jeffls400

I bought leather seats from this same place with the intention of doing the job myself. After receiving the seats I opted to have them professionally installed. It cost me $500.00 but was worth every penny. The pros spent 12 hours replacing the foam and installing the new leather seats. Porbably woud have taken me twice as long. i would have never been so patient and would have screwed the job up. It came out beautiful. Also, the guys who installed them said that the quality of the seats I purchased was better than the replacement leather seat covers sold at the Lexus Dealer. Good Luch Hi pfleyva, Where did you take them? I am assuming you are in OC? My leather is decent, just want to find someone to redo my foam. Jeff

I have been using conventional oil with a Toyota filter on my 1991 LS400 with 216K miles since purchasing the car in June 2006, with 135K miles. Oil change intervals have been 5K and I change the oil myself. Below is an oil analysis from my latest oil change. All seems well with the engine based upon this single data point of empirical analysis. So, I have used synthetic in the past in other cars, but based on my experience, regular changes with a conventional oil and the Toyota filter are just fine if that is your inclination. LS400_212925.pdf

All cylinders rely on the same igniter, so if you are having an issue where you go from 8 cylinders to 4 cylinders, I would bet it is one of the two ignition coils, or perhaps the cables associated with them.

Had the same problem with my 91 LS400. Culprit for me was the coolant temperature sensor that threads into the radiator on the lower driver's side.

Hello all, My wife's 2008 RX350 with 18" wheels exhibited the same problem on the original Goodyears...inner tire wear, weird cupping. They were replaced at 28k miles with Kumho Road Venture APT KL51 and a four wheel alignment was performed. I have since adjusted tire pressure to 36psi with no major ride deterioration. After 7k miles and one rotation, the tires are wearing beautifully and am really impressed with the Kumhos. I have Kumhos on my LS and those have been solid as well. On a related note, we previously had a Highlander (similar underpinnings) that went through the original Toyo tires in about 30k miles, with the same strange wear patterns. Both vehicles for the record were diligently maintained in terms of inflation and rotation. Jeff

In my case, my brake light failure module had failed. If interested, see my first post in the below linked thread for my repair that worked great for me. Brake Lights Not Working?

Brake Lights Out See my post with my repair in the thread above. This could be your issue. Jeff

On my 1991, the VIN is on a tag mounted on the passenger side of the block near the front edge. I happened to see it when I was replacing my PS pressure and return hoses. Jeff

:( Unfortunately not. I had the same idea until I researched the bolt pattern.

Main is before the catalytic converter.

I replaced myself. You only need to drop pan, remove screen, and remove one bolt and unplug the solenoids.

I was faced with the same issue...what I would do is replace both solenoids (#1 and #2 are same part number), since you are in there anyway and based on mileage, go ahead and replace the screen. Then you can do the flush / refill routine and you will be amazed at the smoothness of your transmission. I am fairly confident that there was no damage caused to the transmission by having a non-responsive solenoid. Try one of the online dealers (Carson, Sewell) for the solenoids...you will save big money. Jeff

Blake, I believe that your transmission issue is a sticking solenoid #2. This is reasonably common on higher mileage LS400s. I think if you order the part online ($150-$200), you can install yourself or have a shop do it. Then a flush with Toyota T-IV and the transmission will probably go for as long as you need it to. I imagine your ticking is the common valvetrain noise and/or fuel injectors and is pretty innocuous. Enjoy your car! Jeff

I will try to work on getting this up tonight.

I installed a Delphi RoadyXT in the ash tray compartment by removing the ash receiver. Mounting was accomplished by modifying the bracket for the radio and then epoxying in place. When parked, I remove the XM unit and close the ash tray compartment. The power cord for the unit was run under the console where it was connected to an auxiliary DC power jack. The antenna cable was run under the carpet and back seat to the trunk opening where it was mounted above the rear window. Other than a small hole drilled in the ash tray compartment, no mods were required and would be virtually impossible to detect if removed. I also use the FM modulator. Let me know if anyone wants to see some pics and I will take a few and post. Jeff

If you are referring to the oil level light (amber) and not the oil pressure light (red), I had a similar problem when cruising at high speed. The oil on the dipstick was just below 1/2 way between the two marks so I added a little bit of fresh oil and have not seen the light since. The sender that is mounted near the filter is the oil pressure switch. The sender for the oil level sensor is on the other side of the engine. Hope this helps. Jeff

If you open the trunk, the module is on the upper left of the trunk, just to the right of the trunk hinge. You have to remove a couple of screws that hold the carpet in place but it is a little black box the size of a playing card deck, with one electrical connection. The warning light that you are seeing...is it yellow or red?

In my case, that is accurate. The warning bulb failed to light up upon start-up in the gauge cluster and that was the only warning (but I already knew the brake lights were out anyway).

I had this same problem a couple of weeks ago. There was no issue with the brake switch or grounds in my case. The Lamp Failure module in the trunk had failed and kept the brake lights from working at all. As you may know, these are quite expensive so I soldered jumpers inside the module (it's easy to open up) to bypass the circuitry that let's you know when a bulb is out. I soldered jumpers between terminals 9 and the brake lights (1,2,6 as labeled on the attached diagram) on the printed circuit board and it works great. See the attached diagram to see where the respective terminals are. The module is labeled "Light Failure Sensor". Jeff Stoplight_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

Wurth makes a well-respected Silver Wheel paint and a Clear Top Coat. For reference, this color would be very similar to a BMW or Audi wheel finish from the factory. It is available online.

The blower motor resistor is mounted inside the evaporator / blower motor housing. I think you would have to remove the entire assembly to switch out. It resides behind the glovebox and its removal would require evacuating the a/c system.