Moony400

I finally figured out how to read the check engine code last night. Got code 31. Three short blink, small pause, one short blink, long pause and cycle again. Checked out code 31 in www.alldatadiy.com and it show trouble spot to be the MAF, the MAF cable to the ECM (short or open) or the ECM it self. I ordered a used MAF for $130 and we'll see if it's really the MAF.

MitchB, thanks for the reply. I did spray the MAF with throttle boddy cleaner I got from Schucks. Is there any special cleaning that has to be done. When I pull out the MAF, all I see is a plastic rod like and sprayed with the throttle body cleaner. It didn't seem dirty at all when I pulled it out, but cleaned it any ways. Is there other components of the MAF that needs to be opened and cleaned? Also, with the car driving okay without the MAF, is it safe to assume the MAF is bad? Thanks, MoonySC400

Okay, need some input here. I unplugged the MAF connector and of course got the check engine light right away, but the car seems to run just fine. The car starts fine and run fine. I didn't notice any misfire or hesitation in the car. Run and accellerate good. I was driving around all weekend without a problem. Is it safe to assume the MAF is the culprit? Also for the experts, is it bad to drive the car with the MAF disconnected even though the car runs fine that way? Thanks.

Lexus082, Thanks for the advise. Looks like thats what I'm going to have to do. I took a reading of the MAF as describe somewhere in this forum, where it should read between 2-3 k OHM and mine was reading at 2.25 kOHM. So looks like it withing specs, but still got problem. One thing I tried was just unplugging the MAF connector and start up the engine and it starts fine and was idling fine. I drove around for a bit and nothing weird seems to happen. The car warmed up fine and it just drives fine. WEIRED. I'll post a result after taking it in for a diagnostic. Thanks, MoonySC400

Just checked with lexus dealer and they want $1,028.00 for a MAF sensor. Wow!

Lexus 082, do you still have the old MAF? Have you cleaned it and put it back to see if it work? I'm having the same problem that only seem to get worst. First I would only get the check engine with trac off, but the car drives fine. I replace the right back O2 sensor, still getting check engine light. I then cleaned the MAF, which didn't look dirty at all when I took it out, but cleaned it anyways. I also clenad the plug for it with those fast drying electrical plug cleaners. Now my car mis-fire and constantly stall as I'm trying back out of my drive way. Any suggestion? MoonySC400

Hello, got more problems after cleaning the MAF. Now the check engine light comes on right after starting the car. Even when it's cold. What I notice now after the starting the car is sometimes the engine rev up and down like crazy and the engine would shut down. Sometimes it take four starts to make it out of my drive way. Like I said before, the check engine light only comes on after the engine is warmed up and hardly comes on when the AC is on. Now the check engine light comes on instantly. If I leave the car in park and rev up the engine to about 4000 or 5000 RPM, it forces the check engine off, but I'll notice some mis-fire in the engine. When I let off the gas pedal the check engine light comes right back. Sound like I got a big problem here. Any suggestion please or is my only option now is going into Lexus and get slap with repair bill. Suggestion please. MoonySC400

Oh, just to make sure I buy the right stuff, what kind of cleaner should I buy to clean the plugs? Thanks, MoonySC400

Not quite sure. I was told to disconnect the battery when replacing the O2 sensor and that would seset it. I also disconnected the battery afterward when I changed my air filter to K&N air filter. I was told by K&N support to disconnect the battery for one hour to reset the CPU. When disconnecting the battery, all I do is disconnect the negative terminal. Is that the right way to do it to have the CPU reset? Thanks, MoonySC400

JamesN, Thanks for the attachement. Also where did you get the strut tower bar and for how much? Thanks, MoonySC400

Thanks for the reply. I will try to clean the MAF first, since it's the easiest. I did take a look at the throttle body intake when replacing the spark plugs and it looks pretty clean. The car has 102,000 miles. JamesN, where is the ignition coil plug? Again, thanks for the reply and info. Moonys400

Some help please. My '94 sc400 got the check engine and trac off light. A buddy did some test (read code) and said code 25, bad o2 sensor left bank. He orderd one $180 and I replaced it (simple to do). Still getting check engine and trac off light. The funny thing is the light never comes on till the temp gauge reaches mid way and only if I have the AC off. With the AC or climate control on, I can drive for ever without the light ever coming on or if it did only for a short time and goes back off. With the climate control off, as soon as the temp gauge reaches mid way, the light seems to come on more often. It goes away when I'm driving on the freeway, but when I slow down or come to a stop, it comes back on. The one time that it alway comes on regardless if I have the AC on or off is when I pull up to my drive or parking lot and put the car in park. The RPM lowers a little and comes the check engine light with trac off. Now at this point (while car is in park) if I turn the AC off, the RPM drops real low and goes back to normal. My buddy suggested check the wire that plugs to the o2 sensor or replace the ECM. Has anybody experience this or know what could be wrong? Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. Thanks, Moonysc400

Bandit, just curious. how much did it cost for you to lower your car? How many inches did it drop? Thanks, Moony400

Hello All, I just put BBS LM on my 1994 SC400. 18X8.5 front and 18X9.5 rear. Looks good, but not so good with the gap in the wheel wells. Could some one tell what are some good lowering springs for the car. I could put all four of my fingers vertically in the front gap and only about 2 in the rear. This gives it that sagging look in the back which is not too sporty. I see that there is an Eibach sping for the SC400 on tirerack.com that drops the car 1 inch all around. Would this still give it the sagging look in the back? I'm looking for the agressive look, lower in the front or at least have the gap in the wheel well to be same all around. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Also please indicate if I need camber adjustments. Thanks, Moony400

Thanks.

