azmalu

on lex my first suggestion is buying metra kit for single iso and using dremel to fit double din either way mounting brackets on back shoudl be same also check ebay for auctions for kits...16 vs 35 usd...

Hey guys 90 ls an owner in between my dad who had it for 5 6 years and the last year when somone blew out the engine the speakers stopped working...the sub plays and the tweets up front play...i was thinking it was the fronts and mid and tweet and sub but when i listened closely i realize its just tweet and sub....is that sitll related to the phone being removed...or something else anyone have any suggestions for diagnosis.... please advise.....

facliott thanks for the input but let me clarify "run comps of HU power 45x4 19 RMS . and Ed sub" ... this means I want to run a component set of speakers seperate woofer and tweeter of aftermarket headunit power which in this case is my kenwood ddx 7015 rated at 45x4 peaks and continious power of ~20 watts per channel. "I think I want to gut out this system though. passive xovers from the nak system are no fun " Gutting out systems in my case means running new speaker wire so that I can bypass factovery passive xovers that are inline and no longer use any power from nak system amp because I will have aftermarket doubel din unit installed... I truly cant remember whether the metra kit i bought for my 94 was practically the same thing where its designed to fit iso or single din but with a dremel rotozip etc you can fit the double din. OThers have posted the question about double din kit but one person has just showed picture of someone else with it but no one has responded as to where to buy it. ebay has the single din units and so does autotoys.com I havent pulled door panel off yet so I dont know what you mean by box can you exapnd(please dont take antyhing I am saying as sarcastic....(i sound like a smart !Removed! by nature please forgive me) so heating up pins allowed old unit to be removed right. Then i heat pins again and new one will stick? ...sounds easy i might spend the hundred bucks and try it any feedback about ebay auctions for lcd displays 100 bucks... see my post at end of this thread... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=83&st=120 once again thanks for the input

This is what I bought and Toysrme said same kinda thing...I trust my meachanic(thats why i drive 30-40 minutes to him and leave car for a day or two) but he said i bought the wrong thing...when you say fill it do you mean take out old mount (which is not this part(pictured below) and put this thing inside of "rear mount"?

Hey guys i have used the search feature and have not found what I am looking for. Now that being said ..... I drive a 94 es and have the option of buying mothers 98 es(170k) or dads 90 ls (315k new motor with 150k put in last week) I just picked it up and love driving it. There was one owner in between for about a year and they took out cell phone so rears dont work. I found a thread about that so I can figure out how to get those to work. I think I want to gut out this system though. passive xovers from the nak system are no fun I want to put my double din dvd player in and run comps off HU power 45x4 19 RMS . I blew out perfect 12 via 600 rms from JBL bp600.1 after a year and half so I need to step up to something that can handle more rms power + 3 year warranty.... my 94 es with double din dvd using metra kit ED 130v2 dvc 4ohm 3 yr warranty xmax 18.3 spl 89.1 So after you read through the wall of text my questions are: 1. What metra part no. can I order and mod to fit doubel din? 2. What is mounting depth on doors? 3. Has anyone fit 6.5's in door after bondo work etc? 4. Is oem speaker size 4 or 5.25 or neither? 5. Where is the best place to go through firewall and run 1 ga. power wire 6. What is amp rating on factory alt? Unrelated question...don't flame for asking about climate control I have read some threads... 1. Assuming you have bought climate control LCD for 100 bucks and have minimal experience soldering is the replacement project rather easy to do (10-15 solder points for removal and replacement) Otherwise does Jim on here do the soldering work alone if I buy the LCD? lcd install instructions soldering 16 pins 2. Lights for brake shifter anyone know the size and quantity needed or just go to dealer and tell em I need it. 3. Im assuming at dealer the leather portion of the shifter is pretty pricy . Will 90-94 shifters all fit or is ther a way to touch up existing shifter knob? Same with steering wheel if its beat up anything other than putting on a cover? 4. Cigarette ligher compartment stays open but I havent taken it apart . Is there a tab that is most likely broken or somethign just jammed or do is it a replacement part only? Please advise.

Hey guys my mechanic just called and said the rear motor mount I got is not the right part. I had a feeling that would happen because the part I got cost 35 bucks from NAPA but Autozone special orders the part takes 3 days and would cost 150 dealer wanted 175. Does anyone know where I can get one somehwere in between or should I expect to pay that much. Please advise.

driver side seat in tan...if you still have and panels for front door...

hey guys i have a es but just got ls same thing...very little mod had to be done metra kit I bought brackets in the back was the only pia.....basically its designed to fit single din and have ashtray holder etc in bottom portion..

Okay I have the rest last five years of this thread and now its my turn to put my 2 cents in .....Ebay auction has lcd available for around a hundred bucks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-90-94...1QQcmdZViewItem ...... userid mercuryrunner 100 percent feedback 60 feedbacks.... here is link for removal... and replacement http://www.lextreme.com/lcdtech.html ....Personally I dont feel comfortable soldering so I think I will have to also email jim walker or find someone on cl that would do it.

