mrbutz1

Thats beside the point, the fact that you have some money saved up and you're going to college is precisely why you need to dump this car. Do you really want to sink all your cash into this thing? What if it breaks down AGAIN after you're already at school? I'm not advocating getting car payments, I'm just saying to get something cheap and simple like a Civic that will cost a whole lot less to maintain. You're going to have much better things to do with your money than pour it into a car. Agreed. You can certainly find a '93 or '94 in very good condition with high miles (I have one, perfect condition save for the still as of yet unexplained insatiable gas thirst everyone here knows about) for a very reasonable price. But the major problems you describe are going to cost you and in the end you're still left with a running, but fourteen year old car going on 200,000 miles. I remember very well being seventeen and that first car...oh man, you would do anything to not have to give it up. Unfortunately, sometimes you don't have a choice. By the way, I drove a 1982 VW Rabbit and was expecting to have to take that to my senior prom (1989) but instead my rich neighbor just up and offered his jet black with red racing stripe 740i to me for the night. Sadly, my girlfriend gave me the let's just be friends line a week before the dance, but that she would still go with me. Happily, I had the car and truly couldn't have cared less about her. What fun! Anyway, thanks for letting relive my youth and best of luck to you with your car!

I KNEW it!

I know nothing about auto mechanics and I've done this treatment several times in my '94 ES. There's nothing to it. Follow the instructions found in this thread or on a Google search and give it a go. I found it works best if you have someone in the driver's seat to give it a little gas as the Seafoam is being sucked up through the brake booster line (otherwise the engine tends to stall). Once it stalls and/or you've sucked up all the liquid, let it sit for ten minutes or so then just start it up. Prepare for ALOT of white/grey smoke out of the exhaust. As long as you can identify the brake booster line you're okay. Go for it, don't pay a dealer to do this (they probably wouldn't anyway.)

Hey Toys...I know you do and still appreciate all the advice I've received from you and the other experts here. I'm going to start with the plugs because it costs less and I know they need to be replaced anyway. Then if nothing I'll look into the injectors. I do agree, 14mpg means there is really something not right going on in there. It's a big engine and an old car...but it's not a Hummer.

Thanks all. Once the weather warms up a bit I'll get those plugs changed. Considered doing it myself but decided I was too much of an incompetent to tackle it. Cleaning the EGR however is something I can handle with my usual spring clean of the TB, etc... Thanks again. Must get above 14mpg of the wife will make me drive the Civic. Nooooooooooo!

Agree something is wrong. My '95 @ 245,000 miles gets 25-27 with mostly (65+ mph) highway driving. I check it at every fill up. Lower figure if more in-town driving. H-rated tires inflated to 34 psi front, 32 rear gives 2-3 mpg better economy and no appreciable handling difference at ordinary speeds, over the original V-rated ones at 26 psi. Hello folks, been quiet for awhile here on the boards. I've cleaned the MAF, TB, done Seafoam a few times, got the right tire pressure, drive very easy in the city, have replaced an O2 sensor (one of the two in engine), have no CEL on, and still my '94 gets like 14 mpg city regularly. I have not yet checked the injectors to see if one is stuck open and I have not changed the spark plugs. I doubt they've been changed for many years. Car runs very smoothly with no noticeable issues except the massive gas consumption. Don't have enough spare $$ to do both...any thoughts on what to tackle first...the injectors or the plugs? I am inclined to go with the plugs since it will be cheaper. But could really dirty plugs make THAT much of a difference in fuel efficiency? Any advice is appreciated.

Brilliant suggestion. I'll wait for another warmer than normal winter day here in Chicago and try this fix. Thanks, SK.

I was afraid this was the response I was going to get. :P

Since we're on the topic...the wind noise from the moonroof (when closed) has gotten louder and louder to the point where I have to have the shade closed while driving above 35 mpg. Since I like having the sun come through the glass this is unfortunate. It's an old car and the seal does leak a bit under driving rain (or an automatic car wash)...but is there anything to be done to quiet it?

Check to see that your moonroof is completely closed, and also take your key out of the ignition. Moonroof. Looked completely closed from outside, but apparently wasn't. Didn't think to check as it's cold in Chicago. Thank you sincerely!

