TunedRX300

I must add this. I think this oil gel is 100% BS. If you do normal changes with dino or use synthetic and go longer, you will be fine. Plus change you air filters when they need it along with oil. Do not forget PCV. ...important. This type of issue is not isolated to Lexus/Toyota. Happened to: VW Dodge Chrysler Audi I doubt owners of 1mz-fe find any comfort by associating Toyota/Lexus with other sludge engine makers. It is odd the #1 reliability automaker to be in the same group as VW, Audi, Dodge, Chrysler. Do we really want our Lexus cars to be as reliable as these second tier German and American brands?

I always thought the ExxonMobil information was carefully written by their marketing department to try to discredit the many claims of oil leeks after switching to synthetic. They emphasize the fact that synthetic will not actually cause oil leeks but shy away from the actual claims that an engine that does not leek with dino may leek with synthetic. It remains as a myth until someone conduct a scientific study that show syn oil causing leak. Here is one attempt with a sample pool of 74 cars and the result is inconclusive. http://www-d0.fnal.gov/~jkrane/cars/synth_survey.html If EOM marketing department is crafty, then the following two oil companies are not as slick. Castrol Syntec meets ACEA seal protection. Apparent tests are done to back up Castrol's claim. From Castrol's web site http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarti...ntentId=7017050 Similiar statement from Quaker State http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp Also one must ask, do I want to fix the cause of the seal or merely use thicker oil or sludge to cover it up? Keep in mind that surgically repairing the physical seal is not the only way to fix the leak. There are natural ester based additive that clean up the sludge and makes seal to its original pliable condition.

If you stick to the 3k schedule for oil changes and are strict about it then you will probably be OK. The problem in the early RX series is the higher than normal heat put out by the Lex/Toy 3.0 V-6. The heat tends to break down conventional oils a lot faster and if you dont change the oil out often it will start to gel up on you. With respect to RX in NC, I'd reccommend moving to synthetic. Bottom line is that you've got the car, and it is succeptible to sludging/geling, period. Do you want to take the risk or mitigate the risk almost entirely by simply using synthetic oil. With synth you can go 4-5k between changes (maybe longer) without much risk of gelling. If we were talking about a vehicle that had no history of oil-gel I might be more amenable to the dino-oil, but with these, I say why take any additional risk. You may save yourself, $50-$60 a year on oil , is that really very much? As to the leakage issues, I've used or switched every vehicle I do or have maintained to synthetic oil and have no leaks to speak of, (knock wood) I agree it is sad to have to deal with this kind of thing in a Lexus, but any first or second year (of production) vehicle will have problems either not anticipated or covered up by the manufacturer. Its really not that un-common although it is painful and seriously annoying. Especially when the problems are as serious as the oil-gel and trans-failure issues are with the RX. I agree, 1mz-fe is harsh on oil. If owners follow 5K interval, sludge can buildup slowly over time; or gross neglect, which sludge can accumulate quickly The way our engine is chewing up oil, 5K is not short enough for most dino oil, the acid neutralizing additive will be long depleted before 5K. This is shown on every spectrum report of used oil analysis on 1mz-fe. In addition to the accelerated depletion of chemical additives, the physical nature of dino oil is altered as well: Toyota branded 5w-30 dino oil is shown to shear down to 20 weight oil in < 200 miles after the oil change. I will let oil company to speak for syn oil causing leaks. They make both dino and syn oils. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...tics/Myths.aspx Myth: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars. Reality: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.

Hi Kari, Where did you get your rear main seal done at? I work and live in San Jose and I have not found a quote lower than $900 to get the main seal done, it be great if you can respond with the shops address. Thanks. There is an cheaper and perhaps more elegant solution. Use chemistry to stop the seal leak. I am in the rinsing phase of Auto-RX treatment, my seal leak has slowed after 1300 miles. All it cost me is regular oil changes and $40 for the natural lanolin ester based cleaner. The juries are still out whether it completely stop the cam seal leak for me, but $ back guarantee and many favorable results from owners prompt me to give it a try. Before anyone call this product a snake oil, Google, research and decide.

I didn't quite read the letter, and missed that. So IMHO that isn't really worth it then. But in other hand, I never knew there was a 8yr/unlimited mileage sludge warranty. Did this come out just recently or was it always been out for a long time? The sludge warranty is only for 1mz-fe based models. According to your signature, you may not own one of the affected models. Actually another class action law suit covers your Ody transmission, it also calls for 9 months/ 9000 miles warranty on top of Honda/Acura's 8 years 100K mile warranty. Since I own an Acura TL that is under the same Honda tranny problem, I got two letters on the same day, one for my RX, one for the TL. It is pretty clear to me that lawyers are on a fishing trip 1) Identify automakers that have officially issued extended warranty due to engine/tranny design defects. 2) Pick ridiculous tiny extension so automakers can pay little cost but generate enough PR to potentially smear Toyota/Honda's reputation. 3) Settle out of courts to sell owners's rights, which could land for longer and real benefits. 4) pocket legal fees Seems to me that is win for lawyers, win for Toyota/Honda, and no substantial benefits for owners. Unlike others, I have no problem with lawyers making $, but not at the expense of owners. Here is instruction to opt-out, provided by http://www.oilgelsettlement.com/detailed_notice.pdf

If one reads the letter carefully, there is only 120 days of additional time to make claim on top of the 8 year unlimited miles sluge warranty. I am not sure about anyone else, but 4 more month of grace time to make claim is a joke and a cheap way to buy off owners' rights. I will opt-out the class by sending the law firm a written signed letter. My $0.02: this case benefit lawyers (fee $) and Toyota (small amount of $ to buy off owners' rights for substantial benefits). 120 days (can someone correct me if I am wrong) is an insult to our intelligence.

