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BLAISERSC430

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    SC-430

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  1. Just had my 02 SC430 in for service with check engine light. Pulled an Error Code of P-0430. Bank 2 (Passenger Side Catalytic Converter 02 Sensor). Had the local shop check it out and said the Catalytic Converter was bad along with the "Y-Pipe had a crack in it. So I decided to replace both front Catalytic Converters and Y-Pipe with new. Order the parts, parts came in and took the car to the local shop. Shop owner says he can bolt it up in about a 1-2 hours. Then got a call from shop owner and said the Console of my car has to be removed because that is where the 02 Sensor Plug Connectors plug in from the Pipe. Anyone ever come across this? Seems odd that the plug connectors are not right there by the Y-Pipe?
  2. PROBLEM FIXED ! Found a 40 Amp MAIN Fuse Blown in the Fuse Box under the hood on Passenger side just in front of the Battery. This is the MAIN STARTER fuse that is in line with the Main Computer and Starter. NOW I HAVE HEAD LIGHTS - Instrument cluster on dash board is BRIGHT AGAIN and the Starter Cranks Over !!! FYI - Car was hard to start at first because it loaded up with fuel, but all is fine now
  3. I would greatly appreciate a copy of the manual for my 1999 GS-300. Thank You! Shankopotamus@aol.com
  4. I have a 1999 Lexus GS300 with 185,000 on it. Last month the engine starting making a squeeling noise while driving home from work. Got home and shut car off in the street. Tired to restart it but the car would not turn over. I could tell there was alot of drag and drain on the battery. Tried Jump starting it and it really struggled to turn over. Finally it did and the engine made one hell of a racket and squeeling noise. As I pulled the car up from the street to my driveway my wife yelled "THERE'S SOMETHING ON FIRE" !!! I quickly stopped the engine and could smell rubber burning and billowing out of my hood. I promptly opened the hood and the billowing smoke dissipated. So i tried to start the engine again to see where the smoke was coming from. The Care struggled to turn over. The next morning I figured I would see what/where all the smoke came from. Tried to start the engine but to NO AVAIL! After further snooping around I saw the serpentine was smoked! I mean really smoked and worn so I figured I go get a new one and put it on. I literally took a knife to it and cut it off because it was dry rotted and worn. While looking at the engine I figured since I'm here I'll check all the pulleys, power steering, air conditioner, etc.. I tried to turn the Idler pulley and BINGO "COMPLETELY LOCKED UP" !!! This was the cause of the Billowing smoke and noise. The Serpentine belt was trying to spin and the IDLER PULLEY Was COMPLETELY GONE! I replaced the serpentine belt with an OEM BANDO BELT. I also replaced the Idler pulley, since I was there I figured I do a little preventive maintenance and replace/rebuild the Alternator since I knew this was the Original one.(not bad for 185,000) All went well until yesterday when I got in the car and the Starter would not engage, NO CLICKS, NO NOTHING COMPLETELY DEAD. So I figured my battery was shot, went up to Auto Zone and had them test it - It was bad...so I had a 3 year FREE REPLACEMENT Warranty and they replaced it without an issue. I figured I got this licked now, put the new battery in and tightened down everything and tried to start it. NOTHING - SLIGHT CLICK - NO GROANS - NO MOANS. ONE SLIGHT CLICK. LIGHTS INSIDE THE DASH WERE VERY DIM, I CHECKED THE VOLTAGE WITH MY METER AND BATTERY HAD 14 VOLTS. SO I FIGURED I HAD IT LICKED. WRONG..... Once again I thought I'd do a little preventive maintenance and remove the starter, Took it to my local Alternator Shop to have it tested and BINGO it was bad, so much so that the solenoid was fried along with the armature. Just got it back tonight because he had to order a BRAND NEW One, just got in installed in 20' Degree whipping wind here just outside Philly and buttoned everything back up and figured I'd give it a shot. WRONG -- went inside the car turned the key the lights were dim, do I figure I'd pull out my SNAP ON "JUMP BOX" to give it a little kick start. Turned the key and NOTHING - Starter does not engage - No Humming - Just a SLIGHT little click that is it? What else could it be - I even just went out and bought a new Starter relay but that did no help. I checked the fuses both inside the car on the floor board by your left leg in driver seat and the Fuse Box under the hood in front of the battery. There seems to be a clicking coming out of the relay box on the driver side. I just don't know what else it could be. Anybody have the same issue that could possible help me out? BANGING MY HEAD ON THIS ONE.........What does the IGNITER DO ON THE DRIVER SIDE BY THE FUSE BOX?
  5. I have a 2002 SC-430 with a locked Tilt Screen on my NAV SCREEN. I tried to hit the tilt button but that seems not to affect the tilt operation. Anyone have any similar problem with their screen? Any help would be greatly appreciated, it's bugging the hell out of me......