Hello friends. My wife drove my '94 ES this weekend and returned it with a brand new sound I simply cannot figure out. After turning off the car, it's in park, brake on, etc..., open any door and immediately I hear beepbeepbeepbeep...beepbeepbeepbeep...beepbeepbeepbeep...beepbeepbeepbeep for like seven or eight seconds. Sounds to me like alert chimes I've heard from virtually every other car I've had when you either try to turn off and exit the car with the lights still on, with the ignition in the wrong position, or something like that. But NOTHING has changed in the car...it just beeps now every single time it's turned off...but not until the door is opened to get out. Closing the door does nothing, the beeping continues for about seven seconds. Any ideas?

Sure, It will work. In fact you might want to check to see if there is a wiring harness in the trunk for a CD player. It would be behind the trunk liner on the drivers side stuffed up on top of the wheel well. Much obliged!!

I've read back through old posts, but question still remains. In my '94 ES will a radio/tape deck with the CD button work? Currently I have FM1, FM2, AM, and TAPE buttons on the unit. They look exactly the same, but I know that the addition of the CD capability MAY make them incompatible despite the seller saying it's for 92-96 models of the ES. According to the seller on eBay this head unit will fit: ES300 92-94 rcver, ident# 86120-33020 rcver, ident# 86120-33021 Final question, seems from previous posts that I don't have to worry much about any security codes since I know the VIN and have the original key to the car. Thanks friends.

You can check out eBay. It seems folks are selling OEM decks (used) with CD controls... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-ES300...1QQcmdZViewItem

I'll back that up, NO........Here is the front and back: Thanks folks. Looks like the tape adaptor for me.

Trying to hook up an iPod with an FM transmitter or cassette adaptor. Found some good links to products on these boards, but can anyone answer me this question: does the 94 ES factory stereo have a CD input on the back? I only have FM1, FM2, FM3, and TAPE options on the front of the stereo. Much appreciated.

Of course you have checked/replaced the fuses, right?

Yup, I usually get about 50 before the full line is touched...and it's all quickly downhill from there! Please post your true miles per gallon after this tank is done.

Tyler...I also have a 94 ES and despite cleaning all the stuff you're supposed to clean in the engine, SeaFoaming twice, replacing O2 sensor, etc...I still get about 16mpg city. Adding acetone to each tank bumps that up to about 17 or so. On the highway I get upwards of 28mpg however. I'm interested in what your mileage is after you actually measure it (per ToysRMe suggestion). Try to only drive city during this tank so your reading is true.

I searched this topic, and only found a lot of us folks agreeing that for an expensive luxury car the cup holder system is not only cheaply made, but a design failure. Mine works fine, but I need to plug accessories into the cigarette lighter below the cup holder...can't use both at the same time as we all know. Anyone figured out any alternatives to this to allow for cups to be safely secured while traveling and still use the lighter/ashtray flip out portion of the console? Brilliant ideas welcome and appreciated!

Have done some of the above myself (air, tb, oil, filter, maf) but I think I need to get the plugs changed and decided long ago from reading through the forums that was a job a bit too complex for me. It seems like dirty plugs can cause some of these issues even if the car runs very smoothly, albeit sluggishly and drinks gas like there's no tomorrow (unless on highway when it's a champ--29mpg). Am I right?

What are the issues with the engine ? sluggish performance, very terrible mpg, stink from exhaust, seemingly too much exhaust

I suspect there are some issues that I need to address in my engine, however the CEL does not ever come on. How would I know if there is a problem with the light itself, or the signal to illuminate the light? Before you answer, is it as simple as just taking the car to have the codes read at Auto Zone? If so, please shoot me.

Noooo! I'm the lowest here with average city (Chicago) of 14.6 mpg, though the recent addition of acetone to each tank has boosted me up by 3mpg to 17.6. Once I change the plugs I hope to get a little more. On highway, however I get nearly 28 standard. Big difference.

Searched for this but couldn't locate anything. Cleaned the interior of my ES last weekend...normal Armor All and soft cloth, etc...like done many times before. Afterwards when I started the engine the tape deck clicked for about ten seconds, even with the radio on and playing...on the last click the radio shorts out briefly (a second) then returns and all is well. This happens now each and everytime I start the car. Tape deck will not accept any cassettes. Normally I would not care, except that I use it to hear my iPod. Hmmm...anyone have this problem? If I'm a fool and just need to take it to a stereo shop just call me an idiot and we're done with it. Thanks. --mrb