philbe1

most dent pullers work depending on the dent. if the dent has any kinks, sharp corners or where the metal looks like it is creased then it won't work. if the dent is like the inside of a smooth bowl i dont see why any dent puller won't work.

I also have another question too. how wide of a tire can go on a 17 X 7.5 inch rim without sticking out of the sides of the car itself. My stock wheel size is 205/ 65 R15 would i need to get a tire that is 235/65 R17 or will a wider tire like the 235/40 R17 fit so that tire isnt sticking out on the outside of the car. Too much tire overhang is horrible looking i think

i'm looking into getting wheels that are 17x7.5 and the company suggests a tire size of 235/40ZR17 i know there are some wheel and tire experts out there. I checked the prices of the 235/40ZR17's and they are quite expensive. ranging from 120-175$ where i am. Now ZR's are racing tires and i don't really need racing style tires so is there any other size tires that would fit the 17 X 7.5 rim size and still fit on a 97 es300. NOTE: suspension and all that is stock, no changes done to it.

can i have 700+ a wheel? hehe nah i've been searching and I am definately not gonna go with the first thing i see. However I do have a limited wallet when it comes to wheels and tires and 700+ a wheel is a bit too *gulp pricey for me. don't worry guys when i finally decide to get some wheels i'll make you all proud B)

Much respect for you more "experienced" guys. Keep us wippersnappers in line. if a spoiler is what you so desire then dang it get a spoiler. You deserve it. maybe even some Hydraulics. HAHAHAHAHA just kidding LOL

i'm trying hard guys to get my buddy's digi camera from him but he works weird hours. hopefully soon i will have pics of my headunit for you guys . also am looking into aftermarket wheels. has anyone delat with WheelsNext.com??? they seem pretty reasonable. what do you think?

well the quality of the subs will depend on where exactly you get your signal from. pre amping is always the best bet but if you tap into somewhere after the amp you will get distortion at lower volume. I said it before and i'll say it again get a Hayne manual for your particular year ES300. it would be even better cuz you can see which set of wires sends a signal to your stock sub woofer and if you can tap off of that (pre amp of course) you should be able to get just the low end frequency that is required for just subs and it should sound better, if not an aftermarket amp should be able to filter out higher frequency's and make it a bit better sounding. good luck on how ever you decide to tackle it.

if your so inclined to do it yourself Like I did, try not to integrate any of the exsisting audio components (except the speakers) i.e head unit and stock amp. and buy the Haynes manual for your lexus model. it has the complete audio system wiring schematic in the book if you are so bold like myself to take on the task of doing it yourself. if not then by all means take it to a shop and get it done if of course money isn't an issue. Good luck which ever way you decide to go

Absolutely right Lexusfreak, although it is a very opinionated issue. I always say is save the spoiler for the hondas. lexus owners are more evolved. but individuality is a great thing. so go with your heart Livin as long as its not a "WING" spoiler it won't look too bad :-)

there was a wire harness compatability problem but that was easily solved when i cut the original harness that is on the car and made my connections that way. I would have never attempted it if not for the Haynes manual for the lexus, It shows what ever wire goes to. in fact if you ask for a wire harness for a lexus they give you a toyota one. and i found how the hard way (-14$) that the pins on the toyota harness and the lexus harness snap together but the wires do not match. so for example a B+ line on the lexus connector may line up to a left speaker negative on the toyota harness. so best be is to get the Haynes manual with the wiring schematic and just make your connections with the help of an aftermarket wire harness. I had to learn from experience.

I'm a workin on it, Gotta get a hold of my buddy when he's not working but soon I promise :D

I have a 97 es300 and it might be a bit different than yours but how mine comes out was open the glove box and there are 3 phillips head screws equally spaced at the top. take them out the close the glove box. then on the lower left corner of the bottom of the glove box is yet another phillips head screw. remove that. then on the right hand side you need to pop off the side plastic runner rail where the passenger door closes and the corner carpeted piece that should expose a 10mm bolt, remove that and then open the glove box up and with a firm and equal grip pull the 2 push clips that are in the middle of the 3 top screws you first removed. and that should be it. But like i said I have a 97 and i don't know how much they differ from a 92. Good luck though.

