azmalu

Golfnutt...I got to the same point as you and then got stuck...(got thre the nuts off)...did you end up figuring it out or takin to shop spendign ungodly money...also have you attempted to take upper intake manifold off yet...same area required to do spark plugs number 4 5 6 ....contemplated it yesterda but too late at night...other than fsm wonder if someones got a duy for it and i just cant find it using search...ill post pic if get er done.... toysrme thanks for trying to help me but I guess this job is just more complicated than my skills. I know I have to remove the egr valve from the egr pipe in order to clean the passage way and unstick the valve if that is the problem. I still have no clue on how to remove the valve from the pipe to check the valve, guess I will just have to pay someone an ungodly amount of money to do something that is probably ridiculously easy to do. Thanks again for trying to help.

only the second had pic of bar...other had image of generic strut bar...does anyone spend on here spend more than 20 30 bucks for a bar?

From FAQ thread: 1."brakes are easy to change bembro make plain rotors but no slots or drilled i had mine custom made from bembro blanks with slots big difference in braking" 2."performance upgrades The suspension may be serviceable meaning you can just buy a regular shock not a whole strut with outer casing to replace it with much cheaper i think 92-94 where non serviceable and 95-96 are" 3."The windows will leak air if they are used to close the door rather than the actual door as they go out of alignment they can be realigned as the seals usually do not go bad. Also i use meguires tire endurance dressing to help it seal along the seal of all the windows door edges ,trunk and sunroof, once done it will improve the less of air whistle" 4. "It is not very hard to adjust the wiring but if doing this then replace the starter and ground as well to save some headache of splicing .My stereo works much better and plays much louder if i wanted it to. This also helped my seat heater issue of hardly feeling it. once i replaced all the wiring for them and added a really they work amazing now." ......................................................... 1.You mentioned you had yours custome made from brembo blanks. Does this mean you had a shop do this? Or directly from manufacturer or none of the above? 2. So 94 is no longer available as cartridge just buy what I find at auto part shop or for smoothest ride what is forum preferred brand? if any consensus. 3. Window alignment : Do I just find some local shop that offers service...In your part of the country how much would this cost approx? 4.If I read that paragraph correctly it indicates that you changed starter and ground which gave you the ability to have your stereo play "better" and "louder if you wanted it to" Whats the basis?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-CAMR...sspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STRUT-TOWER...sspagenameZWDVW both shippers in CA 21.98 26.95 ..cant possibly be a difference right? One is not any mor elikely to crack or bend than the other...did anyone spend a lot more money than 20-30 bucks for their strut bar? sorry for misspeling in subject edit wont let me change it.....

Please if you are gonna respond "use the search key" dont do that I read on here all the time and use search but I was wondering if someone had specific input to the these questions.... Toysrme thanks again for your previous help and input..... Me: 94ES300 160k miles broken window regulator driver side window temporarily rigged shut with little whistling until used one for comes in .. sitting at a red light in drive activates massage mode....and neutral turns it off... are my biggest pains....used regulator $60 and motor mounts on their way $80+ 15 for tranny mount 1. I bought Brembo blanks where do I go to get them slotted...How do I determine patterns or method to have it slotted? Any newbe thread to read about that other than simple pros and cons of slotted vs. drilled. 2. Skperformance mentions on 94+ you can buy shock alone instead of whole strut if it goes bad way too much noise when going over bumps etc....(just from autozone checker etc or where?) 3. I asked dealer if they do window realignment but they said no procedure like that exists....they suggested spending money on moldings(160) but I told them mined are not cracked or damaged its the actual position of the window causing the whisitling...Ill try and find some meguiars rubber sealant to apply after I install new window regulator this weekend to see if it fixes it....still who does window reallignment? Local auto shops? pretty pricey right? 4. Whats the corrlation of volume increase on stereo by changing starter. I could probabbly connect this to upgraded alt, rewound or new alternator but starter I dont get it....Ive already upgraded power and ground (4 GA) just havent rerun new power from alt long run and donno if I can take it apart and put it back together easily 5.Last question: in relation to rought idle I hear that cleaning out throttle body, cleaning ICV and EGR can help. Am I the only one having trouble taking of screws on EGR? I poured lubricant let it sit but still can t get it off...Also any method to clean the two vaccum units next to it with the pieces of cotton///fabric etc inside? Please if you are gonna respond use the search key dont do that I read on here all the time and use search but I was wonderinn if someone had specific input to the these questions....