315k on a 90 new motor with 150 put in this week.....on 96 with 325k original motor...

oh okay i guess in arizona we dont turn on any defrosters...so ive never seen my heated mirrors in action...would you think camry is same size mirror....also does their a pillar look the same or did the mid 90's amry have the full frame door and no "premium sound" package with seperates...

i have a 94 and dont have anything on my dash that activates heating mirrors do I?

okay i guess i shouldnt compalin but for once of glass thas hella pricey....prolli doesnt cost more than a buck or two to make mind...

On the freeway my window regulator went bad and i was fidgetign with window as a simulatenously sideswipped one of those dam construction reflector things and mirror fell of. The assembly is intact and motor still reacts proper but actual mirror piece is gone. Dealer wants 50 bucks Im guessin salvage yard is best bet. Any other suggestions...checker autozone dont have a generic one that fits jap cars...Also If I need a new tweeter cover on a pillar ...salvage yard as well or anywhere else?

I called autozone and if they special order rear motor mount its 150 and I rememer dealer being a little more and they had to get it in. Based on what I spent for strut mount and front(combined around 50) the rear costing 150 alone seems absurd but we live in an absurd world. Can someone confirm if this is the right part.

Over the last few months that I have been holding key longer hear machine gun before it starts. Wire from batt is fresh 4 ga. ofc and no corrossion but I wonder if replacing starter contacts is actual issue. Thread I read indicated that when replacing those contact you need wood block pressure of like 220lbs. I have no idea what that means. Ithought it was just something you took off and put on. I feel comfortable working on my car but now i feel like paying 20 bucks for contacts and effintg it up will be more costly than replacing starter for around a hundred.... Also what determines if you have bad solenoid in starter or bad starter or bad contacts(corrosion visble in contacts right?) and if ignition coil is bad or if something else within igntion is what makes it take longer to start. I never have the problem of it not starting on first turn its just that it takes longer than normal so I feel a little jerk when it does.

i dont think im using the right keyword search on google..i need just the mirror alone dont need whole side view mirror assembly dealer wants 50 bucks for mirro i can get whole assembly for 50 bucksat yard...also need a new a pillar pod (cover for tweeter on door) ...

toys you dont see how what could happen? I know should have all 3 done at once but this weekend had to spend 200 bucks on o2 sensors and intake manifold(front sensor would not come out) ........... if hood is up and sitting in driver seat you can see that sheet jump.. but not as noticable when looking from the front. .dealer is about 75 for that mount ...whats good place online for it? Also will have mechanic check timing belt that was last done at 90k..Should I just buy belt from park place lexus? or aftermarket from autozone checker pep boys etc my dad has ls with 325k wthat he bought at 175k and he still hasnt done it.....whats the longest yall have gone after 1st replacement?

See guys these are pics of old and new. I feel like for being a day old the new installed one is not too far from being where I was....Please advise.

Yesterday my mechanic replaced front and top (dogbone) mount. I was already concerned when I saw the job because top mount still wasnt centered so I had a feeling it will fall apart soon again. The only reason I thought it was okay is because car was silent in idle. This morning was fine then at lunch I just started hearing noise and feeling some vibrations(not Marky Marky Good Vibrations either) from front left. Inspected mount and it seems likes its moving. He mentioned taking off old was easy but for the new he had to wedge rod behind engine to move it forward enough for it to fit. Keep in mind I wrecked this in 2003 and had to replace the whole front clip. but no noise and vibration issues till the last month or two. He said bottom mount is a pain to get to but I will try and check it out tonight. Before I throw more money into replacing that one too should I bich at mechanic about not doing job right? will post pic of new top mount installed when I get home. 1 hour and half labor for this job at $90 Reasonable or closer to rape?

guys when i did my plugs the connectors that look like spark plug wires(but have a different name) had a lot of rust and buildup inside . Is cleaning it with degreaser lubricant starter fluid etc a bad idea? Can I replace the wire portion without the square shaped mechanism on each plug that is 130 bucks from checker?

Are those 1mzfe instructions or different. I remember seeing a lot of hex nuts on mined. They seem kinda worn too...Does it make more sense to try and use drill bit hex to get those loosened or an actual hex key itself. I feel ike im making it worse when I used a hex key but drill bit didnt sound like a good idea...please advise.

guys the explanation helped but park place has higher pricing on the one they referece as the transmission mount... "Thanks for your email. I have received your request for pricing on the mounts. Your price is $92.60 for each motor mount and $57.00 for the transmission mount, plus shipping, if applicable." These are what I ordered as referenced in the thread.....Did the price just go up or am I missing something Part number 12361-50100 Engine mounts $91.67 each ( I ordered 2 of these) Part number 12371-50060 Trans mount $32.10 (I ordered one this) Is the price listed at 57 just list hat part they are referencing a differnt part. This is for a 91 ls ....325k miles btw....

ptoscano...unfortunately if you are tellin the truth you got hustled...There is metra kit double din adapter for our car that is like 40 bucks directly from them and then if you really wanted a textured finish like that you could do it without spending 225 more dollars....my 2cents....and why is a for sale post in the general forum anyway..."?

someone hlep out saintex and me and respond....i will inspect my tranny mount today...