sgretchko

It is true, alot of dealers use bulk fluids and I generally have no problem with it when the fluid is the same formulation made by another manufacturer. In this case, the formula is different. The Dextron has an additive that makes it suitable for but not recommended for Toyota/Lexus because the formula is different. It may not make a difference, however, after 13 years and 188,000 miles the car has had OEM parts and fluids (where recommended) throughout. If my transmission fails, for whatever reason, I would like to think it was due to useage and wear rather than using improper fluid. You pay more for dealer service with good reason. One of those reasons is the confidence that appropriate parts and materials are used. They put in 5.5 quarts of fluid after repairing the seal. It should be the fluid specified by the factory, not a substitute. To their credit, once it was pointed out to the dealership they apologized and offered to fully flush, drain and exchange the fluid for Toyota T-4 at no charge. Everyone makes mistakes, it is the action taken after the mistake is discovered that determines the character of a person or entity. In this case, the dealership showed very good character.

I suggest ebay. We had an accident with a gallon of milk and decided to get a pre-owned mat. I bought it on ebay for about $25. You can also try washing your mat at a laundermat, I wash my floor mats and they come out great.

I also live in the Detroit area and have not been able to find an alternative to Meade Lexus. In fact, when I have tried to shop prices many independents have been higher than the dealer. Meade has always treated me well and they have occasional money saving promotions. That said, if you find a good independent please share.

A company named Technafit makes stainless steel lines for 95-00 LS's. I have seen them online for $109. For that price it seems worthwhile to give them a try, particularly if you are doing a complete brake overhaul. My 97LS has 187k and I will be redoing brakes soon. Since I have original rotors which have been turned twice, I will be replacing rotors. I would like to know your experience with new stainless lines, if it is good I might give them a try.

The Valvoline fluid will be flushed by the end of the week and replaced by Toyota T-IV. The spec sheet can be found on the Valvoline website on the Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF page. In the middle of the page it allows you to download the product PDF. If you give me your fax or email, I would be happy to get it to you. I am going to point it out to the dealership service manager and shop foreman, both of whom have always treated me very well. Beyond that, it is their business. I am only concerned that I have the recommended fluids and do not have a transmission problem caused by improper fluid. Thank you for viewing and adding your comments.

They used Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF (for cars with 75,000 or above). Looking at the spec sheet online, it is recommended where Dex II is specified but only suitable where various Toyota T-type fluids are used. The dealer uses it for efficency because it comes in bulk. If I was told, I would have gladly paid extra for the Toyota fluid. The hop may or may not be the transmission fluid, but I am very disappointed in the Lexus dealer. You pay for the recommended service, OEM parts and factory fluids at the dealer. You go to a quick lube for the "suitable". Now, the best way to get it out of my transmission. I could do a series of drains and fills. After 3 or 4 it should be mostly gone. The only way I know to remove it completely is a "power" flush which I hesitate to do. Open to ideas and suggestions, thanks.

My '97 LS with 186k has just had a new timing belt and major tune. In the course of the work, a leaking transmission pump seal was found. I had it repaired and transmission fluid added to replace the leaked fluid. It now has a little "hop or jump" when shifted into Drive or Park. It happens about half the time and the frequency seems to be decreasing. A senior Lexus tech told me not to worry about it. In addition, I found that Dextron II was used when the Lexus dealer changes or adds transmission fluid. I know that this forum strongly supports using Toyota ATF and was surprised when the dealer used Dextron II. Any thoughts on whether the Dextron fluid contributes to the problem and more importantly, is my little hop something to be concerned about. (A long weekend may be ideal for a fluid change to Toyota ATF.) Thank you.

Still no luck. I received the seat belt buckle with the proper harness from the auto graveyard. I connected it and the power features would not work. I noticed the part numbers on the control boxes were different. My next step will be to switch control boxes (from bad '97 seat to good '99 seat) and see if I can get it to work. If that doesn't work, I may try to separate the top of the seat from the lower frame and put the new seat on the old frame. This would result in "rebuilt" seating surfaces but may be too difficult. If anyone has any suggestions, I would be happy to hear them. Thank you.

I hope you are right. If I cut off the plastic plugs and connect the wires (I will use connectors rather than just splice and tape wires), it should work. Alternatively, I am planning on calling the scrapyard and seeing if they have the "seat belt receptor" with the attached harness from the '99. The plastic connectors should them match and fit, completing the loop. I will try that first. I hope it works since the '97 seat is bothering my back and the '99 seat seems so much more comfortable. If not, I am open to suggestions for "Plan B". Thanks.

After 185k, the drivers seat in my '97 LS is in poor shape. I got a great seat from a '99LS, same color in good shape from a scrapyard. It fit perfect physically, the main wiring harnesses plugged in fine. The plastic harness from the seat belt receptor (the part you plug the belt into) did not fit. (It appears I can cut the plugs and wire it without the plastic, but I hesitate to do this). In any case, the power features of the seat did not work. No way to adjust. Any suggestions? I am thinking that I need to take the wiring harnesses and control module from the '97 seat and put it in the '99 seat. I am open to any ideas. Thank you.

I took my '97LS w/ 180k to the dealer for scheduled service. I was surprised to learn I had a transmission leak. They told me the seals were leaking (something about a pump). In any case, repairs required 8 hours of labor and would total about $1,000 with parts. Supposedly, the transmission has to be removed to repair. I have found this dealer to be honest and trustworthy, however, this is the first time I have heard of this problem. The transmission fluid is changed regularly and shifting is smooth, I have noticed no leaks. I do get a very slight "clunk" occasionally when putting the car in gear. As an avid reader of this forum, I was surprised and am looking for input. So, what do you think?

Fuel pump was replaced with OEM part about 30,000 miles ago. It's possible but I would be really surprised. The alternator is original and at some point will probably need replacement but I don't think it is related.

For what it's worth, the car now seems to idle better than before. Once it is warmed up, the tach sits consistently between 6 to 800 rpms. Before this happened, it bounced around a little between 400 and 1000 rpms. Lexus dealer couldn't find anything wrong, so I will just live with it and see what happens. Thank you for the input.

Thank you for responding. Throttle body is a good thought but it was cleaned about a year ago. The other reasons are all plausible, it is running fine so I am less concerned. Exactly what is a IACV?

'97LS w/ 180k, timing belt and major tuneup scheduled for next week. The LS was parked outside at the airport for 4 days, temperature was low 40's at night and around 65 during the day. The last day was rainy. The normally flawless LS started fine but revved up to 20k rpm, then dropped to about 2k. It then proceeded to bounce around in a less than smooth fashion. It continued until the car was warmed up, then it seemed to run ok, maybe a little rich. It seemed to start ok when cold and ran fine today. The check engine light did not come on. Any ideas? I would like to figure out what it was before the major tune and timing belt. Thank you in advance.

I have a similar situation with my '97 with 180k. The ride is feeling more "boatlike" or "floaty". I had strut rods replaced at about 110,000 and have the same experience when doing the "bounce" test on each corner. I am planning on changing struts with KYB. While I may not need them, I figure it has to be an improvement over the originals with 180k. I had the dealer and an independent frame shop check the suspension recently. Both could not spot a problem. In any case, I am curious to see how you come out. Please keep us posted

After 180k the drivers seat on my '97 LS is showing signs of wear. The leather cover is fine, but the cushions and underlying springs seem to have lost their ability to provide comfort. The bottom side bolsters have lost their firmness and the bottom is beginning to take on a "bucket" shape. The seat back is better but still needs some work. So the question is what to do about it. A local auto trim shop will "rebuild" it by tying the springs and replacing parts of the cushion. In addition, if OEM bottom cushions are available (Lexus of Pembroke Pines says they are) for about $125 , they will replace the bottom cushion. The shop will charge about $125 to $150 and says it can be done in a day. It all seem reasonable. It should be a common problem and I was curious to see how others solved it. Thank you in advance.

