on_chrome Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Some way some how friday night my engine detonated!!! and melted the tips off of spark plugs 1-3, burned a hole in the 3rd piston causing the 3rd valve to sieze, and the same with vave 2 and piston 2, don't know what has happened to head until it is taken off tomorrow. If the pistons 1-3 are fried and the head is burned, what is my best course of action??? I have extended warranty, and they should help with the cost of parts, but should I get a new engine, or build what I have??? If I build what I have, what is the most reasonable (cheapest) priced decent parts available and where can I get them for how much??? I am looking to make between 500wrhp and 600wrhp. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWJ Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 You need to find out why it blew first. I thought you were low compression? What happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VGR Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Some way some how friday night my engine detonated!!! and melted the tips off of spark plugs 1-3, burned a hole in the 3rd piston causing the 3rd valve to sieze,..... I am looking to make between 500wrhp and 600wrhp. Any help is appreciated. Engine Mods + teengage boy racer type driving style = blown engine. Your next Lexus engine will blow up too if you treat it the same way. For the sake of your bank account maybe you should get a Honda Civic to modify and race around the streets with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jzz30 Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 well like you said you will need to take the head off and see if you can rebuild it. and if you do the rebuild. expect the machine work to cost you over a grand. mine cost 1200 bucks on a 6 cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bean_8044 Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Engine Mods + teengage boy racer type driving style = blown engine.Your next Lexus engine will blow up too if you treat it the same way. For the sake of your bank account maybe you should get a Honda Civic to modify and race around the streets with. First, its a Toyota Second, its his car and he can do what he wants to it or with it Third....nevermind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OKSC3 Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 And make sure you track down the source of what caused your detonation. I take it if your making detonation that bad you must be blown (boosted) and you may have something faulty in your fuel system. The last thing you want to do is blow your new engine after your rebuilt because of the same problem. And if you do a rebuild take your time and do it right (have it done right), or your car the thing will never run good again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthor Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 VGR, we don't do that here...please address your fellow LOC member with a little respect. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadistic Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Before you start looking to make 550-600 hp safely, you need to do it at 450. Don't start jumping into something like that, until you know what the problem was, and how to fix it. Take the head off, and see. If you burned a hole in the pistons, I would think more than likely there is scaring to the block. You're atleast going to need a clean up bore, if not more. Now would be a good time to go forged, but the first thing to do is find out why it blew. That could be anything from boost spiking, to not being tuned correctly. After you find out what the problem was, the next course would be to fix that. Then decide what you are going to do. If you aren't going to go with a forged setup, I would suggest getting a new engine. That's just me, of course. And, depends on how much damage there is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWJ Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Yea - we build turbo cars here friend. Teenage boy racer types or not. Now that I think of it, I've never seen a teenage racerboy types with a turbo lexus. Just adult drivers with a fast car. Wanna race? but the first thing to do is find out why it blew. werd... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jzz30 Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 build that motor! get forged pistons and change out these rods. they are thinner than honda rods :o get some TT rods or something. and when its all back together get the thing tuned right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on_chrome Posted May 19, 2004 Author Share Posted May 19, 2004 seeing how it is part my fault for driving the car, would it not be part or whole fault on the performance shop who installed the turbo kit w/ head gasket that I specifically asked if that was a 8.5.1 h/g b/c that is what i wanted installed and what i wanted my compression to be at, and tuned it at 14 1/2 psi and told me it would be fine for me to drive at the current psi when infact it wasn't fine b/c i wasn't at 8.5.1 compression and more like 9.5.1 compression? Am i right or wrong, should they be responsible??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadistic Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 A head gasket to change compression that much would be massive. HKS makes a metal stopper gasket in 2mm which supposedly lowers the compression ration to 7.97:1 That is extremely low, but that doesn't mean that your engine can handle that much boost. Many other components can break under that stress. Like JZZ said, the rods are probably very thin, and would probably break under that amount of boost. Not to mention the fuel system may have not been enough for 14.5 psi of boost. I don't know what F-MAX rates their AIC package at. One of the problems I ran into with my Eclipse was, when the motor was built the last time, they didn't plug the knock sensor in. Because of this, I had zero fuel enrichment. It only took ONE time of boost over 6 psi to destroy the motor. Melted a hole through a forged piston, heat scared the chamber, lifted the head off. Now, I'm not saying this happened to you, but one little mistake could have made the entire thing to go ka-putt. I would suggest that when you go to try and find out what the problem was, you go very slowly, and double check everything. I'm not sure if I would let the shop you took it to do the inspection. It depends on how reputible they are. If you feel like they would lay the blame on you, without even checking into it, then I wouldn't. Even in my shop, I don't warranty things like this. It's a custom perfomance upgrade on a vehicle. By having something that isn't meant to be used on the vehicle by OE, you have the understanding that things like this can happen. I warranty every hour of labor that goes out the door, but not motors. If I looked at it and it was my fault, then I would warranty it in a heartbeat. That's just how I am. The bad thing is, it's too easy for a customer to leave, crank up the boost, blow it up, and try to blame my work for the failure. That's where an objective opinion, and trustworthyness comes into play. I would think this over, even down to when you were driving it. Did the car do anything previously to blowing? Did it show any sign? Did you play with the E-Manage at all? Was it in the middle of a 2-3 shift at full boost? Really look at everything, and don't be afraid to lay the blame on yourself. Responsibility needs to be taken by someone, and if the problem was your fault, then you should do that. Of course I'm not suggesting that it was your fault. The shop could've very easily made a mistake. I'm just saying, look at this objectively. Look at how the shop is going to react to having a blown motor sitting in their hands. And remember, take your time! That is the best advice that you can have right now. Don't rush into anything, and don't start laying blame until you find out what the problem was. That's just my .02. I do wish you luck in finding out what happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on_chrome Posted May 20, 2004 Author Share Posted May 20, 2004 thanks sadistic, yeah i talke with the shop today and they said they would help me out some witch is better than nothing. they said i need new pistons, rings, and a valve job, but!!!!! instead, i found a 2jz-ge motor w/ 40,000 miles for $900 with nothing wrong with it guaranteed!!! i am going to get an hks or greddy h/g and get it all installed. hopefully the shop will not charge for installation. and now it's time to get more fuel. i will keep y'all updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bean_8044 Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 Im not a big fan of the extra fuel injectors, just larger ones in place of stock. You could probably go up to 550s all around without affecting idle that much. Have you looked into the AEM EMS? it should be plug and play for the 2JZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sadistic Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 I have a friend with a 7M that jumped up to a 550's, a TT pump, and a VPC. The only thing that effected his idle was the VPC. I had one on my Eclipse too. Those things are probably the most brutal fuel computer you can get. So easily to be so off with that thing. Fine tuning isn't even possible. It's like a hit or miss deal. I heard a lot of software issues with the EMS when it first came out, but I haven't heard anything since. So I would assume that's all been taken care of. From the sounds of it, the unit is practically 'Miracle Machines' when it comes to tuning. Very easy to use, and also very easy to screw it up I'm sure with one comes the other :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.