92Lex

Thanks, Im going to switch to 5w-30 for my next oil change. I just thought that once your car has over 75k on it switching to 10w would be more benificial to your motor. With the 10w-30 currently in my car Im getting 350 miles a full tank with the a/c on all day...I guess it wouldnt hurt to get better gas mileage.

BTW, Im using Mobil1.

After reading the extensive pinned post "Everything You Need To Know About Oil" I kind of scratched my head and had second thoughts. I read through my owners manual and the recommended weight is 5w-30..but theres a chart in there showing that if you operate your car in climates from 0 degrees to 100 degrees plus that 10w-30 is okay. I live in California, so I figured 10w-30 would be the oil of choice because it doesnt get anywhere close to 0 degrees anytime of the year here. The thing thats weird is my car is hard to start when cold, its not like i have to crank the !Removed! out of it to start but rather it kind of hesistates when I first start it up, regardless of how warm it is outside. After my car is warmed up I could shut it off and itll start up real real easy for the rest of the day...its just the initial warm up of the day that it has problems with. Does this have anything to do with me using 10w-30 instead of 5w-30? Shouldnt I run 10w-30 anyways because its an older car with higher mileage? I curious to what everyone else on this forum is running in their Lexus, and weather conditions that the vehicle is subjected to. Thanks.

Its a luxury car....keep it that way.

Damn, guess what....I measure the IAC counts and it read 0....so I guess the PCM was trying to reduce the idle speed all along without any luck. I finally fixed the problem though, it was a massive leak from the brake booster! Thanks SRK, and everyone else.

If anyone is looking for a used car or anything at all you all should try www.craigslist.org, its a great site and prices are usually very competitive.

1800 rpm is normal on a cold start. I still cant figure out what my problem is though...Im not too exited about replacing the computer right now though..its an expensive nonreturnable part. Would suck if I have to tell the cutomer I cant do anything about it. The idle is computer controlled but the computer can only work within certain parameters. I was thinking maybe an air leak before the O2 sensor?

According to the ebay description it says that the module is hooked up to the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, in theory it should work because its probally tricking your IAT to send off a signal saying the engine is colder than it actually is..that in turn makes your car run richer. Richer running car at higher temperature = more power. I wouldnt buy it though....if he/she is saying these units go for 200-300 dollars why wouldnt he/she sell it for a bigger profit versus selling it for 20 dollars? Plus look at his ebay feedback score...its a zero.

A 96 LS400 came into the shop after failing at a Test Only station yesterday. I grabbed my scan tool and monitored all the parameters shown on the data stream and found the idle speed too high. The ECT reading was .7 volts, so I thought maybe the coolant temperature was lower than the sensor was indicating...I checked it with the infrared pyrometer and found that it corresponds to the temperature reading. There was nothing wrong with the ECT to cause the fast idle. I installed a new IAC valve but the idle speed is still too high...so I went ahead and adjusted the throttle stop screw..to my fkn amazement the idle still remains high.

Where should I go from here? PCM doesnt have control over idle speed?

Finished working on my brakes earlier....it was real easy and straight foward..flushed the brake fluid while I was at it too. Took it for a test spin and everything seems real smooth and no more squeaks either. Thanks.

I bought a can of Brake Stop Squeak, so I should just spray this on the inside part where the 2 shims meet? Am I on the right track? The front pads that I purchased this morning came with 1 shim per pad....is it best that I just use these new shims provided? Any difference between Lexus shims and aftermarket shims? Thanks for the feedback.

is it an aerosol spray??

the best thing to use is just the brake lube, its think, and very durable to high heat....they should have given u a tiny packet of it,,,,its enough to do both sides.

yes, use the new shims

i don't know if there is any difference in the shims.............i mean ur old shims are 12 years old i suspect. thats the only difference i would imagine

Yes, its an aerosol spray can, I did a sample spray on some cardboard....it comes out red and dries a little tacky. But yeah, it does make sense to use the new shims...never really thought about them being 12 years old. Problem is they only supplied me with shims for the front pads, the rear pads didnt come with any. Thanks.

I bought a can of Brake Stop Squeak, so I should just spray this on the inside part where the 2 shims meet? Am I on the right track? The front pads that I purchased this morning came with 1 shim per pad....is it best that I just use these new shims provided? Any difference between Lexus shims and aftermarket shims? Thanks for the feedback.

Im planning on changing my brake pads tomorrow and was wondering, will my brakes will squeak if I reuse the old shims? Whats the purpose of the shims anyways? Any help figuring this out would be greatly appreciated..Thanks.

If it was a speed sensor the D4 should flash...Im leaning more towards the CMP, maybe your timing belt slipped a tooth. Check your timing.

I had the exact same problem a couple of weeks ago with my Legend. I pulled out all of the bulbs and found some 1157 bulbs instead of 1156 bulbs...I just replaced them with the correct bulb and everything works fine now.

Could be the crank position sensor, if it loses signal your motor will stall.

Cant you just relocate the O/D button somwhere else and install a shift knob without the O/D button on it?

Mines is blacked out sometimes but works perfectly fine when the car heats up from sitting in the sun. I think it has more to do with the LCD screen being damaged rather then an intermittent electrical problem. Was it hot in your car when you started it up?

205/65-15's provide too small a contact patch with the road to provide really good braking on a 4,000 pound car

205/65/15 is the tire that the first generation LS400's with the OE 15 inch wheels came from the factory with

205-65-15 is the correct size Lexus equipped their 1st gen LS400's with but he wants to upgrade to a better tire. Not everything coming from a manufacturer is going to be perfect.

I have 3 right rims and 1 left on mines....everythings going smooth. 225 should fit on the stock rims without any real problems, the sidewalls are just wider..better handling plus it helps protect your rims from curb marks too.

Do I need to purchase a key with a transponder though? Howcome I cant add on a keyless entry key anyways? I was looking through some website that had a walk through on how to program one of those keys. When I purchased the car the previous owner only had 1 regular key...kind of sucks to know that if I ever lose this one key (which Im prone to do) that Ill be s@!# outta luck. Thanks.

My 92 LS400 is equipped with keyless entry but I dont have the key for it. I saw some keyless entry keys on ebay but Im not sure which ones will work. There are some on ebay with trunk release and panic buttons...will those work? Can I just use any Lexus key blank or does it need to be one with a transponder? I know the keyless entry function only works within 3 feet of the vehicle but Im super lazy. What are my options? Has anyone ever brought their own key in to cut at the dealership? How much is the cut? Thanks.

thanks for the info...i was able to finish the job in about 30 mins. the bolts wasnt all too bad to remove..i sprayed a little wd40 to get it loose.

clearance wasnt all too bad either...at first glance i thought "how the f@$! am i supposed to fit under there?". im probally going to drain it everytime i change my motor oil. thanks, real helpful.

isnt it longer? i thought the relocated the fog lights from the 95-97s...then extended the grill?

your car is obd2 right? im assuming it is and obd2 only illuminates the CIL if its emissions related..so the power steering pump, oil pan and dipstick were not required repairs to turn off CIL. if your car happens to be obd1 then illuminated light would indicate a something that may cause a driveability problem...obd1 does not detect emissions related problems. egr pipe would fall under emissions related component.