When Park Assist is on in my GS, it is incorrectly sensing something when I put the car in reverse. Took it in to the dealer, and diagnosis was a failed sensor. Quote to repair is $500 for parts and service.
Technician told me they need to pull the whole bumper off to repair this... Seems pretty steep to me... anyone have any similar issue or experience with this? The car is no longer under warranty....
My elderly mother bought a brand new Lexus 350 about 10 years ago. It has only 41k miles on it. The airbag sensor is broken and Lexus no longer makes the part. They told us (in writing) that the vehicle is not safe to drive. They searched for a part and came up dry. They said I could get it fixed by a 3rd party but when I tried, nobody will touch it because of liability. Lexus is not willing to fix it with a used part. I would expect Lexus to make this right - provide another vehicle or some sort of compensation, but I was told because the car is no longer under warranty they will not. Really? isn't this Lexus we're talking about? I would expect them to stand behind their name. Perhaps their reputation is not reflective of who they truly are as a company. Has anybody else experienced something like this?
Hello all, I am a new owner of a 94 Lexus ls400. I bought the car from my brother about a week ago and he says it ran well for him. He recently changed the O2 sensors which cleared a CEL that he had. However he wasn't driving it much and it had been sitting for awhile. When I got it and drove it home it seemed to run fine. But about 2 days later I have the issue where if I step on the accelerator any more than a little less than half it will stutter or just flatline the engine to about 1000 rpm. I've been reading through some of the forums on this site and seen people talk about the problems with the ECU capacitors so that was the first thing I pulled. It had looked like someone had gone through that process before because some of the clips in the glovebox were already missing and the ECU looked brand new inside with no sign of leaking caps etc. Then I moved onto replacing the fuel filter which did look really rusted and old but that also did not help. So now I am moving onto the tps sensor. At my local AutoZone the cheapest one is about $100. But I have seen some online for as cheap as $12 up to about $30. So my main question is there really much of a difference between these. Some of the cheaper ones seem to still get good reviews being put onto other vehicles that they'd fit (Toyotas Volvo's etc.) Also if anyone has any other insight on what causes this issue would be great. The vehicle has 245k miles and runs perfectly otherwise as long as I'm light on the throttle. Sometimes I will get a quick flash of the Trac off light when this happens. Not always so I don't know if it's just coincidental or not. Thanks in advance for any input anyone has.
Hello. We just picked up this es300 in very good condition. We took a trip and during that trip, the overdrive stopped working. We made it home in limp mode, I disconnected the battery, reconnected, and the car has been driving fine for a few days now. Checked at O'Reilly's and there is no code for the knock sensors, which is apparently often the problem when the car won't shift into 4th gear. But, the no-overdrive problem seems to occur at times when the coolant sensor, engine sensor, thermostat, etc., isn't performing/reading correctly. So, I figured I should address the codes I'm getting now and see if the no-overdrive problem returns (yes, someone removed the check engine light so these didn't pop up when we bought it):
P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. After extensive reading, it seems that this code hardly ever occurs by itself and often resolves itself when you resolve another issue. So, I think we should wait on this and address the others first.
P1130 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1. B1S1, I believe, is behind the engine near the firewall. After reading a lot online, I think that if the B2S1 is replaced, this code might go away
P1153 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. This is the sensor right up front. I'm thinking that changing this might fix the other codes as well. Or, this is the best place to start, I'm guessing.
P1155 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. Again B2S1, the one in the front of the car that's easy to get to.
So, I guess I could buzz it over to my dad's house for him to check electrical continuity; or to figure out if the sensor's heater is working properly. However, I'm thinking simply replacing the sensor might be the best bet.
If I do change this sensor (B2S1), what is the Toyota part number? And, I've heard to not use off-brand parts for knock sensors, but since this is not a knock sensor, can I buy something locally at AutoZone that's readily available and comes with a warranty?
I'll probably do as you guys recommend. Much appreciated!!