JIBBBY

GDawg - Glad to see you got some results with seafoaming... Some see positive results and others don't report much...I seem to think it just makes the engine run smoother in general...I don't think of seafoam as being horsepower in a bottle...It is a great product though and should be used on all the older lexus's.... The brake booster line is an intake vacume line which sucks air directly into the intake and into the piston combustion chambers...Not thru the braking system.. Basically you remove the booster hose and you can see it sucks in air as the car then wants to stall out... You simply dip the open hose line into the cup of seafoam and watch it suck it right up...Plug the open other end with your finger so the car doesn't stall.... Once the seafoam is all sucked up and inside the engine you then shut the car down, the seafoam immediately starts removing the years of carbon return buildup. You should allow it to sit for 10 minutes....The carbon buildup occures from the cars EGR system which re-circulates spent exhaust fumes and sends it back thru the engines intake to reduce fuel emissions, in doing so it allows the internal cumbustion chambers to promote big time carbon buildup over the years......So when removing the carbon buildup the engine cleans up and in most cases performs much better...Repeat efforts of seafoaming should be done, one time usually doesn't remove all the carbon...That's been my experience with seafoaming...

Impact :chairshot:

Bits

That intake looks just a little familiar to me..... You should take a look at the BFI intake design, if you use your original intake air filter box and mod it you could create a better intake flow and heat shield then the injen pod filter and heat shield......Just a suggestion that could bring you an addition 5 hp or so...

Rust

Cams and head work will do wonders if done correctly....... What about the rest of your exhaust system after the headers? U Got to go with either highflowing cats, and you should really consider highflowing oval mufflers (the stock mufflers are oh soooo restrictive).... Also if your doing cams, intake, head work, and exhaust headers, you should really consider installing a piggyback ECU system to really help you tune out the engine to peak performance.... You could pull as much as 35-45 more horsepower with those little exhaust mods and an ECU piggyback...Topend will be nicely increased....

Salvage title

Hey, you can try all the stop oil leak products...However, if it is nastly leak chances are those products won't work and will only help you develope oil sludge.... I have changed out the main seal once and it's not easy.... Shouldn't cost you more then $300-$400 in if you really shop around at all your local tranny shops...I know of a tranny shop out here in Santa Monica, Ca. that would do it for $300....

Well the dealership only sells OEM pads for and excessive price.... Just look for Toyota or Lexus geniun pads or something like that I guess... I have tried many different pads and non seem to work and last as long as the original OEM pads.... I have used other expensive pads and they will work too, but stay away from the cheepies..... They will squeek and give out tons of brake dust...

Not sure what Imortal means DC? Did you mean immortal or immoral maybe? I am going to assume you ment immoral... Unfortunate...

Homer - Yeah, seafoaming the intake makes the biggest difference, got to do the brake booster for sure.... Seafoaming the fuel is useless, the parts are like 1-100 seafoam to fuel...That kinda delution you are not going to get that much cleaning action...The oil seafoaming and intake seafoaming will do the trick though.. schott - When you have a warped brake rotor you will not be able to turn it and remove the warp...Turning the rotors only removes surface flaws and scratches where the pads make contact to the rotors...You need to replace warped rotors... Most warped rotors happen on the fronts so replacing both the front rotor with Drilled and Slotted rotors from either Ebay or somewhere else will fix the warping problem and the drilled and slotted rotors will greatly improve your braking power over stock...My D/S rotors have been great for what is going on for 4 years now...Got my Brembo rotors off of Ebay for like $200, really improved my braking power which I really needed... OEM pads are a good idea too.... Hope that makes sense to you...

These timing belts usually live for twice as long as the recommended Lexus dealer service...I've seen timing belts go for 200,000 miles and still look in pretty good shape...Just a little food for thought...My sc400 has 115,000 miles and my original timing belts look too good to change.... The timing belts are incased and are protected very well from the outside elements, so failing, cracking, etc... takes a long time...Unlike the serpentine belts....

Divorce....(she gets half) :cries:

All the directions you need are on the Seafoam bottle...It's very simple....That is or usage in the fuel, oil, and intake... There are other vacume lines you can use, but the brake booster line is the most practical and common line used...

Wedding

Pittsburg

Yeah Gdawg, you suck up the seafoam thru the brake booster line...The car will stall, let it sit for 10 minutes...Reconnect the brake booster line and then crank the motor...The car will blow alot of smoke, repeat the process and you have one clean running motor....It's all very simple and effective.... A few have fouled their spark plugs but it is not likely or common...I have done it twice with no spark plug problems, a few friends the same....No need to change out the plugs....

Health

Sunblock

Celebration

Seafoam

A 50 shot won't do anything to the V8 lexus motors....Really, I didn't see any signs of wear or breakage while I was using 100hp shot for over 4 years....However, when I stepped the Nitrous up to the 150hp shot that is when all hell broke loose...Tranny, engine wear, etc... I think you would even be fine with a true 100hp notorous shot for many many years on the 1uz-fe motors...

Serpetine belt - It is the long belt you see in the above picture... That serp belt runs off the engine crank and powers and or turns the steering pump, hydo pump, alternator, A/C, etc.... Timing belt - Is located behind the two plastic covers located in the front of the engine...There are two belts on the Lexus V8's...One on each side... You need to remove all the plastic top engine crap to get to them... Not very difficult to change them out as many people would think... The distributor caps and rotors (2 of both) is also located inside the timing belt areas and is easily replaced as well... Dealer will charge you hundreds and hundreds when really you can do it yourself for under $100 or so...Parts only...It's a sinch... Also when changing your timing belts, lexus owners should consider changing out the water pump as well as they are known to fail over time....

Barf

Hangover