Moony400

Here the instruction in more detail. I had the same problem in the driver side of my 94 SC400. What you'll find when you get the door panel off is a rod that fell off because of a broken plastic piece that is suppose to hold the rod in place. I called Lexus and they wanted over a hundred dollar for the whole door handle assembly. I went to a wreckage yard and pick one up for free (gave a couple of dollars for the children's donation box). Good luck. door_removal.doc

Do you have the model number for the polk sub? Moony400

Okay, figured out how to get the panel off. I found a piece of rod that seem to have fallen off of the door lever. I took the passenger door panel off to figure out where it needed to go. Once I got it back in place and using lock wire to hold it in place, the door opens fine from outside and inside. Good right? Well now my driver door will not lock. When you try to lock using the remote key or the button on the door, it locks fine, but when you open the door from the outside, it just opens right up. Does anybody have any idea on how to fix this? thanks, MoonySC

Here's the link: http://www.intellexual.net/faq.html Look towards the bottom of the page and you'll see the step by step instructions.

First thing I would check is to make sure there are no corrosion on the battery cable terminal, which you probably have already checked since you replaced the battery. I had the same thing happen on a Toyota 4-runner. Sometimes it would start fine and sometimes it would just click but would not turn over. Luckily it decided to never turn over when I was at my mother-in-law's house. I took out the starter, went to pep boys and got a replacement. After the installation, the car starts fine every time now. My guess is the alternator. When it just click, it's dead. Good luck!

Can someone give me some instruction on how to get the driver side door panel off? I removed all visible screws and the panel seems to almost want to come off, but I can't seem to get it fully off. Its stuck right on top where you would open the door from the inside. The inside door opener is what I called it. Thanks,

Lexus of Seattle in Lynnwood.

Hello All, I'm ready to have my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, distributor cap and spark plug wires replaced. I called up Gregs Japanese auto and they quoted me at $1,500 plus tax. I called up the dealer (seattle), they quoted me at $1,620. What do you guys think? Reasonable price or am I getting slapped. Spark plug wires, I could probably do it myself, but the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and distributor cap are what I don't want to mess with. Just thought I ask for some opinions. Thanks, Moonysc400

I got the same problem this morning. I open the driver side door, start the car, went back into my house, came back and couldn't get the driver side door open. I went to the passenger side, open the door, reached over to the driver side and was able to open the door from the inside. I tried looking for some sort of safey lock or something around the door and can't find anything. When I got to work, i test it out and same thing. All I have to do is close the door (don't even have to lock it) and I can't open it from the driver side from the outside. I have to go from the passenger side and reach over to the driver and open the door that way. Does the above fix really works? Thanks, Moonysc400

Thanks, I will try to find that.

Hi All, It's been foggy for about a week now in the Everett, WA area and this is when I notice my headlights are pointing upward and to the right. The passenger side headlight is just pointing a bit upward. The driver side headlight is pointing too much to the right and upward. Does anybody have any instruction on how to adjust the headlights? Thanks, MoonySC400

I had the same problem. Mostly from the right rear, sounds when going over bumps. I had LesSchwab do the installation. Also I notice that the car seems to sway a bit more on freeways after the lowering with the Eibach Pro Kit. This concerns me more than the sound itself. Does anybody notice on their car? Before lowering it, the car drove fine, I didn't notice any swaying or following the dip in the freeway. So what does this mean? Bad shocks, bad bushing?, lower control arm? Thanks, MoonySC400

Yep, I did read about them and it does sounds like it's going to cost a lot for forced induction. How about torque converter? I see Dragon torque converter and RMM torque converter. Has anybody installed either one of these?

Got any links to forced induction and how much it will cost? Has anybody had this done to their car?