Irontoad indicates ES300 has a different Toyota part #. Here is a picture I just downloaded from an Ebay RX300 auction, see the rust buildup on the hub, it is very typical. Rust buildup on uncoated surface at the rotor edge caused an annoying problem for me, coasting at 5mph you can hear rotors "sing". Granted east coast road salt caused the problem for me but painted edge (such as Rotora) would prevent it.

RX330 is coated, RX300 is not. Even in California, it is not hard to find rust buildup on RX300 bare cast steel OEM rotors, not just from brake dust but more from heated bare rotor metal reacted with oxygen in the air. See link and picture of both front and rear OEM rotors, non-frictional surface (hub) is as bare as the friction furfaces. http://www.irontoad.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=2002rx300 For comparasion, here is heat and rust resistant coated rotors for RX300 by Rotora. http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/rotora-sl...xus-rx-300.html

I disconnected the cooler return line to the transmission and was able to replace 7 quarts of ATF. Change your transmission filter as well. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220061

The main function of the exhaust system is to muff noise, reduce emission, and channel hot exhaust gas out the engine, stock intake and exhaust design change very little, if any, on torque and horsepower on the same engine. ES350 differs a mere 2 hp and 3 lb-ft in max power and torque from RX350. The amount of exhaust gas, given same RPM and same A/F ratio is the same for ES and RX, there is no scientific reasoning to warranty a free flow dual exhaust on the ES over single exhaust on the RX. Of course, Lexus can market it that way to those who believe dual exhaust makes a car more sporty.

Actually the dual exhaust gives the RX more balanced look. People do not like it because they are used to looking at RX's single exhaust. If dual exhaust is ricey then ES350's stock dual exhaust is ricey as well. Dual exhaust does equal to loss of luxury. In addition, it has no scientific reason other than weight and cost saving for Lexus: ES350 has dual exhaust, RX350 has single exhaust, does it mean ES is more sporty than RX? I have to laugh hard to believe that since both have the same 2gr-fe engine. Just because Lexus gives certain configuration a default look does not = good design or a good look. Please save the "if it looks good Lexus must have thought it first" non sense, just take a look at RX300's ugly rusty non-frictional surface on OEM brake rotors and calipers and tell me why Lexus does not cover them with heat and rust resistant paint.

Please post those pictures I replaced 4 of the bulbs with LEDs. I left the '2' and 'L' bulbs in place ... they are very rarely used. I purchased the LEDs from an Arizona-based firm called 'AutoLumination'. I am in no way associated with this firm. They have a direct replacement called "Neo-Wedge". No fiddling with removing the bulb from the bayonet holders, etc. The appropriate page is at: http://autolumination.com/74.htm Good luck. Thanks, I assume it is the super white you ordered?

I put ATE Superblue into my RX for over one year, a DOT 4, no problem. User's Manual calls for DOT3 if you follow everything to the letter. Brake fluid is mainly a hydraulic fluid that can resist high temperature and DOT 4 is nothing but DOT 3 with higher standards (e.g. dry, wet boiling point). Just don't put DOT 5. Here is a good link http://www.gs610.com/abc.htm I like ATE because it has a blue dye, make flushing so much easier since you know when the old fluid is 100% gone. Next time I want to flush, just use ATE fluid with gold dye, same chemical composition, just different dye.

Any brake fluid that is DOT 3 approved is fine. But pick one that has higher wet boiling point.

I would take the car to the Lexus dealer that service the car for the original owner and ask for a diagnostic and verification of transmission service records. If the transmission is blown, ask for Lexus to pay for it under goodwill. Practice your negotiation skills. Good luck.

Toyota T-IV is not synthetic, just highly friction modified minerial based fluid for Aisin Warner transmissions. Perk, Double check what ATF you mechanic put in, if wrong fluid, make sure to flush the old fluid out.

Good intructions, do you have to take off the black metal piece mounted on top on the two throttle inlet holes? What if you strip one of the three phillip screws on the throttle body? I believe they are excessively torqued at the factory...