  6. Richard, Thank You! I thought so but I did not want to ruin the rim so I went to Lowe's and bought (10 Qty. M7 x 1.25) bolts to fit but some did not tighten all the way up. I'll run a tap through them and put the original bolts back in. Best Wishes and Happy New Year!
  7. Merry Christmas everyone! My wife was kind enough to buy me a new Rim for my 2002 SC-430 to replace the front right rim that was leaking a little. My question is - Does anyone know if the Hub Cap Bolts that hold the Hub Cap on are different sizes or is there only one size (M8 x 1.25) my old hub cap bolts won't fit into the new rim? (TOO BIG) Is there a chance that the new rim has too much paint build up inside the bolt hole? Let me know if any one has had a problem with this or know of a fix or remedy... Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!
  8. A Detailer at the Lexus Dealership told me he uses Woolite on the whole interior. It won't dry your leather up. It works awesome with hot water on my SC-430.
  9. Deb, Put them on my 2002 6 months ago, I wish the vehicle came with them. They are absolutely awesome and I did a whole lot of research on them. They are great in the water, dry condition and I even used them in the snow a couple of times pulling my car out of the driveway after the Blizzards and all the snow here in the Northeast region. The tires give you a tremendous ride but they are not as responsive as the run flats but you'll get over that once you put them on. They were recommended by a good friend who owns a Large Tire Retail Store. They cost me $165. per tire with mounting and balancing included in price. That beats the $458 dollars (per tire) for the Dunlop Run Flat DSST's. The drive is amazing, you'll love them. Just to let you know I had my car re-aligned after getting the new tires and had the technician pull the specs off my alignment before he did any alignment and then pulled the specs after. I had him take the negative toe out of the rear of the car as Lexus is noted for doing. Just a word of advice in which I did. They show NO SIGNS OF INNER EDGE REAR WEAR AT ALL. On a scale of 1 to 10, I gives these tires a 11. Enjoy you'll absolutely love them! Regards, Blaise
  10. Can anyone who owns a SC430 ever replace a Front Passenger Side Fog Light Bulb? It's not your typical turn and pop out socket. Any help would be appreciated! B)
  11. Pat, I did the same thing took off the Run Flats (got tired of paying $478. per tire for the Dunlop DSST's and replaced them with the Continental DSW's, what a difference, it's amazing on how sweet the ride is. I did take my Lexus to my local garage repair guy and had him take the negative toe out of the rear end tires. (the dealer won't do this for you) These were wearing very heavily on the Run Flat inner edges - but not anymore, but before I did that I had him give me a printout of the alignment before and then after he removed the negative toe in the rear. He said it was a !Removed! to move the passenger side though. Anyway these tires haven't show a bit of wear on the edges now or even across the whole tire! Hope this help, I know you will love the new tires to put on! :D Regards, Blaise
  12. Brian, I have a 1999 Lexus GS-300 and 2002 SC-430 the info attached is the process for the GS-300 that I wrote in a post. Read this and this might help you with your problem and help you in your plans to replace the SC-430 Starter. I have a 1999 GS-300 with 130,000 miles on it. Had lots of issues with the vehicle cranking over recently. Got into my car turned the ignition and click, nothing happened. Tried to crank the engine again and click! Nothing again...... My battery was my 1st thought but, my lights were bright and radio and fan were working right. So I saw a couple postings on the lexus owners club and thought I would tackle this job myself. This problem was intermitent, sometimes the car turned over and sometimes it didn't. Recently it would take me up to 10 minutes for the car to crank over and start, so I had to do something. I just finished up the job in about 2 hours (start to finish) and thought somebody might read this and make it useful. So here I go to try and tell you how to fix the starter problem and tell you what tools you'll need. Actually after doing the job it was well worth the effort. The problem turned out to be the "Copper Contacts inside the Starter Solenoid" with a total bill of $5.00 (yep I said Five Dollars if you do it yourself). Before you begin, locate your local Alternator/Starter Rebuilding Shop, you'll need them for the Copper Contacts that are located inside the Starter Solenoid ($5.Dollars) They sold them to me separately. Tools required: Patience, 10mm., 12mm.,14mm.,15mm,16mm socket, socket wrench, universal swivel socket attachment, (2) Extra Long Socket Extensions 12"inches each, 9/32"nds nut runner or socket. So here we go: Step by step 1st Things First - you'll need to disconnect your battery to the car both positive and negative leads. Pop your hood. You need a 10 mm. socket and socket wrench to disconnect the battery. (Remember, you'll lose all your settings on your radio, seat memory etc.... but worth it - and if you have any warning light on your dash, like check engine light they'll go off too after you disconnect and reconnect the battery.) The starter and solenoid are located on the driver side of the car engine. They are piggybacked next to each other in one unit. 2nd - you need to disconnect the transmission dip stick to move it out of your way to get the starter out. (You'll need a 12mm. socket with socket wrench) The bolt is located at the top of the dip stick that is attached to the engine. Feel free to pull the dip stick all the way out and put it in a safe place. You don't actually need to take the outside shell of the dip stick out all the