kashi125

Removing the door panel is not that hard. Takes about 10 mins total. Getting to the actuator, I can't speak for that since I didn't pay attention to it when I was fixing the window. lol--have you looked at the 2010 ES350 in person? I need to go do that. In the pictures it looks too Camry-ish.

Yep, sounds like the lock actuator. Had the same problem on my 98 Camry once. The part should cost around $150 for OEM from an online Lexus dealer. Hard part will be getting to the actuator to replace it. If you need any tips on removing the rear door panel, let me know. I recently had to remove it to fix my rear window. (I am assuming this is for your 03 ES300, which should be similar to my 02 ES300)

Hi, I am looking for instructions on how to remove the rear door panel on a 2002 Lexus ES300. Something broke inside and my window does not stay up any more. I can see a white plastic piece stuck between the window and the door frame. Does anyone have Rear Door Panel Removal instructions from the FSM? I will really appreciate it if you can upload the PDF here or PM me. Thanks!

At 130K miles, 99% chance it is your strut mounts. Does the noise get worse in cold weather?

The reason it can't be inspected is that a visual inspection doesn't tell you anything at this age and miles. When I replaced the original belt on my 10 year old car with 150,000 miles, the belt LOOKED practically brand new. I told the mechanic that "hey, this looks new even after 10 years" and he picked up the belt and bent it at which point it cracked in several places. Moral of the story, don't wait, especially if you have an interference engine.

I think you can go two more years--but again, better safe than sorry. I recently changed the timing belt on my 99 ES300 with 150K miles. The belt "looked" OK but at this age the rubber has become pretty weak and can break at any time. Your 2002 has an interference engine so if the belt breaks you are looking at big $ for repairs. BTW, I bought the water pump + timing belt + cam and crank seals OEM online for around $130 and paid an independent mechanic to replace all these parts for $300.

danfall--that is awesome! I'm glad to hear that your problem is fixed. Thanks a ton for uploading the pictures and posting your success story. This is what adds value to this forum--people posting the results, so that future readers can know what works or doesn't work. lol @ "Dr." I'm no expert, in fact whatever I learned when I ran into this problem was from this forum. I was able to fix my problem for under $300 when it would have easily cost >$1000 at a dealer. P.S: Before changing the sensor, it is a good idea to disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnecting the negative terminal for 10-15 mins erases the codes in the memory. Then when you put the new sensor in, the check engine light will be OFF when you start the car. During the next 5-10 mins of driving, the car will check the sensor voltages and put out a code again if there is still a problem.

danfall--if you are only getting p1155, it is for your Bank 2 Sensor 1. This sensor is located right in front of the engine. When you open the hood, you should see it (between the radiator and the engine, on the exhaust manifold). Very easy to replace. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. The Denso catalog is showing the same part number for this (234-9021) as mentioned above. This can be had on Amazon for $126 with free shipping: Denso 234-9021 If Amazon is out, they sometimes have a third party selling it but you will have to pay shipping. Now the funny thing is that Amazon site says it does not fit a 2001 ES300, but Denso catalog says that it does. Same thing happened when I ordered the sensor for my 99 ES300. Amazon said it didn't fit, but I ordered it any way (based on Denso catalog) and it worked fine.

No, didn't hear back from the OP. What code(s) are you getting?

How many miles on the car? If it is above 120K and struts/strut mounts have never been replaced, it is probably your strut mounts. When you replace the strut mounts, replace the struts too. It is about $200 more in parts for OEM struts, but nothing extra for labor since they have to take out struts to get to the strut mounts. I replaced front struts and mounts on my 99 ES300. Lexus wanted to charge me $1400 total. I paid $450 total. $150 for labor at a trusted mechanic and $300 for OEM Lexus struts and mounts from online Lexus dealer.

I suggest using OEM belt and parts. You won't have to worry about it for another 90K miles.

I am surprised to hear that they have a 10" wire. On Denso website the description for this part number says: "Denso "first time fit" planar air fuel sensor, original equipment direct plug in, no wire cutting. 13.78 in. wire length." Did it fit? And is your check engine light gone now?

Some wind noise is common in these cars. Had it in both my 97 and 99 ES.

You will need: - Timing belt - Timing belt cover gasket (two--one for each cover) - Water pump - Water pump gasket (comes with water pump, but make sure) - Toyota red coolant (the big bottle, I think its 1 gallon) - Best to change other 2 drive belts at the same time - Best to change the cam seals and crank seals at the same time (2 cam, 1 crank)

This is the code for your Bank 1 Sensor 1. This sensor is located on the back of the engine. Buy the part and replace it yourself or have a mechanic replace it for you. It is not hard to replace, but hard to reach if you don't have the right tools. Mechanic shouldn't charge more than $30-40 for this. You can buy the sensor from your Lexus dealer, or save a lot of money and pay half for a Denso sensor. Denso makes the OEM Lexus sensors, so there is no difference other than the "Toyota" stamp on the sensor ;) Unless your car is California spec, this is the sensor you should buy: Link If the sensors have never been replaced, I recommend replacing Bank 2 Sensor 1 at this time too. At this mileage it is going to malfunction sooner or later. Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the exact same sensor and this one is very easy to replace. It is right there in the front of the engine and you can see it when you open the hood. If you run into any problems PM me. I replaced both sensors on my 99 ES recently.

Buy the DVD from here or your local dealer (will be more expensive than online): http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/parts_det...03904&all=Y It comes with instructions.

Buy the DVD from here or your local dealer (will be more expensive than online): http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/parts_det...03904&all=Y It comes with instructions.

Part numbers for the sensors you need are: 89467-41030 89467-41040 OEM online will cost you $149 each. If you don't see this price, PM me. Denso replacement for these is: 234-9021 This can be had on Amazon for $126 with free shipping: Denso 234-9021 Same sensor will work for both bank 1 and bank 2. (The OEM sensors are the same, except the difference in the length of the wire. One is 10" and one is 13". The Denso sensor has a 13" wire so it works in both locations). I recently replaced both sensors on my car with Denso (Denso makes the OEM sensors) so if you have any questions let me know.

This is awesome! Thanks a lot. Gives me the courage to perform this DIY on my car.

I have seen numerous posts from people who experienced the same issue. Seems like using a glue gun solved the problem, at least for a while. I have yet to perform this fix myself so I can't speak from my own experience.

Update: The car started idling fine after about a day/60miles of driving around. I didn't clean the throttle plate, but will do when I get a chance.

If you replace/fix this, please post some pictures of the process (removing rear deck etc). A lot of people including me have this blown sub problem on the ES. Thanks!

Get the codes read from AutoZone for free and bring them to the shop.

Awesome! Glad to know it worked out.

Yes, I think they are both the same except for wire length. One is 13" and one is 10". wow you got a great deal at $110 each. Since you are in Houston too, which Toyota did you purchase at?