intakerGS

By looks of RPM number and gas/milage, it seems your trans doesn't shift into overdrive (5 speed). Sometimes shifting probs. are related to a knock sensor failure, causing the ECU to !Removed! the engine (no overdrive). In general, an engine warning light should pop-up, accompanied by some fault-codes. You should check this first. Suspect may be your air/fuel chain: MAF sensor (engine lean), O2 sensors, catalyc converter, sparkplugs, evaporative emission (cap loose?), temp sensor, trans solenoid, etc.., perhaps a combination of above.

Hi all, Recently I purchased a 2000 GS 300, NAV, no leather (poor man's feature), green (imperial jade, what's in a name) and completely stock. Although I live in Holland and have been browsing the Lexus Euro forum, I seem to stick with the US one. There might be a factor that the Euro site is German, no offence :P For the near future I'm planning on new rim's (perhaps let them repaint), as the paint is coming off badly. Other than that, the car is in very good shape, well maintained and shines like new. It might be my imagination, but when the dealer serviced my car and I got a replacement GS (new model, all features), I noticed that my 'old' car still has an unmatched smoothness and build-quality to it. I absolutely love it. Anyway, thanks for the info on this site. Cheers!

You have to be absolutely sure the new MAF sensor is working properly and within ECU specs for your car, as the error code points to a low voltage reading. Perhaps it's a sensor unit for a LS400, although I'm not sure if these are interchangeable. Try reading the output with a voltmeter (this should fluctuate when you rev the motor) to exclude a bad connection with MAF harness/wiring.

I replied to one of your questions, re. a paintjob/stains and asked to put some pics up. You replied to that, but then nothing came up. It wouldn't hurt to leave some sort of comment, instead of leaving it hangin'. How seriously do you to expect me to answer your next question? I'm kind of a newcomer on this forum, but sincerely respect and appreciate some of the comments from experienced forum-users above, as there's much to be learned from their answers (including myself). You might consider looking them up and find them to be very informative and helpful. I'm kind of put off when people believe they have a right on answers. As mentioned, it doesn't work when you put out a message that seems like: 'hey, I don't wanna search myself, give me fast answers'. Self-reflection might be key here. Every forum has it's own 'mindset', rules and philosophy. Like it or not, just what Dcfish and others clearly pointed out, can't argue with that... Cheers

I'm not sure what it is you want to ask. Perhaps some other info would be useful as well. What kind of CD's are you loading, original or 'burned' ones? What error message does it give? It might be something easy, like cleaning the laserlens, or more complicated stuff, related to loading mechanism or electronics. The whirring noise could point to an unreadable CD.

Ur welcome, let us know if it worked in the end.

You can try this: Hold the Climate and Audio controls while switching the parking lights on and off 3 or 4 times. This must be done immediately after turning the key on. A diagnostics screen should come up. Let me know if this works for you.

Not easy to diagnose like this, but there are some things to look out for: bad expansion valve, faulty servo motor (air/mix valve), bad interior/air/evaporator-temperature sensor. Something might show up with a factory scantool. Here's some diagram, perhaps useful:

Lexus manual states that SAE 5W-30 is the norm (in my case). The viscosity depends on climate (cold/warm). I use a synthetic oil (Mobile 1) and change once a year. I'm sure other brands are fine too.

You can adjust the NAV system manually by selecting 'menu' and then select 'NAV options'. You now can select 'Position' or 'Tyre replacement' (distance). So, if not done already, try this: Drive your car to a location which is known on the map (a reference point). Step 1. Calibrate 'Position': You can now adjust the map and move it to the desired direction by pressing the arrows (around the cursor). When the cursor is on the correct spot, press OK. A new screen comes up with two side arrows. You can now adjust the position of the car (in relation to the map). Press OK when done. Step 2. Calibrate 'Tyre-replacement' - 'Distance': When you press distance, the system will adjust it's position on the map. In general, the NAV system gets a part of it's info from the wheels and compensates automatically for distance when recieving a GPS signal (this can take some time and driving). However, I'm not sure if the system can compensate for the 22's. Perhaps you should drive a little and repeat former steps a few times.

Hi flclark, 1. Does anyone know if the face plate of the radio can be removed without taking out the radio? To my knowledge, it can't be done without removing the unit. 2. If the radio has to be removed can the face plate be taken off or is it integrated into the radio and the only solution would be to purchase another radio? According to this link, it looks like it comes off: Radio face

Welcome to the LOC and congrats on the car. From what I'm told (correct me if I'm wrong), issues with the central locking seems a common issue for second gen GS. If I read you correct, the driver's doors do unlock, but not lock with the remote or car's central lock-console. The door-lock assembly operates with 3 parts: 1 - Door lock actuator 2 - Lock position sensor 3 - Door switch to detect door open/closed Problem can be a faulty lock-sensor or actuator, which are rather expensive to replace. If you are able, it pay's to do it yourself and shop for parts. Here's a DIY to check: Actuator Cheers

