saltyreefguy

I saw this in the repair manual too and it confused me. I think that the solenoid's DC resistance should not be more than a few Ohms. If you repeat your measurement using a finer scale you will probably read a few Ohms and not zero. Or, at least that's what I think! The test that i did was checking the measurement from the ecm/connector to the ground, and the following test was for the solenoid, is that the test you must be referring to correct?

when you say ' inline filter ' is that the filter that comes with the tranny filer replacement or totally differernt, by any chance you might have a pic of it. its a internal filter, correct? ps. so whats a real good tranny slush additive? also today i tested the resistance on the connector from the ecu going to the solenoid/tranny, according to the service manual, there's suppose to 8-100,000ohm, but when i tested, it read 0.00, if then the manual says to replace ecu, so i found one for $75.00 will pickup tomorrow and test.

i did replace the tranny fluid yesterday, and drove it abit and code still there. i did order a pan gasket, so i can take a look at the solenoids and see it any debris and check the operation. i noticed the tranny fluid taken out was not redish in color, but more like the color of slightly used motor oil, so the new fluid was replaced, i checked this morning for fluid level and the redish color of new fluid was gone and its color changed to again the slight used motor oil color, does it mean it needs a tranny flush or why is the color changing? i am going to add some seafoam, prior to dropping the pan to check the solenoids , is that a good idea of a flush or should i be using another product? thanks for any replys...

i totally agree with you on that. i usually do all my work on the car, and no problems that i couldn't get out of yet. today i replaced the tranny fluid just to see if the new fluid will do any good, reset the code and got it almost immed. as usual. guess its time to take the meter and start tracing. i did order a gasket the other day, just to drop the tranny pan and take at look at the solenoids myself and hopefully a loose wire. Here's question for you, is the toyota brand tranny fluid the same color as the standard dexron fluid from any other maker besides toyota? and thanks your advices... also, would you or anyone else know where the solenoid connector on the tranny is located? is it visible from looking down between the battery and other crevices? thanks...

nothing of that sort, works perfect, was thinking maybe a loose wire from the ecm? possible?

i have downloaded the code with my obd11 scanner and it came up with p0401 and p0773, i fixed the p0401 but the p0773( shift solenoid e) code still comes up, after erasing almost immediately, has anyone else had this problem? i read where one person replaced theirs(but pricey), and the dealer quoted me the price of 252.00, and another person tried to fix their problem by putting some 'seafoam' then replacing the tranny fluid. but never found the answer, can someone put some help on whats going on with this particular solenoid, and replacing is the only answer? thanks...

i have the same situation, but i did replaced the modulator, egr responding normal, but cel came back, i only pull the battery for about 10 minutes, the cel came with 5 to 10 mins. so i was thinking how to check the vaccum sensors since they are attached to modulator/egr. do you guys know how its done.? jko. did do that while you were trying to fix your problem.

i took mines off it took a few extra minutes, cause the rest of the bolts are on the backside of the egr towards the firewall, i use a small cratsman ratchet with a small extension with the socket, and its got a metal gaskets for the 2 openings.

i swapped mines with no mods. a perfect replacement and so easy to do.

i have the same problem, mine seems to smoke at the firewall side, to me that means a oil leak from the rear valve cover possibly leaking on the exhaust pipes, haven't had a chance to get underneath a take a good look, since having a broken back, it's not easy taking off the vavle covers. but then another item to put on the to do list.

thats what i did, i swapped the stock for the highlander, and not even a flicker of dimming. but since i will be adding more amps, then i have to even get a bigger alt. but then thats the way things go..

Contact your lexus dealer and ask them where they send there cars for body work, Then contact the body shop and buy the clips from them. They probably have tons of them. I beleive there is a thread about climate control lights here somewhere. Search thanks,

i am looking to buy some fastener or clips that are used on a 96 es300, clips for the door, rear panels, etc.. would like to buy in bulk hopefully. does anyone know of a place to buy them. or only dealer?. thanks, also would anyone know where to buy a replacement bulb for the climate control display, there are 3 total. or only dealer?

modulator is what I meant to say. my 95 es has the same cel right now. I'm scared to buy a new egr and then it may be the modulator, as mentioned. I don't have a vacum tester, any other way to check it. I have a 94 es300 that had a P0401 code and I just replaced the vacuum modulator. I purchased a new one, and before I installed it I compared it to the old one. What i noticed was the diaphragm on the old one was completely dried out. It would not hold a vacuum when applied to the bottom hole. The new one did. If you don't have a vacuum tester just hook a vacuum line to it and use your built in vacuum pump :-). Just because I am a curious sort I took apart the old one, and it was completely dried up and has some sort of liquid inside it ?? I assume it is condensation, but who knows ?? I was kind of easter egging to figure out what was wrong, but I did get some good info from this site... could i ask you where is the modulator located on a 96 es300? also there was a link to download a manual for a camry, but since then my pc crashed and lost all the pdf files on the vechile, since the camry is similiar to the lexus. thanks, if you could help. sorry would have sent you a pm, instead of bringing up this old thread, but the site will not allow me yet.

toysrme, question for you i tried this on my wifes 96 es300 check light, i did everything per instructions on jumping ' te1/e1' but the check light is still lit solid will not blink for codes, any ideas if i am doing it wrong?

hello, Just to start off, a great site: I purchased a viper 791xv alarm, i would like to install myself, since i am new to the site i am not able to 'pm' anyone yet, so i am starting a new thread, i have few questions if anyone can offer some help: 1996 es300 1. would like to keep factory alarm working conjuction with new aftermarket(do i have to setup it a special or particular way?) 2. does it require any other parts like relays, (bypass) modules, etc.. 3. has anyone already installed one on this model and know the particular wiring colors for starter, ignition, tach, etc.. (and of course i will double check with my ohmeter, not being lazy) 4. i will be installing a aftermarket stereo, (clarion 935, flip/touch), so i will be running all my wires at the same time with alarm install, so any advice?, already the all the stereo equip. metra stereo kit, 4 tweets,4 mids, 2 ppi's amps(art series), and 2 jl audio subs, blah, blah... (wife's car, but i like nice tunes)