player would have gone had the first owner gotten that option. Well done!

Yeah, that's the hum. It does it off and on. I worried about it at first (that disclaimer wasn't on the website when I purchased them), but it doesn't really bother me now. You could hear it but it didn't really vibrate the car, so I figured it was just the slots (which it is). Are you really considering these? I looked for about a month before I decided on these. Email me if you are interested and I will give a few links I found.

I like them a lot. They are really quiet except for at hard stops (which I do my best not to make). They don't have a lot of miles on them (maybe 2k), so I can't speak for their longevity. If they ever did warp there are ways to turn them, but I'm doing my best to try and prevent that (I try very hard to be gentle with the brakes). I know they are drilled in such a way as to combat cracking (something about no edges on the drill hole, its explained better on the site). But yes, they do look good, and if the situation ever around I have no doubt they would stop me very quickly. They do look real cool when the light catches them. I might need to get some new rims someday that show them off more.

Yeah Blake, stock calipers work fine. There is no way I'm going to mess with those ($!). $478 for all four wheels. There is a link on the site to a price list. I believe that your '94 and my '95 take the same rotor, so that be about $173 a piece for drilled and slotted rotors for one axle. I could be wrong. Check it out.

Blake, I believe the total was $478 for everything (rotors and pads) and then it was about $90 more to have them installed. Supposedly these are made in such a way that cracking is unlikely (something about the curve at the cross-drilled hole). Its explained better on the site. I figure they will last quite awhile as I do my best to be very gentle with them. Except for the rust on the non-braking surfaces (I probably should have tried to get them zinc coated or something ), they're great brakes!

Blake, here is where I got them. Mine aren't that cool gold color though.

Neiltyme, the rotors are alright. They are very smooth during stops and don't make much noise at all (none in light to moderate braking). My OEM rotors were warped when I got the car, so I can't really compare them to anything. The only bad part about the new rotors is that they are rusting. Not on the braking surfuce, but everything that doesn't contact the pad is rusting up. Not very attractive! Still, they work great.

Very well said! Buying an older Lex is the next best idea to buying new Lex. I don't know if I will ever buy a brand new Lexus, but I will definately be buying used ones in the future. There's no reason not to.

Yeah man, they're fairly expensive. :( Do what I said and take a look at the boot though. You should be able to find it with no probs. If there's nothing wrong with the boots on either side then I guess it could be someone else. Wait till sk or SW read this. They can provide more info. HTH.

LOL. I love telling people that I'm the one that paid for it! My parents do help out with insurance, but only because they don't have to pay for anything else (my soul belongs to the Army ;) ). I've got you beat on previous cars though. All through high school and my freshman year at college (sophmore now) I drove a '91 Geo Metro. It had 3 cylinders and one of them didn't fire half the time, so there was this really annoying shaking effect during acceleration. I'm so glad to be rid of it. :D

Oh man. Do you get the same noise when you turn it all the way to the right? Are you moving at the time you hear the noise? If so, you might have bad CV joints. Park the car and turn your wheels all the way to one side, then look in the wheel well at the back of the rim. There will be a small rubber joint (the CV boot) there (where the rim meets the hub). If the rubber joint is torn or is leaking grease, you have a problem. Also, look for grease on the inside of the rim (a thick black grease). That's another tell-tell sign. I'm sure someone more knowlegable will chime in about your AC system, because I have no idea what might be causing that. HTH.

Yeah man, it's on the left side of the trunk. You can't miss it. It is a little box, covered with carpet, fixed to the floor of the trunk with "CD Changer" in big letters on the top.

Hey man, it might have a CD player! Its not a standard feature, but they can come with one (my parents' 250 has one). Something to find out before you take the CD player out of the box. HTH.