mrbutz1

Thanks both of youse for your replies. The car did indeed die on the way home, rush hour traffic on Lake Shore Drive in Chicago...not a great place to have a stalled car. I pushed that beast for about 100 yards to get it out of traffic and had it towed home. Then, of course, when I got home it started up just fine! I will investigate the fuel pump, fuel filer, and relay this week and let you all know. Hell, I may try to do the repairs myself I had fun replacing the fuel pressure regulator! All to avoid having to shell out the bucks for another car. Nooooooooooo! THANK YOU again for helping me out, I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge with me.

I'm considering that as I fearfully watch the clock tick towards 5pm and my drive home. In your opinion is swapping out the fuel filter and/or pump serious work? If you know of a good thread here with DIY instructions I would love the link to it. How would a mechanic diagnose the problem? Could it be anything else in your opinion, like a fuse or electrical? Thanks George Jetson!

Well the issue has returned unfortunately. In the past week twice the engine has cut off during driving (not hard acceleration, city driving) after about 15-20 minutes of operation. Oddly, if I let it sit for a few minutes I can re-start it and it works again. Once the CEL came on the other time it didn't. This morning was the most recent, driving about 20 mph, just OFF. I rolled to a stop, opened the hood, looked around, nothing evident, got back in and started her up. What on earth is going on?? It's been suggested that it's the fuel filter (could that be intermittent, though) or the fuel pump and I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Any and all replies are truly appreciated! Thanks. I had it checked out with a reader and it passed, no codes. Probably been like four or five starts and stops since the CEL came on, though. It appears to be running well now. I put in a fuel injector cleaner and a tank of high octane (I usually use reg). If you don't hear from me on this again it means the fix worked! Otherwise... THANK YOU, I so appreciate your help. --mrb

I had it checked out with a reader and it passed, no codes. Probably been like four or five starts and stops since the CEL came on, though. It appears to be running well now. I put in a fuel injector cleaner and a tank of high octane (I usually use reg). If you don't hear from me on this again it means the fix worked! Otherwise... THANK YOU, I so appreciate your help. --mrb

Okay, I'll get the codes checked today on my way home (if I make it!) Even if the CEL is out but was on yesterday, will the codes still be in there?

Well I pretended to be a mechanic yesterday after having the car towed home, got my knuckles all !Removed! (kinda cool actually) and all that, but managed to get the regulator out and replace it with the new one. I drove it for about half an hour around my house, no issues. Drove it the 15 miles into work this morning at highway speeds, no issues. Will let it sit while at work today and see how she goes home. If smooth, I believe I may have solved the problem. CEL is now off. Anyway, could the fuel filter or the fuel pump fail in such a way...intermittently I mean? Sometimes it works, but then it doesn't, etc... That part isn't an all or none part?

I know, gotta get the codes but I'm afraid to drive the damn thing to the AutoZone a few miles away! Car has about 150K miles and I don't know if the fuel filter is original or not, but I suspect at some point it's been changed.

I was told after a routine oil change at Midas that I needed my fuel pressure regulator (1994 ES300) was bad and the tubing was cracked. I replaced the tubing and the car's been working fine but a couple days ago after driving for about 15 minutes it seemed to run out of gas, CEL came on, and car died. Two hours later I was able to drive it home 15 miles. Then it sat for a week, this morning I drove it to work, 15 miles at about 50mph for the most part, got to my parking spot and it died again...just like it's running on empty (which it isn't). Question is: can a bad fuel pressure regulator cause the engine to sputter and die? It seems unlikely to me, but I never actually replaced it. Any opinions would be truly appreciated before I call AAA and have it towed home. >:( THANK YOU!

Many thanks, have PM'd you. Anyone think the vacuum tubing can just be replaced on this instead off the regulator itself? It's the tubing that's ruptured (completely...how is the engine still running?!), I think the reg is still working...? Guy at Midas says tubing will rupture again unless new reg. Would rather save $$ since selling this car in the spring. Thanks!

Greetings! Anyone know of a thread or step by step to replacing the fuel pressure regulator on '94 ES300? Midas is asking $365 but the part is just $75 at the local AutoZone and I feel like it might be something I can do. I have some capability, but limited tools, etc... Would appreciate any help. --michael

Thanks, I'll check it out then decide to take it to a local car alarm/stereo shop and pay to have them do it!

That's actually not a bad suggestion at all, thanks. Due to the poor design of the cup holders/radio/ashtray in the 94 ES I constantly have whatever liquid I'm drinking on the way into work each morning splash or spill a little and it goes right onto the buttons of the radio. Now...can anyone point me to good detailed step-by-step of the radio removal for the 94 ES??

Greetings. Yesterday the 2, 3 and 4 preset buttons on my 94 ES radio stopped working. So, I resorted to the tried-and-true way of coping with non-functioning electronics and hit them with my fist. They worked! Then today they cut out again. Hitting unsuccessful. Any ideas for a quick diagnosis or fix? Or...is my radio finally crapping out after 15 years? Many thanks.