The front headlights on the 97 are bit of a pain in the neck, I replaced em they are easy to remove and put in all except the fact that little Pin clip thing is a pain in the neck and can be frustrating. I kept dropping it but maybe thats just me <_<

this past weekend i installed a Kenwood KDC-X579 headunit in my car 200watts 50X4, 230$ unit but the sales guy sold it to me for 220$ Let me tell you this thing does just about everything except talk to you. The headunit itself is very nice but I take great pleasure in saying that i did not spend a DIME taking it to a garage to have it professionally installed. I did it all myself. Installing a headunit in a Honda or VW is not too difficult but i think we all know how near impossible it is to find Dash kits for our es300 mor specifically the 97 model. Anyway I fabricated a dash kit myself. basically I took the old stock unit out, disassembled the radio and removed the stock amp. I gutted the Old headunit so i could use the same face plate and the side metal clips that hold the face plate to it. now a normal Dinn size radio no where near matches any holes or what not to the stock face plate so what i did I bought a very THIN piece of plexi glass glued the piece very securely to the front of the stock faceplate and put my Dremel with cutting disc to work. slowly but surely i carefully trimmed a new hole for the new headunit to fit with a bit of recess in the dash. "but plexi-glass is clear" you say? I bought a can of 10$ spray paint that actually molecularly bonds to hard plastic. after 15 coats of black flat paint and drilling a hole for my amp switch. so that at anytime i can turn off the sub woofers with the click of a switch. It was ready to be installed. Everythings done and it looks very close to professional and it sounds great. I am waiting on a buddy of my to let me use his digi camera. and i hope to get some pics up so u all can see in the next few days. Oh and a word of advice to anyone looking in the market for an aftermarket head unit get one that can also play MP3's i have 2 full 700mb discs one has 151 songs and the other 117 songs. Who needs a cd changer with that amount of songs on 1 disc. PEACE ALL. :D

Small world indeed. Umm i service little things on my own but when i need bigger or routine (free) oil changes i take it up to sheridan Nissan, yeah i know what your thinking but its where i bought it and free oil changes are good. I only had but 1 major problem with the Lex and it was alternator problems the rest is just maintaining the car and I do that myself. I know of a lexus dealer in wilmington on pennsylvania ave. I've yet to check them out.

BBsal where did u get your dash kit for aftermarket headunit at? I have a 97 es300 I have looked at soo many places and found nothing

New Castle, bout 15 mins from U of D

thanks es brother! i'll check it out :D

I know a few of u have done this and I went to a few car part stores and found nothing. does anyone know a website or a car part franchise store that sells the right kind of transparent red spray paint for redding out the Amber turn signals in the rear (from inside the tail light housing of course)?

there are 2 parts to the plastic retainer clip. unscrew the screw until it pops out but a little bit like an 1/8th to a 1/4 inch then holding the unscrewed part with ur fingers between the washer looking thing and the phillips looking head push the washer part into the hole until it clips in then like a 1/2 turn with phillips screw driver turn the head of the retainer clip. I had to do the same thing when some one hit my car and dented my bumper which in turn blew the bulb in the tail light. good luck it isn't hard unless the retainer clip breaks. and in case that happens go to auto parts store and go in the Help! section and look for a retainer clip that is similar, one of my retainer clips for the tail light access broke and i replaced mine with a honda made retainer clip and it worked just fine. I don't think getting the dealership involved is necessary. but maybe thats just me. I like doing my own repairs.

i have 97 es300 also and my LCD display is out too, where did you order from (specifically) and how much was it?

Oh man this is weird my 97 es300 is also Oyster ::::dun dun dunnnnn::::: the plot thickens

I have 97 es300 also and the exact same thing has happened to me, I even had a bit of touch up paint before it got real bad but no luck it still all peeled.

yeah thats another thing that complexes me, the fact that they are like 3$ i know that cuz i replaced em, makes me think i should just give the kid the $3 instead of going though all the hassle. "here kid go buy yourself some chrome caps and stay away from my car" :D

Kids steal vavle stem caps, i know this for a fact cuz they put the chrome or gold caps on their itty bitty bicycles. I left a couple caps at gas stations when putting air in em, so after a bit i only had 2 chrome caps and 2 plastic caps and to my HUGE and stunned surprised some kid stole all of the caps, chrom and plastic. cuz you know plastic caps are so Rare to get ahold of