termin8or

It sounds like the MAF. $900 fromLexus. $52 at Murrays. Don't bother trying to clean. It won't work

I got 125,000 out of a set of Michelins. Very good tire

I also have wear on the inside of my fronts. Tire America did an alignment and gave me a printout that showed the before and after. If you ask me they didn't do much but adjust some toe in and that wasn't a problem. They said everything was, in fact, pretty good. That the areas out of spec were very small. Also said that there was no adjustment on the rear

Same hear. MAF cleaner killed mine. Don't try it. Murray auto had a rebuilt "Cardone" for $55. There the only one that I found under $150. Wow great deal. Dealer wanted $910, not including the gasket. This is a no brainer. Don't waste your time like me. Murray's is the BEST deal by far. This is a no brainer descision

I would go to a junk yard and cut off and re-soder the wires to your car. I just saw one of those connectors at a local IL junk yard.

Same problem here. I checked the main Ox sensors and the heating elements seem to be OK. I have changed plugs and fuel filter, no luck yet. I plan on wires and caps & rotors next. (Ifigure bit probably needs it anyway. Then, I guess I will pull the injectors for cleaning. Tried injector cleaner w/o sucess.

I'm not completely certain but I think the R12 & R134A fittings are not the same size. Also, I saw an R134A retrofit kit at Walmart for cheap. Just fittings I guess. However, I know you ban't mix the 12 with the 134A so thats a problem.

Are you certain that it's the TPS. I have same code and mine first coded out as the Ox sensor ( I think code 23 or 24). I then tried cleaning the MAF, thinking that it couldn't hurt but after re-assembly my car now has flat spots where the car just studders. Now it's the code 31 which is VAC or MAF. TRAC light and Check Engine stay on. I am getting a rebuilt MAF from Murrays Auto but I'ts very possible that the car also got other issues. UPDATE: I replaced the MAF with one from Murray's and got rid of the studder. Still coding though. I think you may be on to something with the TPS for the TRAC. When I take off the TRAC my car seems to run stronger.

How much for the MAF or VAC?

I had a KIA where the trans downshifted into 2nd gear and stayed there. That was a default when the computer doesn't detect what it thinks it should be seeing from a sensor. In the case of my KIA the shop replaced what was called the turbo speed sensor on the trans. There was an input and an output sensor. Not certain if this helps but I thought that I would offer it up.

$45 for those cheesy trunk shock absorbers seems like a lot to me. I think I'll just search the junk yark for a generic part for about $1 ea

Never mind. On second thought the EGR won't have anything to do with an increase in crank case pressure.

This topic kind of links into one of my posts regarding engines from Japan. They are pretty cheap and are about $875 plus $125 for delivery. hats the 4.0. I was wondering the same thing about dropping in a low milage 98-2000 300HP engine. but the 4.3 or 4.6 would be even better. I wonder if the blocks are the same?

I'm not so certain that the trans flush is the answer for this problem. I just got my car returned to me after having the rear main seal replaced and the front trans seal replaced. In due course the trans fluid and filter were changed. Last night the check engine light and the TRAC light came on. I'm certain that the mechanic probably got his right foot into the throttle, to check the seal under pressure, before I picked the car up. My car is a 93 with OBDI so it would be nice to know the manual way of checking the trouble codes.

OK then. How about a good source for some of these low mileage (50-60K) replacement engines. Also, how about swapping the 1998 SC engine thats 50 HP more into older SC's?