threepwood Posted October 24, 2021 Posted October 24, 2021 I replaced my leaking power steering rack with a rebuilt one. When I turn slowly, everything is fine. When I turn quickly, everything gets very hard to turn almost immediately. I believe this means it isn't vented properly and when I turn rapidly I'm just compressing air. Any ideas how to get the air out. I have a friend who is a mechanic and he warned me these racks are very difficult to get the air out but had no suggestions on how. Also, does anyone know the function of the solenoid valve? Not sure I trust the functioning of the used one in the rebuilt rack versus just replacing it with mine. Thanks.
Bykfixer Posted October 24, 2021 Posted October 24, 2021 If it's air you'll see air bubbles in the power steering fluid resevior. Kinda like root beer foam. A way to get that out is place the front of the car on jack stands where the wheels are suspended and steer back and forth. If it's trapped air that should do the trick. If repeating that for 15-20 minutes and it still foams you have a leak somewhere that allows air to get sucked into the hydraulic system.
paulo57509 Posted October 25, 2021 Posted October 25, 2021 The attachment is for a 1998-2000 model year, but it still applies here. SR-3 Power Steering Fluid - Bleeding.pdf 1
threepwood Posted October 26, 2021 Author Posted October 26, 2021 Many thanks to both replies. I will give them both a try tomorrow and let you know how it works out.
threepwood Posted October 27, 2021 Author Posted October 27, 2021 Well, it may be a while before I can tell you if this worked :(. The pump is now pouring fluid out the front bearing every time you turn the wheel. Darn, I think she wants to be retired to a junk yard soon.
Jeremy M. Posted November 5, 2021 Posted November 5, 2021 That sounds unfortunate, but if you have some basic tools and there's a junkyard or pull-a-part nearby you, swapping out with a used PS pump isn't too difficult. Not certain about earlier models like yours, but my '98 had one 14mm nut on the front and two 14mm bolts accessible from the bottom, and then just disconnecting the hard lines. A used PS pump that you don't see hugely built up with grime (you're bound to see at least some grime on a nearly 30 yo car) is probably still working, and if you're feeling adventurous, you could try to rebuild yours.
threepwood Posted November 5, 2021 Author Posted November 5, 2021 Almost funny story. It is a lifetime advanced auto rebuilt pump. So far they have given me 5 free pumps since 2011 when the original went bad. This new one (number 6) is also free and is also going back for another (it took 2 the first time to get one that doesn't have a sticking pressure control valve, and this time is no exception). So on Thursday I get pump number 7. Hopefully it is lucky number 7. 🙂 PS - You are absolutely correct, the 4 bolts (2 front, 2 bottom) are 14mm and the inlet connection is 17mm. My biggest worry now is did the leak damage the alternator underneath. But not to worry, it is a lifetime Autozone alternator that has been replaced at least 4 times also. Last time the Autozone manager was so sorry about how bad his rebuilds were that he upgraded me at no cost to a "Premium" rebuild. I don't know what that means but this one has lasted 6 years, longer than any of the others. The battery idiot light on the dashboard is useless, I bought a cigarette lighter digital voltmeter that I constantly monitor. Good thing I like to work on cars. 🙂
Bykfixer Posted November 6, 2021 Posted November 6, 2021 X2 on the junkyard pump. Stash #7 for when the OEM one plays out. Either that or go to a NAPA store and buy one manufactured to OEM specs. But then again, you say you like working on cars……
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