jskim9

come on, can you spend more than 35 seconds on cropping and B&W'ing it? where's the art? where's the adobe pride in your work? that's putting in as much effort as Shaq... for shame

I also smoke when I'm fueling up :chairshot:

deflate your head, nobody's trying to impress you. Weren't you the guy who thought FWD cars don't have differentials?

From dictionary.com "dissipate" dis·si·pate ( P ) Pronunciation Key (ds-pt) v. dis·si·pat·ed, dis·si·pat·ing, dis·si·pates v. tr. To drive away; disperse. To attenuate to or almost to the point of disappearing: The wind finally dissipated the smoke. See Synonyms at scatter. To spend or expend intemperately or wastefully; squander. To use up, especially recklessly; exhaust: dissipated their energy. See Synonyms at waste. To cause to lose (energy, such as heat) irreversibly.

powdercoat has little effect on heat dissipation or insulation. But I think with the tubing, you want insulation. Remember, the air filter is designed to draw in "cooler" air, being assisted by the heat shield. You're not really dissipating any heat in the incoming air. The incoming air is cooler than the ambient temperature of the engine bay. Your goal is to insulate the air. The guy above me is saying ceramic coating will dissipate heat? Ceramic is one of the greatest heat barriers that we know of. Ceramic will act to insulate the intake air from the ambient temps. that's why headers are ceramic coated. It protects the metal header tubing from 1500+ degree heat. But it's useless to ceramic coat the intake, we're talking about 110 degree engine bay, compared to extreme exhaust gas temps. also, if you're going to paint the tubing, you need to primer it first. sand off the paint you have now, paint a decent layer of primer, then paint the tubing with about 2 coats of whatever high temp paint you want. Don't add clearcoat, which will start to bubble in high heat. Just get glossy paint

but you're still deep in the negatives right? I've been reading from other posters that it's about a -1.5 degree or so... which is a lot for a street setup. Think of the tire wear! won't someone PLEASE think of the tire wear!

you mean changing the pulley's... not the belt. changing the belt would only change the tension, not the RPM of the turbines. And the instant boost for S/C only applies for Whipplechargers. Corkscrew type and centrifugal S/C's rely on RPM to generate boost, much like Turbo's. Of course, S/C turbine only needs around 50k-75k RPM to obtain sufficient boost, while Turbo's require 150k-300k RPM for sufficient boost (rule of thumb, different numbers for different applications), so in that sense, S/C will generally provide boost faster. Depending on the intake design of the 2jz, you may be able to install a corkscrew type and definitely a centrifugal S/C with some work. Whipplechargers, that'll require hood cutting :)

enlighten us... describe this process you still haven't addressed the fact that powder coating can't flex like plastic... you need flex paint for painting plastic

What kind of long term wear and tear/harm, etc does this do to the car? What other problems are likely to manifest? Thanks! ← You'll run into the same problems of all turbo cars. Engine runs hotter, oil leakage comes sooner than stock engine, engine will suffer detonation ocassionally, messing up the pistons, piston rings, valves and spark plugs. Added power strains the stock tranny, differentials. You'll have to change those oils sooner. There's a host of problems associated with turbo'ing your car with aftermarket stuff. If you really need the power, don't turbo the stock GS300, get a Supra Turbo engine (2JZGTE). That'll get you an automatic 320hp engine with potential to add more a lot safely. The engine was made by TRD directly, and can withstand 500hp on stock trim.

I disagree... more air going into the engine is restricted by the rate at which the engine can expell the exhaust (not directly of course). Remember, an engine is a vacuum and a pump. It sucks in air, through the intake system, and it pumps out exhaust gases through the exhaust system. Reducing whatever that hinders these flows make it easier for the piston/rod/cranks to move the gases into and outof the engine, which allows it to make more power. Now of course, bringing air into the engine is more important, so I would say work on the induction before the exhaust, but it's still important to work on the exhaust. And yes, tuning is most important. That's why you buy Japanese manuf exhaust for japanese cars. HKS, Trust, Apexi makes great exhaust systems, that'll add 5-15 hp in the mid-high rpm range. Now, some might say that's not worth $500-$800 bucks, but you also get a nice sound and aggressive styling in the rear end from it as well. So if that's worth it to you, go for it, if not, spend that money elsewhere (trip to Vegas)...

forget all that, all you need is THIS and THIS and THIS for maximum power gain. btw, for more info on the last "THIS", go here FTC sues ZMax gotta love this quote: "The FTC previously halted allegedly deceptive advertising by the marketers of Dura Lube, Motor Up, Prolong, Valvoline, Slick 50, and STP, other major brands of engine treatment products"

ROFLMAO!!! is he saying that only RWD cars have differentials? Then how do FWD cars transfer power to the axels? Sheer will power? lol sorry, don't mean to be a jerk (maybe a little)... Diff's are anything that transfers rotational power into the axels. FWD cars have the tranny up against the flywheel (manuals) or crank output shaft (auto - torque converter), then out of the tranny is the diff, which is usually geared right onto the tranny output shaft. So on cars such as the Int Type R, the diff is an LSD, but on a GSR, it's an "open diff". Then from the diff, it goes into the axels (yes, one is shorter than the other, that's why those drag civics' long axels break all the time). and most cars DON'T have LSD's. LSD's are expensive to manuf. compared to open diff's. Think of all the cars with an LSD. The cheapest one that I could remember is a 1995 240sx SE with the LSD/ABS package for around $23,000. think about it, most cars/people don't need LSD's, how many typical drivers take 40mph right turns?

Yes B) ← powder coat typically cures at approx. 350 degrees... would that engine cover plastic survive in a 350 degree oven? Even then, plastic flexes and warps. Powder coat doesn't like to flex or warp. You'll start seeing cracks and chipping over a short period of time. What you need is flex paint. DuPont has some good ones, same type used for bumper paint. But expensive, as you probably guessed.

wait, if your timing belt breaks... how would that cause the valves to hit the piston? does it allow the valves to go out of timing? so for interference, even if the belt breaks, it won't cause the valve to hit the pistons?

for a better look, lower it an inch or so.

LinkKinda expensive for cast rims... Look on discounttire.com or Victoriatires.com or other inexpensive shops, they have 19 packages in the low $2k's USD. for those prices, I'd spend a few hundred more and get japanese forged rims. You could get 19" TE37 w/ tires for around $3k USD. try these guys LINKED ... decent price and I hear reputable, but I've never ordered from them. good luck finding your perfect set.

well, looks like this guy had some fun at your expense

If you don't want Nav, but want SQ, then get the base stereo, junk it and get a better aftermarket system. For the price of that option from Lexus, you could get a much better sounding aftermarket system. Of course, if you don't like the non-OEM look, this wouldn't be an option.

I have a set of 18x8.5 @ 45mm up front and 18x9.5 @ 45mm rear rims. Just a general question for those with IS experiences and knowledge. 1. How feasible is it to have on an IS300 that's lowered about an inch all around with that rim combo? 2. What size tire would I need? What's the largest/widest tires that I could have with this combo? 3. What's your recommendation for springs/shock combo or C/O? Preference on streetability 4. Would I have to or is it better to roll my fender? Thanks in advance