kashi125

New sensors arrived today. I tried taking off the old sensor and it is seized in the manifold. After doing some research it seems like this is a common problem. I bought a can of PB Blaster and am going to spray close to the thread area and let it soak overnight. Part numbers for reference (this is for a 1999 Lexus ES300): Bank 1 (back of the engine, by the firewall) Sensor 1: Toyota / Lexus part number: 89467-41021 Denso equivalent part number for this sensor is: 234-9007 Bank 2 (front, by the radiator) Sensor 1: Old Toyota / Lexus part number: 89467-48010 New (improved) Toyota / Lexus part number: 89467-48011 Denso equivalent part number for this sensor is: 234-9009 I bought the Denso sensors on Amazon for $126 each and free shipping. Local Lexus dealer quoted $220 each and online Lexus dealer was $170 each.

From what I understand, the OS/firmware/software is loaded into the nav unit and the only thing it reads off the DVD is the map data. This is why once you load a newer version of the software, you can not use an older DVD. I would go about fixing it in this order: 1) Buy the lens cleaner CD that I mentioned in the previous post. Let it do its job and then see if the nav works. 2) If above doesn't work, buy a newer version of the Nav DVD. This is for your 2002 ES300, right? You will want a Gen 2/3 DVD. It doesn't have to be the latest version (8.1). You can buy version 4 or 5 etc if you can find one on eBay and it should be pretty cheap since that is ~5 years old. Still, it will be newer than the one you have in your car right now from 2001. I don't recommend jumping straight to step 2, because if your lens is dirty, a newer DVD won't do you any good. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

For a minute there, I thought you got the O2 sensor for $1400 :D Sounds like the car was well taken care of. Hope you get many more miles out of it!

The fact that the car was used in a different geographic zone shouldn't matter. If you click on "Dest" tab, in the screen that comes up, is the address button grayed out or can you click it? I have seen this problem (grayed out address, POI buttons etc) in older cars where dust has accumulated on the lens and it has problems reading the DVD. Using a CD/DVD lens cleaner CD from BestBuy solved the problem on my friend's car. It is a special CD with small bristles on it, as it rotates, the bristles clean the dust off the lens. You might want to give that a shot.

What code did you get on the scanner?

I drove around a little bit today to see if the car re-learns the correct idle RPM. It seems to have improved a little bit. It doesn't stall and die any more, but I think the RPM is still low as I can feel a little vibration when the car is parked and idling. I have attached a picture of the tach with car started and transmission in P. Can someone with a 2002 ES300 compare this with theirs and tell me if this normal? As you can see in the picture, my needle sits at the 3rd mark from the bottom. What about yours?

Thanks for the input everyone. I re-checked the MAF connector and all hoses yesterday and it seemed fine. stcist2--I was thinking the same thing (car might need to re-learn how to idle). Have you experienced the same thing in the past? How long did it take to return to normal idle RPM?

I would just like to add that the car was running perfectly fine before I cleaned the MAF and replaced the filter. So is it still possible that the problem is a dirty throttle body?

I checked the resistance on bank 2 sensor 1 heater and it is an open circuit. Since this sensor is definitely faulty, I have to replace it. Is it good practice to replace other sensors at the same time, even if they are OK?

I replaced the air filter on my 2002 ES300 today. While I was at it, I decided to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner. I also disconnected the battery for 20 mins or so in order to erase the previously learned settings. Now when I try to start the car, it either doesn't start, or if it starts, it is at very low RPM and then dies after 20 seconds or so. I made sure none of the hoses is disconnected from the air intake. I have used CRC MAF cleaner in the past on another car without any problems. Any ideas?

Hi All, I was out of town so didn't get a chance to do any more work on this. I'll update my post #5 with further steps that I take on this shortly. Shaun, have you checked the voltage between HAFL / HAFR of ECM connector and body ground? (See attached screenshot).

