skylolow

Thanks to all. It was the oil pressure switch. So I went to swap that out. When taking out the old one I was quite surprised with how easily it came out. Old switch plastic all fell off while taking it out. Quite brittle from age. So I looked a little closer and appear I had a hairline crack in the oil filter bracket itself. Well I put the new one in and snugged it up but not to tight. Filled her back up. Fired her up and she was dripping way worse. Drained it again. Unscrewed the switch and notice the crack was bigger. Took off the oil filter bracket and a chunk acutally came off where the switch goes into. So ordered that from the stealership. Only $140 with the gasket. Not too bad. I thought they would take me to the cleaners on it. Hopefully it comes in tomorrow. Otherwise Monday for sure.

Nope it isn't that part. In your diagram part 15609 (oil filter housing or bracket/whatever its called). There is a part that comes off of that, right in the middle that isn't in that pic. It comes out basically about NW side of the part and screws into the bracket. In a nutshell that is my problems. Every diagram of the engine I can find doesn't show this part. I'm almost positive its the oil pressure switch. It's the only thing I found that look even close to it. I think the desing has just been changed slightly over the years. Odd thing is with this dripping about a drop every 7-10 sec or so(from this oil pressure switch) when the engine is running you'd think I'd get a warning on the dash but I got nothing. Oh well jacking the car up this morning and replacing that part. 180K in miles and no leaking gaskets ever except for this part. Gotta love Lexus. My BMW chances are will be lucky to reach 100K in miles without an oil leak.

I'm going to jack the car up tomorrow and snap a pic. Every engine diagram I find doesn't show this part. I can't find a pic either of the oil pressure sending unit anywhere on the net. But I'm starting to believe that the oil pressure sensor is inside the oil pan. I found pics of the oil pressure switch and that looks very similar to it. But what I'm looking at is longer. But the ones I see on the net are aftermarket ones that maybe have a different design to them. A much better design then what appears to be on mine. Which has the screw in part and then about a two inch white plastic part going into the electrical plug area. Leaking in the plastic part. I don't think the crank shaft position sensor is connected into the oil filter housing. Anyone that has ever changed there oil has seen this part. It the only thing that screws into the oil filter housing(or attach).

Got a small oil leak coming from the small plastic piece that comes out of the upper left side(going towards the front of the car) of I guess what you'd the oil filter housing. Where you screw your oil filter in. It's the only part that comes out of it and appears to screw into the housing. What is this called and if anyone has a part number that would be awesome. Thanks

Well replaced my starter last Sunday. While was dirty I thought I should take care of the alternator since the car is a 1997 with 125,000 miles on it. Well replaced the alternator and was putting on a new belt. Went with the Goodyear Gatorbelt since I read some pleased results with it on other cars. Here is the problem the Gatorbelt seems to be about a solid 1" to 1 3/4" short. I push down the tensioner all the way(to where it bottoms out) and the belt is just way short. Even if by some miracle feat of strength I got the belt on the tensioner, it would be bottomed out. I made sure I had the right belt and according to Goodyear it is. Has anyone ran into this problem or I'm I missing something here??? What belt should I put on since it seems the Gatorback has a production issue on the Lexus. And yes I got the belt going the right way through all pulleys.

Time to replace the starter(solenoid is attached to it). My car is on its third starter (125,000 miles on my car). Just replaced last Sunday. It is nothing short of being a real b*tch. No easy way of putting. Each time my starter started to go out it started by exactly what your saying. Click click click start. The process will slowly get longer and longer until nothing. Either be prepared to drop about 1,000 for the dealership or about $250 out of your pocket and a good day of your time. If you do it yourself spend the extra $50 to $75 on the Denso starter. Do not short change yourself. I made that mistake last time and the starter lasted me only about 35,000 miles or so. My job requires me to start my car alot each day. Normal conditions I would say it would've lasted maybe 60,000 miles or so. Plus the Denso is what Lexus uses. Anyone that has ever replaced there starter themselves really is wondering how a desinger would design some of the parts on the LS 400 engine. There is so many thing that could be changed and not cause one bit of problem. I believe what the problem in the design(or really the location of the starter) is that copper ring that the plunger hits when you turn the key gets worn down quicker then normal beccause of the heat. I believe the copper get softer at a high temp. and breaks down quicker then normal when you restart your car at normal operation temp. Every time you turn your key this copper gets scored well after so many starts the copper breaks down. Well with the heat I think this process is sped up. Here is a link to look at. Trust me it is much more work then it seems. http://www.lextreme.com/starter.html Have fun. :)

Have them also check your caty. converter. A clogged catyalic converter will do exactly what you said its doing. I would think your check engine light would be on if that is problem. I had a car once that had a clogged caty. and same thing, you get above 4,000 or so RPM's and the car just won't accelerate much more.