Not to spark a debate on transmission oil, the way I understand it is that Mobil is Toyota's ATF supplier in the U.S. Idemitsu is Toyota's Asian supplier. Toyota's transmissions are designed by Aisin Warner, whose parent company Aisin Seiki, is 30% controlled by Toyota. Toyota T-IV is nothing but a Aisin Warner spec complying fluid, most likely rebranded Mobil 3309. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...il_ATF_3309.asp Toyota has a relationship with Mobil because Toyota's branded engine oil are sourced to Mobil. I think Toyota is smart with outsourcing because it is a car company, not an oil company. Here is a official Mazda TSB that recommends GM, Ford, Volvo, and Toyota's ATF, in addition to the aftermarket Mobil 3309, to its new 6 sedan. Apparently they are all made by Aisin Warner, shared the same spec, and have good quality ATF that Mazda is not afraid to issue this TSB and be liable for warranty claims. http://www.mazda6tech.com/tsb/aisinwarner.pdf There is no right or wrong, only preference. Others are fine with drain and fill with Toyota T-IV for every 15K and could care less about who really makes ATF for Toyota. For me, I like Amsoil's higher flash point and synthetic based stock oil for more resistant to oxidation to excessive heat generated by RX300 AWD transmission.

I drained and replaced 7 quarts with Amsoil ATF last month, after 2000 miles of driving, there is no shift problem. In fact, the up shift is better when I accelerate hard. Synthetic based ATF gives me the confidence to drain and fill at RX300's recommendated interval of 60K.

Good work lenore. Not to execuse Lexus' unwillingness to extend powertrain warranty on the transmssion, but Toyota most likely did not design RX's transmission. Aisin Warner designs most Toyota's trannies. Toyota owns a 30% controlling interest in Aisin Seiki, which is a parent company of Aisin Warner. Take a look at Aisin Warner's transmission product portfolio http://www.aisin.com/product/auto/drive/index.html Aisin Warner's customer list, with Toyota as the #1 buyer http://www.aisin.com/profile/customer/index.html I found an interesting TSB from Mazda, which officially recommends Toyota T-IV for Mazda's new 6 sedan. Not only does Mazda recommends a Japanese competitor's ATF, it further lists two domestic (Ford, GM), one european (Volvo), and one aftermarket's ATF (Mobil 3309) as officially approved ATF - because they all comply to Aisin Warner's spec. http://www.mazda6tech.com/tsb/aisinwarner.pdf The more I dig, the more I found out that Toyota's OEM T-IV is more likely a re-branded Mobil 3309, which 100% complies with Aisin Warner JWS3309 spec. Otherwise, why would Mazda recommends ATF from 4 competitors and Mobil? Remember Mazda is liable for warranty claim if any of these ATF cause shift problem or failure on Mazda's 6 sedans. Off the topic: The item that cracks me up is the last statement from Mazda TSB: "when the new ATF is avaliable through Mazda, you will be notified as soon as possible and a Service Bulletin will be issued" Which to me translates to - "When Mazda negotiates a favorable term and pricing from an ATF supplier, from either Mobil or Idemitsu, we will 1)issue a TSB that states only Mazda branded ATF will be used 2) sell a Mazda branded Mobil/Idemitsu ATF at a considerable higher price" Now, just replace "Mazda" with "Toyota", let's see what we got here? Nay, Toyota won't do that to us...Really???

Did you read the forum rules? This is a violation and a bad post. Reported to forum moderator

ATF is not the only place that holds metal debris, there are three magnets in the tranny pan in addition to those on drain plugs. Without dropping the pan, one can not check the condition of the filter and clean those magnets. One can DIY with a few hand tools with this link RX300 Transmission Photo DIY Instructions There are dangers of using flush, as described in this Tranny Filter Clogged by Flush ATF function as a coolant, synthetic fluid will absorb and dissipate heat faster than mineral based fluid, in addition to having higher flash point and same color as OEM. In another word, a work around for higher amount of heat generated w/o having to deal with Lexus' "OEM fluid only" to honor warranty (which is against Federal law). I am not interested to debate about synthetic vs mineral ATF or Flush vs Dropping the Pan. Just trying to help members to deal with problem at hand instead of pointing fingers.

Sounds like a Raid Ant Bait commercial. If I have a choice I would prefer active carbon filter material that get rid of diesel fume smell and do some real filter work: block those fine dust particles. I check A/C filter twice a year and never see any moisure on mine. No right or wrong, just personal preference.

It might be, but the A/C filter for the RX300 is more of a screen than a filter. There might be fungcide impregnated in the A/C "screen" but I highly doubt it. Raise the A/C filter to the sun light you will see more holes than a swiss cheese, can someone explain to me how are fungus and micro-bateria get killed if most of them are passed through?

The transmission pump draws from the fluid from the pan and use fresh ATF to push old ATF out. There is no mixing (unlike drain and fill 2x or 3x in a row). Dextron ATF is not spec-ed for RX, I used Amsoil (please no debate here) since it supports Toyota T-IV and many Lexus owners have used it and reported no problems. You can choose OEM fluid or Mobil ATF 3309, but I have no experience with Mobil outside their M1 engine oil. The other drawback of pouring ATF in the dipstick or suck it in with the other cooler line is you need a third person to take care of it. I was already busy with guiding the cooler return line to the transmission to the drain pan with one hand, checking fluid color with another hand.