Hey guys I am going to go through this process of cleaning ICV and throttle body but I remember even after doing this on my 94 maxima I had before that the shaking did not go away and while at a stop light etc as long as I put it into neutral it was okay. Does this sound more like a motor mount issue? The response to this thread seems like that might be the problem ... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...4115&hl=icv

Guys I have even used the search function I promise....There is no one talking about aftermarket regulator or actually attempting to use the camry unit and modding the connector...this is my feeble attempt at bumping the thread.... I have also attached pictures... http://www.geocities.com/azmalu/camrylex.jpg http://www.geocities.com/azmalu/coilandconnector.jpg

Airrace I wish I would have read this yesterday instead of looking at the clublexus forums for answers....I took mined apart and cut the coil on the wire beause I didnt think it was repairable(same kinda problem where it was all knotted up and gargled + bent out of shape...)....I just assumed a 94 camry would reg. work fine...I ended up just buying it from a junk yard 65 shipped....

tap has usually been great...im surprised it was soo pricey...they wanted 225 for used..window regulator assembly...

Hey guys I have a problem and tried to be clever and buy a window regulator aftermarket for a camry that was 60 bucks instead of 150+ from Lex dealer. I got it yesterday and realized it uses a different connector.The wiring looks like its just +/- that I could just solder together as oppossed to using plastic clips. I found a thread saying it wouldn't work... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=30969&hl= IS this true? Can anyone verify Can someone tell me why I shouldn't try this? Also, a place where I can get oem compatible window regulator without spending 100+ . It has to exist...I replaced the same unit on my maxima I used to have and it was also around 60 bucks online and over a 100 from dealer. The funny thing about some yards that post motor only is that it seems like motor is attached to the unit where the coil is I will post a pic of it to explain show what im trying to say. Worst comes to worse I order a used one from a salvage yard(which might not be a bad idea only 75 bucks plus shipping)

Yeah I was thining used wsa not a good call...knowing my luck I assumed it was waterpump but now I have a feeling it just might be the thermostat because wouldnt my coolant had drained or evena huge puddle of water under mycar if it was the waterpump? Dropped it off at mechanic hes gonan take a look mostlikely will have him test and replace timing belt too if it is the waterpump the arizona heat beats up anything that is rubber and can expand...

Hey guys I need your help. I drive a 94 160k miles never changed waterpump or replaced radiator and always maintain oil. Driving to work this morning car overheated. Pulled over plenty of coolant(of course its boiling and coming out of release valve) motor oil is fine so my guess is the waterpump. Before I have AAA take it to a/my mechanic any troubleshooting I can do to verify it is waterpump? Also any sense in buying a used waterpump. They seem to run about20-40 on car-part.com new is about 80? Whats your thoughts.....I rarely post but need your help.

I won an es300 and love but will be buying a gs shortly. I think II know various generations in terms of body style but other improvements that exists I am unaware of. Is there a thread that shows history of gs like 91-95 1st gen uses "fljsdfl engine" Xhp factory wheels trim levels explained common mods etc....2nd gen95-03 etc..yes I know my range is wrong but I think yuou get the idea... use skperformance for es300 started thsi thread.... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=1618 anything similar.....or volunteers to create one...