As like everyone else said show them your receipts. Also never except there first off unless its a fair number. They don't really low ball you persay but they will offer you about $500 less then what they really will pay. I also recommend you searching on cars.com, autotrader.com, etc.. and print out some Lexus's close to yours in year and mileage. Those numbers should give you a real replacement value of a car like yours. Chances are any other Lexus's with over 200,000 miles on them where taking care of very well also.

Well I ordered the Denso straight from Denso. Hopefully this one will last.

I've had my 97 Ls for about 5 years now and do a lot of driving. I'm very seriously leaning on getting a GS430. The LS is nice and every thing but the GS is more exciting to drive and still very sharp looking. Drove the GS and I don't think there is a whole lot of difference in over all quality of the ride. But when the little speedracer in all of us comes out the GS just feel so much better. Oh well my two cents. Either way your not going to make a bad decision.

2 starters in 18 months on the same car Yeah tell me about. I still have images of my motor half apart. :cries: That is why I really like to know what starter seems to have the least amount of problems.

Well I'm going to replace my starter again this week. Been about 18 months since I did the last one. GRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!! What starter would you recommend? I see remanufactured Denso's for around $200 (seems high for a remanufactured) and I see some Bosch remanufactured starters for about $135. Anybody recommend one over the other or if you know of any other good starters out there????? I really do not want to be doing this again. Thanks to all who respond.

Yep.......Threadcutter, I think thats exactly my problem. Do you know if Lexus ever made some kind fix for this? Thicker copper or something. I do alot idleing and starting(from my job), I'm thinking the heat may be breaking down the copper quicker then normal. All I know is I'm not looking forward to doing this job again.

Well I would imange the alternator is fine since I have no other electrical issues and its not that the battery isn't being charged. I also don't believe it would be the relay since I get the clicking noise from the starter. Cause what I'm lead to believe is that if the relay is shot you wouldn't get the clicking sound from the starter. It just seems like a bad connection in the starter. Motor turns over instantly when it all connects. Its just weird that it just clicks over and over and then bam all of a sudden it starts. Which is why I'm worried if I replace the starter it won't solve the problem. I know usually when starter is on the fritz it will sound weak or you will get flat spots on it where it connects but not long enough to start the car, basically cranks once and then nothing and you turn it again and it starts or repeats the previous cycle until it starts. I'm leaning more and more to the starter being the problem or being the solenoid connected with the starter, which means replacing the starter. I just don't want to waste a day fixing it again after only about 18 months ago I replaced it. Does anyone have any other ideas of what would cause this?????

Well lately I go out to my car and nothing but click click click when turning the key. Then all of a sudden it turns right over. Doesn't even hesistate or anything. Seems like in the morning after sitting over night is when this problem really occurs bad. Sometimes it takes 15 turns of the key until it starts up. When the car is warm never had problem......until recently. Now sometimes when the car is warm it starts normal and sometimes it takes a few turns of the key. I started by replacing the battery and cleaning up any corrision that was on the terminals and connectors. Well that didn't help. About a year and half ago I replaced the starter(which as anyone who has done that knows that is no fun). So I'm hoping that the starter isn't the problem. When the starter went you could tell it hesitated to turn the motor over, its not doing that now. Any suggestions on what to test or if anyone else has had this problem and what solved it????

A solid 5K and I would shoot up to about 7K. There is usually around 8k mark up depending on the bells and whistles added. Some dealers also add there own touch to them(ex:brush guard) which is usually marked up even more then you could buy it and have installed. Go look at them and get all info. on one you like. Then run it through edmunds.com or any of the other sites to look up the cost. Remember it is a rough number but its usually within $500 of what the dealer paid. You can even fill out some info. on the net and let dealers in your state send you there best prices via email or phone. You can then get a real good idea of what dealership is willing to wheel and deal the most.

I would say keep the NSX"if you can"..............dump the LS and buy maybe a nice 2003 or so LS used with low miles. You can almost gurantee the 300c is going to have all kinds of little problems, noises, rattles, and quirks by about 50,000 miles. You must remember Chrysler among many American name brand cars are built towards a price point more then being built to be the best vehicle in its class. There is shortcuts taking everywhere to achieve this. I would really look into a few year old LS. You wouldn't be the one eating the intial deprecation then. Good luck on your decision. Love the NSX by the way

Make sure you get the front end looked at. You may have some wear in the suspension. Remember the car is 10 years old so I'm sure the bushings and maybe even the tie rods need replacing. Check around for a good suspension place to look at and do the work. I would stay away from the dealer doing it. They are going to bend you over big time on those parts and then the labor comes in sideways after that. :) I love my 1997 LS. I agree with the above post the new generation just doesn't feel as sound as the old generations. I've been told by few mechanics now that the new generation is having a few quirks that keep coming up. The brakes have been a big issue in the reguards of wearing quickly.

