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About intakerGS

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    Advanced Club Member

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  • Lexus Model
    2K GS 300
  1. Have a look at this topic: p1135 In it a diagram to measure and check the sensor (or wiring harness). It's good practice to reset the ecu by unplugging battery or ecu-fuse, run the car a few miles to see if the light goes off (ECU detects correct readings). Sidenote: You need to be sure the AFS you got from the dealer is specific for your car. Later models AFS's are not interchangeable and resistance for heating element is different, which can trigger a CEL.
  2. I've never heard of VCS lights come on after being on a ramp. I've heard of people driving down a slope and braking, when VCS came on. It might be a loose gas cap, perhaps check it's tight and clicks when you turn it. You can 'reset' by unplugging the battery or ecu fuse / drive around for a while. If that's not helping, you may consider a readout of OBD codes. When the car was on the ramp, what did you service?
  3. Did you replace by original/OEM A/F sensors ( Toyota factory or Denso)? I know some aftermarket sensors won't cut it.
  4. It seems common, according to this: noisy injectors
  5. Yes, it can be done and fits. You need to cut and splice the wiring
  6. Bank 1 sensor 1 is between the radiator and engine.. Bank 2 sensor 1 is between the firewall and the engine (back side of engine).
  7. Happy holidays John, You might consider to get the car on a vehicle lift and turn the wheels, to exactly pinpoint the source of noise. Also, there's less stress on the front suspension and related parts, to see if the squeaking stops. I would suspect tie rod-, lower control arm / bushings etc, but usually you experience also some steering inaccuracy or perhaps 'clunk' sounds when accelerating or hitting a bump. B.t.w, I assume you've checked the balljoints. Be careful when greasing rubbers. They are not supposed to be greased and when you do for diagnose, make sure u use a rubber safe sillic
  8. Wheels peeling and flaking seems a common problem (not only for lexus) and is intensified by age, weather condition and ice treatments. It also depends on how you treat your wheels and clean them. If you perform a search on this site, you'll encounter many topics covering flaky wheels. It's best to keep your wheels at bay during the wintermonths and instead use 'cheap' steel wheels. Anyway, besides buying new ones, you can have them repainted or better, powdercoated. Powdercoating gives excellent optical results and is far more resistant against future flaking and spicy road treatments. You
  9. All cars have some form of vacuum powerbooster, but that's not the same as the electric brakepump, implemented into the 2K+ GS models, providing automatic and full hydraulic power to supplement a quick or strong brake-pedal movement. Earlier models didn't have this (electric pump) feature and is noticeable in (less) braking force. In general, people tend to brake harder (and later) with this feature, as it's more easy to do so. Btw, I got that info from my dealer, as they experienced a big difference in longevity of brakepads in cars that do (or do not) have that option. Very true, but a qu
  10. Battery life is also determined by the way you use the car. For example, many starting cycles, coupled with short trips (less then 15-20 minutes), will keep the battery below it's optimal charge spec. A cold climate shortens lifespan too. Btw, the 2007 IS250 comes factory with a maintenance free battery and by lexus specs, lifespan is between 3-5 years. would be a wise thing to do. Rafiki; is this your battery?
  11. The 2001+ GS models use an electric pump to assist in braking, so worn pads at 44K can easily be true. However, worn rotors seems a bit premature at this stage. Perhaps the former owner was some kind of braking enthousiast, you never know. If you take a look at the rotors, you likely notice a 'lip' on the outer edge. This lip represents the original thickness of the rotor. When heavily pronounced, the rotors might be out of spec re. minimum thickness. This can be measured and should not be more then +/- 2 or 3 mm's (if I recall correctly). Miminum thickness is sometimes stamped on the hub of
  12. Could be electric malfunction (connectors can get brittle over time) or valve self, affected by low oil or sludge. If you do a lookup on this site, there are some topics covering OCV's. I wouldn't be suprised if the cam-sensor code is related to the OCV malfunction.
  13. Can't imagine it's the cam-sensor after 3 times replacement. You can try to measure the resistance between the terminals of the sensor. Pull the connector: cold should be 985-1,600 Ohm, hot: 1,265-1,890 Ohm. If it's within spec, you might consider to check harness and wiring to the ECM for open or short. Re. P?565, if you place a 0 or 1 before it, it points to the cruise control circuit.
  14. Are you sure it's not a timing chain? Those can last almost a car's lifespan.
  15. Could be your sensors, brakepressure etc. It would be best to take the car in, to read the OBD codes first.
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