way just pull it out about 4 inches and move it to the right or left, it's attached at the bottom by a rubber wire holding clamp. Just move it aside for now. 3rd - Disconnect the lead wires that are going to the starter, there are two - one is a black push connector that you must push the center button in to remove the wire connector as you pull the wire out, and the other is under the rubber black boot that is the power connection that is coming from your battery. Pull back the black rubber boot and expose the 12 mm. nut that must be removed to get the cable off the starter. You'll need a 12mm. socket and wrench to get this nut off. Once you remove the cable put the 12mm. nut back on the starter so it doen't get lost. 4th - Crawl under your vehicle and take your 14 mm. socket, socket wrench and swivel adapter with you with (2) Extra Long 12" inch extentions, you'll need the extra lengths to get the bolts to turn and free your rachet up to swing and loosen the 14mm. bolt heads. Don't take the bolts out all the way, leave them in housing as long as the starter is able to come out. The only reason I say this is because the starter will be easier to re-install once your done fixing it. Now, take your starter out from the bottom, it's a little tight but it will come out. 5th - Put your starter on a work bench or preferably a Vice to hold the starter in place so it won't fall. Locate the (3) 9/32" inch cover nuts and remove them with a 9/32" inch nut runner or socket. Take care not to lose the nuts. Remove the top cover of the solenoid. Once you remove the top cover you'll see the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid. Remove the center copper solenoid, be careful because at the bottom of the solenoid is a pointed tip with a long 3" spring that actually pushed the started gear out once powered on with your ignition key. Put this center solenoid off to the side with the 3" Spring. Now locate the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid housing (these are the contacts that need to be replaced.. these are the parts that are causing all your problems with your starter - all for $5 Bucks, notice how black and pitted the copper contacts are). At this point this is where I actually took my whole starter to a Alternator/Starter Rebuildng Shop in a plastic bag with the solenoid cover off and showed them the starter and contacts and they had them in stock. (The 2 Copper Contacts) were tiny copper 90 degree clips with a 1/4 Moon Shape to them, no larger than 1 1/2"inches and no bigger than a quarter. Once I got the Copper Contacts back home the fun started! I can't believe how little they were and how easy they were going to be replaced for just $5. Five bucks. This was going to save me a ton of money. Now this is where you'll need to take the (2) nuts off the one side of the solenoid, one nut (12 mm.) is where we originally removed the cable wire from the battery and there is another nut that holds the copper contact into place. I think this is a 15mm. socket (but don't quote me on this one - sorry I forgot what size it was), but remove this nut also, this is the last nut holding the copper contact into place. Once you remove the nut you'll be able to slide the copper contact out, but be careful not to lose the thin washer and small rubber O-Ring attached to the Copper Contact Post. One side of the contact is a Rectangular Copper Square attached to a Copper Post the Copper Contact actually slides over the post for mounting purposes. Take note how the contact is positioned because you'll have to re-install the NEW Copper Contact the same way. You can remove the contact now. Make sure you note what Copper Contact goes where, one is larger than the other. Replace the contact with the same NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Now on the opposite side, slide back the rubber boot that is covering the other contact post bolt and nuts. Be careful because their is another small washer and "O-Ring" on the other side too. Take care to remove the Copper Contacts the same way and install the other NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Re-assemble the Nuts in the same manner and tighten. Slide the boot cover back over the post and re-assemble putting the center solenoid back inside the housing, re-install the cover of the solenoid. Your starter solenoid is now complete. Re-assemble everything is reverse order and now your done. Hope this helps the Do-It-Yourself Guys. Any questions, feel free to comment me back. Hope I didn't miss anything.... Blaise
  13. The same thing happened to me when I updated from 2.1 Version to 8.0. I still to this day have sporatic problems with entering the addresses for destinations, When this first happened to me I did the same thing but I took my air compressor to the back of the trunk and opened the DVD player and blew compressed air into the player and that seemed to work. You might want to try that, it might have dust particles in between the head and sensor. If that doesn't work you may need a new DVD Unit. Good Luck.
  14. Got mine on ebay too...Cost me $55. Put them on in less than 2 Minutes Flat! Trunk Opens perfectly now. I used to have my California Dust Wand holding it up no more !!!!!!! 2002 SC - 430
  15. Patrick, This has happened to me also, usually when pulling out of the garage and turning sharply out of the driveway usually when I put in in drive and turn hard left with the steering wheel. I don't know if its a shift of a front end bushing or the tire(s) it self being low on air but the tire sensor monitor wasn't on so this had me wonding also. I am actually in the process of changing my runflats in for conventional tires. I don't know what goes on but It hasn't happened in a while?? Regards, Blaise
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