intakerGS

Lol, nope, that's why we have the forum (as we don't want anyone waisting their time...) I remember this same issue with a subaru. The dealer was able to re-program the locks to lock, regardless of engine running and in/out of car. I'm confident this idiot-protection :whistles: can be disabled by the dealer.

In fact, seeing a seat repair shop is a good advice, you can 'feel' the differences in foam used. Usually, Polyfoam is used in seat upholstry. It comes in 'closed-' and 'open cell' density formats. You can lookup the differences, where 'open cell' provides more comfort and 'closed cell' more firmness and upholding it's profile much longer. I suggest you don't choose the original stuff (I suspect open cell polyfoam), but select a suitable polyfoam that's more firm. It also has firmness grades to choose from.

It's a common safety feature of cars with a smart key (and without) to not be able to lock the doors from the outside. Some states consider it illegal to leave the car with a running engine and locked doors. Consider also people who leave small children in a locked car with running engine. I believe there's also a section in the manual that states that in some exceptional circumstances, the car doesn't recognize the key, leaving the doors locked. I guess they consider it more dangerous whith the engine running and doors locked.

I don't want to spoil the party, but... That would be a wrong advisor, as maintenance history is far more important. I couldn't trace that part in your story. If there's no maintenance record available, steer clear, unless you have some mechanical skills at hand or have the car thoroughly examined, before buying that is. Things you may need to inspect, clean or service: - plugs and all (air)filters - ATF (only use Toyota IV ATF and do it multiple times, to get as much of the old stuff out) - V- and S-belts / tensioners / waterpump - brakes/pads/callipers, balljoints, bushings - other fluids: coolant-, differential-, powersteering-, brakefluid, engine-oil (any good brand will do, keep up to the scheduled intervals) - throttlebody/IAC/MAF - exhaustsystem/sensors, etc. - leakage under/in car Vibration can also be caused by worn engine or transmission mounts. Usually, when the throttlebody/IAC/MAF is dirty, a rough idle occurs. It's 'urking' indeed that the seller didn't clean the interior. Although it doesn't necessarily mean something, it can be a sign of neglecting the car in other areas as well. If some or all above was not serviced in the past, be prepared to pay a lot of dineros. Hopefully I'm completely wrong and all was taken care for, but if not...

I like this phrase "We are stuck with gas gauges designed to make people feel better, not accurately report the level of fuel in the car"

Likely your battery is not charging fully or you have a parasitic draw somewhere, draining the battery overnight. You need to measure voltage of the car battery @ morning, before you start the car. When idling, measure it again and post results.

That's exactly what your car is telling you! See a shop or mechanic for diagnose.

In case you are referring to body-roll at cornering, it's not likely that a strut bar will improve this. Some body roll is a Lexus trade-off between comfy and sporty characteristics. As I recall, the IS uses double wishbone suspension at front, minimizing forces at the chassis by design. So if you really want to improve cornering and body-roll, you need to upgrade to a beefy aftermarket sway-bar and sport springs, etc. In terms of overall body stiffness, strut bars can make a difference, but I doubt effects will be noticeable @ your current (standard) setup.

First of all, don't bypass fuses. You first should check (or replace to be sure) the fuses, if contact between holder and fuse feels tight. I strongly suspect that the aftermarket remote start kit is partly tapped into your wire-loom (@driver's kick panel/fusebox). These connections may have become loose or bad over time, also depending on how professional the connection was made (soldered, taped, fuse-spreader?). So, kicking the panel may temporarily restore the 'connection', but you need to sort this out asap to prevent further damage or worse, fire. The driver's kick panel/fusebox is usually mounted with some bolts or clips. Make sure u unclip your battery, before doing any modifications to the wiring. If you're not much into electronics and wiring, I strongly advice you to see a dealer or shop for further assistance and diagnose. Below you find a diagram with wire-description, which might be helpful: http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5440/es300wiring.gif

If I'm not mistaken, the LX470 comes with adjustable hydraulic suspension. Although a great feature in terms of refinement & comfort, it's est. lifespan is around 10 years or 100K miles. I believe the accumulators can be a very expensive part to replace (if they fail that is). Then again, there are a lot of LX's with very high milage and no AHC suspension probs. at all. These are very reliable and wonderful build cars, both sharing the same technical roots. From a luxury- and perhaps cosmetic perspective, the LX is a bit more handsome in my opinion. Although I believe the landcruiser can handle the high milage easily, I would opt for less milage, so 80K miles and 2 years younger for the LX seems more attractive. With above in mind, it's perhaps more economical to buy the landcruiser in terms of overall costs and future repairs, but I still would prefer the LX.

harridan

Are you referring to this post and then copied the same exact question? doors clicking As it states, there's possibly something wrong with the doorlock motor / controlmodule (trigger) @ driversdoor, sending a false close/open signal to other doors, windows, alarm and roof. You may want to move your topic to the RX forum too..

punishment

Many issues may contribute to shudder or delayed (trans)action from AT. Besides 'shudder' in reverse, it seems to (intermittent) get stuck in other gear too, which may point to a common divider. It would help to provide more details about things already checked and/or maintenance history, as it's impossible to provide any valid suggestion at this stage. For example: when was ATF refreshed/flushed, ATF level, ATF color, CEL warning, when did it start, milage of car, etc. Any proper AT shop should be able to check this, or at least give you some hints.

Perhaps it's time for some tesla coil protection...

vegetative

Congrats on the new car. You said it, it could be all. It's a known fact that the lock motors (or actuators) go out in time. However, it's not to say that this is true in your case. If you do a search , you find many topics covering this. Also see this link: door locks

That's bad news.. Good luck with your next GS!

Trance

Delirious

Yep, almost forgot about the brakes. When brakes get stiff you likely have a brakebooster/vacuum issue. You can try to check this, by pumping brakes hard when the car isn't running. Continue this untill you've bled off the vacuum from booster. Keep foot on pedal and start the car. The pedal should sink a bit. If you are lucky, a leaky or collapsing vaccumhose is cause, but there are also many other things that may contribute to not building up vacuum. Besides that, a lot of electronic systems assist in braking, you need to know the CEL codes. You don't want to experiment with your brakesystem, so pls consider my advice and tow it to a shop for inspection.

Not easy to say at this point, without odb codes. Misfiring is usually caused by bad ingnition system, injectors, compression, vacuumleak, fuelchain etc. Given the fact that your plugs were replaced, maybe the plug-wiring got bad or not fastened enough. Driving depends. If the engine is still strong and relative smooth, go ahead and drive. If the power is noticeably down and the engine is shaking, better not to.

Emmy