Gogo, could you kindly point me to the correct forum. Did a few search and found nothing or got error. Thanks, Moony400

Hello, I just noticed there are moisture in my left headlamp and it' going away. Looked all around and didn't see any sign of crack or bad seal. Any ideas? Is the only fix is to get a new headlamp? I did the converting turn lamps into fog lights, this wouldn't have anything to do with it, right? 1994 SC400 Thanks, Moony400

Hello All, I just put BBS LM on my 1994 SC400. 18X8.5 front and 18X9.5 rear. Looks good, but not so good with the gap in the wheel wells. Could some one tell what are some good lowering springs for the car. I could put all four of my fingers vertically in the front gap and only about 2 in the rear. This gives it that sagging look in the back which is not too sporty. I see that there is an Eibach sping for the SC400 on tirerack.com that drops the car 1 inch all around. Would this still give it the sagging look in the back? I'm looking for the agressive look, lower in the front or at least have the gap in the wheel well to be same all around. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Also please indicate if I need camber adjustments. Thanks, Moony400

Finally got them. It just took awhile in the mail. thanks, Moony400

Steve, I ordered these on 05/04/05 and paid for them through pay pal. I haven't gotten any notification on whether they were shipped or not. Tried emailing info@teamlexus.co.uk and didn't get any response. Anybody have any idea how long it takes to get these? Thanks, Moony400

Anybody still need some help here. Just noticed something else. I drove around without the climate control on. The check engine seems to come on everytime I press the brake pedal and stay on. When I accellerate, it goes away, once I stop accellerating and ease off the gas pedal, the check engine light comes on again. This is getting very consistent. Any ideas anybody?

Hello, need some help. Just noticed this yesterday. I was driving to work, excellerate to change lane and check engine light comes on. I thought it was the cause of the K&N filter, because it did that when I first put it in. K&N tech support says to disconnect the negative battery terminal for one hour to reset the ECU. Did that and the Check Engine to seems to stop coming on until yesterday morning (this is about one week after talking to K&N tech support). So when I went back home, I decided to go with the stock air filter, disconnect the negative battery terminal to reset the ECU and wax the car. Reconnect the battery terminal and the Check Engine light is gone. Good I thought. Took my wife out to eat in my clean just waxed car. The climate control got a little cold so I turned it off while I was at a stop light. The RPM dipped to almost 200 RPM, engine seems to almost want to stop, RPM came back up to normal around 500 RPM and Check Engine light comes followed by the TRACK OFF light. Now after dinner, driving back home I noticed that the Check Engine comes on and off as I'm driving. I noticed that when I accellerate, it would go away. I turn the AC on and the car seems to drive noramlly. When I got home, I turned the AC off to test it again and the same thing happen. RPM dropped, came back up and Check Engine Light comes on. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and left it off all night. Reconnect, went to work and no Check Engine till I got close to work. Came to my desk and started typing this out. Help please. What could be wrong? Thanks, Moony400

Proper bleeding is very important in replacing the power steering pump. Mine was leaking about a month ago. I bought an after market one from autozone $200. A buddy of mine who has been a mechanic at a Toyota Dealership in Tacoma, WA for sometime now was working on swapping out the unit. What happen after he swapped it was the way Southbeachlexus described it. We thought the pump was bad, so took it back. Unfortunately autozone didn't have another one. I told him about rebuilding it to save some money and stay with OEM pump. He was able to get the rebuild kit for $23.00 and spent about 3 hours to rebuild it. After installing the rebuild pump, he got the same problem. He finally called some of co-workers and went over the bleeding steps. Now everything is working fine. The pump from autozone was probable working fine, but we thought it was bad due to improper bleeding. I check the pump every now and then to make sure it's not leaking still. Wish I could tell you how he did it, but I wasn't there. He told all about it when I picked up the car. Here's a site that tells you how to flush the the power steering fluid on a 91 LS400 http://www.lexls.com/psflush.html. Also shows how to rebuild the power steering pump. Should be pretty much the same way. Good luck. Moony400

Thanks for the reply DomLee. Do you think it's bettery to got something like an Injen Intake System. I saw one at http://www.lexmods.com/ProductDetail.php?C...ID=700&fid=1021 for $230. Has any body have any experience with this intake system? Thanks, Moony400

Hi All, New to the website. I've looked around and found nothing on K&N air filter for 1994 SC400. I purchased one from Pep Boys for $55.95 Everett, WA. Popped it in and didn't noticed any different or increase of acceleration. Has anybody else used the K&N filter or have any experience with them? Part number is 33-2054. Thanks, Moony400