So...anyone got the quick fix or what search terms I should input to find it...? What I've found refers to the inner door panels generally. Thanks.

Haha...well, this comment was not at all helpful, but it did make me laugh out loud. I tried to keep washing it every week during the Chicago winter, but gave that up a couple winters ago...utterly useless.

Attached are three pics of what I feel is probably a common problem...the damn lower outer door panels coming lose and catching on the curb, snow, whatever as soon as people get in the car. Yeah, I know I can take it to a body shop, but is there a QUICK FIX that would adhere them to the actual door so they don't hang off and look terrible. BTW...the hanging part in my pics has since fully come off, but the issue remains. I look forward to learning about the creative solutions you all have come up with! As always, thanks.

Good advice from both of you! Thanks much. Me thinks the rattle will indeed continue into the warmer months. I know taking the door off will take me hours and I'll end up getting so cold and *BLEEP*edoff that I make things worse. Again, thank ye!

Hello Friends, Been awhile since I've visited. I guess that means the car's been working pretty well which is good. Nice to see old names still here on the boards. Mystery: About three weeks ago during a cold snap I went to open the passenger door (from the outside) and though unlocked the handle did not open the door, it just went up and down as you tried, no tension evident, nothing. At same time a VERY annoying and loud rattle from the passenger door emerged, only quieted when I would put the window down 1/4" or more...not really feasible in Chicago during the winter. Anyone ever had this happen? I am assuming something just came loose in there, requiring me to remove the interior door panel and take a look. But before I do that I wanted to ask y'alls' opinions. Someone tell me the magic word to fix this so I don't have to sit in the frigid misery and take the car apart! Happy new year.

Whoa, almost my exact question. Very rainy and humid day in Chicago yesterday and my defrost was nonexistent. I mean NO removal of condensation from the windshield or side windows. My AC was recharged last summer (15 months ago) and did not work this summer, but the AC light comes on and stays on, but I don't notice a change in the vibration or hum of the engine (nor any appreciable movement on the tach) when I press on and off. Bad compressor? Car is undrivable in any weather that produces condensation in this state. But $1,300? No way the wife will put up with that for a 14 year old car! Thoughts and advice appreciated.

Thanks. I guess I should have mentioned that I know this about highway vs city driving...my Lexi gets nearly 28 on straight highway in general. But for four months since I started the new job my commute has been the same...30 miles 5 days a week in the same conditions as mentioned previously. But the mpg have steadily increased even though I started four months ago doing the same thing I've been doing ever since...i.e. the highway percentage of the miles is the same as it was, yet the miles per tank keep going up. That's the [happy] mystery. It's no biggie, I was just curious if the car's brain can adapt over time to new driving conditions.

For two years I only drove my '94 ES around town in Chicago, averaging about 16 mpg. Four months ago I took a new job which requires a daily round trip of 30 miles, 24 of which are on Lake Shore Drive moving either about 5-10 mph in the morning or a steady 50 mph going home. I don't drive in the city stop and go traffic light/stop sign anymore and my mpg have steadily risen. I used to get about 200 miles before my empty light would come on (requiring about 15.5 gallons at each fill up), then I got 225, then 250, then 275, then 300 and last tank was 325 -- all on about 15-16 gallons. What's going on here? Does the ECU learn a new driving style and adapt the engine to it? Or did God step in to prevent my wife from forcing me to sell this massive V6 when we've got the highest gas prices in the US?

I had my AC system checked at the beginning of last summer (all clear) and then just had refrigerant added. It worked fine. Now it does not appear to be working at all, though the compressor was obviously working all through the Chicago winter for defrost. Does this mean I just need to charge it up again...I thought that was supposed to last for a couple years. Perhaps there is a leak now? Nooooooooooooo!

Thanks to those that have responded. Follow up question: if the needles are not yet fully burnt out (e.g. the tach needle will illuminate fully for about 30- seconds on start up then die completely) is there any emergency trauma surgery available to save them? Or is it once they start to go that's it...they'll come on maybe at start up but then will die? Thanks again to all! :)

Hello friends, Been gone for awhile as my Lexi has been running so smooth. Unfortunately at 14 years old and 140K on the odometer my gauge needle lights are all but gone on the tach and speedo. I have indeed spent the last 45 minutes reading through the search results. I am great at my job as a hospital administrator, but don't know a dang thing about repairs, soldering, LEDs, waterfalls, OHMs, weights, etc... Also don't want to spend hundreds of dollars but damnandblastit I can't see the needles anymore!! What's the easiest fix for this...OR...if I can locate another 94 ES cluster on eBay or whatever can it just be swapped out just like that and all the gauges will read correctly? I've read quite a bit about them being inaccurate after messing around in there. If that happens I'm screwed...I'm worthless with this stuff! I know this topic has been discussed ad infinitum, but...? Thanks.

My empty light comes on when my count down range display shows ~20 miles. I then fill the tank it takes anywhere from 15 to 16.5 gallons to fill. Given that display is not the most accurate and that I have an 18.5 gallon tank, I would say that my 02 ES behaves similarly to your ES. you're fine. steviej Thanks folks...