Great, thanks a lot! I'll work on this tomorrow. As promised, I am updating the post with the steps I have taken so far. STEP 1: Erase codes in case it was a false CEL. I erased them by disconnecting the positive battery terminal for 10 minutes. Started car, no CEL. But CEL came back after driving a couple of miles. STEP 2: Clean MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. I used CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner purchased from Auto Zone for around $7. Cleaning is super easy. Locate the MAF sensor (on the air intake) and unplug the cable from it. The sensor comes off by taking off the two screws holding it to the intake. If you look down the tube in the sensor, you will see two metal wires. Mine were super dirty. After 3 or 4 sprays of the cleaner, they looked shiny as new. I also cleaned the temperature(?) sensor located on the outside of the MAF sensor. It is the round thingy connected to the plastic body of the sensor by two wires. Let everything dry for about 15 minutes and then put the sensor back and attach the sensor cable. Unplugged battery cable again to erase codes. Started car, no CEL. Drove 3 miles and CEL was back! However I must say that there was a significant difference in the pickup of the car after MAF cleaning. Note: If I can find the specs of the MAF sensor I will take readings on mine and compare them just to make sure that it is indeed in working condition. A simple cleaning might not be enough to resurrect a dead sensor. STEP 3: Check the bank 2 sensor 1 heater. (This sensor is located right in front of you when you open the hood, between the radiator and the engine). Sensor resistance is infinite (open circuit). Trying to decide whether to replace just this sensor or all the sensors. STEP 4: -- In progress --

George, Thanks for your response and for leading me in the right direction. Based on your suggestion, I will ignore code P0125 for now. Do you know what the normal resistance is supposed to be on the sensor heater? And how do I measure it (what terminals / wires)?

Hi Everyone, I recently had the Check Engine and TRAC OFF lights go off. Got codes read by AutoZone and they are: P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control P1153 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P1133 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1155 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) Over the last two days I have read every single post on this forum about these codes, but there is no comprehensive step-by-step list to troubleshoot them. I am hoping that through other people's help and my own experience of fixing this, I can make this post a useful resource for future readers. I will post updates as I go through troubleshooting this. So, back to my problem. It is a 1999 ES300 with 150K miles. O2 sensors have never been replaced. I have a few questions: 1) Is it normal for multiple oxygen sensors to go bad simultaneously? 2) Is there a way to check to see if an oxygen sensor is working properly (resistance reading etc)? 3) Could all the other codes be due to a faulty thermostat (causing P0125)? I did notice that the engine temperature gauge on the instrument panel of this car sits way below the halfway mark when the engine is warm. On the other hand, in my 97 ES300, the gauge was almost at the halfway mark. Same with my 02 ES300. 4) Is there a way to check if the thermostat is working properly? Thanks in advance for your help!

Norm, The map update DVD will not add any new features to your nav system. It won't change the look, and it won't allow you to input the address by voice. The only thing that the DVD does is change the map data. That is, it adds new subdivisions, roads, points of interest etc to your map database. If you are currently satisfied with the nav, I would suggest save your $300 and wait another 1 or 2 years before upgrading.

If it does, there is a switch right by the shifter to change the suspension mode to "Sport" etc. If you don't see that switch, you don't have variable suspension.

If possible, make sure you get one from a private owner with all the records. Basically, you want to get one with proof of oil changes (to avoid the oil gelling issue). Other than that, it is an extremely reliable car. You won't regret it.

Make sure you have the latest Magnetic Clutch Relay. This is also the solution if your AC works intermittently and the light flashes sometimes. Old relay part #: 90987-02022 New relay part #: 90987-02028 Reference: TSB EL009-05 A/C - Inoperative/A/C Light Flashing The relay is located in the fuse box under the hood. The part # is printed on the side of the relay. If yours has the old part number, just replace it with a new one. 5 minute fix. A new relay costs ~$60.

Maybe I am missing something--but if the front bumper was damaged because you hit the car in front of you as a result of this guy hitting you from the back, then it should be covered.

Did they replace the brake pads when they replaced the rotors 3 years ago? You might want to make sure you have the matching rotors and pads as referenced in "TSB BR002R-02 Brakes - Front Brakes Vibrate" See point #1 in my post here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=48464

And here is a zoomed image showing the cushion attachment

Here ya go TSB.pdf

Had the same problem when I bought my 02 ES300. There is a TSB that covers the 02-06 ES regarding the rear windows. TSB - EL010-06 - Body - Rear Power Window(s) Inoperative You can look it up if you have an ALLDATA subscription. Or I can send you a PDF (not sure if its OK to upload a copy here) If window doesn't work next time, try this: 1. Turn the ignition ON and start the engine. 2. Open and close the door 4 times while pressing the power window switch in the down direction. If this works then your window motor is fine and the problem is the cushion on the glass door run as explained in the TSB.

Check out this thread http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=48640

Lexucan, thanks for posting a working link Does anyone have the 2002 ES300 FSM?