Hi Ray-tough, First of all, congrats with your car. Altough Lexus is a very reliable car, it all depends on servicehistory. It's always bit of a risk buying a car without a a decent history or thorough check before purchase, given it's age. Second, parts for a car this class never comes cheap. Then again, if properly maintained, it will keep cost down and run forever. Back to business. When the car is running rich, the air/fuel/exhaust system is suspect: - A/F sensor B1 S1 : Your oxygen sensor needs to be replaced (there are 2 of them, so it's best to replace both). If faulty, your air/fuel reading is compromised, resulting in a 'safe' rich mixture. Also replace spark-plugs, clean and check throttlebody and replace air-filter (MAF). - 3 injectors [bank 1]: If stuck of faulty, you can expect bad combustion and other related problems. You might try fix them by adding a good injector-cleaner to you fuel. - FR sway Bar links; Part of drivetrain and needs solved before you do any alignment of wheels. These parts are in general not too expensive or hard to replace. - FR Sway Bar Bushings: idem - RR Sway Bar bushing: idem - Exhaust intermid ( they said the pipe is rusted and leaks): Leaks can cause bad air/fuel mixture, perhaps you can quick fix this first with an exhaust-repair kit. Keep in mind that this is mostly a temporary solution, if possible at all. - wheel ailiment: After sway bar etc./brakes/drivetrain is fixed, otherwise you need to do it again. It might pay-off to shop for a decent bodyshop, as the repairs are not too difficult and prices for labour are better. There are a lot of DIY's available, perhaps the person who is changing your brakes can do some other stuff as well. Is this done in the past? - All belts changed on schedule at 90/100K or 8-10 years? Not sure if this aplies for the ES as well.. - (Air) filters (all of them) - Replacement of all fluids for brakes, transmission, power-steering, motor, coolant etc. - Spark plugs - What milage is the car?

Have a look here (under interior DIY): DIY

I´ve installed these types for a 2000 GS300: Denso Before Catalytic Converter Oxygen Sensor - OE Replacement, 4-wire, 1998-2005 Lexus GS300, part: NP2344626 Denso After Catalytic Converter Oxygen Sensor - OE Replacement, 4-wire, 1998-2005 Lexus GS300, part: NP2344603 If you 're on it, maybe replace both.

Good that it sorted out ;). For step 2; perhaps the ECU didn't appreciate it, so consider an ECU-reset by disconnecting the battery for a while. Let's hope the check-engine warning sign disappears and no electronics are damaged.

"but the connecter thingy wont lock in as is did before" If you can't push it in all the way, it seems there's something bend or obstructive.

Have you tried detailing (claying) out the bird-stains? This can give excellent results, although depending on how much the bird*bleep* has eaten away your top-layer. A 'good' paintjob depends heavily on the match between new and old paint, otherwise you notice a distinct difference between bumpers/fenders etc. (better sell at night then ;) ). For the bird-part, maybe you can speak to a professional detailer first? For the nicks; a good touch-up job can work miracles, concentrating only on nicks involved. It's hard to give a sound advice without actually seeing it, perhaps you can post some pics.

I've driven a car (manual transmision ) with bad mounts, where the shifter would move between particular gears as well exessive driveline lash, but no rough idle. I (cheaply) fixed it by jacking up the motor and fill the mounts with polyurethane, but I wouldn't recommend. Try revving the motor in neutral for unusual movement, although this won't always give away bad mounts. From the symptoms you describe and also considering the age of the car, the mounts are suspect.

There might be some 'freeplay' in an engine/drivetrain component, worn studs, loose battery etc, moving back and forth when accelerating. I assume you might have figured this out yourself too ;) If you can't pinpoint the cause, best advice is to take it in for a check to prevent worse. I guess it shouldn't be too hard to find, as it's easily reproduced at will.

I experienced a likewise noise at same speeds. Best described as wind blowing through a hole, pardon me language :P You might have a look under your car and see if the rubber chassis plugs are still in place, also for leaks (a hole) in the exhaust system. In my case, a hole in the muffler explained the concert.

The shaking of the engine points to misfiring, due to bad air/fuel mixture or clogged line. Did these incidents take place when the tank was almost empty, or do you drive your tank often empty? Suspects are most likely; pumppressure, f-filter, stuck injector, sparks (perhaps a loose cap). All this should be checked by the dealer/shop in the first place. Although there are mixed feeling about additives, you might try an injectorcleaner. Take note if incidents share common terms; like was it a very hot day / raining / cold / almost empty tank etc.

This hurts.. Where I live, The Netherlands, this car goes easily for 4-5 times the amount (in fair condition and if you can find one) Back to your question; it has some milage, but it all depends on regular service and maintenance. If maintained well, it should blast you far more miles. Pics are nice, but can hide the infamous 1000 words. Just thorough check for known issues, like belts, transmission, master cilinder, general state of bodywork, brakes etc. However, for this price you can repair almost all and still pay less ;) If it's in a good state, darn, I envy you!

I don't think it's harmful to use the regular for now and swap at 3K miles to synthetic. If you drive a (old) car that is used to regular oil, a swap to synthetic can sometimes generate problems. It might not 'feel' right, but for now you should let it for what it is and swap to synthetic again at 3K.