92Lex

Remove upper high tension cord holder-(2)10mm bolts:

Remove drive belt by placing your wrench/rachet over this bolt and turning it counter clockwise while using your other hand to guide the belt off:

Remove fan clutch:

Remove fan clutch by loosening these 4 bolts behind it:

Remove this bolt and the one on the other side to remove the radiator, disconnect the 2 ATF hoses at the bottom of the radiator...then remove radiator. Your bolts are probally bigger because someone replaced mines with different bolts:

Drain radiator coolant from radiator before you proceed with this next step. Disconnect coolant hose from thermostat housing:

Remove those 2 hoses to the right, 2 bolts then loosen the clamp to the throttle body and remove throttle body cover and air cleaner assembly:

This is the assembly that you have to remove those 2 hoses, clamp, throttle body cover and 2 screws from. Once you have the rectangle cover (throttle body cover) from the picture above off, remove this assembly:

Disconnect the plug leading to the Mass Air Flow sensor from this and remove the 2 bolts and loosen clamp:

Take off dust cover, then unhook the clamp, (1) 10mm bolt then air filter housing:

Delete this one please

Tools required :

Breaker bar

Socket wrench

A couple of extenstions

Torque wrench capable of reading at least 181 lbs

Sockets - 8mm, 10mm, 14mm, 17mm, 22mm, 10mm hex

Harmonic balancer remover

Parts replaced:

Timing belt

Water pump

No.1 idler pulley

No.2 idler pulley

Tensioner

Additional recommended parts to replace:

Spark plugs

Distributor caps

Distributor rotors

Spark plug wires

Air filter

Thermostat

Front crankshaft oil seal

Camshaft oil seals

Serpentine belt

Remove air duct - (1) 10mm bolt :

Me? I already went ahead and did that last weekend.

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Opps, sorry I meant lowrider :whistles:

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It's all good...I love my car and I just didn't want anyone to think that I was neglecting it.

You could do either....the best thing to do is to have the computer turn it off by itself though. If the light really bugs you then you could just disconnect the battery terminals (negative first) to turn it off....if the light comes back on you'll know that it's something else. Usually a loose cap would give you a CEL and a code for low fuel pressure...but it could be something else.

Congrats on your find! I think that's a pretty good deal, especially since all of the above maintenance have been done.

Check out this link for detailing your car... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=9798

I'm not sure on what OE tires for the LS' are. Yeah, 600 is pretty steep but it's sure well worth it...afterall, tires are the only thing keeping you planted to the road.

The previous owner of my LS was driving when the timing belt broke.  He said it just stopped, this was around 130 or 135K...I'd have to look at my records.  That was the original timing belt.  There was no damage when it broke.  So 92Lex, I can only recommend checking yours and just replacing it.  But.....I can see how you would want to see how long it can go.  Remember that Seinfeld where Kramer and a car salesman see how far below the red E on the gas gauge they can go?  Hahahah , same thing here, how far can it go?!?

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Me? I already went ahead and did that last weekend.

I wonder how long it would take to get the odometer to read all 9's?

When I purchased my car I also purchased a new set of OE mats from ebay. The mats were only $97 on ebay and I've seen LS430 mats go for about the same price. At first I was afraid to get them dirty so I would take off my shoes and pull out my driving shoes from the trunk. I ended up getting too lazy to do this all the time so I figured that I'd just replace these mats every year....at under $10 a month getting them dirty isn't really a big deal to me.

I think darker mats look dirtier when they do get dirty...especially black.

Everything that sticks and falls on the carpet shows up and stands out on the darker background.

Contact cleaner? Like dust-off?

How much did the whole set cost you? What tires were your car sitting on previous to these?

That's pretty good but it would suck to be stranded 61 miles away from home. 1st gen LS' are non-interference but it would be a good idea to take off the timing belt covers and take a quick peep at the condition of the belt. I just changed the timing belt on my 91 with 140k....the belt looked perfect but I just wanted some peace of mind...plus the change interval for is like 7 years or 90k. I'm all about that challenge, I'm trying to rack up them miles just for the heck of it.

You''ll lose your subwoofer amp but it should work unless the DVD player isn't preamplified. If it's not preamplified then yeah, that sounds right. If you're going to replace the stock HU you might as well replace amps and speakers while you're at it...you'll definitely hear the difference.

Earlier today I noticed that the lights that indicate what gear I'm in on the dash wasn't illuminated. It shows P & N but when I go through the other gears it doesn't light up. If I wiggle it a bit it'll light up but when I take my hand off of it it goes black again. Is this just an electrical malfunction or is it something else?

I did get it to start but it had no power....felt like a v4. Spoke to my brothers friend who used to work for Lexus and he told me that my timing was probally off a tooth. I eye balled it the first 3-4 times and everything seemed to be lining up correctly. I grabbed a cigarette box to match the marks up just to make certain that my timing was dead on and guess what, he was right...it was off by a tooth. So instead of just repositioning the belt and cam pulleys I ended up changing my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, idler bearings. I figured since I was that close I might as well replace all that stuff just to have some peace of mind. I took the car for a spin last night and everythings real smooth.

I took pictures as I went along and will be posting them in the tutorials. LOC is a great place with a great deal of help so I'm trying to give back however I can. Thanks everyone!!

Try - http://www.lexus-parts.com/prodlist.asp?ModelID=60

You could purchase blanks on ebay to have as a spare key just in case you lose the other one.

I plugged in the TPS and MAF when I was reassembling everything and yes, my check engine light does work when the key is in the key on engine off position.

92 lex: did this happen as soon as you changed plugs? because i had someone change to iridium plugs and the car wouldnt idle, and as soon as he put the original stuff back in the car ran fine.

another possibility is that your ignition coil is gone. any friends with the same car? you can try change out and see if that solves it.

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Yes, this happened after I changed out the plugs but I also threw in the old ones just to rule that out. I spoke to my brothers friend that worked at a lexus dealership before and he told me that my timing belt probally jumped a tooth. So I just finished taking everything apart so I could play with the timing belt. Tried adjusting it but the installation marks on the belt are no longer there and it's hard to actually see where it should line up exactly. I was planning to reposition it according to the book but since my timing may be off I didn't make any new marks on the belt. So my car is in pieces right now and I'm trying to figure out a way to get the marks to line up perfectly....any suggestions?