Have fun :) For sure replace the tensioners and the water pump. Since you will have it all torn apart I would replace just about anything you can get at. You may even want to swap out the alternator also. Since your already dirty I would recommend dropping in some new spark plugs also at that time. I got a do mine soon. I'm just wondering if I should just pay someone and save myself the headache and time.

Look around at some local forgien repair shops. You should have no problem getting a head gasket fixed for under $1300. Make sure you pick a shop that has some history with working on that motor. Last thing you want is someone going in there and just throwing a new head gasket on without maching the head smooth again. You'll be back with in a year getting another head gasket.

Everything looks good from maintance stand point. All the areas that need to be addressed looked like they were. I'm sure the brakes where replaced at one time on the car and they probally did the rotors at that time. ECU is hit or miss and if everything is working fine your not going to know if it will ever be a problem. On paper the car looks good.

I would say it really depends on how many miles you plan on driving a year and how long you attend to keep the car. Lexus's will run for a long time there is no doubt about that. Maintance is more expensive then what you are use to, that is for sure. I would stay with 95 to 97 for what your looking for to start with. Just remember you buy a car with lots of miles there is going to be things that need to be done or you should at least check to what has been done. On LS's things to find if they been done on a higher mileage car would include: timing belt changed(cost about $1000 to $1500), last times brakes and rotors were replaced, cond. of exhaust system(this can get very pricey), check if there has been any issues with the dash lights flickering or anything(hit or miss problem but can be expensive to fix), anything to do with the suspension should be checked, and also all your normal stuff you would check on any used car. A Lexus wouldn't have much problem running up to around 200,000. Problem is when you get over about 150,000 good luck ever getting any money out of it. Not many people willing to fork out much money for cars with that kind of mileage. Flip side if you buy just a nice a Honda or Toyota with low miles you may actually get some money out of it in the end if you sell with around 120,000. Best bet for you is to look at a Lexus ES or GS 300. You will find a much lower mileage car for your money and still get the Lexus quality. Check on Ebay many dealers have great prices on there. Good luck. I love my 97 LS....bought it with 40,000 and now have 112,000 and it runs like it did when I bought it and my driving for work is hell on a car, lots of stop and go and idling.

What are dealers knocking off LC's msrp? I looked at one the other day while the dealer(Toyota) was changing my oil, and I was taken back to see a $65k sticker. The LX is not far from the LC's price, fully loaded LX for $68k. I'd have a problem of picking one over the other because they both look so damn good! ← Around 4 to 5 grand. Most LX's I saw where around 72K and the LC's around 62k. Plus the new LC's have the more powerful engine in them with better fuel econonmy. Not sure if they have announced yet when the LX's would get the new engine(i haven't seen anything but I know the LC's have had it now for about 4 month or longer). Back to the org. question getting a 2001 LS or 2006 Avalon. With such a difference in years I would opt for the Avalon. I love my LS but you are dealing with a 5 years difference. But hey in the end I'm sure you be happy with any of them. Might also want to take into consideration how long you may keep this car???

I think it becomes a much tougher decision now. My father just bought my mom a new Avalon. I own a 97 LS 400 and the Avalon for sure holds its own now. I can tell you the Avalon is one nice car now. Really moves well and handles good for such a large car. Has alot of the features the LS430 does for alot less. Really your biggest different is the rear wheel drive. That damn Avalon gets over 30 on the highway. Blows me away with that much h.p. that it has no problem getting you around 32 on avg on the highway. Parents took it on a 300 mile trip and avg. almost 33 a gallon on the highway. Pretty much a solid 10 mpg more then the LS. Fit and finish of course is one of the best in the industry like most Toyota Corp. products. Keep in mind owning a Lexus is must more prestigous if you care about that. Also service is usually better on a Lexus then a Toyota. But hey neither one usually ever breaks. Avalon will be cheaper to repair on avg. though. If you ask me Toyota is putting there Lexus LS 430(I'll even lump in the ES 330 buyers) into a tough buying decesion with the new Avalon. I compare to the people looking at the Land Cruiser compared to the LX-470. Hard to justify the difference for the price. I had that problem and went with the LC. Been happy ever since and saved a ton. Tough decison man. Maybe you might want to look at the GS 430 series instead. :) Much more on the Lexus favor there. Go drive the new Avalon if you haven't yet. You wouldn't be disappointed that is for sure.