Hey All, My uncle called me up to take him to go check out a 94 SC400 with 55K for $8,800. I said wow 94 with 55K??????? So we went. The car is black, trunk looks clean. minor dents all around the car. Engine is as dirty as an old Ford in a junk yard and here's what tip me off. The driver seat is really bad and old. Lots of crease as if someone has been driving it everyday for the last 10 years and for it to have 55K, doesn't seem right. Plus the guy says he's selling for a friend who doesn't have time (that's always creapy). The odometer say 55K like advertised. I asked him if we would like to make any offer, who do talk too? Him. We test drove the car and didn't feel the power. We took the VIN number and ran it through CARFAX, and it came back stating that as of 05/2005, it was registered at 124K!!!!!!!!! BUYER BEWARE OF OLDER YEAR CAR WITH VERY LOW MILES Not sure how they change to output of the odometer, but there must be a way. MoonySC400

JamesN, thanks for info. That's what I forgot, the opening in the bumper area. I found a page (www.planetsoar.com) that shows you how to keep it open with two 50mm screws. Feeling the extra kick now. Although I did keep the part under the headlight sealed off. That's the one thing I see that everybody is doing when talking about BFI. Thanks, MoonySC400

Besides the BFI, what else can be done to the sc400 for performance? I've heard of dragon torqe converter. Has anybody installed one of these and notice any performance or off the line torque increase?

I got a 94 SC400 with 106K. Did the BFI which make the car sounds great on open throttle. But I don't feel the kick that I would expect. Never really did feel it either before the BFI. I read in an article some where that tells you how to train your computer to your driving style. Reset CPU, while the car temp is at normal driving, floor the gas pedal to let the CPU know that this your driving style, ect. Here's what I'm experiencing with my car. At a stop still, floor the gas pedal, RPM races to about 5k, then the car picks up and go. Seems like there is a little delay. You would think a V8 with 250 horse would at leat make some screaching sound from the tire. Also has anybody use the PWR/ECT/NORM button next to the hand brake? Does that give you any extra kick. When I turn my to PWR, it feels the same when I accellerate. I've check the throttle body and there aren't any build up or anything like that, new OEM plugs about 5K ago. Always use premium gas. Just want some input on what you guys experiences are with regards to power handle and accelleration on your sc400. Thanks, MoonySC400

Hello, Maybe someone can shed some light as to how the BFI works. I've been reading about BFI and seems to be many different ways to make them. This weekend, I completed one myself. I did all three chambers, top cover, underheadlight and blocking the battery side. Now here's the question I have, where does the air come from when under the headlight and battery side chamber is sealed off? If you look from the battery side over to under the headlight area (after it is sealed off) there are no opening for air. My understanding is that without a BFI, the snorkel would get the air from right underneath the headlight, right? Can some with experience on BFI shed some light on this topic. Explain how what each chamber does and where the air is coming from after the battery side, underneath the head light has been sealed off? Thanks, MoonySC400

I've seen it some where in the forum or another site stating the front set will be a direct bolt on replacement. All you have to do is cut or modify the dust cover a bit. How about the rear? Will they be a direct bolt on replacement also? Also if some one could point out some good links on how to's for upgrading to the supra TT brakes for front and rear. Thanks, MoonySC400

check it out at www.lexls.com http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/emission/pcv_valve.html

Used from the same wrecking yard where I got my MAF.

Just wondering what you guys think about this pricing I got on the Supra TT brakes. Guy said if I buy a complete set, front and rear calipers and rotors, he'll give it for $525. I haven't seen them yet, but just wondering if they're worth it at that price. MoonySC400

Hi All, I appreciated every one's input on this matter. Problem finally solved and my car is finally running without any problem or check engine light (fingers crossed). Here's how it went down. After do all I can, I finally took it to Lexus of Seattle, WA. Remember I took the car in with the MAF I got from a wrecking yard for $135 installed. They did the diagnose and bad ground wires that ties to the MAF and O2 sensor. $500 later, they say the check engine only comes on when the car is cold. When it reached operating temp. check engine light goes off. They did some testing on the MAF and found it to be bad. When they tap on it while the car is idling, some times it would shut the engine down. They call me up, says it going to be $1028 for a new MAF. I told them, I'm going to pick one up from a wrecking yard near by and bring it over. Went to Nix Toyota wrecking yard and pick one up for $350. Took it to Lexus, they installed it and works fine now. So after parts and labor and diagnose, it came to about $1045 (includes the first MAF from another wrecking yard). Just glad my Lexus is now running properly. Again, thanks for your input. MoonySC400

Hope some one can give some input quickly here. I replaced the MAF with one I got from wrecking yard and still getting check engine. I read the code and still code 31. I decided to take it in to a Lexus dealer this morning and now got a call from them stating that their is something wrong with the ground wire and will require some time to replace or fix at $500. Does any one know if this is true or is the dealer trying to make some money.