VBdenny

VMF, Another thing to check is to make sure that the hose that goes to the vacuum manifold isn't kinked. I think Lexus uses some kind of speed sensitve steering. The faster you goe, the harder the effort is suppose to become. Does it doe okay on the BQE, or just at slower speeds?

Where did you get the clear lenses from?

I never use a power buffer even though I have one. I actually enjoy hand waxing and as the previous post said, it can damage the paint unless you are careful. I always feel it leaves swirl marks in the paint. I'll bet the 430 looks great. Have you posted a picture in the gallery? As to the 350 in the cutlass, yeah. I put the Crager SS's on because I always liked them. They are still available as I saw the in Hot Rod magazine yesterday and you can get 16" rims. Time and money my friends.

sweet! it's nice having both

You don't want to see the engine. It has 155HP from a 4.1L (250cid) six. Three on the tree. I bought the car for $400 in 1978 and most of the time it just sits in the garage. I painted it myself (for the second time) in 1990 and that's what you see. I'm planning to put a 350 Chevy engine with a 4 speed. I want something that makes some noise. But life is busy and I haven't gotten to it yet.

I'll just do an attachment. It's on my digital camera

yeah, but how do you make the picture show up in the post?

My gagage is full too. I've got my 66 Cutlass in one side all the time, then I either have my truck or the Lexus in the other. My mototrcyle is tucked in the back somewhere, TV, Fridge, toos etc. This is the first year I haven't run my lawn sprinkers once. We are about to float away. It means a lot of Lexus washing, but that's what I do for fun anyway. Good luck with the cleaning man. Your car looks awesome when it's waxed. Black is very nice but way too hot for me here (usually). White is my preferred color in the South.

I'm in Virginia Beach right now (my main place). My wife works in NJ so I'm up there often. Raining here for the 3rd week in a row. I'm starting to feel like I'M in Seattle! I have a big 2 car gagage so I can wax on rainy days anyway. Are you using a clay bar first? There's some good stuff on it in the detailing forum. Denny

The clay IS really awesome. It makes the paint like absolute glass. I got it at Advance Auto Parts for about $12 I think. The kit came with Mothers detailing spray. One very important thing about clay though. Be REALLY careful, NOT to drop it!

I agree that it's an all day or two day job to do it right. If the car hasn't been waxed in awhile and you put it Gold Classic over the entire car, and wait awhile, you will have your work cut. out. First it's very important to clean the paint prior to putting any wax on. I use Maquire's #1 Paint Cleaner, but there are many other good products. If you put the wax on without cleaning the paint, you will trap dirt and oxidation under the wax. I used Gold Classic for two years and I really liked it. One great shine. Only lasts a month or so, which wasn't a problem because I wax it every month anyway. This spring I started using Collinite 845 Insulator wax and have since given my Gold Classic to my neighbor who isn't as picky as I am.

Gotta agree on a great price. Hey C&D whats your location? If the car has been through bad winters it can drop the price.

I'd be interested in hearing more details. Is it rotor and caliper replacement? Does it work with the ABS?

When I use to live in Tulsa, they had "gasohol" which had a 10% mixture of alcohol. Man.. everything in my fuel system started leaking, fuel pump, hoses, even the tank! Apparently alcohol really destroys rubber unless it is made specifically not to. I wouldn't ever intentionally put any alcohol in my car. Every knows alcohol and cars don't mix (except the feds).

Synthetic oils are completely compatable with conventional oils. You can even mix them. Valvoline makes a blend of each called Durablend or Duralube. It's alot cheaper than full synthetic but still offesrs some of the advantages of full synthetic. Personally, I wouldn't ever consider using anything but full synthetic. Engines are more expensive than oil.

Hey Todd. I use a detailing spray to buff out the wax. Make your baby SHINE! I use Collinite #845 Insulator wax. Lasts about year. I can't wait that long so I do it once a month. I like the collinite because it really holds the shine and nothing sticks to it. www.collinite.com if you want to check it out. I swear by it! Did the car again last Thursday.

Oh yeah, welcome to the forum

Todd or VMF might be able to help you out when they get on, they both have manuals

Sounds like an excellent price. I doubt you'll see a drop in the price when th 04's come out.

They sell them at most auto parts stores. The cheapest place to get them is Costco (Price Club). They have a package with two sizes for under $20.

The only difference I notice is worse fuel milage. I didn't think we had it in Norfolk but apparently I was wrong. As far a taxes... everybody gets taxed to death and now we get "fee'd" to death as well. Not only is the govt in my pocket, but now they are in my gas tank as well.

My brother told me that there is a new system where they turn the rotors while they are on the car. Suppose to be better because it gives a perfect balance. You might try to check it out.

There are places that offer what they call BILLSTEEN flush. They remove the oil filter and run and engine flush solution through the engine. This effectively removes all the sludge and deposits in the motor. I had it done on my Chevy and was quite impressed. If you have been running convention oil, this is a good idea. Synthetic is always better than conventional as it retains it's viscosity under extreme conditions. For cold weather start-ups it really protects better. I would not use 10W-30 oil in my Lexus. 5W-30 is the best. If you live in some freezing cold place, you might considier 0W-30 in the winter, and I guess if you're in some really hot place, 10W-30. Somehow I still feel it is best to use the exact oil the car was designed to use. Frequent oil changes with Synthetic oil is the key to a long running engine. I use Valvoline 5W-30 Full synthetic. Pep Boys is the only place that sells it around here. I change the oil every 3,000 miles. I think Amsoil and Mobil 1 are also great oils as well.

I guess I'm still at a loss for knowing what all this means. If my compressor doesn't engage and my light stays a steady green (doesn't blink) does that mean my compressor is okay? and something else is the problem? I've got a code 33 and I don't know what to do about it.

Great post Todd. From what I've read, reformulated gas really screws up your car. Since I am in the blue zone, it might explain why my milage is not up to that in AZ. If we really want to fight air pollution... perhaps we should gag a politician!