Is there something the driver can do to cause warpe rotors or is more of a manufacture defect kinda thing....

ill change out the brake fluid even though i hate doing that....i saw a tutorial to do it by myself....with the plastic jug and syphening or somethn like that.

good answers not really a sport application or hard driver. the one thing I have heard is that proact pads have a little bit of break in time....ordered them from autopartswarehouse.com who matched tire rack...I think I saved extra because tire rack doesnt list the premium pads but have the regular akebones listed for 53.00 so saved me like an extra 12 bucks. bought the blank rotors from samesite for 54

Its Christmas time and I'm broke but need to replac rotors and pads. I have searched and previous threads but for daily driving (mostly freeway) have yall noticed any difference between using Brembo blanks with says Akebone ProAct (dealer replacement) 1994 es

i cant find workshop tutorials...so many things ive asked you have referenced this...someone tell me where it is...deciding between oem blanks brembo blanks or brembo cross drilled all about 100 bucks....

yeah just a brief overview....http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t14716.html this is what ive seen i assum its pretty similar but any additional info cant hurt....btw what fluid did you use ?synthetic like amsol redline or somethin else

Does anyone have a link to a tutorial for a drain and fill on mid 90's 94 95 96 etc...Ive done oil changes and twice have searched for wher I would drop the tranny pan and drain but havent figured it out for sure. If where I am thinkingis right i need a hex key to release it? Am i way off? I would not call 265K "265,000 miles car". No one is saying synthetic is the best in the world case closed here. I use synthetic for the added protection and benefits OVER dino old-dextron 3. Can dino do the job sure. So can an old 486 PC too or analog systems. Some people want more and so are fine with the old stand bye for the lack of a better term. If you are using dino the key is charging out soon since or not go very long. It subjected to higher then normal heat good bye. For me the 4 qts of Amsoil every 40K is cheap, very cheap and I know it performs better (as the shirts are seemless). Is it the best, no. I also know may that have gone longer with dino and that is them, not me. Samething with oils. You get what you pay for and the oil tests will and do show it. ←

Sorry I should have posted pictures. I will do that tomorrow morning.....The 55 dollar price tag is for an unifinished gas tank lid. So basically that flap that opens that is screwed with two screws to the fram of the car. The clip that broke off is on the door and keeps the mechanis that is depressed in place until you hit the button at the drivers side door. I dont think velcro will work....lemme put pics and maybe yall wil have an answer. tap recycling in cordova california usually has whatever i need but they dont have any in stock so im kinda sol for now....

I dont have an idea on how to fix it so unless I want my lid to be continually open I have to replace it. Buying it from the dealer it is unfinished and it costs 55 . I m guess my best bet is to go junk yard hunting because I cannot find it online. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to keep it at least closed until I get a replacement. The reason I cannot repair it is because I broke of the plastic clip. If anyone has a repair suggestion that would be even better. 1994 ES300 Champagne colored. Or has someone on the forums wrecked their car recently and has parts to get rid of?

Colin I tried again but still need help. LIke said on step 7 the locks cycled(unlock lock) . So i Held the lock and unlcok button and it cycled again I think. Then let go of those 2 buttons and held down the lock button for 2 seconds nothin happenned no beep no lock cycling etc. IS that the last step because it still doesnt work. Im gonna look for another thread with directions maybe Im still doing something wrong or i might different steps for 97 es

sk search and see why what wont work?

http://www.mjmautosport.com/how%20to/chang...es300/index.htm This link had great step by step for new model. I remember when I did my last oil chang I contemplated doing the flush myself but never got around to doing it. The one thing I fear is replacing differential fluid. I dont have any kind of pump to do that with. Also interms of removing all the old fluid. If i understand correctly after the drain plug has been removed you should be able to fill atf bottle a few times with old fluid. Approx how much atf does 92-96 tranny hold? Also the only way to flush out all the old fluid is to continiue pouring in new fluid until its all red. I know its not done same as radiator flush where you can just the cleaner and water but is there any kind of solvent or chemical to be added?