The BG flush is a power flush and fill used to replace all of the fluid. In my area, it is available at independent shops and dealers. You can find further information using Google, etc. Many on this forum use and swear by the "drain and add" method. Merits of each can be debated but at the end of the day, it doesn't matter. What matters is clean fluid and fluid that meets Toyota specs.

I have a '97 LS and have had the dealer perform the BG Transmission flush done at about 150k. I noticed smoother shifts, general transmission improvement and feel good about the clean fluid. I know nothing about an LS430. My comment is the cost. My recollection is that the dealer charged me about $200. I am sure part of the cost is related to the quantity and quality of fluid but $550 just seemed high. I am sure it was worthwhile to have done, the cost just surprised me. By the way, the BG throttle body cleaning was also worthwhile.

I think (very amateur opinion) you have a few different things going on. On the "clunking" over small bumps, etc. I believe this may be front strut mounts. I had this on my '97 around 120k. While I probably should have replaced struts at that time, I was advised not to so I didn't. In terms of parts, aftermarket KYB struts can be found online for about $320 for all 4. Many on this forum have been pleased with them. OEM struts from parts.com or Lexus of Pembroke Pines are probably closer to $500 to $550 with shipping. They will be smoother and closer to the original ride. I have asked around about labor, a few small shops quote in the $85 to $100 range per strut. Afterwards, the car should be aligned. I am curious about the bushings. I have a feeling my front left side bushing is going and will look into to replacing both sides. Symptoms are a bit of looseness and slight slippage on the left front. (Almost like 1 table leg is slightly loose). Also outside thread of tire has slightly more wear. I have the same creaking noise, it comes and goes. Keep us posted. Many others, like me, have similar issues and would like to see how they are resolved.

After 13 years and 175k, the interior of the LS needs a good cleaning. Any good ideas or products for cleaning the leather seats? The drivers seats is showing a little dirt. Also, the non leather portions behind the seat, where my children kick their feet. A friend suggested steam cleaning with a portable unit that you can buy at Costco, etc. Anyone have any thoughts?

I understand your point. I do admit to cheating a little bit during the winter. I like to change the oil at 5000, so when that occurs during the winter I have it done at a local shop. I bring my Toyota filter and crush washer, they charge me a bit under $20. They let me go down into the pit to watch and get a good look at the underside of the car. I know many on these forums who would consider this practice sacreligious but it is usually one change per year and it works for me. The longer I drive this car, the longer I think it will last.

Just curious, has anyone used a"quick oil drain valve" (www.quickoildrainvalve.com)? It is a valve that allows the oil to drain with just a turn. It has a two step locking mechanism and resembles a plumbing fitting. Seems like it would make an oil change easier, especially on a cold garage floor. While on the subject of oil changes. After 175k, my '97 is using a very small amount of oil. At the 5000 mile change interval, I notice the oil is just a touch low. The distance between full and low is 2.5 centimeters, I am about 2 millimeters below full. I always fill with the recomended amount (5.4 quarts), but it is not an exact science. I presume it is not abnormal but I thought I'd ask. Last item, I have thought of switching to synthetic but have figured it is too late. I know the issue has been covered here before, just interested in thoughts about changing at this late date. Thank-you.

1. Alternator is original. Previously, the only non-maintanence parts that had been replaced are the starter, fuel pump, strut mounts and an exhaust heat shield. The engine and transmission mounts now must be added to the list. 2. The screen is cleaned approximately once a year by the little brake and muffler shop.

I had the clunking problem on my 97 LS w/ 175k, replacing the transmission mount solved it. The mount is only $35 or so. While I hear it is a fairly easy DIY task, independent shop charged me $175 to replace engine and trans mounts. The repair returned the car to its original smoothness and is highly recommended. Enjoy.