Jump to content


bssybeep

Regular Member
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Lexus Model
    1991 LS400

bssybeep's Achievements

Explorer

Explorer (4/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Hmmm, I didn't. So the water pump is part of the 90K service? So basically I guess it was time for it to go?
  2. A few months back I bought a 2001 Miata which I started driving pretty much everyday (fun car btw). So I parked my 91 LS400 (~105k miles) to give it a rest. I usually drove it once/twice every other week to keep things flowing. A few days ago while sitting at a light I noticed my temp gauge was pegged all the way at the top. When I got home and checked under the hood some steam was coming out and I could see some dampness under the crank. Today I had time to remove the bottom plastic dust/rock cover hoping it was just a hose leaking. But it appears the leaking is coming from a hole below the crank pulley. If I remember correctly, it was a weep hole for when the water pump seals went? I had some questions: 1.Does my problem appear to be the water pump? 2.Since my car had pretty low miles and even when I did drive it daily, it wasn't very far, I'm surprised the water pump went so soon, is this a common problem? 3.Having the car sit after using it daily, could this have caused any problems or was this failure a coincidence? 4.Anything else for me to check/consider? Thanks in advance
  3. Thought I'd let everybody know the resolution to my problem. Maniek was the closest. Turns out my underhood insulation was coming loose and everytime I hit full throttle, it blocked my air instake! I never thought to look there. Eyeballing it, it didn't appear it was sagging. But the service manager said that was common and in fact called it when I first dropped off my car at the dealer. Thanks for all the assistance!
  4. Thanks for the reply. That makes me feel better because like an idiot I had added 1/4 qt of Dexron and then found out I needed type 4!!. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that as the dealer said any other tranny fluid besides the type 4 is grittier, while the type 4 is finer and lubricates better. Therefore, the tranny will wear out faster with the dexron in it. Regarding the original shifting problem, I'm bringing the car into the dealer on Monday, I'm hoping its the shift control solenoid, which to be honest it sounds like it is.
  5. I just checked and it cost 240 to completely flush the tranny and torque converter. It cost $4000!! to replace the tranny. Since I am short on cash, what risk do I run that it will die on me completely if I just do nothing? Since it works fine on normal driving I guess I can live without a kickdown for awhile until my monetary situation improves. But I don't want to risk that the tranny may die completely. Thanks in advance
  6. Thanks for the reply. From what I remember I thought I had the transmission flushed by Made-in-Japan a few years back. I'll need to check with them tomorrow to see what type of fluid they used. If they used Dexron instead of T-IV fluid, they may have ruined my tranny. I don't put many miles on my car so I wouldn't expect tranny problems so soon. 5000 rpm without any or much gain in acceleration is usually a symptom of transmission slippage which in turn is usually a symptom of excessive transmission clutch pack wear. On the other hand, these transmissions have internal electronic shift controls and sometimes a weak / failing shift control solenoid can cause wierd shifting behavior. Lastly, these transmission require Toyota Type T-IV fluid. If Dexron fluid is used it might cause excessive transmission slippage. If it were my car I'd drop the transmission oil pan and inspect the magnets in the pan and mesh of the metal filter screen for signs of excessive clutch pack wear debris. If there was not excessive debris then I would breathe a sign of relief and look for an electronic cause for the wierd shifting behavior. Excessive debris = spoonful amounts of debris clinging to the magnets and bottom of the transmission pan and the filter screen.
  7. I took the car out on the freeway. At 40-50mph, I punched it to merge into traffic, initially it appears to kick down, and the engine is revving up fine, but instead of a hard pull up to 80-100 mph, I get kind of a surging/stuttering effect with the car accelerating very slow and the engine revving up to 5000 rpm. Under normal driving conditions, the car appears to be running and shifting fine.
  8. Thanks for the advice, I just checked it and it was down 1/8-1/4 of a qt. I just filled it and took it for a test drive. It appeared to kick down better upon initial full throttle, but once my engine reached ~5000 rpm the car felt like it was not pulling, ie. my engine was working, but the car was not moving faster.
  9. I have an odd problem with my 1991 LS400 (101K miles). My car used to have terrific acceleration upon full throttle, the transmission would kick in and the car would take off like a rocket. Just recently, I noticed when I depress the throttle fully, the car doesn't kick down and I get almost no acceleration or slow acceleration. The car kind of surges but goes nowhere. My engine rpms go up to 5000, but I'm hardly moving. The kicker is, the car runs fine on normal driving (street and mostly freeway) just seems to have a problem with full throttle kickdown. It's weird, it appears maybe the tranny is acting up? But the car drives fine normally. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership